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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • Nothing stays on when the keys are taken out and everything is turned off. The only problem I am having is pretty much the fact that the headlamps will not turn on when I switch them on inside the car. I know for a fact that the bulbs are not burnt out, as they were working for a couple minutes. I would like some info on how to do that battery test. That would be awesome if you could post that on here. I was also wondering, when you put water in your battery does it absolutely have to be distilled water? I read in the owners manual but I could not really figure it out.
  • Have just under 400 miles on my 2008 Explorer with the V8. When the car is in park and idling it makes a "popping" noise roughly every 18 seconds. It is audible inside the car with all the windows closed and very audible when the hood is open. Is this just some pump or something that wakes up every 18 seconds no matter what or does this sound like an issue with the engine?
  • OK, here is the general procedure for the parasitic current draw test, this will apply to any car that uses a 12 volt lead acid battery system.
    You need to find what is draining your battery by checking "PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW" from your battery. Your car has ELECTRONIC MODULES that draw current when they are first connected. After they "settle down", usually in about 2 to 5 minutes, the parasitic current drain on you battery should be down to about 25 ma (milliamps) (.025 Amp). Do the following test procedure, and if you find your draw is too high, pull fuses one at a time to see if you can isolate the source of the excessive current draw. If your Parasitic Current Draw is still high after pulling all fuses, try disconnecting the Alternator, and other electrical equipment until the source of the excessive current draw is found.
    PARASITIC CURRENT DRAW TEST:
    Start with a fully charged Battery. Turn everything in the car OFF, close the door, remove the light bulb from under the hood, glove compartment, trunk, etc, so that nothing you know of is on. Remove the negative cable. Place a 5 amp fuse & a 1 ohm/10watt resistor in series with the negative cable, then wait a few minutes to allow the modules to settle down, then proceed. Connect a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter across the resistor and do a simple voltage drop test. Results = for example, a .022v draw = a 22mA draw. When you have minimal computers/radios/etc a maximum of 25mA is optimal. If you have multiple computers/cell phones/alarms/etc expect a higher number to be normal, though the cell phones/alarms should be OFF for this test. Over 30ma should be investigated and over 50ma should be corrected. Check manufacturers specs to be sure of what it should be for your particular vehicle.
    For your headlight problem, you will need a wiring diagram to figure that out.
    About the distilled water, yes, you should always add only distilled water to the battery. This also applies to the radiator, if you premix the antifreeze with water, use only distilled water. I always keep at least 6 gallons of distilled water in my garage.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. In Sunny Florida">
  • I am guessing that it is most likely the Air Conditioning clutch making the sound. This sound may be normal, as sometimes they can be heard in the car. Most people don't notice it because they have the radio on. Open the hood and see if you can tell where the sound is coming from. Your car is way too new to be asking here, take it to the dealer and have it checked, it just may need to be tightened down to quiet it down. They are not really adjustable, but it may be loose.
    Good Luck,
    E,D. ISF
  • kanjikanji Posts: 1
    I heard a noise coming from left rear wheel nothing major just some squeaking. I brought it in to have looked at, and was told I needed new emergency brakes pads plus rotor... I just had new brakes with rotors done 7k miles ago.

    Also the Price they gave was close to 600....

    Can anyone clear this up for a non mechanic?
  • I would take it back to whoever did the brake work 7K ago, and have them make it right. They apparantly did something wrong on the left side. Did you have the right side looked at also, and how did it look?
    It sounds like it may be a case of faulty workmanship. The rear parking brakes are usually seldom used and really don't usually incure any wear, unless someone drives around with his parking brake applied, or if something is causing them to stick or not release properly. Take it back to the first guy and have him explain why the new brakes that HE put on 7K ago are tore up, and ask him to make it right.
  • What was the wrong? I have a 1998 AWD Eddie Bauer Explorer. I get the vibration after I coast then hit the accerlator. It feels like I running over rubbling strips briefly. It's tough to recreate it on purpose, but i narrowed it down to driving over 45 and the severe vibration occurs over 60. I havent taken it to the dealer for repair yet.

    Thanks
    Mike
  • How many miles on it now? What engine and what transmission? Do you keep up on all scheduled maintenance? When is the last time that you have the transmission fluid flushed and changed?
    It sounds like you may have a hydraulic clutch chatter when changing gears, try to see if you can tell when it does it. It may be the 4th gear clutch or the Torque Converter Lock Up Clutch. If it is not too bad, flushing and changing the transmission fluid will make probably it go away. You need to be sure you do the transmision flushes and changes every 30,000 by the book. 30K, 60K, 90K, 120K, 150K, 180K, 210K, etc.
    I change my trans fluid every 30k, and about 10K before I'm due for the next flush, I sometimes notice a slight clutch chatter when my torque converter lock up clutch engages. After I do the flush, it is always smooth and quite again. I've got a 2000 XLT 5.0L V8 Auto 148K miles.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • I have 130K. It is the V8 Auto w/overdrive. Yes, I alway take it to the Ford dealer for schedule maintenace. I think they flushed/changed the transmission fluid at 100K.

    Thanks
  • I have a 92 Explorer XLT in which I just mostly replaced the radiator today. I say mostly because the lower transmission cooler line threads won't bite in the connector like they're supposed to. I can't get both hands into the space, and I can't get at it from any other angle. Has anyone else had this problem? How can I get this done?
  • This rumbling sound,does it just last about a second or two at the most?
  • You need to hold it straight and turn it to the right. The threads might have crossed, check them close.
  • I came back from a 5 hour trip to PA and my heat stopped working. The blower is working, but no heat comes from it. I had a flush and fill done, still no heat. Help!
  • What Engine? How many miles?

    Check for hot water flow through the heater core. With the heater turned on, feel the heater hoses where they enter the fire wall. Are they hot or cold? If not hot, there is not hot water flow. Check the hot water valve to see if it is working. Yours may by operated by a small vacuum line, it could be loose, fell off, leaking or broken. Some heater valves work by a cable. If you can get the heater valve to open, the hot coolant should flow through the heater core. If you know the heater valve is open, you might have a clog in the heater core. Then take the Heater valve off the hoses and check to be sure it's open, blow water from a hose through it. Take the heater hoses off there they go through the fiewall to the heater core, and try to blow water through the heater core with a water hose, in both directions. If everything is open, it should work when connected back and coolant filled properly and heater turned on, unless for some reason the coolant is not coming out of the engine or their is some kind of coolant air bubble or air lock. Bleed all air out of the cooling system.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • I have a 2000 Explorer XLT with power mirrors. Switch won't move mirrors to the right or up on both the left and right mirror, so it sounds like the switch to me, but before I replace it, I wanted to see if anyone else has seen this problem and fixed it. I removed the switch and tried to troubleshoot, but without a schematic, I don't know how to test...it has 8 contacts, one which is not used and another which has a double connection.
  • This is a common problem, the power mirror switch goes bad. I had to replace them on 3 of my Explorers. Chances are very good that if you replace the Power Mirror Switch, that it will work again. They were about $30 to $35 last time I bought one.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • My 02-Mountaineer has 120k miles and my O/D light started flashing rapidly like about 6 months ago and since then I've had my transmission oil serviced and just this week my spark pluggs changed but the light is still flshing rapidly non-stop. It starts flashing rapidly like 4 minutes after I start my car and everything seems normal when I drive it.
  • The flashing OD light means there is a problem in the transmission. You need to get it scanned, get the codes read to see where the problem is.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    2002 Explorer. The 4WD & 4WD Low lights flash 3 times about every 5 minutes or so. It may be doing it more often when it is cold. 4WD & 4WD Low still engage. Any ideas? Thanks...
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I think that message is trying to tell you that there is a fault in the shift motor or in one of the engagement hub mechanisms in one of the front wheels. You should have it checked, although permanent damage won't result most likely. At this point, your shift motor is about due to go on your rig. It's about a $400 repair.
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