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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • I have only had that problem with 1 door,With you it sounds like the solanoid that controls the the doors is either getting stuck or at least 1 of them is and not allowing the rest of the doors to lock/unlock your next proplem is locating the unit that controls the doors,Maybe some of the other Guys here might have a better answer,Regards Gerry
  • tuckerootuckeroo Posts: 1
    There is a plastic clips that hold the rod in place to lock and unlock your doors. they wear out,or break letting the rod have too much play to push or pull lock mechism. pull door panel and you'll find the problem. will have to plug switch back in so you can push it to see the problem.
  • Sounds like you have an intake manifold leak. If you have the V6, it could be the intake o-rings, a common problem.
  • Bad Dimmer Module
  • Your bad steering column issue is an old issue on this forum. It has happened to several people before. Do a search in this forum and you will find the posts about it and what to do about it. I seem to remember that they had to replace the entire steering column, and the part number was given.
  • bneinerbneiner Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 explorer, 8 cylinder, awd. Recently it started sputtering, backfiring and bogging down during exceleration. My check enging light is on and I get a code P0442 wich is the evap system. this code came up a few months ago but car just started running like this 2 weeks agos. Could a leak here be causing this or do I have another problem ??
  • The P0442 light starts as a small vacuum leak in the EVAP control system, usually caused by a loose gas cap or a small leak in a hose in the system, and does not usally cause any drivability problem.
    However, the problem CAN get BIGGER, and that is what happened to my 2000 V8 XLT in August 2006. My Explorer ran so bad the engine would not stay running unless I gave it the gas, and this came on suddenly. I could HEAR a vacuum sound when standing beside the vehicle, it came from near the left front wheel. Do you hear any kind of sound like a vaccum leak? Listen in front of the left front wheel, under the battery. My problem turned out to be a leaking Vacuum Purge Valve, located under the battery, with 2 large vacuum hoses, 1 small vacuum hose, and a 2 wire electrical connector connected to it. It seems that some corrosion or battery acid leaked down on it and ate part of the plastic away at the place where one of the large hoses connected to it, and created a small hole in it. I could hear the sound but not see it. To get to it, I had to remove the left front wheel, loosen the plastic inner fender cover and pull the front of it down so I could see the valve. I still could not see the problem, but I could hear the vacuum leak. I removed the 2 screws that held it on, and I found the hole on the backside. I took the vlave off and used epoxy glue to fix it, cured it with a heat lamp, and put it back on, No Leak!
    So maybe that could be your problem. If not, it might help someone else.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • eckace1eckace1 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 explorer manual trans. I have no powersteering at idle but when I throttle up to above 2k rpm powersteering works fine. Is my problem the power steerng pump or the gearbox? Or is it somthing else? ThanksRobert
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Well, first, check the belt and see that it's properly tight. If it is, then check your fluid level and see it is full. If so, then your problem is the pump is getting old and losing efficiency at low revloutions. A rebuild or replacement of the pump should fix it. The rack rarely fails in these cars.
  • baby_ebaby_e Posts: 1
  • aahz1969aahz1969 Posts: 1
    This sounds to me to be an Ignition control module problem. If you have replaced all the other components and are still experiencing the same symptoms then check to see if you have spark the next time it does this. If it does not then replace the control module.This unit works in series with your distributor to control your firing order as well as other key components of the ignition. I have had the same thing happen to me on other types of vehicles an this was the problem. Either that or it is the ignition coil or distributor pick up coils. Check to be sure that you have good connections there.
  • cverne22cverne22 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my explorer and i was wondering what you had to have done to get it fixed.
  • kerrydaykerryday Posts: 1
    I have this same problem with my 2003 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Did you ever get any help with this? Any help you could send my way would be very much appreciated.
  • kelmokelmo Posts: 1
    HELP my cd player has quit working----I believe it may be the homemade cd and label that is the problem-----but I can't get any cds to come out??? it will only say cd error----ugh!!!!! its a factory stereo and 04 explorer eddie bauerer!!!!

  • ddlong131ddlong131 Posts: 2
    Battery in 97 Explorer 5L AWD was near end of life, usually had to jump start it if left unused more than 48 hrs. I got it started and drove a few miles when things started shutting down, battery gauge dropped and battery light came on. Engine died shortly. Friendly motorist offered a jump, wouldn't start. Discovered cables were reversed, tried again, still wouldn't start. Towed home, replaced battery. Now car starts but battery gauge still low and battery light still on.
    Questions are: 1) once running, shouldn't engine be self-sustaining despite condition of battery? and 2) what was likely damaged due to reversed jumper cables?
    Should my next step be to replace the alternator, or are there other easier and less expensive things to check first?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    IF the alternator is ok, yes, the car should run the same regardless of battery condition. IF the alternator is dying, or damaged due to reverse connections, which is VERY hard on every microprocessor in the car - the car will fail with a bad battery. I would change the alternator and the regulator out, as well as the battery.
  • Gentlemen,I have a 1998 Ford Explorer,2by4,6 cylinder 4.0, An ac tech says their is no compressor problems,he cant find any leaks,but after charging the system,4 days later it blows hot air,then maybee go cold for a little while,then back to hot air,any repair solutions? thank you
  • Go find a better tech.
    I could go into long explainations about what it might be, but what is really needed is a good professional diagnosis, I would need information such as high and low pressure readings at idle and at 1500 rpm, vent temps under varying conditions, and temperatures of the lines at various points, and is the compressor staying on or kicking on and off. Without being there and touching and feeling it, I would need a lot of information that you probably can't provide over the internet. It is best for you to take it to a pro that knows what he is doing.
  • truth2229truth2229 Posts: 1
    Are you braking when turning? If so the problem could have to do with the master cylinder and the brake booster module (leaking seals and O-rings) this problem is common on other large SUV'S like the Tahoe and Yukon. If I were you I would take it to a reputable repair shop and get them to put it on a lift and check the CV joints and tie rod ends and look for suspension play. It is normal to here a little clunk when your steering wheel is completely turned to the left or right and you don't have to be moving to here that, But if you are hearing the clunk with out moving the steering it could just be your tranny try driving your vehicle up to 60kmph or 30mph and start braking if you hear a loud clunk every time you brake and your tranny shifts out of driving gear your problem is probably your transmission it just may need to be serviced like bands adjusted and so forth or could be a sign that its on its way out. I hope this helps
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I agree with you, ED, it also sounds like an expansion valve problem too, don't you think? Could be?
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