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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

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  • My 00 LS is also over heating. It does not do it all the time. It will go weeks without acting up. Then it over heats and i pull over, give it about 10 minutes and continue on. I do notice that the heater takes for ever to warm up. i am going to try a thermostat change first, since it is cheap. I noticed that people are saying that the LS uses a Hydralic fan. The replacement I see on the net says electric. DORMAN OEM REPLACEMENT RADIATOR FAN ASSEMBLY -- A High Quality Direct Fit OEM Replacement Radiator Fan Assembly $173.91. Is this right?
    I still like this car. :sick: i would like to hear from people that have had this problem fixed.
  • Are you kidding i love the car the only problem is i have had it for 3 years and i only put 20,000 miles on it. Raw deal in know. I will have to do whatever you guys tell me to do, because i am completely clueless about this car and the problems it suffers with! :cry:
  • antagantag Posts: 1
    My 2002 LS has about 105K miles on it. Lately, I have a bad overheating problem. I start the car and it runs fine. When the temperature gauge gets to half way I can hear I high pitched whining noise and the temperature starts to go up until it says check engine temperature. At that point I pull the car over and wait. I noticed that after a minute or two I could hear what sounds like a valve opening and fluid starting to run through the engine. At this point I can turn the car on and go. The high pitch whine is still there for a few moments, but goes away. This problem does not happen all the time. It seems to be worse in the colder weather and takes longer or more attempts for the "valve to open."

    Any ideas as to what could cause this. I have read many posts and it seems that it could be a number of things.

    Thanks
  • Honestly it can be a number of things. I have had the exact same problem. The high pitched whine or moan is the retarded hydraulic fan (this type of fan was discontinued in 2003). Under normal operating conditions however the fan shouldn't be noticed. I replaced my thermostat (fixed for 2 weeks) flushed the coolant (fixed for about 2 weeks). Bled the coolant system (yes the system must be bled or it will get dry locked) Again the problem would not go away only momentarily. In the end something as stupid as a tube falling off in the Degas Bottle caused the countless overheating problems. Believe it or not it was a mistake I discovered the tube issue. After bleeding my system for the twentieth time the bleeder screw fell into the degas bottle. Took it out and noticed what was air in my system. I jerry rigged a tube in there and it seems to work fine.The Bottle will run you about $160 if this your problem and you don't feel like being cheap. I love this car however if i didn't have the know how to fix it it would have bankrupt me. Good luck to you... take care ;)
  • heatprobheatprob Posts: 1
    I just had my transmission replaced on a 2002 LS V8. The mechanic took it for a drive after the tranny installed. Noticed the car was running hot. Checked the engine and transmission: both hot. He looked up in his online info and found that there is an after maket radiator upgrade. $500.00 to have that done.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    I hope he's right but I've been following these cars since they came out in 1999, owned one for 6 years and I've never heard of a radiator needing to be replaced. I'd bet it was either the fan, the thermostat or just an air bubble in the coolant.
  • What is the answer to #6 problem?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    Air in the system, bad temp sensor, failed cooling fan, failed thermostat.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    Where is the cooling system bleed screw located and how do you bleed thew system? Engine running cold or hot? Thanks.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    Don't remember for sure but it's somewhere near the top of the engine - at the highest point. May be in one of the heater hoses. This will cause an air bubble full of steam that periodically passes by the temp sensor which causes it to think it's running hot. The steam is under pressure and is hotter than 212F. I don't remember the bleed procedure.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    Thanks for the reply. I located it but I guess I'll keep looking for the correct procedure to bleed the system.
  • I am trying to find out if I am having similar problems and want to see if draining, flushing and adding new coolant fixes this.

    Can someone specifically say where the Lincoln LS's drain plug is for the radiator? And where is the radiator in the engine?

    thank you.
  • BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM

    Here is the procedure from the factory service manual:

    1. Remove the engine fill cap.
    On 3.0L engines
    2. Open the engine air bleed.
    On all engines
    3. Open the heater air bleed.
    4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
    On 3.0L engines
    5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
    On all engines
    6. Replace the degas bottle cap.
    On 3.9L engines
    CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become
    contaminated with engine coolant.
    7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
    8. Replace the engine fill cap.
    On all engines
    9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
    Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
    10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
    11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the
    cold fill MAX mark.
    12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
    On 3.9L engines
    13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
    14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
    On 3.0L engines
    15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
    16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
    On all engines
    17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F ) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
    18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
    19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX
    mark.
  • I just recently had to refill the coolant system (had to replace the infamously crappy degas bottle) and still can't get heat at idle. I get heat when revving the engine up to 2000 rpms during the bleeding procedure you posted, but once it goes back down to idle I get nothing. Note how the directions say "check to see if you get heat at idle" but do not say what to do if you don't. I assumed I'd just need to go through the motions again, and did x 3, but still no heat at idle or during normal operating conditions. Sounds like low coolant, but after running it and letting it cool x 2, the degas bottle is at the right level. Sounds like air in the system too, but what else can I do to bleed it? Thanks,
  • gghhjjgghhjj Posts: 1
    Radiator problem is more than possible... There is an inside leak. The engine coolant goes in the transmission fluid when pressure builds up. No appearant leak, but look at the transmission fluid (you can look at it by the tiny reservoir at the passenger side of the engine. just remove the screen to take a sample). Orange and cloudy? You found your problem. Change rad, flush trany fluid completly.
  • I have had my 2000 LS since new and have had overheating problems the last few years. I took it to every dealership in town and they would all say something different. Finally, a friend of mine that owns a repair shop said let's put an electric fan in it and since then, I have not had a problem. He used a jeep electric fan that fits perfect and disengaged the factory fan from hydraulic system. You can still see the pump turn but not connected to anything. Funny how ford only used this stupid system for a few years and changed over to an electric system. Mechanic used an empty slot in fuse box to give power to fan and fan only draws 1.2 volts. Fan runs entire time key is on or motor running. He also put a new thermostat in and what a difference car has been. The fix cost me 403.00 dollars fan was $203.00. I have been throwing money at this car for 2 years trying to fix problem changing solenoids, sensors, pump, caps, overflow bottle and all it needed was electric fan! need details email me lvs24@aol.com i will tell you exactly how to do it. goodluck!
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    The hydraulic fan was required on the early models due to a lack of available power. The fixed it in 2003. It's probably fine on yours - the mfr has to account for every possible device being on simultaneously and they have design specs to meet because of that. I would be careful about running the lights, defroster, stereo and seat heaters at the same time though.
  • my 2000 lincoln ls v6 overheats with air condition running. the problem is the hydralic fan pump, it suppose to turn faster when a/c is on or car temp goes up and it fails. the solution is the electric actuator on the side of the pump is bad its job is to control the amount of fliud. it cost $91.00 and you will not need to remove the pump.
    1) buy the actuator
    2) buy a t-40 torque star male socket
    3) remove the only cable attached to the pump
    4) remove bolts from pump reservior and push to side
    5) remove bottom fliud hose from reservior (you will need a form cup to catch fluid in pump)
    6) now you have access to actuator with rachet and male star socket
    7) loosen the actuator (the middle only turns)
    8) screw in the new one and tighten
    10 reinstall electric cable and pump hose and rebolt pump reservior
    lincoln will run without running hot. caution filling the degas bottle with water may not fill the engine block, you may have to remove any large engine hose and run water directly into engine as well as degas bottle.
  • I have a 2000 lincoln ls V8 that is overheating. My AC was blowing very hot air then all of a sudden I had a overheating problem. I pulled over cause white smoke was coming out of the hood and Engine coolant spilled all over the ground. There was a hose that was blown off towards the front. I got some engine coolant and filled it back up and drove it to a nearby Autozone. They said it was the thermostat. I bought a thermostat and replaced it, worked for about 3-5 minutes then when I got on the highway going 50-60, it got overheated again. this time no spill, just a burning smell towards the back of the engine with a little white smoke coming out. AC also does not blow hot air anymore. Any suggestions?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    My guess is it's the serpentine belt. That belt drives both the a/c compressor and the water pump IIRC. If it came off then that could have knocked off the coolant hose also. Without it you won't get any cold air and the engine will overheat quickly. You should also get a check charging system light and eventually a dead battery since the alternator won't work either. Easy enough to check.
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