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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

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  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    Uh-oh. I wish I had been wrong. You might as well replace all of them once the engine is apart. Are you sure there was no damage to the valves or pistons? I thought the AJ V8 was an interference engine which usually results in more damage when the timing chain breaks. Unless the overheating stressed the timing chain it's probably not related so make sure you get that fixed too.
  • ldogg2ldogg2 Posts: 4
    After replacing the fan twice,the radiator,degasse bottle and all the hoses,thermostat was fine and a motor to the thermostat
    turned out it was the hydraulic fan pump, After being pimped by Raceway Ford dealership in Moreno Valley CA,after the replaced the entire cooling system the manager tells me the computer said that the hydraulic pump was the first thing they should have checked. The overheating has stopped
    but when they finished the heater no longer worked,but I will never take my car back there for any work or purchase of a car,and to tired to file a complaint. good luck
  • how to change the transmission fluid on this car your self and how much do you need and what kind? :(
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    The dealer uses a machine that takes the old fluid from the outbound cooler line and replaces it with new fluid in the inbound cooler line thereby replacing 95% of the fluid in the entire transmission. This is the recommended method.

    You can do it yourself with rubber tubing and 2 clean 5 gallon buckets - just make sure you keep fresh fluid in the intake bucket and run the car to get the pump going.

    You can drop the pan and change the fluid that way but you'll only get a fraction of the old fluid out. Not recommended.
  • Hi,got hydraulic fan issues,what all is needed to do this swap for an electric fan,Tracy
  • My mechanic replaced my hydraulic fan with an electric fan. I haven't had a overheating problem yet...we'll see what happens during the summer months. Since its been replaced though it makes this weird humming noise. My mechanic said its because the pump is dry since its not being used.. does that sound right ? Timing chain went a couple months ago had that replaced luckily no piston or valve damage. I've been having some issues with my transmission, whenever I put it in reverse it takes a minute to go into gear and then it kicks back really hard. Any idea what could be causing that ?? I had a tranny flush done but that didn't help the issue. Also my ABS and brake lights are on. I know I have a ABS issue cus sometimes when I go to brake the petal pushes back up. Is that fixable and does anyone know how much that part costs ?
  • julia2178..What kind of electric fan did you purchase. I need to purchase one ad I'm having the same issues.
  • I bought a universal electric fan nothing special I bought it at autozone.
  • punahelepunahele Posts: 1
    2000 lincoln ls 3.9 over heating issue change the hydraulic fan assembly and thermostat cant get the fan to come on. car sits and ideal for 20 mins or so starts over heating fan will not kick on to cool car down. please help any suggestions???????
  • HappsterHappster Posts: 30
    There are plenty of posts on this string explaining the chronic issues with the hydraulic fans. Try swapping to an electric one.
  • ldogg2ldogg2 Posts: 4
    The problem for my car when the fan wouldnt come on was the hydraulic fan motor which was
    about $600 dealer part. I changed the fan twice before they figured out the problem.
  • HappsterHappster Posts: 30
    And they suck all around. Buy an electric fan for half the price installed and be done with it.
  • I had issues with my LS overheating and after a lot of money spent...found out it was also my reservoir tank as well. I would have to fill up the reservoir tank a couple times of week, which baffled us because it was told that my coolant was burning off somewhere in the engine, which could be tale-tale signs of a blown head gasket (that's what was told to me), my heat also did not blow hot during this time. Well it turned out to be the reservoir cap was not sealing tightly on the reservoir, that was causing the pressure to build up and overheat. The coolant was just leaking from the top of reservoir cap because it wasn't sealed properly. In the end it was a very minor and inexpensive problem but had all the symptoms of a major problem
  • HappsterHappster Posts: 30
    Yup, uninformed mechanics assume that it is leaking internally because there is no signs of external leakage. Problem is that it only leaks out at high RMP, usually when you're on the highway, when the degas bottle is taking the overflow and full. You won't find a puddle on your driveway. Mine leaked out of the seam defect on the degas bottle, but the cap would have the same effect. Then as the engine cools, instead of sucking the coolant back into the engine, it sucks air, causing air blockages in the lines and overheating. Unexplained low coolant, no heat, overheating...all symptoms of blown head gaskets.
  • garthmangarthman Posts: 42
    Happster:

    Any solutions for the Advance Trac message on the dash and the illuminated (always on) skid mark light? I went to Lincoln in Palm Springs and they said the ABS/Traction Control Module needs replaced as there was a fault code C1286, Booster Mechanical Failure.

    This part retails for $1,100 at Ford plus there a recalibration procedure needed once replaced.

    I heard there are places that rebuild your own module thus, no recalibration necessary. Heard of this or another repair avenue to solve? As far as I can tell, the ABS still works, as does the advance trac as I've felt it work in the rain. Not sure if it's 100% correct but seems to work.
  • jen0jen0 Posts: 10
    Hi- I didn't have that prob. but I just got rid of my 02 LS V8 sport and that car is seriously the WORST CAR EVER BUILT BY FORD! Know for all the "Electronic Failures" my suggestion........as I have learned MANY times with the LS....it could just be the electronics acting up - my "Traction Control" which in New England doesn't do jack light has been stuck on before. Did you try un hooking your battery? Just a shot in the dark but may work. Mine stuck on from time to time sometimes for a few days even then just goes off especially when it was cold out. My LS had 230,000 miles on it - my rear A-frame rotted out - not weldable won't pass inspection and not safe to drive. It had a lot of other issues as well at the time....the god damn check engine light was on AGAIN and the "Check Charging System" has been on for months - replaced battery and altenator ([non-permissible content removed] OF A JOB) and still on!! It's a bad connection we think considering the car sat ALL WINTER LONG and still fires up right away. BOTH my Cats are clogged - due to driving with Cylinder misfires - the 02 should have been recalled on Cylinder misfires - the 03 was - OMG yeah I have had like 5 or 6 of the coils done, spark plugs too. Owned for 6 LONG [non-permissible content removed] PAINFUL YEARS. My suggestion dump this car while you still can I wish I had. I know it's a sweet car -mine which is still sitting in my backyard - prob gonna scrap - black with black leather - sunroof all the bell and whistles. Well good luck to you.
  • totaljetttotaljett Posts: 27
    I have a 2000 Ls V6 and traction control light has been off and on for 3 yrs. If I was you I wouldn't sweat it. The cost of fix may not be worth the light staying off. I have 206,000 miles on my Ls and got it 62, 000 miles in 2003. It's been paid for and I would dream of getting rid of it with all the past repairs been made. Getting all my money and sum by keeping it...lol
  • HappsterHappster Posts: 30
    edited July 2013
    Huh, with a little effort, prompt attention to fault lights and know-how, my LS had 250k on it and was in showroom condition when I traded it. It has faults, as all cars do, but they were easily fixed. Let an engine misfire for more than 15 miles and you'll be lucky if all you lose is your cats. Sounds like maintenance failures to me.

    Replace the clock spring and watch all the false abs warning lights disappear for good (once recalibrated at the dealer for $90). See my prior post for details.

    Didn't have any prob with the traction control. Don't think it runs through the steering wheel (unless your switch is on your wheel). Start with the easy stuff - test (or replace) the switch. If that's good, check your tires for wear. It works by counting the rotations and when one tire spins more rotations than the others over the same distance, it senses a spin condition and kicks in. An undersized tire (by size or extreme wear) will mimick that process because a smaller wheel takes more turns to travel the same distance. The next cheapest fix would be cleaning and testing the sensors (on the hubs). Only then would I suspect the brain. If the cheaper fixes work, your last task is to get a new mechanic, because he's porking you if he's jumping right to the most expensive part.

    Also, there's something to be said for leaving well enough alone. if it seems to be working, in your state does not fail a vehicle because the traction control light is on, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I find that a small piece of black electrical tape over the indicator light works well.
  • garthmangarthman Posts: 42
    My mechanic says the ABS light will illuminate if the wheel sensors are bad or detect what you explain. The Advance Trac light is unrelated they said. I've disconnected the battery recently as it was time for a new battery so the cables were off for a good half hour. Nothing had changed.

    The clock spring seems to be the best value to fix for now since all the steering wheel buttons and radio dash lights including the radio stay on feature when you turn off the key and leave the doors shut will all come back to function normally.
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