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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    had a 65 plymouth and a 76 buick manual that both mentioned there may be strap-metal weights welded to the drive shaft for vibration counterbalance, don't hink around with any you find. same story with harmonic balancers, flywheels, etc. although there the balancing is by drill-outs.
  • I am changing u-joints and the ford maunal says torque drive line yoke to rear axle flange 70-90ft-lb but front yoke to transfer case 12-16 lbs-the attachments front to back are identical and since the front only bolts on (doesn't insert into tail shaft splines) I need to confirm since it would be major problem if it came loose. Also I had to use a breaker bar to brake both front a back loose. (appears they also used lock-tight on threads and both torqued to the same from factory.
    I am trying to complete today since my sons needs the vehicle to get back to school.
    Also does 70-90 ft-lbs sound too much for 3/8 bolt?
    Please also email me to donnapaca@aol.com with any help.
    Thank you
    Don
  • My 2002 XLT has had belt issues and replacements 5 times since I bought my 'certified' vehicle at 22K miles. It now has 48K miles and the belts are making noise again. The main part they keep replacing is the FMC JK6 862 AA (IL2Z 8620 AB) and other tensioner assembly parts. This is quite frustrating (obviously, my one shot I gave Ford vehicles is their last shot). Any advice when bringing it in? Should this perpetual problem be covered under the 'certified' extended warranty?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My 2002 Mountaineer has had the same problem. This last time, they replaced the water pump pulley....seems to have fixed it this time. I don't know.....but they seem to have this problem with many 4.0L SOHC engines. Personally, it's not a deal breaker for me, I've got 30,000 miles on the car, and this is the only problem we've had. In fact, I may buy it out of the lease we like it that much.
  • Vibrations while turning are caused by the power steering hose/exhaust vibrating under steering pump load on the engine. There is an update for the hoses and an exhaust bracket that makes those noises completely disappear and makes the steering smooth as silk.

    Does anyone have the part number for the part for the above problem? 98 ford explorer.

    thanks
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I think you need to express your dissatisfaction with the results of their work. Probe a bit to see if he has any idea what else could cause the noise besides what he has already replaced mutliple times. If you get a clueless answer like "I've done what the manual says and don't know what else to do" it's time to move to another dealer, or even an independent shop. My guess it's another accessory that is out-of-line from bad bearings, like nvbanker said. But that's a guess. Keep all documentation so that any shop down the road will know what work has already been performed.
  • I have a '98 Explorer XLT with 40k miles on it. Two distinct problems have presented themselves recently. I've noticed that the temprature goes from cold to hot within 3 or 4 minutes of staring a journey and oscillates back and forth to the point of where the "check guage" light comes on frequently. No sign of overheating, it has sufficuent coolant and no apparent leaks.

    Another problem is an intermittemt vibration / grinding sound when taking off from a stopped positon. Last service was done at 36k where they flushed the transmission to check for any residue of metal which mayb have been caused by grinding - none found - any thoughts before I spend a lot of money trying to dignose the problem ?
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    My guess solution for the temp guage issue is a new thermostat. They are a cheap first stab at a fix. They are also a common problem on the SOHC 4.0L V6 (if that is the engine you have?). As far as the grinding, that may be a condition with your exhaust. From what I know Ford has a bracket set to correct this problem, but I am not sure on the price. I actually have had both of these problems with my wifes 2000 Limited. The truck overheated last summer and needed a new thermostat, though hers gave out without any warning while sitting in a fast food drive thru.

    The grinding and vibrations I get from the exhaust still remain, and they don't bother me or my wife at all because they only happen when the truck idles and only very rarely.

    These are just some suggestions, and may or may not be the solutions to your issues, goodluck!

    BTW, I would get the thermostat changed ASAP! The grinding that I am refering to will not harm the vehicle, it just annoys some people.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    As far as the grinding noise, it's just impossible to diagnose without hearing. It could be anything.
    For the temperature problem, you need to first have the sending unit's output tested with a digital multimeter to verify that the gauge is reporting the sender's signal correctly, then have the engine temp tested with an infrared sensor near the sender to verify that it is sending the correct temp signal. If the electrical is working correctly, then you have a legitimate overheating problem that you can't ignore. It only takes a few overheat cycles to ruin engine gaskets. Your problem could be anything from a bad thermostat, leaking intake gaskets (common on the 4.0), or leaking head gaskets. All can cause rapid temperature spikes, especially early on a cold morning.
  • My 98 XLT calls for Mercon V transmission fluid.

    All the quick lube places offer a full tranny fluid swap, but offer Mercon/Dexron III with a 10 oz. "additive" to meet Mercon V requirements.

    The Ford dealer tranny service will use straight Mercon V, but only drops the pan and changes what's in there, leaving the new fluid to get dirty in under 10K miles.

    Is there any risk in using the quick lube Mercon/DexronIII additive approach? I can't seem to find any research data or complaints about ruined transmissions.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    My gut feeling says go with what is factory recommended. I didn't know there was an additive to change one type of transmission fluid into another!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Why does the dealer only drop the pan and not flush the torque converter? Mine does a full change.....
  • I can't identify where this rattle is originating. It is coming somewhere from the back of the vehicle. Maybe in the rear doors or in the hatch? It only happens on bumpy roads. Any ideas?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    a loose spare tire?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I had good tension, but lots of squealing with the OEM belts. had a couple idlers replaced, no change. since I had the same issues on my 90 ranger, I decided to get away from the Dayco-sourced OEM belts. a Gates has run smoothly with no noise now for 8000 miles, and I heartily recommend bringing in your own belt when you go back.

    goodyear "gatorback" belts are also supposed to stay put and not squeal.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,836
    check out your luggage rack; mine was loose at the left rear attachment point. drove me crazy.
    the sound of silence is great, especially since i got it fixed just before a 900 mile trip.
  • Anyone else notice that the heated seats suck on the current bodystyle Explorer? Mine is an '03 (Mountaineer, really) and the heated seats take forever to heat up, only get lukewarm, do NOT have a temperature control...it's one lukewarm temperature, take it or leave it, and they shut off when FORD thinks they should shut off...meantime by butt is still freezin'.

    I realize it's no Lexus, but even my 2002 Volkswagen Beetle had an almost instant warm up, a temp control that could be set even hotter than almost anyone could tolerate for an extended period (but enjoy for those first few minutes on a bitter day). Why the suckie heated seats on my top-o-the-line $40,000 Mountaineer Premier? Yeah, I already know the answer.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,596
    Heated seats. My 1997 Explorer Limited has beautiful leather seats, but no heaters. Feels like sitting on cold plywood when the temps dip to -30 or so.

    I had an 01 Jetta with heated seats, things only worked on the hottest setting, so it was either burn the butt or shut them off. Dealer always said that was normal.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My wife's 02 Mountaineer's seat heaters are just fine with us. We have no complaints. BTW, the reason they shut off after 20 minutes or so, is so the load on the charging system is minimized, as people tend to forget about them, and they run forever. Personally, I'm not really fond of that, but I understand the concern.

    On my Navigator, you have heated AND Air Conditioned seats, with temperature controls. They still turn off after 20 minutes, and you have to restart them.
  • Check with service and see if this is a software adjustable item. With Volvos, I believe a software adjustment can be made for a fee.
  • Vibrations while turning are caused by the power steering hose/exhaust vibrating under steering pump load on the engine. There is an update for the hoses and an exhaust bracket that makes those noises completely disappear and makes the steering smooth as silk.

    Does anyone have the part number for the part for the above problem? 98 ford explorer or the cost for these parts?

    thanks
  • It took forever but there is now a cast aluminum pan made for the A4LD, 4R55E and 5R55E that adds a couple extra quarts over the stock one. Currently the 2WD (no pickup tube on filter) is available. They didn't notice that the 4WD pan was deeper. Soon a deeper 4WD pan will be available. Better check first for clearance with a SOHC engine. Priced at $165. For more info go to

    www.yourcovers.com
  • nadavinadavi Posts: 14
    my 93 explorer suddenly (after stoping for about 30 minutes) lost all the electric power - no light, horn, PDL .. nothing at all. obviously it does not start. jump starting does not help. the battery seams to be okay. what else can it be? is there a master fuse somewhere?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Probably, but it sounds like either a bad ground somewhere, or still could be a shorted out battery. They may act alive, but really be dead. I still bet on the ground. Check the cables at all ends and connections. I'll bet one is loose somewhere, may be under the truck near the starter.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    there is, however, a single ground cable from battery to engine block. even the starter has a separate lead from the battery to the starter relay, and thence to the starter assembly.

    it is possible that the remaining +12 wire to the power distributor block could have a squirrelly contact. but that is shielded from road spray, salt, sand, crud, and corruption to large extent by the power distributor block.

    the ground wire or the battery are the most likely culprits. round 'em up and interrogate them. one tap of a small screwdriver placed between the connector and either the battery or the block, which will upset a little metal and break through any corrosion in several spots, is a useful first test. mind you, don't swing that sledge like you mean business when tapping the battery post, or you are going to need a shower real fast to get the acid off.
  • I have noted the vibrations jl36031 described in post #2285 in my 99 Explorer (V8). It is most noticed while turning the wheel quickly while moving slowly (or even stopped). I previously pointed this out to the Ford service advisor while the truck was in for another repair, and his response was that this was normal. I've never owned a vehicle that did this before, and it really drives me crazy when I'm backing my boat down the ramp. I've searched for a TSB but couldn't find one. Has anybody else come across this issue or know of a TSB addressing this?

    After 4 years, I have no real complaints about the truck, except for the door rattle that several dealers have tried to fix. My rotors are about spent, seems like rotors should last more than 40,000 mi. Anybody have any suggestions for good replacement rotors?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    particularly when jeep owners seem to need 'em between 20 and 30 thousand, from the whines coming from that direction.

    rotors are not lifetime, machine 'em each set of pads, parts any more. on most cars they are so darn thin you can read through 'em. be glad you got 40K out of 'em, and didn't warp 'em like potato chips first time you had to slam both feet on the brake pedal.

    OEM explorer rotors seem plenty tough, but there should be heavy-duty ones from the usual sources (raybestos, wagner, and autolite/bendix.) site unseen, and unmiked, those are the only sources I'd trust.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sometimes, rotor wear is a function of the pads that are used. Long life pads tend to wear out the rotors faster than normal ones. I have had some pretty creative pads used on my cars when independent shops do the brakes. From now on, I use the dealer, or a shop I think knows what the car calls for. My rotors go on and on now.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Anchor that high pressure hose somewhere with a plastic tie or something. Your vibration will stop.
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