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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

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  • I checked the serpentine belt (Visually). It seemed to be working fine. After turning the car on and off to allow it to overheat, then looking and listening to what the car is doing, I saw a hose with a small little crack, nothing too major, it did have some coolant liquid leaking from it. When I turn the car off I can hear a hissing sound in the engine. I also can see and hear coolant boiling and level rising in the reservoir tank when the car is turned off also. I also saw and heard a large amount of coolant from the reservoir tank be distributed throughout the engine after I turned the car off. Any ideas after reading that? Thanks in advance.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    Is that a trick question? Fix the leaky hose and refill it with the proper antifreeze mixture and make sure you bleed out all the air. The A/C problem might be unrelated. If the radiator fan is working and it's full of coolant and you've replaced the thermostat correctly and it still overheats then it might be the water pump.
  • leelee24leelee24 Posts: 2
    hi i just bought a 2000 lincoln ls i havent had it 2 months and its over heating. When i bought the car it over heated the next day, i took back to them to fix the problem they told me it could of been a couple different things. so they came to the conclusion that it was the hydraulic hose. So i got my car back drove it for about 2 weeks and then it started overheating again. I let i run to c if how long it takes to get hot. Also see a little leak i think its the same hose that they call they self replacein so if they did replace it correctly what would cause it to go bad that quickly???? Can anyone help me out with this over heating problem PLEASE?????? Reply back on here or my email jtrisch@yahoo.com thanks
  • leelee24leelee24 Posts: 2
    Hi can you tell me where you went to get your problem resolved. I might need to go see them asap. tired of ppl giving me the run around
  • Car overheated and i replaced the thermostat. I bled the coolant system by opening the reservoir cap and running the car with the heat on high for an hour. Now all of the sudden it is spitting out coolant from the overflow in the reservoir but the car isn't overheating when i drive it. Did i do something wrong when bleeding it? Any infor would be appreciated

    jules
  • forozcoforozco Posts: 2
    I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO DISENGAGE THE HYDRAULIC COLLING FAN SYSTEM? I WANT TO RUN AN ELECTRIC FAN SO I CAN DO AWAY WITH ALL THE OVERHEATING PROBLEMS. ANY INPUT WOULD BE APPRCIATED.
  • forozcoforozco Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 02 LINCOLN LS WITH THE V8 ENGINE IS THE ACTUATOR ON THE PUMP UNDERNEATH THE RESERVIOR? ANY INFO WOULD BE A A BIG HELP OR ALSO SHOOT ME AN EMAIL AT BIG_BOY_956@YAHOO.COM THANKS
  • arejonarejon Posts: 2
    Hi johnny61:
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with the same problem. Where can I buy the electric actuator?
    A lot of people tell me to get rid of that hydrauli system and make the fans electric, What do you think?
  • arejonarejon Posts: 2
    Hi johnny61:
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with the same problem. Where can I buy the electric actuator?
    A lot of people tell me to get rid of that hydrauli system and make the fans electric, What do you think?
  • Hi guys I have read all your post, had the same problem , this is my 100% working solution:
    possible problem #1 refill with cooling fluid, fill first from the top tube over the thermostat (the one with the Allen wrench on the cap), fill the fluid reservoir let it run fr five minutes refill both again if needed.
    Problem#2 Bad Hydraulic fan:
    remove fan from car, replace with a high speed fan, I used a 1991 ford topaz electric fan with an ice cube 40 amp relay connected to an ignition fuse(eat dirt Lincoln engineering) install a connecting tube between the two hydraulic fan pump lines
    Problem #3 Bad Hydraulic fan pump:
    same steps as problem #2 but remove hydraulic pump and replace lower pulley with an alternator pulley, replace serpentine belt with a 114 inch belt (smaller than stock)
    it works for me and best of all runs a few degrees cooler than stock
  • I want to replace my hydraulic system with an electric. Can you tell me how its done. cornelius.marshall2@soc.mil

    (2000 lincoln LS) Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric. cornelius.marshall2@soc.mil
  • 200 Lincoln LS. Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric fan. I can't see to figure out exactly whats wrong with me cool system.
  • I have this same problem and want to resolve it the same way you did. I have see many after market electric cooling fans for the ls and wonder if you knew the best on that would work. Also I need detailed instructions on how to replace and wire up the electric fan. Please help I am tired of constantly having to worry about the car not running right and it is a very nice car and would like to keep it if possible
  • wallyrswallyrs Posts: 1
    Have 2001 Lincoln LS I'm having the same problem. After bleeding & filling the reservoir I have change the reservoir once before this is my second. Had a crack on the bottom of the tank. Is there something I'm missing. I think when I turn on the A/C it doesn't hold the Pressure and it cracks. need help send me email

    wallyrs12@yahoo.com
  • I have a Lincoln ls v6 2001 with 115000 miles. Heres whats going on with my car.

    The check engine light is on.
    the air bag light lights up flashes a couple of times and then stays on.
    Then the oil light comes up when the car is on the regular temperature, whenever im slowing down the oil light comes up, then when i accelerate it goes away.

    Then it has been overheating sometimes. last sunday overheated, week before that too, then today tuesday did it again. On sunday i left it cooling for a couple of hours then it was normal, the fans work but when it overheates the fans arent working.

    Could this all be because of the oil pressure that is too low
    ' if so how can i fix it? any tips on this would be appreciate it
    Thanks
  • Is the check engine light flashing, or solid? You've got a v-6? Pull the OBD code.

    The air bag light is likely a bad clock spring (behind the steering wheel). When you unplug a component of the air bag system, it trips the light to tell you to recalibrate it, which is a simple process done with a computer at the dealer (about $90). But if you haven't unplugged any component, it is likely a worn connection in the clock spring. The clock spring powers up everything in your steering wheel, including your air bag, while still enabling you to turn the wheel round and round (if they just rans wires, the wires would twist and break). If there is a bad connection, its the equivalent of unplugging the steering wheel air bag every time you turn the vehicle. So if you just get the system recalibrated, it'll trip the light again leaving the dealer's lot. There is no code to identify this problem. Anything else not working on your steering wheel (cruise control? radio control? horn?)? If so, it's defintiely the clock spring. They're about $80 and you need a wheel puller, but it's a simple job. Ford/Lincoln/Mercuries are famous for weak clock springs.

    See my prior post regarding my experience with the overheating. The degas bottle (overflow tank) has a design flaw that cause a crack along a seam, which lets air into the system and causes antifreeze to leak out at higher RPMS (when you're on the highway and won't notice). Air acts as a blockage and causes overheating. Others have cursed the hydraulic fans as constantly failing/inconsistent, and replaced them with electric ones. I haven't had that issue. A new degas bottle and a system fill/air purge and I've been fine for another 20k so far. The degas bottle is pulled through the driver's side wheel well (remove the wheel and wheelwell cover). Check it for visible signs of cracking. If not, you've likely got the fan problem.

    The oil issue-potentially very serious. Assuming you're sure your oil is full, the correct viscosity and fresh, I'd replace the oil pressure switch (likely near the oil filter housing) first. It's relatively cheap and always a good one to keep fresh. If the problem recurs, your oil pump could be failing. That could increase friction and contribute to an overheating problem, but with a failing oil pump, overheating would be the least of your worries.
  • yeah the check engine light is solid, which could be a sensor or anything, im pulling the code later today or tomorrow.

    The problem i have with the fan is that it stops working all of the sudden, and i cant get it to start, even with the a/c on, but then how come sometimes i turn on my car and the stupid fan is working right? Everytime the car randomly decides to overheat i check the fan and the fan has stopped.

    Well i took it to a mechanic and he had told me that the oil presure was low, but he didnt do any computer test or anything, and the guy before that one told me a need the whole cooling system new ( which he was wrong since my cooling system works but something is messing with the reaction of it)

    for the oil, i used a bottle of Lucas today which helps with the lubrication of the oil and see if it goes away. I will be getting it check by another person see what they say.
  • well today unpluged the fan , theres a connection down there hiding by the pump and put it back and magically the fans are working perfectly and even the oil light disappeared. For now its working perfectly idk if maybe the connection there was dirty or something
  • For a few months now, I've had an issue with the car overheating. I've never seen smoke or anything, but every now and again, the temp gauge will go to "H". Normally, if I set it on cruise control, it'll eventually go back down. In the event I'm in stop-and-go traffic, it will reduce engine pressure. At that time, I'll pull over, turn the car off for a few minutes, then restart. It'll be fine for the rest of the trip. I finally had it hooked up to the code reader and got the following codes - P0053 (Heat & Oxygen Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1), P0153 (Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1), P1299 (Society of Automotive Engineers Engine Over Temp Condition), and P1295 (Oxygen Sensor Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1). I was told I needed to replace the two oxygen sensors up front.

    So, when I took my vehicle to Pep Boys for brake service today, I told them I also wanted the sensors replaced, if they had them in stock. They ran the diagnostic and now the guy is telling me that CO2 was detected in the cooling system and I need to have my head gaskets replaced. He then said it would be upwards of $2500 to fix and referred me to the Lincoln dealer. Is this accurate?
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