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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mysti1031mysti1031 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    Husband's '04 Explorer (Eddie Bauer edition) has been nothing but problems. We have owned the car for 4.5 years, and:

    Had 2 wheels fall off
    Axel bend
    Replaced transmission
    misc other stuff

    The latest....the car stopped working while idling in traffic. Went into "limp home" mode. Wouldn't turn over or do ANYTHING. Towed it to the mechanic who thought that the key dropped code. After trying a second key and not having it work, our local guy said that he thought it was the security system and that the dealership would have to do it. The security light was flashing very fast, which led him to think that was the problem.

    Car is on it's way to the dealership.

    If this has happened to you...what kind of cost was it? We know that the dealership will have to scan it and figure out specifically what is wrong, but are we talking a few hundred dollars...a few thousand???
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My son drove our Explorer over a median curb at 40 MPH once, blew both front tires, put new tires on, the alignment wasn't even out of whack! They're that tough. If you have had 2 wheels fall off, that car has been severly mangled, or someone hasn't done repairs right. Get rid of it.
  • mcwellmcwell Posts: 6
    The sympton you have is misleading. The fix is to replace the heater control valve located next to the water pump connected inline with the heater core supply line on the return side. You will need to pull down the right wheel well skirt to see it. $20 part and new antifreeze. Also the mounting braket may not fit the replacement part. Just snip the mounting ring and spread it open with pliers to fit. Double check the vacumn line to see if it is working by placing your finger on it with the car running. It should stick to your finger!You can do this!
  • mcmurrerdmcmurrerd Posts: 2
    The blower on my '94 Explorer does not come on all the time. Any suggestions as to the cause.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Replace the blower motor. It's going out.
  • mcwellmcwell Posts: 6
    If your blower motor works normally some of the time, then you probably have a lose connection or corrosion on a terminal. Try moving the wires around with the switch on and see if you get a response. It could be the motor but if it works okay somtimes and not others it is probably the switch or the power-12 volt supply. Double check the fuse box for loose fuses or connections on the blower motor itself. You should be able to test the wires under the hood at the firewall on the passenger side with a volt meter. If you dont know how to use a volt meter, you will need help with this repair.
  • volek4godvolek4god Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Ford Explorer Sport V-6 with SOHC. When I start the vehicle, the engine idle races to about 3000 RPM's and after 15 seconds slows to about 750 RPM's. When I put it in gear it again surges until I come to a stop. Then it will slow again. I have replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, the Throttle Position Control Sensor, cleaned the MAF Sensor and still does same thing. Could it be O2 sensors, vacumn leak or what? Mike
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Do you have a check engine light on? My first guess would be a bad intake manifold gasket leaking air.
  • volek4godvolek4god Posts: 3
    NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Sprayed started fluid in vicinity of intake manifold. No change in rpm's. :sick: http://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/edmunds-webassets/1.13.60/img/forums/webxicon- s/emotorcons/emo_sick.gif
  • volek4godvolek4god Posts: 3
    I disconnected the idle Air Control Valve and the problem with high idle stopped. It still spits and sputters at idle speed with a minor miss. Anyone have a solution?
  • griz9griz9 Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT and I am having issues with the keyless entry pad on the drivers door. With the car locked it only takes one button to unlock the car with the pad, three of the five work with just one press. I tried to disconnect the battery to reset it to the factory code, I have tried to follow the instuctions to erase persoal code and nothing is working. Any ideas how I can fix this??
    Thanks.
  • I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT. My battery died. When I tried to start the car the airbag and Advance Trac warning lights came on. Once I got a boost and was able to replace the battery the Advance Trac Warning Light continues to stays on. This warning light was not on prior to the bad battery. According to the manual it says when this warning light comes on get it serviced immediately. Could this problem be caused by changing the battery? Can this warning light be reset without servicing? I turned off the Advance Trac button inside the SUV but the warning light still stays on. Don't want to get scammed in spending a lot of money to service this "problem".
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    If you have the owner's manual, try to figure out what fuse is connected to Advance Trac, then check the fuse for continuity.
    All that means is that if the fuse is ok, your tester will make a tone.
    If you don't have a tester, you can get one at radio shack for about $20.
  • Thanks for the information. I will give it a try. Hopefully it is just a bad fuse.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm thinking you have a fault caused by a power surge when the new battery was hooked up. I would disconnect the negative terminal again, wait 10 seconds, make sure all accessories in the car are OFF, and reconnect. All of your lights should now stay off when the car is started, and you're fixed. However, if not, you're going to need service, assuming the fuses are indeed all good.
  • Can anybody tell me where can I buy the door armrest cover ( front & rear) for ford explorer 2006. Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Your dealer can order them, usually overnight.
  • riprripr Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 explorer 4x4, when driving under normal conditions it seems when the transmission gets warmed up it starts to knock and loose power. if I take it out of D and put in P or N the noise goes away, I put in gear the knock comes back and an a burning odor like a cluch plate burning. if left alone it the truck will die and will not start. I go back a couple of hours later the truck will start and I was able to drive the short distance home.

    Any Ideas of where to start, the fluid is not low nor does it really look burnt. When the tranny is cold it seems to shift just fine and operate just fine. I would say warm up time is about 20 min of driving.

    Thank you in advance for any guidance
    Rip
  • This morning my engine began making a noise so I immediately took it to my mechanic. I drove 2-3 miles total and did not go over 30mph. He said that somehow I had run out of oil (possibly very low) so he did an oil change. He said it was still making the noise because the lifters (?) did not have oil. He said it would not harm the engine to run it but the noise would be disturbing, and that it may resolve itself in a day or two. If not the lifters would need to be replaced. My dad doesn't believe that's the case and also wants me to add some kind of STP honey? to the oil for extra lubrication. Do I trust my mechanic? Other than driving it home a mile it hasn't been driven.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Problem isn't the transmission, it's the engine. Sounds like it's overheating to me. Check the coolant, watch the temp guage, and go from there.
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