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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • swburbguyswburbguy Posts: 3
    MY explorer o/d light comes on sometimes. Whats causing this?
  • pfran6078pfran6078 Posts: 2
    can anyone tell me on how to replace the pcv valve on a 2000 explorer 5.0 engine
  • wizard43wizard43 Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 ford explorer,it will start early in the morning run for about 30-40 secs. then dies out and will not run for longer than 3 are 4 secs i changed out the fuel pump and it still does the same thing .ive checked the filter its clear.
  • racheysracheys Posts: 3
    I had the same prob with my 91 ,I bought the gear for the front but the back is not available ...you have to replace the whole motor.After thinking about it for a while I had a great idea , why not get epoxy resin and mix it up and use that to replace plastis that crumbles , well I did, both the back windows now work like new and it saved me $150.00
  • See message #6171 for location of the pcv. You can't see it, but you can feel for it, and pull it out, and replace it by feel.
  • wizard43wizard43 Posts: 2
    pvc valve is good, got a po320 code from scanner, so im thinking maybe the coil pack is bad since it is distributerless
  • You never said what engine you have, is it a V6 or V8? The problem could be caused by several different things.

    From a website:
    A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2.
    A code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
    Faulty spark plug or wire
    Faulty coil (pack)
    Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
    Faulty fuel injector
    Burned exhaust valve
    Faulty catalytic converter(s)
    Running out of fuel
    Poor compression
    Defective computer
    Possible SolutionsIf there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
    If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

    My Comments:
    I would pull all the plugs and take a good look at them, note the color of the innner ceramic insulator and gap. The ceramic insulator should be a light tan color to light brown. Dark colors means that cylinder is not firing well, which could be due to the spark plug wire bad, coil bad, injector bad, clogged or dirty, oil flouling, ect. If you find one or more dark plugs, investigate everything associated with that cylinder, and gap all plugs, replace plugs if needed, replace wires if needed. Also check for air leaks, as an air leak can cause the engine to run rough and die. Check the Air bypass valve located near the throttle body, it has two wires going to it, sometimes they get clogged and stick and let too much air in at idle. Cleaning them will fix them most of the time, otherwise replace.
    Will your engine run OK if you rev it up? If so, it may be an Idle problem realated to an air leak, egr valve, Air bypass valve, etc. It the engine runs rough at idle and rough at speeds over 1500 rpm, it could be an ignition or injector problem.
    E.D.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,452
    it '02 through '05. rear liftgate was redesigned for '06.
  • Hi all! New here. Got a couple things. 2001 Ford Explorer SOHC 4.0 V-6. 55K. Owned 1 1/2 yrs. One minor problem that we can live with (#1), and one that we can't (#2). We love the vehicle...we just don't want to die in it....or kill someone else because of it....

    1) Lift gate won't open & door ajar light on all of the time. Checked the latches (when I still could open it), one is sticking a little but doesn't seem to be causing the problem. Have oiled it and still doesn't help. But I seen something earlier in the forum saying something about a crack under the window?!? Where exactly? What can be done about this?

    2) Stalling. Highway or city. Short trip (15 minutes) or long trip (an hour). Anytime. Last summer it started. Live in Kansas...HOT summers. 90-100 degrees F. Took to 2 shops (one a Ford dealer). No coding out of the check engine light. No one could recreate it, therefore not tell us what is wrong. Got a whole tune-up and replacement of fuel filter, fuel lines & pump checked. All ok. Still did it. Googled stalling problems for Explorers and heard of the IAC valve. Replaced that about end of August 08. This spring it started again. Replaced the IAC again. A few people mentioned vapor lock. So we put "Heet" (water remover for the gas tank) in the tank. Still did it after that. And other sites are saying that it is very rare in a fuel injected car nowadays to get vapor lock...An earlier post said "intake gaskets". Is that a real possibility? How easy to fix yourself? Or is it really a job for ASE Mechanics?

    Thank you!
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Posts: 56
    I have a Check Engine light that comes on and off for months now on my '98 Explorer (V6 SOHC w/ 127k miles).

    It's been off for I guess the past 50 miles. On Saturday I went to get an inspection which includes emmissions and passed. Sure enough it came right back on again the next day.

    Along the way, I went to Autozone a couple of times while the light was actually ON, and it read O2 sensor downstream.

    I don't know what to make of all this. It passed the emmissions test so could it be the Autozone scan thing is baloney?
  • rphelanrphelan Posts: 3
    2003 Explorer bigger V6, 86k miles.

    for a few months now, we've noticed that there's a rattling noise coming from the engine area when we are stopped and in drive. The noise stops when we shift to neutral or park... but resumes when we move the gear back to drive...

    also, something that just developed is severe oversteer (I guess that's the appropriate word). At speeds above 45mph, if we just move the steering wheel a little left or right, it feels like the truck will go out of control.

    it's at the dealer right now ( we have 100k warranty).. but they're saying they're not hearing the rattling noise - i'll have to make sure they do b/c if it's the tranny, they need to replace it.
  • The autozone machine simply reads what your computer says. Your computer is the baloney.
  • #1 - I assume the rattle goes away or lessens as you drive down the road. Does it sound like tin rattling? If so, there is a loose part that is vibrating, most likely a loose heat shield somewhere on the exhaust system. Loose heat shields on the cat converters are common. You can get them spot welded back on at any muffler shop, or you can tightly tie a stiff wire around the part to keep it from rattling (coat hanger wire is good for this, but the welding is a much better and permanent repair).

    #2 - The steering problem sounds dangerous, any front end shop or alignment shop should be able to figure out what the problem is. It could be ball joints, bushings or steering components. You did not mention if it is 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive.
  • dgivhandgivhan Posts: 1
    My ford explorer runs great however the o/d light keeps blinking off and on....it blinks o/d off

    ..
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    For 9.5 years I have been a regular participant in this discussion group. Next week we will be picking up our new Prius and our 99 Explorer will be moving to another family. Thanks for the all the input that made me a better shade tree mechanic for my Explorer. After an initial rocky start the Explorer became a very reliable, family workhorse. It is in great shape so I have no problem selling it to a neighbor. It certainly does not qualify for the new Clunker Program.

    Take care,

    Bioman
  • baudiombaudiom Posts: 1
    trying to pull the rear shock on a rusted 96 explorer. Used a bit pf PB blaster and went at the bottom bolt. The nut sheered off like the bolt was made of butter. Now the bolt turns in place but I cant get it out. Have tried a small jack between the frame and axel to relieve the pressure, Pounding the bolt thru with a smaller bolt and hammer, I cant even get a screwdriver blade under the bolt head to pry it out. what shall I try next??

    Baudiom
  • carein4carein4 Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same issue...did this work for you? thx...
  • grip205grip205 Posts: 1
    I am interested in learning how to take out and replace the passenger side rear window. Please help!
  • We just got an '03 explorer into our shop to scan for ABS codes. It gave us a Speed Sensor code (C1235) and an undocumented code (16945). The undocumented code doesnt show up on any of our databases and I was wondering if anyone else has seen this code before and if they have, what is it for
  • 41man41man Posts: 1
    Hi first post, I have a 94 Expl. with a 4ltr. V6 and just when I go up hill and acceleration slightly my engine light comes on but goes off after I top the hill. If my air cond. is on it makes it worse, stays on longer. On quick accel. it does not do it.
    I would appreciate some help, thanks 41Man
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