Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

12829313334208

Comments

  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    Its that time. I have a 98 V8 AWD with 46k and I can stand the screeching brakes no longer. Can anyone recommend a brand that is well suited for the explorer? Any advice on brands to stay away from?

    Shocks will come next (it bucks like a wild bull). Past posts have recommended the Edelbrock and the bilstiens (spell?). My concern is that my wife drives it mostly and does not want anything too stiff. Any comments on either brand?
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,506
    In addition to the Explorer specific recommendations that will get posted here, I've found some good info in the Springs & shock absorbers (struts) discussion. There's also a new Aftermarket Brakes discussion but it's pretty empty so far.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I upgraded my shocks to Bilsteins (www.bilstein.com) when I changed the tires. They are far superior to the Ford original shocks. Cornering and handling are much better. The only downside is the price...I paid $65 each.. and that was on sale! I think the Eldelbrock IAS are about the same price.

    BTW: Ford puts the Bilsteins on the F150 Lightning truck at the factory. Posche uses them as well.

    Good luck.
  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    Thanks for the input and direction. I believe I will try the Edelbrocks since I hear people rave about how smooth they are and how much they improve the handling. No info on breaks yet.
  • Had the ol' Explorer XLS back to one of her favorite places today, the dealer. Check some of this out...

    1) I replaced the 4 tires I ride on with Cross Terrains in January amidst all the Firestone mess. I had Wilderness ATs without the VDL or whatever that code was, so I could not get the tires replaced under the recall at that time. So I held on to the receipt, and low and behold I submitted it for reimbursement this summer when they decided to recall all the Firestones. So today, when I had it at the dealer, I requested they replace the spare with whatever they were using. After the truck was at the dealer half the morning they call to tell me that they can't give me the fifth tire because Ford closed my claim, and he told me I could call Ford to try to iron it out! After I reminded him that he was a Ford dealer and he could call them to iron it out, they game me a Michelin M/S on the spare.

    2) Rear wiper motor replaced.

    3) Ah, the creaking seat that nobody can fix! After the dealer called me to inform me that they "could not duplicate the problem", I asked if someone could go for a ride with me. So, as soon as I get in my truck, the radio is blasting as soon as I turn the key - nice way to listen for a noise, huh? So the service advisor finally agreed he heard the sound, and they are ordering me the whole recliner assembly for the driver's seat...I will let you all know what happens.
  • While driving my wife to work, the dreaded "Check Engine" light came on. The truck was running fine, so I payed it no mind, initially. It did not go out, so I decided to investigate, after I made an appointment to bring the truck back to my dealer. Since I had recently did an oil change I started under the engine to see if I had inadvertently pulled off a wire leading to an oxygen sensor or the transmission. All was fine. Checked under the hood, all was fine. So, I assumed it had to be a sensor that had a function that, so far, did not interfere with the engine's performance. One of the last things I checked was the gas cap. Voila!!! it was not tight. It seems that the last time I filled up the tank, in New Jersey where they do not let you pump your own gas, the attendant did not tighten the gas cap. Reset the "Check Engine" light and all is fine. I'm really glad that it turned ou to be something simple. Now, of course, I am going to purchase a OBD-II code scanner so that the sense of panic can be quickly dealt with. I cancelled the appointment with the Dealer and I am happily doing other things.

    Bioman3
  • I have a 99 Explorer XLT V8 AWD with 40,000 miles. About 2 weeks ago it began running a little rough. Thought is was bad gas since it started happening right after I filled up. Last weekend the Check Engine Light came on and even began flashing. The truck was beginning to run worse than ever!

    I brought it in to the dealer and I left paying $450 for new Plug Wires and Plugs. Anyone else ever have this problem? I can't believe that something like this would go at only 40,000 miles. The dealer had no explanation other than this never really happens. And of course, the truck is off lease in a few months and this happens after the warranty expires.
  • rysterryster Posts: 480
    Hi!

    Has anyone happened to check the current Kelley Blue Book trade-in values of their Explorer?

    Checked mine this morning...$16.2K!!!! I have a '00 Explorer XLS 4x4 with 12,600 miles. I bought it new 10 months ago. What a drop! Three weeks ago the blue book was $17.5. It dropped $1,300 in 3 weeks.

    Actually considering bailing out now. At this rate of depreciation, I won't break even (even with the low 0.9% financing) until it's paid for.

    Oh well, so goes the life of a Ford SUV owner.
  • HAVE A 94 EXPLORER WITH 4.0 ENGINE. DROVE IT TODAY IN HOT WEATHER FOR ABOUT 50 MILES OVER HIGHWAY AND 20 BACK HILLY ROADS WITH 3 ADULTS AND A 1800 LB BOAT AND TRAILER. IT WAS A HOT DAY AND THE TEMP CAME UP SOME BUT DID NOT COME NEAR THE VERY HOT AREA OF THE GAGE. WHEN I STOPPED THE TRUCK IT SMELLED WARM. TEMP ON THE GAGE WAS FINE. OPENED THE HOOD AND IT SMELLED HOT IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. LET THE TRUCK SET FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES AND STARTED IT UP AND IT WAS OK. SHUT IT OFF AND ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES LATER A LOUD HISSING SOUND CAME FROM THE CAR. SOUNDED LIKE SOMEONE PUT AN ICEPICK IN A TIRE AND THE AIR WAS COMING OUT. THIS WENT ON FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS. I THOUGHT IF MIGHT HAVE OVERHEATED AND BLEW THE RADIATOR CAP. I CHECKED UNDER THE HOOD AND THE CAP LOOKED FINE. NO LIQUID AROUND IT OR ON THE GROUND, CHECKED UNDER THE TRUCK AND THERE IS NO INDICATION OF ANY LIQUID THAT HAS BEEN DISCHARGED. TRUCK STARTS OK AND RUNS OK. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS HAPPEN? ANY SUGGESTIONS WHAT IT MAY BE?
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Does the A/C still work? Is your serpentine belt ok? How hot did the temp guage go?
    Where was the sound coming from in the engine?

    It might be a vacuum pressure relief valve or else the radiator. You put a big strain on it with the trailer, but if the hissing happens again with no load, I'd have it checked.

    Good luck
  • Has anyone heard of automatic transmission problems in 1996 Explorers, 6-cyl in particular?
  • Ahhh.... the creaking seat!
    I was able to solve that one on my own after living with it for too long on my 1995.
    What I found is that the seatback frame is not mounted tightly. To correct take the seat cover and foam pad off (the cover is attached to itself at the bottom in the rear). Take a TORX wrench (I think it was size T25) and remove the seatback. Reinstall it using a 3/8" washer or two on the inside mount. On the outside I added a homemade bushing (cut from a plastic coffee can lid) between the bolt and frame.

    The creaking was very noticeably reduced, if not completely gone.

    Good luck!
  • This is my first posting and I hope I have the right site. I have purchased a 2002 Ford Exlorer Eddie Bauer and I am having difficulty with the "customer service" from my dealership at Sheehy Ford in Gaithersburg, MD but not the actual vehicle. I am wondering if anyone has information as to whom I may contact at Ford to assist with my problems/complaints. I have emailed customer service at Ford but they continually send me back to the dealer. It took 8 weeks to obtain tags for my truck through the dealer and I was forced to drive for one week on expired temporary tags, the credit company at Ford sent my bill to the wrong address, and they sent me a customer questionaire in Spanish. Noone at the dealership has offered an explanation nor apology nor have they attempted to keep my business. I am not used to such poor consumer care and I want someone at Ford to know about this. Any suggetsions. Thanks. bamboo2
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Its just the beginning.. just wait until you have a problem.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Its a 96.... you probably have the R55 tranny installed. Have your mechanic check. The Dearborn trannys have a lot of maintenance requirements and can get costly because the seals prematurely wear out.

    Check these sites I know it says Ford ranger, but its the same tranny in the Explorer!

    www.homestead.com/therangerstation/AutoTrans.html

    www.allexperts.com/getExpert.asp?Category=811
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    The factory 6-CD changer on my wife's Explorer is dying. Known good discs began to skip regularly and now, more often than not, they are unplayable. Questions: is there a drop in aftermarket replacement? Could this be a repairable problem at a cost savings over a complete replacement? All suggestions welcome.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    My 1996 6 cyl. Explorer is probably ready for a tuneup at 53K miles. Fuel and air filters were changed at 31K but it's never had new plugs or wires. Is value added for the extra price the Ford dealer will charge (I'm guessing double)? Or will he do the same thing as the independent shop and just charge more because of his higher labor rate and use of Motorcraft parts? I usually shy away from the dealers for routine maintenance because they usually recommend a lot of stuff that you don't see in the owner's manual maintenance schedule.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    The dealer will install Ford Motorcraft plugs ($10 each) and wires ($60), and charge you premium prices... both for parts and labor. You can buy Bosch Platinum plugs ($2 each) and wires ($40) at Autozone (or any auto parts store) that are totally compatible with your vehicle (maybe better) and have any competent mechanic install them, or else do it yourself (its easy)..

    The only other things to change is the Tranny fluid and filter and the gas filter.

    You may also want to treat your vehicle to a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner to clean the fuel linjectors. Buy the large bottle.. costs about $10.
  • I can't guarantee you will get satisfaction, but you should get a response if you write a letter to Ford's Customer Assistance Center. Check the first page of the "Model Warranty Guide" for addresses, etc. I had a problem, wrote them and they did respond.
  • The air works fine and the serpentine belt is fine and tight. The gauge is usually at the 1/4 mark but went up to the 1/2 mark. I took the truck out again today and rain it up some hills without a trailer,etc and the gauge went up to 1/2 but came back to 1/4 after coming back down the other side of the hills. I brought it back home shut it off and let it sit after again running the heat gauge up to 1/2 and keeping it there and it cooled with no hissing sound. I do not know where in the engine the hissing sound came from. I just happen to be walking past the truck with the hood down when it happen, it was loud enough to scare me. Sounded like a relief valve letting loose on a steam line.I had some fluid added to the transmission just prior to having the problem and it is about 1/4 inch or a little less up out of the hatched marks on the dip stick. Could this be causing a problem?
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Is the tranny fluid at or below the "add" line? If so, they may not have topped it off when it was serviced. Have you gotten an answer from the dealer?
  • Twice now--once two weeks ago and once again today--the "O/D Off" light has started flashing when the vehicle was started and has kept flashing until the vehicle was shut off. Both times, the vehicle seemed to be operating normally. And both times, the light stopped flashing the next time the vehicle was started. I took it to the dealer. They they changed the fluid (which was due according to the service schedule). They didn't find any problems.

    Has anyone else had this problem?
  • ace10ace10 Posts: 137
    probably didn't notice the pieces of the torque converter nhousing.

    ace
  • rysterryster Posts: 480
    Well, my truck is at the dealer today to have my mysterious door clunk/pop noise repaired.

    Seeing as how they were recently "Blue Oval Certified" I hope they will take the time to thoroughly investigate the problem.

    If I can't get it fixed there, I guess I will try a different dealer (I fully expect to get the "Could not reproduce problem" response).

    Will just have to see what they say.
  • How'd you make out?

    My Exploder is spending the night at the dealer as well, it took almost 3 weeks to get the parts they need to repair/replace the driver's seat recliner assembly. PS...after all that and my leaving it overnight so it is there when they open, the service writer said they "should be able to get to it". NOW ISN'T THAT $30000 WORTH OF CUSTOMER SERVICE?

    For what it's worth, whenever they give me the standard "could not verify concern" or "could not duplicate problem" response, I immediately request the Service Advisor or Service Manager go on a road test with me. That has helped on several occasions with vehicles from different dealers/manufacturers and usually gets them to fix it.
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    2000 miles on my new Escape, reservoir still full of anti-freeze and going strong.
  • A question for Mazman or any other XLS drivers...

    I posted in the past about the vanishing coolant in my 2000 XLS. After it vanished this past winter (honestly I did not keep a good eye on it), I re-filled it in the spring. All summer long it stayed at about the full line, but I noticed it started trending down a few weeks ago, and after I had it out on a good run yesterday (2 trips of about 100 miles each, cruising about 70 on the highway), I've noticed a substantial drop.

    I park in the same place every day, no sign of leaks. Dealer "pressure checked" the system a few months back and said all was well. Oil looks fine. Any ideas?
  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    njdevilsm: I was woundering what happened several months ago why you stopped posting on this issue. I had hoped it was a quick fix. There is a dye you can add to your radiator that will trace where your coolant is going. In my case with three engines it was making it's way into my oil. 2000 xls 4.0 ohv. Good luck.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Remember that oil floats on top of water, so you may not see water on your dipstick.. maybe some rust particles. The way to test for it is
    1. Note the oil level
    2. when they change the oil to let it run into a clean pan and look for signs of water
    3. There is a dye that can be added to the coolant tank to trace the leak into the oil

    Another thought.. if there is a slight defect in the block, water could get into the combustion chamber and then go out of your tailpipe.... especially when the engine is very hot... as would happen on long trips. Take a look at the tailpipe and check for a gummy black residue.

    Hope you find it.
  • Finally tracked down what I thought was overheating of the engine on my 94 explorer 4.0 L. Turns out the smell was not coming from the engine but the clutch was freezing up on the A/C compressor. Finally froze solid and now is a new compressor and clutch. So if anyone out there smells a hot smell coming from you engine compartment take a look at your A/C compressor.s
Sign In or Register to comment.