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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bri66bri66 Posts: 220
    Have your mechanic check your oil. I will bet you will find your coolant in your oil as I have seen with my 2000 xls that has had the same issue with three 4.0 ohv engines. I believe Ford checks these sites often and my attorney has requested that I not post anything at this time. Sorry to hear about your dent, but that's small compared to what your in for with Ford and your engines. I will soon post my entire story start to finish. Ford has lost a loyal fan.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I was in for scheduled 15k service checks at my dealer at 7 am two days after Ford announced the non-recall "customer satisfaction adjustment" on gravestone ATs. put me right on the tire list. they are offering free road hazard for those of us who can wait so Ford gets the older tires replaced first (this is obviously this one dealer's project, but other large dealers may also be doing something similar, if not by default, maybe on request.) got a double-check call yesterday to insure they had the right size on my tire list form. I've got a 2000 Limited, and no cracks or roughness yet, so I'm not hammering on the garage door yet for mine.

    with the hooey that gravestone started slinging Thursday about testing with two Explorers, one Jeep, and one Blazer showing the Explorers supposedly roll over when you whistle and beg for a bone, perhaps we ought to change our sly puns on their brand name. The old logo for Bridgestone used to be the outline of a keystone, like on the top of an arch, with the BS letters inside. perhaps BullStone is more appropriate than Gravestone??
  • I have a 91 ford explorer wtih 140K miles. Withing the last 6 months, I notice the engine starts to race and heat up. This is a symptom when the antifreeze is low. I fill it up and it runs just fine. The problem is that I can't figure out where the antifreeze is going. It doesn't appear to be leaking and when I check the oil, it does not appear to be anything except oil there. Anyone have this problem or any ideas? Thanks.
  • masonmimasonmi Posts: 148
    I don't see many people posting about the Tire recall, has anyone had their tires replaced yet? i'm still on a waiting list.
  • sadatxsadatx Posts: 70
    I have made an appt for this Sat morning at Discount Tire to get my tires replaced. I'm getting the Michelin LTX M/S 255/70/16 and they were about $120 a piece. I called my dealer and he was out of tires but said Ford will reimburse up to $130 a tire. I'm pretty sure balancing and all that other good stuff is also covered. My only concern is that would Ford be reimbursing for 5 tires or just 4. I'm assuming 5 tires so my total came out to about $713 and some change for everything. I would have to take my receipt and my old tires back to my dealer so he can do the paperwork for getting reimbursed. And that should be about 4-6 weeks. I think you can go to your dealer and have your tires replaced (assuming he has some in stock). Reason why I didn't go to my dealer was because I wanted the Michelin's. Hope this helps....

    Good Luck...
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    you need to find the leak. if the engine is getting hot, it's serious. if you don't see any drips on a cardboard or newspaper spread under the radiator and engine compartment, have a shop test for exhaust gas in the radiator.. if it's there, you have a head gasket problem, and will have to have the heads pulled, possibly planed, and the gaskets replaced. at 140K miles, they should probably be rebuilt. if that isn't it, likely issues would include rotting hose ends, radiator core or end bell leaks, leaky draincock, water pump and gasket, bad radiator cap allowing steam to wisp into either the overflow tank or directly into the air, etc. the fluid is going someplace, and if it's not onto the ground, you have a big problem possible... find out what it is, and then figure out whether you want to fix or trade.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the plant idling continues, at least at St. Paul Highland, if not at Edison and Louisville, so there are several truckloads of current production tires, mostly Goodyears and Michelin, availiable a day for replacement. these should be getting into the parts flow Real Soon Now.
  • gkl12gkl12 Posts: 2
    I have a loud screeching noise when I apply the brakes on my '96 explorer. I have had the brakes checked by two different mechanics and each say they are fine. But the noise continues. Any suggestions...
  • enforcerenforcer Posts: 40
    I have the same problem with my 1997 explorer. One day the antifreeze is fine, next day it's gone. However, this only happens when I am driving on long trips of 200+ miles per day. Can't find any leaks at all.

    Best thing to do is check the oil and antifreeze every time you fill up. Never had to do this with my BMWs, guess it's just Ford quality.
  • gregb5gregb5 Posts: 82
    My '95 was losing some anti-freeze, too, and I occasionally got a whiff of it in the garage. Like yours, no visible evidence of where it was leaking from. I had over 90K on it at the time, so I changed the thermostat and put new upper and lower hoses on it. No leaks after that. It may not be your problem, but it's a cheap attempt at a fix!
    Good luck!
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Hello, I have a 2000 XLS, just hit 12000 miles today. About a month and a half ago, I noticed the coolant reservoir was completely empty, so I refilled it. About 3 weeks ago, I noticed it was about halfway down, so I filled it to the line again. Took it to the dealer yesterday, they checked it and said it was a-ok - pressure check, and oil was ok. No puddles where I park, no white smoke, nothing. They said they will look into it further if it continues, but I don't know what else to check.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I have an idea.

    When you come back from a trip of > 15 mins. Park in your driveway (hopefully on a level surface) and put a cardboard under the radiator/ engine area. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Look for puddles. What this will do is check to see if there is any leak in the system after the thermostat has opened up and the engine is warm. It might be something as silly as a loose upper hose.

    BTW, the dealers always say that, and they want you to come back for more service when the problem repeats.

    Also, saw the NJ/Colorado game. Sorry they lost... but it was a good run. Their goalie was really having a good day. Maybe next year.

    Good luck.
  • ketoketo Posts: 2
    I'm thinking about keeping my '93 explorer that's been a great truck. It has 83k miles on it and I'm wondering if there are any relatively inexpensive ways to enhance engine performance such as custom air filter, fuel injector system, exhaust etc. Anyone have an older V6 OHV 160HP they have experimented with, or can recommend any good sites I might look at. I don't want to fix something that ain't broke, but would like to get a little more HP. Thanks.
  • hodog16hodog16 Posts: 53
    Hello,

    I'm new to this board, and I've read the messages on this topic back until February, so forgive me if this question was discussed before then.

    On my family's 1998 EB 2WD V6, we've been experiencing hesitation problems lately. It first occurred a few weeks ago, when the car would jerk and hesitate when I tried to accelerate when going 50+mph.

    I took the car into service and they said that this problem was addressed in a service bulletin, and they recoded the computer to fix the problem.

    Well, things were good for awhile, but then we found the same problem again, as well as the same hesitation now at idling. When these hesistations occurr at idling, the tach needle dips to around 500rpm.

    The dealer on the second visit couldn't find any codes on the computer to fix, and these problems only occur after driving the car for awhile. anybody else experience this problem? Thanks for any help!

    BTW, the explorer is confined to the garage for awhile, since it has 35,930 miles on it.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    You might have water in your gas tank or bad gas. What you can do it put some gas dryer/water remover in the tank and drive it at highway speed for about 20 mins and see if it improves. As a matter of course, I add a bottle of Gumout Extra fuel injection cleaner every oil change. That's what the dealer probably did when you had them check out your vehicle.

    I would also try a different gas station. And I would not let the gauga go below 1/4 tank for a while. My explorer runs best with Mobil 87 octane. I've tried Exxon and Ammoco and they are ok as well. My truck runs worst with Getty, Gulf and Texaco.

    Good luck
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    possibility of a lazy oxygen sensor exists... also issues with the EGR valve or vacuum lines in general have bedeviled me as well with similar symptoms. check over your vacuum lines really carefully, anything with funnelled or cracking ends needs to be replaced. it's sorta sensor roulette with multiple O2 sensors if that is the issue, so since no codes are being stuck, I'd do cheap things first, also replace the PVC valve just on general principle. if the vehicle acts up at a safe place to pop the hood and hink around with it, try hitting all vacuum hose ends/fittings with a little shot of water or window solvent in a spray bottle... if you catch one and the fumble or jitter stops or idle speed goes back up, you have a part or hose that has a leak to fix. I finally got stuck with an O2 sensor replacement when my Ranger 2.3L started up at -25 degrees but died hard just as the temperature was starting to rise on the engine.
  • brophbroph Posts: 85
    just under the can nose. i have a 96 & sometimes it stays right in the middle. My neighbor thinks that it could be a bad sending unit. Has anyone had a similar problem & was it costly to fix? Thanks

    Tom
  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    I had a 95 ranger with the 3.0 that had the same problem. Sometimes it was fine and others it was goofy. I changed the oil and it was fixed. Found out through my father-in-law (Ford mechanic) that it is common with fords especially with the "green" oil from the factory. Obviously this is not your case but you might want to try using a synthetic oil or at least a blend and see if that dosnt take care of it. Try Mobile or Valvoline full synthetic.
  • gpdltgpdlt Posts: 1
    I had LTX A/T's installed on my 1991 Explorer at Sam's Club at 54,000 they are still going strong at 156,000. Keep them properly rotated and balanced and you should enjoy a long life out of them.
  • J.D. Power's own quality survey has just named the 2001 Expedition as the highest quality full-size SUV you can buy. Sequoia came in fifth...lots of issues, which is uncharacteristic for Toyota...but perhaps they bit off too much with this launch into a new product segment. Read the Sequoia Town Hall postings to get a feel for the issues Toyota faithful are dealing with...

    Also, the NHTSA website for crash test results (http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/testing/ncap/), indicates that Expedition is the only SUV that has ever received double five star crash ratings. The new Tahoe scored only three stars for the driver. The Sequoia hasn't been rated yet by NHTSA, but the Tundra on which it is based also scored only three stars...the Sequoia being heavier but with a common front frame design could be worse. I don't know why Ford hasn't used this in their advertising, but I have seen it on the window stickers of new Expeditions.
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