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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • im not saying 94s are bad, i said of the research ive done ive found that the 94 usually gives no warning of a transmission failure. it just stops working
  • mshillmshill Posts: 3
    In neutral engine idles well and responds well when accelerator is depressed. Engaged in any gear, engine idles well, but will die when accelerator is depressed. This started suddenly at a traffic signal; there was no prior warning indicating a problem.

    Trouble code P1451 is displayed in scanner (EVAP control system vent control valve circuit malfunction). It was suggested that the cause could be a vacuum leak, but none has been located. Too, the "operational data" from the scanner says, "Fuel System 1, Open Loop (det)." The manual for the scanner says this should be a "closed loop" situation.

    Does anyone have any ideas about possible causes that I can address, before surrendering and taking this beast to a shop?

    Thanks,
    mike hill
  • I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer. I am having a big problem with the car alarm. When you lock your car the alarm will start going off about an hour later, even if there is no one at it. at first it just went off once in a while and now it goes off at least 3 times a day if not more. How do I fix it?
  • sacowboysacowboy Posts: 2
    Does anyone out there really have any clue as to why Explorer's so often have erratic idle, starting and engine dying (for no apparent reason) problems? It seems to me that there must be some "VERY GIFTED FORD MECHANIC" out there who could offer some solid advice on the root cause for most of these issues. I've never read of or talked to anyone who ever eliminated or even helped the problem by changing the Idle Air Control Valve, or any of the other most often mentioned replacement parts to solve the issue including myself. I'm only now learning about the magical VZV valve and Fuel Cell Cannister inside the gas tank. Could this be a common cause to the Explorer's erratic idle and dying engine problems? If you fixed your erratic idle/engine dying problem, please let me know what you did.......
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I have had 7 Mountaineer/Explorers, one of which I drove 140,000 miles, and have never had this problem. Not once. I have to deduce from that it is not common and in isolation, would be hard to diagnose here. Or, in other words, I have no clue..... :confuse:
  • got the a/c problem taken care of, it was a round sphere vacuum under the air intake. one of the two lines running into it was broken and i never saw it hidden under everything, also i have fixed(for now) my irradic idle. i took it down and had fuel injector cleaner ran through. ive never seen any car pour out that much smoke and i can feel the improvement in driving. i recomend trying that to at least help with the idle problems its cheap to do and interesting to watch
  • Hopin someone can answer this. My dad's 95 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer is having a problem with the blower. The blower runs regardless if the car is on or off. He pulled the relay hoping to fix the problem and it continues to blow. He is stumped, any ideas on what the problem could be?
  • Shorted Blower Resistor or Shorted Blower Switch
  • HEY HOWS IT GOING I HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS WHEN I BOUGHT MY 99 SOHC 4.0 I TOOK IT TO A FEW DIFF MECH. I REPLACED THE (IAC)( FUEL FILTER ) HAD A DIONOSTICS RAN TWICE THEN I SAID HELL WITH IT AND TOOK IT TO THE DEALER IT ENDED UP BEING THE INTAKE GASKETS WERE SUCKING AIR MY IDLE WAS MOVING UP AND DOWN AND DIEING OUT ON ME THE PARTS WERE 30 DOLLERS COST 220 DOLLER LABOR SO HAVE DEALER CHECK FIR THAT
  • i had to use a screwdriver on my new solenoid to start it. i just bought the explorer and the old solenoid looked new too. i was wondering if maybe some wires are crossed or something or anything else??
  • Hi movieguns,

    I was searching for this problem on the web and came across this posting. I am having the same problem and am wondering if you ever were able to determine the problem.

    Thanks.
  • dlw4dlw4 Posts: 2
    I had exactly the same problem with my '99 Explorer. This is very common on the Explorers from that era. The wire bundle that runs into the front of the drivers door has a lot of wires in it and they must bend very sharply every time you open & close the door. Your can take the rubber boot loose that covers the wires and you will likely find the power wire for the windows is broken. I just put a splicer on mine and it's been fine for over a year now.
  • 2005 Explorer with 105,000. MEssage center flashes "Check Charging System" with a tone and the battery icon lights for just a second. Started doing this once every couple of days, then every day and now multitimes when I drive it. Started during acceleration over 3000 RPM and now any thing over 2000 RPM just cruising on flat highway. The lights don't dim, the volt meter does not drop and the A/C seems to function fine. Alternator going bad or Battery?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,447
    went in for 85k oil change/tire rotation. they told me it need both rear wheel bearings replaced. how do i tell? i haven't noticed any noises other than sometimes the read axle whines at times. i think it was just a slow day for the mechanics.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's your alternator, I would change it quickly.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    few months ago i had a tire that lost air, i pumped nit up was good for a couple of days and lost air again. brought it to where i purchased the tires, they found nothing wrong, replaced the stem and all was well until now, about 7 months later.

    they tell me the rim is rusting form the inside out. its a 2002 with the optional chrome wheels. they said i would need to find someone who can recoat the inside of the wheel. ive never needed to do something like this. any help would be appreciated.
  • I had the same problem a few years ago with a explorer,So had a tyre fitter remove the lyres,then i just wire or steel wooled the inside of the rims,you can do it with a sanding disc,once you clear all the rust out and i dont think you will find a lot i just spray painted the inside edges of the rims and to make sure when the tyres where refitted at the garage i had some tubes fitted,Never had a problem since and the Guy i sold it to has never had a problem either,This is something you can do yourself over a weekend.Regards Gerry
  • I have a 99 with the 5.0 L engine, 89K miles. Trans has been serviced and problem free. The last 10K I've noticed a slight "slip" when in OD and accelerating between ~ 40 to 55 mph, just below what is required to downshift. Anyone have this problem or ideas on cause? I'm thinking I'll just keep it out of OD unless I'm on the highway. Is this a sign of a major problem?
    I bought this truck new, and overall the truck has been very reliable, but I'm wondering if it is time to sell it.
  • I have a coolant leak and it looks like it is coming out of the oil pan - Is that possible ? Somebody hinted to me that Ford may recirculate the coolant near the oil to help cool the engine. The hoses are all fine and the top of the engine is dry.

    Also - If the oil pan can be removed easily or does the transfer case need to be removed as well ?
  • Hi there,If you had coolant coming out of the oil pan then you would have a head gasket gone,But as you are driving the ford then 1 question comes to mind?have you been driving the ford with the aircon on max as some times ice will form on the pipe work and then melt and leave a pool on the floor,If it is not this then somewhere you have a hose or possibly a steel pipe that has a hole,Only way to find that would be to get the Ford onto a lift and really look for it,sorry i cant be of more help,Regards Gerry
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