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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • rysterryster Posts: 476
    My '00 Explorer has the 4.0L OHV V6. I find it much more enjoyable to drive than my parent's '00 Mountaineer with the 4.0L SOHC V6. Engine power and responsiveness is not all that different, which is not surprising considering the similar torque ratings. Ford used the 4.0L OHV engine for a number of years before offering the SOHC engine. It is more than adequate for people who do not do a lot of towing and simply want a good, reliable runabout.

    The 5.0L V8 is a good engine, but it has a tendency to leak oil (weak seals). As stated previously, there is no such thing as a sure thing. Research does lessen one's chance of ending up with a problematic vehicle, but all in all the Ford Explorer in any version is a reliable vehicle.

    Ultimately, though, life is too short to start analyzing the individual components of each vehicle to determine the combinations that will lead to the worst and/or best chances for reliability. It is more important to get what you want and what best meets your needs. Buy what you like, not what someone else tells you you should like. If it breaks along the way, like most vehicles will, get it fixed and press on. After a few years it can be traded in for something else.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    geez, opera house, "normal" to me is a couple tuneups, several brake jobs, maybe a radiator, for sure a few sets of hoses, zillions of filters and oil changes, PVC valve or two, and a set or two of tires in 120k or 140k. there's usually one R P A on any car, my last one was an oil pump job because of a screwy oil pan design that eroded the pan gaskets, which plugged the pump. but sounds like that 92 with 220K was bought from Jed Clampett, and you had to take the concrete blocks it was sitting on when you hauled it off.
  • I just can't get a water pump from Auto .... that will last more than 16 months. When I bought it at 90K, the overdrive planetary gear was bad. Had a back yard garage rebuild it for $760, a very cheap price. Should have paid a little more and had the torque converter replaced at the time. Lockup converter went out about 14 months later. Figured I'd wait till something else happened. I kept going for over 100k. The one problem I forgot was the fuel pressure regulator. Engine would loose power on high speed right turns. Anyone with strange engine problems should replace that fuel pressure regulator. Both cars are beautiful . Had the hood and roof repainted on the 92, typical Ford paint peal problem. Rebuilding the transmission will be my summer project.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I will file that one away in the cobwebs and senior moments for future reference, lots of posts among various car owners about "dies making a turn" on cars that don't have warped floats to hang in the carb any more.

    as for the water pumps, sounds like maybe the shop's source is suspect, like using little tick-tick hammers in the middle of the bearing race to seat the front bearings.
  • These are brand new water pumps from a national retail chain. Every one tells me they have the same experience with other chains. How come I can get 120K on a factory water pump and after market pumps last 40K. This isn't rocket science and the belt alignment/tension is not a problem. They keep giving me free replacements.

    I would recommend that when a fuel pump is replaced that the regulator is too. I had 150K on the vehicle and do a lot of traveling away from home. It was warm and sunny so I decided to replace the fuel pump even though the vehicle was running fine. I figured why wait till I'm 500 miles away from home and it is snowing. After replacing the pump, the car began to stall occasionally at stop lights. When I cut open the regulator, I found it had worn a flat spot on the seat. The higher flow rate of the new pump caused the valve to open wider and cause it to hang up on this seat bevel.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    are those rebuilt water pumps? I would sure expect that sort of behavior from rebuilts. the other possibility is that when the long nose of Ford is not hanging over their shoulder, the manufacturers go cheap-out and slack the inspections, don't balance as closely, etc. you KNOW that Ford is not making their pumps, it's lowest bidder vs delivery time vs warranty returns that determines who gets the job in parts land, and it's a tough dollar making OEM parts now. the automakers are squeezing every nickel so hard the buffalo (whines) when they hand 'em to the parts companies.
  • Taiwan or Japan, maker seems to change each time. I am amazed at some rebuild prices. With the lockup converter out, the car was like a soap box derby racer going down hill. I went through front brakes like crazy. Love those lifetime warranties. After a 12 mile trip down Mt. Greylock, MA, I smoked the calipers. The rubber boot just disintegrated. Bought rebuilt ones for $12 each. After shipping the new part, return shipping on the old, and retail profit, What does the rebuilder get? $5-$6 Makes you think about whose hands your putting your life in. Much like people who have sneakers that cost more than the tires they are driving around on at 75 mph.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    as in "confidence job." no wonder the production is out where annual wages are about what we pay for dog food over here. it all depends on which island is above water this month, and those are the critical life safety parts we and those around us depend on.

    but then, if I had an opinion, I might sound off ;)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    CAn anyone recommend replacement tires for my Explorer? Tired of the Goodyear RT/S that strt to cup after 20,000 miles. Any recommendations?
  • lariat10lariat10 Posts: 22
    Last night after stopping at a light the o/d light on the instrument panel started to flash and the trans would not shift into overdrive. Has any one else had this happen to them and if so was it a major repair. My explorer has about 65k way to early for a major transmission repair bill I hope.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    lots of previous posts, it indicates the 3-4 shift is a goner, time for a rebuild. tons of 'em a few months back on this thread, but going back to 1998 in an archived thread here is possibly the first mention of the issue. haven't figured out how to stick links off Edwards, so here's cut and paste. the current thinking, and something I'm doing in my 2000, is to lock out the OD around town unless I know I'm going over 50 and/or staying there... I have the towing package 2000 V8 AWD and the shift/lockup point on my car is about 42 mph, otherwise most anecdotal evidence is it happens right around 50 mph.

    for what it's worth, Dad's (d) 1975 Suburban diesel towmobile (d) was the first time I'd ever experienced tranny hunt, and all the towing authorities then were adamant that you wanted to lock that sucker out of OD if you were pulling a load or hitting hunt around town, save it for the highway.

    some things never change...

    [F] Town Hall / SUVs / SUVs - Archived Discussions / Ford Explorer transmissions

    #27 of 524 cujet by cujet Apr 01, 1998 (06:23 pm)

    Be forwarned! my 96 sport V6 auto shifts too much. during highway driving 20 mi to work it shifts 37 times 3-4, 4-3, 3-4,etc the torque convertor unlocks 105 times, all this with just small throttle changes. Been to the dealer at 16K mi and 34K mi they couldnt find a problem! Well guess what, all that shifting has taken its toll it now slips during the 3-4 shift!! and Im now at 44K mi, out of warranty. Good luck to all you 95-96 owners out there!
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    I wish my Explorer's tranny lasted 65k. My 2000 model year Explorer's tranny lasted 21,200 miles. As for the O/D light flashing, the dealer I had my truck serviced at said that light flashing pretty much means the tranny has major issues. Good luck, as I found out the replacement would have cost well over $2000 if it were not on warranty.

    As for the question about tires, I have Michelin Cross Terrains (OEM for 2002 Explorer) and they ride great and give good traction, mileage.
  • agarianagarian Posts: 3
    ANYONE KNOW WHAT TSB94229 IS? or where to go at ford for info?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,971
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will give you a summary TSB (and recall) list for your SUV.

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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,971
    Ford Ending Tire Replacement Plan

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  • lariat10lariat10 Posts: 22
    I talked to a transmission tech at my local ford dealer he told me to disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect and try it. This will remove a false error code in the computer. It has been 4 days and about 300 miles with no problems.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    there is a guy at work who said last week on discussing this issue there is one grizzled old tech at his dealership who does a chip diddle on the tranny controller and fixed his issues as well... but it took three visits until he got to "ol'Hans" to do it. details unknown.

    if there is a known false code, reason tells me there should also be a FSB out with a new chip or programming adjustment that can be done in the shop.

    anybody who finds out what is up, please post.
  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    I have a '92 XLT 4x4, 136,000 on the clock. Ford donated a set of tires during the recall. I was on my second set of the OE Firestones at 103,000 miles. No trouble with them at all.


    The dealer put a set of Bridgestone Dueler HL on the truck. Wisper quiet, track dead straight, soft ride, tight in the corners, and at 122,000 miles when they were last measured they had lost only 1/32 of an inch to wear.


    However, they were measured because I hit something while driving and blew out the left front tire. Make no mistake, the tires aren't the only issue; a less experienced driver would have rolled that truck over. I managed to stop it, but it was a thrill, and I was cruising on the open road at 60 mph when the tire went down (imagine freeway speeds!).


    The new ones are still stones, but I have no complaints. The tire that blew was not defective: it was punctured. But if I were buying, I'd go with Michelin LTX. My personal history with Michelin is that they are a fine tire. It is also the tire of choice from this website on Explorer maintenance:


    http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html


    As hard as that truck was to control with a blow out, I don't plan to let tires on it wear past 50% again, and I'll buy the best tire I can afford in the future (Read: Michelin or BFGoodrich), and donate the old ones to one of the local high school kids driving on slicks.

  • mdeymdey Posts: 90
    I posted this message on the other Explorer board and so far no response.

    I have a 92 XLT 4x4 with 136,000 on the clock. The steering on this thing has always been a little on the loose side. However, it seems worse now than in the past (may be perceived, but anyway...).

    I've had the radius arm bushings replaced on both sides, and the steering has been shimmed and aligned. The shocks are Gabriel VSTs with about 25,000 miles on them, and they are fine. The bearings, hubs, and wheels seem to be fine, serviced about 10,000 miles back. I can't find any play from tie rods, and the steering column looks like it is in good shape. The tires are in excellent shape. The last time I had it in for service, the local Ford dealer said that's just the way these trucks are.

    But my son drives it some, although not to school yet. I use it as a weekend workhorse. Before I turn my son loose with it as a daily driver, I'd like to tighten the steering up some. Anyone have any thoughts on tightening up the steering on this beast?
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    2000 explorer same problem 2yrs in a row catalytic converter put on 2 times. NOW! same problem screeching sound itermittent on and off mainly when speeding. but im wondering will ford cover it? im no longer covered on bumper to bumper.my extended warranty does not cover exhaust so will ford or what recourse do i have help as yall know its a piece of ........... but it will do until oct this yr FREEDOM!!!!!!!!!! HELP
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