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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If it hasn't been serviced with a power flush in the last 10,000 miles, I would have it done. IF that doesn't fix the problem, your strategy may be good. There is probably some wear going on, but it doesn't mean you're toast yet. It may run a long time like this if you are careful with it.
  • Easy solution for tire rims leaks:

    I have been doing the following proceedure to all my vehicles, all brands with all type tires for many years. I have never had a problem with slow leaks/rim leaks again.

    You need to do this with an air compressor and tire filling hose or near an air pump. It is best to roll the vehicle so that the tire valve stem is located at about the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. This will allow you good working room for the proceedure.
    One tire at a time, SLOWLY & CAREFULLY remove the tire valve stem core with a valve stem core removal tool (cheap). HOLD ONTO the valve core very carefully so that it doesn't blow away, keep it in your hand, and let all the air come out of the tire. Then take a Large can of WD-40 spray oil or similar substance with the red plastic "straw" on it, stick the straw down about 2 inches down into the valve stem, HOLD the "straw" tightly so it doesn't fall down into the inside of the tire, and holding the WD-40 can upright, spray oil into the inside of the tire for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then remove the "straw" and reinsert the valve core firmly, and refill the tire with air to the correct tire pressure. Do this to all tires, then take it for a short drive to spread the film of oil around inside the tires and rims. This has worked perfect for me for at least 15 years, has had NO detrimental effect on the tires or rims, and the tire balance remains the same and the tires ride smooth. When new tires are put on, the "fresh" rubber usually seals very good, but as time goes by the rubber starts to harden and the rim can start to rust under the rubber and cause seepage. The oil will prevent the rust and form a perfect seal. I would usually do this when the tires are about halfway through their life and/or when I have to add air to the tires between oil changes (7,500 mile intervals). The tire pressure should drop no more that 4 pounds during this 7,500 mile interval, from 32 psi down to 28 psi. If it drops more than that, I add the spray oil to the tires, end of problem.
    Hope this helps.
    E.D. ISF
  • was leaving work engine started and wan fine and performed well. about 15 miles later at a red light went to accelerate and had little performance. engine and truck immediatly became very shaky and hesitant sometimes engine dies. took to autozone ran codes and came out with misfire in cylinder # 2 and # 3. also fuel pressure low on bank 1 and 2. catylist defishency. replaced all spark plugs and wires everything gapped at .55 ive ruled out the coil pack because coil is the spark waste system and 2 and 3 dont run together. my next move was to have the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter replaced. any additional advice would be apreciated truck is a 1996 with 4.0 pushrod engine. personally im suspecting dirty fuel because i live in houston and ike just came through so maybe picked up some bad gas getting some trash in the injectors?
  • Don't rule out the solenoid pack in the transmission. You can read my plea for help, post 6102. I also live in Houston, but it wasn't bad gas. In my case the car is throwing about 15 codes. I was originally told the transmission codes were the result of whatever else was wrong. The problem has now been identified as the shift solenoid (stuck in 3rd gear), but there are 4 solenoids in the transmission, and they all must be changed. The transmission problem is what is causing all the other codes. I hate that car.
  • turns out the wires to the coil pack were frayed and were shorting out thus throwing the codes. fuel injectors were fine but had them cleaned anyways. new fuel filter and went to a junkyard and gotta coil pack for $45 and included with it was an extra sensor pkug wires and clips with heat sheilds and the main bracket( didnt need any of it but what the hell) the only code its running now is an o2 sensor. also bought an obdII off ebay for $50. milade is back up to 17.7 and i feel for u with the transmission. i am on my 3rd. if u wanna rebuilt one for a reasonable price call greenleaf. they can find u one for about 800 and that comes with a 6 month warrenty. i can also recomend a good trans mechanic. he will install it for 250 and if it doesnt work he will either fix the trans or have another put in from greenleaf free of charge. i recomend him because if it has electrical problems (soloniods) he will get it working. my new one had problems in #2 soloniod it was extremely sluggish . im on month 6 without a compliant
  • prubboprubbo Posts: 1
    My shift broke off too. When you installed your original steering wheel on the 5L2Z-3C529-A, did it fit correctly? Was there enough length on the splined shaft to mount the steering wheel correctly?

    I received a used steering column from the junk yard. Everything looked the same as the original except the shaft only protruded out 1/4" while my original column's shaft protruded 3/4". There was not enough lenght on the shaft to mount the steering wheel. :mad:
  • Hi prubbo, paul7281 here.
    My original steering column-part number was 4L2Z-3C529-DA, I replaced it with this part 5L2Z-3C529-A, and it was new from Ford out of the box. I don't know how much shaft protruded out of the column, but my original steering wheel did fit correctly. prubbo, you did not pull the steering column your self?? Do you know if it's out of a 2002-2004 Ford Explorer or Ford Mountaineer?? Did you see this part number 5L2Z-3C529-A, on the steering column or just on the junk yard invoice?? There is something suspect about the steering column you received. If you have a 2002 Ford Explorer this 5L2Z-3C529-A, steering column and your original steering wheel should fit! Go to your local ford parts dealer with the steering column and steering wheel and ask ford's part dealer why it will not fit? paul...
  • dlw4dlw4 Posts: 2
    Since winter is about upon us, the rear window defogger on my '99 Explorer has decided not to work. No light on the little switch when you push it, so I assume it's not working. Is there a fuse for this thing? My Chilton's book doesn't even mention the rear defogger, so not much help. Anyone?
  • Paul7281...Fordsrus2 here...
    Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
  • Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from steering column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
  • I live in a cold winter climate. Owned since new 2002, last four years engine temperature indicates high, but not very good heat. When I bring it to the dealer he puts in the garage and checked the heater exit temperature and said it's OK. I can't go through another winter in it.

    I think the fan doesn't blow enough. Fan speed one is "barely anything", speed two "kinda something", speed three "barely something", speed four "blows, makes a lot of noise, some heat".

    Is there a heavy duty fan available?

    Thanks!
  • hey lovelylu42 did u get ur problem fix i am having the same problem i have a 99 explorer an having the same problem did the same thing with the fuel pump also my injectors not opening.
  • The fan switch itself may be your problem, as it controls the level of the fan speed. Regardless, it seems that it would have to be one of the two, fan speed swt or fan motor. However, I would think it's more likely the fan swt itself. I had an Explorer that had similar symptons and the fan swt itself turned out to be the problem. Again this is the actual swt that you are turning to set your fan speed. In reference to the noise that you hear at the highest setting, there may be something that's getting into your fan blades causing this, as I know leaves are sometime bad about working their way into the fan blades. Hope this reply helps, as it may at least give you a couple of things to consider....
  • jezimajezima Posts: 1
    I have an 05 explorer XLT with 35K miles and on Saturday I noticed that when I go to turn right or left at a low speed, there will be this grinding sound and shimmy in my rear end..What is it? And will this be an ongoing problem once it's fixed..should I just trade it in
  • I have a 2004 Ford Explorer with 23,000 miles. Anytime I get it over 55mph, there is a whistling noise while I am pressing the accelerator. Take my foot off the accelerator and it stops. We can't seem to figure out where it is coming from. Can anyone help!?
  • Will transmission fluid being sucked into the manifold cause the engine to surge and create a knocking sound in the intake manifold?
    Also, I have a '94 explorer and it's been surging. I was told by the good people at Auto Zone that it was my EGR valve, which I've replaced and still have the problem.
  • I am having trouble with the driver's side door lock control that is mounted on the door. The rocker control will not lock or unlock the doors unless the engine is running. Key FOB and door key pad work fine anytime. Also, the puddle lamp on the driver's side no longer works (bulb is fine). The key warning chime continually sounds when the vehicle ignition is off, all doors are closed, and the key is still in the ignition slot. Any ideas? Are all these related?
  • I recently changed all 4 brakes and resurfaced rotors at the Ford dealer in Livermore CA. After I pick the Explorer, ABS light comes on after driving for a few minutes and now the Cruise does not work also. I took it back the next business day to the Livermore dealer and told it will cost me $180.00 for some electrical switch that goes on the master cylinder. computer code: C1440 -- Pressure difference - Transducer Circuit failure.

    I never had any problem in my car related to ABS or Cruise Control and dealer says it not their fault... its a coincidence... I can't seem to buy that. Does anybody know which part is this and if I can replace it myself...Ford Part #. and or image??
  • My truck is a standard I stalled out and could not start. If i bypass wires on the solenoid i can get it to start. Someone said it could be the neutral safety switch. Is there anyway i can get a diagram or find someway to locate where the problem might be. i thank you very much for any help possible
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    2002 explorer.

    when it was a couple years old i noticed that when cold the driver side windshield wiper didn't seem to work well.
    took it to the dealer they replaced the wiper blade. helped a bit.

    now i notice if i pull in on the base of the washer arm, the whole units moves - i think this is why it doesnt wipe well (passenger side doesnt do this - it is tight).

    does anyone know if there is an easy way to tighten this up... maybe its as easy as tightening a bolt somewhere?

    thanks
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