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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,010
    I think your owner's manual (link) says to change the oil at 5,000 miles or 180 days, so your plan is sound. There's some other recommended checks at six months.

    But, if it were me, I'd wait 12 months before changing the oil. :shades:

    Dealers make a lot of money on service visits, so beware of upsells you may not need.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jwilli03jwilli03 Posts: 1
    I just recently got a 97 ford explorer and the check engine light is on i took for a diagnostic test and the machine read P406 Evap System. Is this a bad thing. Can someone explain this to me
  • mark24vmark24v Posts: 3
    Thanks for that will try that over the weekend.
  • Thanks so much. I was a little upset when my dealer told me to pay $170 min each of maintenance.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Go to a shop (like Auto Zone, or independent, or dealer) and have them scan the code. IT'll tell you what's broken. May not be that bad.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    RTFM. The Owner's manual has scheduled maintenance for at least 100,000 miles, and I think up to 150,000. Read it, follow it. It's the best you can do. If you don't have the owner's manual, you can buy them in many places - ebay for one.
  • andy_andy_ Posts: 3
    just bought a 2001 limited and the aircon and the indicators are not working
    they did but my chick played with something, i had racv come look at it, they couldnt explain it, im getting it looked at tomorrow if you have any ideas give us a holla
  • mark24vmark24v Posts: 3
    Hi just to let you know put new thermostat and had the coolant change and its done the trick running great now thanks for your help. Mark
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    rotate the tires every 5-6k. they will last a lot longer. i usually do oil change\tire rotation every 5k. every 15k fuel filter too. that is just what i do.
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Posts: 5
    glad it did the trick!
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    My '93 Explorer with 200,000+ miles wont start today. Parked it yesterday, and went outside to move it to wash it, and it just cranked and cranked. Not even a sputter.

    Any ideas?

    The fuel pump is newer so i dont see why that would go out so soon.
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Posts: 5
    I have a '92 Explorer with 300k+ miles. About 6 mo. ago same thing happened to me. Check the ground (negative) wire coming off your firewall/wheel-well mounted solenoid to your starter. This is about a #8 ga wire, small in comparision to your battery cables. It may be corroded, broken or have a bad terminal end. In my case it had the insulation worn off on a section directly under the oil pan which had taken some obvious direct hits from road debris, and the subsequent corrosion build-up impeded the voltage needed to start the engine even though the starter spun. It's an easy fix from the hardware store - less than $10 and your back on the road again. Hope this helps.
  • You will need to start by checking the basics:
    Do you have ignition to the spark plugs? Pull off a spark plug wire and check to see if you have good spark.
    If you have good spark at all the plugs, then the next thing to check is fuel pressure. Check to see if you have fuel pressure on the fuel rail. There should be a valve on it like a tire valve, if you remove the cap and depress the core slightly, fuel should shoot out into your shop towel. Be careful to not start a fire when checking this. If you think the fuel pressure may be low, you can check it with a fuel pressure guage, the fuel pressure should read about 35 to 45 lbs with key on, engine off, and 30 to 35 lbs with engine idling.
    If you have spark and fuel in the rail. it may be possible that the computer shut of the fuel injectors, I have seen some security systems do this, they will usually display some type of security warning light on the dash if this happens.
    Let us know what you find.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Have you resolved this issue? My '97 is doing the same thing and the Circuit City people think it is the head unit as well. I have read elsewhere that sometimes the amp can cause this issue to happen too.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    Thanks for the input, but there's no need. Fired right up today on the first crank!

    Sometimes I hate electronics...
  • Lucky You!
    It sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere.
    If it didn't start before, it may not start again at some point in time.
    Check your wiring and connectors to be sure all the connections are clean and tight.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Follow-up. I pulled the trim in the right rear of the vehicle to get to the amp. Wiring at the connector was a little loose. Pushed connector back tight into the amp and now all speakers are working correctly. I hope this has resolved the issue for me, and I hope this helps others.
  • chandykchandyk Posts: 17
    good to hear you fixed yours. Mine is still not working. I'll take it to my mechanic and see if he can do the same thing you did.

    Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You're obviously one of those people who think their car should never break, ever. I'm sorry your transmission failed - wonder what the transmission warranty is on the Honda Pilot? The Honda is probably a better machine - but lacks a lot against the Explorer in strength, features, quietness and luxury.

    Personally, I hate the Ford 6 speed transmission that is in the current Explorer. I've been fighting to make one work right in two of them, an 06 and an 07. But - other than that, the trucks are awesome. And I realize that they're machines, and stuff breaks on all of them.

    The Pilot may be indeed better overall - but I just don't like the feel of them. They're such a tall Accord. Anyway, that's how I feel.
  • wuppawuppa Posts: 1
    I have 2004 Ford Explorer XLT. Toward the end of year 2007 my gear shift level just broke off, but I am driving around the car without any problems. It might be inconvenient for some, but basically what you have to do is have a mechanic pull off the covering on the steering column, and remove the broken gear shift level. You can then manually push forward and pull backward on the level on the right side of the steering column with your thumb and index finger. I don't find it that hard, but beats not being able to drive at all. I was told that there is no replaceable parts on the steering column except the gear shift level. In regard to not being able to pull out the keys, there is little metal piece that you can lightly depress with your finger and you should be able to pull the key out. Hope this helps for anyone frustrated with it.
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