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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

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  • nickrlnickrl Posts: 9
    again thank you... your the man for answering everyone and being helpful... my hcf motor is still under warranty i just found out so into the dealership she goes!!
  • For everyone that is having overheating problems here it is: first what you need to do is when it is overheating pull over(don't shut-off engine) and check if the fan is blowing air not just a little but a lot. If you don't feel air blowing the fan is not engaging on high. There is an actuator on these hydraulic cooling fan systems. The acuator is on the back of the pump on the passenger side. The acuator will tell the pump how much fluid to let go and make the fan spin at low, mid, or high. Now if the fan is blowing then you have air in the cooling system. If there is air in the cooling system the coolant in the degas bottle will act like it is boiling. You have to follow the procedure to bleed the air out but if the degas bottle is cracked, the cap is no good or if any hose are leaking or the plastic T on the upper hose is cracked it will keep getting air back in. Ok, now with the engine off try to spin the fan by hand. If it does the fan motor should be working. Also, if the hydraulic hose from the fan motor was removed to take the water pump off you may have got air in the hydraulic fan system causing the fan to not spin properly. Now you have to get the air out of the hydraulic system. So, if you have changed water pumps, thermostats, degas bottles and no luck you have air in the system(both) and if the fan is not working more likely it is the acuator. It may be the hydraulic pump or fan motor. I'm not a certified mechanic but I've been working on cars since I was 16 about half my life now and I also have 2001 Lincoln Ls. Let me know if what I said helped or you need me to explain further on one of the subjects more.
  • Hi thanks for the advice but I was wondering how do I bleed the hydraulic pump? My dad is actually coming over to do thistomorrow and i really hope it works out for me if you can get back to me asap on how or were i find out.

    Thanks Christina
  • christina, i'm currently having that issue right now. I called the dealership and they can take it out for like 90 bucks. I also spoke to a mechanic and he said people have got another cap drilled a hole on top tapped it and put some kind of valve you can open after the car runs for a few minutes. This suppose to let the air out. I asked him how to they do it and he didn't want to tell me. They probably have a machine or something. I have tried a few other things that made it work but it stopped working again. I disconnected the return, plugged the nipple to the bottom of the reservoir and put the hose in a empty trans. fluid bottle. I then asked someone to turn the car on and watch the fluid go down in the reservoir(not too low and only a few sec.) then turn the car off and refilled the reservoir.Repeated about 5-6 times. This helped but just for a little while. Its probably is something else. Going to take the acuator off and test the resistance to see if it is working like it should before i buy one. If I can't get it working again, I'm just converting it to electric. Wanted to keep it the way it was.
  • The only time it should get hot is idling or stopped. When you are moving at high speed on the highway the airflow through the radiator is enough to cool the engine. The electric fan will only kick in at low speeds or stopped for any lenght of time.
    My problem is the LS V8 I have is overheating all the time. Although the engine is getting hot, the hoses are not getting hot. This makes me believe its either the thermostat or water pump. The fan seems to be working really fast with lots of airflow, but the engine is still overheating
    It was fine untill yesterday afternoon, and now it overheats whenever I start it.
    Any suggestions gladly accepted
  • jiminy2jiminy2 Posts: 3
    Hi read your post on the actuator is there a way to test this? And is this what the part is referred to at the store or is there a part #? My fan is not increasing speed as it heats up hoping it's this. Thanks so much for your directions.
  • Jiminy2, don't know how many ohms it should put out with a meter but if you find out let me know. The part # XW4Z3783CA. Easy to replace. Drain fluid from reservoir or suction out. Remove reservoir and hoses out of the way. Then you see wiring coming from back of pump that is the actuator. Use a torque think a T-40 to remove actuator. Fluid will come out. Replace put back together.
  • jiminy2jiminy2 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. Did it work on your car?
  • Please does anyone know how to bleed the hydraulic pump?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,668
    Pretty sure you just move the steering wheel back and forth.
  • I have an 02 Lincoln is and its overheating when i turn the ac on. I've seen a lot of people have had this issue b4. I took it to my mechanic and changed a pipe that was cracked and have the the system bleed of air . However, the car still overheats even though the AC is off. I have noticed usually, when I am on my third trip while doing errands the tempature gauge indicated that it is overheating. I turn the car off and restart so that the temp gauge falls back down. has anyone ever gotten this prob fixed. if so pls let me know cause its frustrating to me. my mechanic doesnt know why it still heats up. He states that pressure is checked and there is no air in the system. The radiator is fine no problems with coolant or leaks. The check engine light engaged once before it was serviced. Car continues to overheat without check engine light. He did mention that the Hydraulic fan code came up on the diagnostic but does not know the specifics and instructed me to visit a Lincoln dealership to verify the problem. At this point I am wondering if anyone can let me know if they had this problem and if so what was the problem and what was the remedy. I wonder if anyone has successfully completed this issue. Thanks ahead of time.
  • nickrlnickrl Posts: 9
    Here's what i did man... got on racingjunk.com and bought a 16 inch fan that pushes 2700 cumulative and hacked thus fan out of the originol housing and rigged the new one in. It cost 30 bucks. Sprayfoamed the gaps round the shroud and bought a fan controller from autozone. Works great. Thus hydraulic pump needs to be bypassed. I just ran it back into itself with a coupler and clamps. Since its not hooked to the motor it shouldn't build pressure so nothing special is really needed concerning the pump. If so inclined you could take it out,but I didn't. In the future maybe. Anyways dealership told me 2100 to fix fan and pump and I got this done in a day for under 150 bucks and it works great. I know nothing bout cars really and still did this without any real hassle. I highly recommend it.
  • travist2travist2 Posts: 3
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2001 LS, just recently did some repairs on it so could pass smog. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and PCV elbow under the intake manifold. Then it overheated at smog station,so went home and changed out the thermostat,drove it about 50 miles without a problem,cooling fan was working. It passed smog, (yea). On the way to DMV it started to overheat,coolant was boiling and leaking out,opened the hood and hydraulic fluid was overflowing from hydraulic fan resevoir and fan was not working. Anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be? Please help, thanks.
  • jiminy2jiminy2 Posts: 3
    The Actuator did the trick, Thanks for the advice!
  • Did ur check engine light came on?
  • nickrlnickrl Posts: 9
    edited August 2011
    check engine light never came on when it was overheating... After the fix yes it came on after driving around. I figured something was jacked up so I pulled the battery cables off to let the ecm reset and it hasnt come back on since and its been about a month. Ive read that theres no sensors dealing with the fan that report back to the ecm so it shouldnt bother it any or make it kick out codes. My car was doing exactly as yours was... The third trip to everheat... If you dont just switch it over to electric you have a huge headache on your hands. I had it at three different mechanics and a dealership and it wont get fixed until you just get rid of the damn hydraulic fan. My fan had been replaced 3x and the pump twice all in 18 months before I Did the electric conversion. As i said before ... Im not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I can wire up a car stereo like its nobodys business but I was able to do this all by myself in a day (actually more like two, but thats because of work).
  • Lol thanks I am gonna convert it to an electric fan this sat I hope or sumtime next week. Im lazy to do it myself so ima ask my mechanic to do it lol. Also I need to find a good one with a harnest kit.
  • How Can you figure out if the hydraulic fan is bad in my 2001 Lincoln LS ?????
  • Was wondering if you had a part number of the electric fan you used in place of the hydraulic one??
  • Hi.

    My lincoln suddenly today started to overheat. It's never done this before.
    It's currently at over 180,000 so you know it's that time. I need the car to last me for now, however. While I was driving about 35 mph the car started to whine subtly and the temperature gauge went from middle of the dial to the very end of the hot scale in less than a second. I checked the fluids and everything is fine. I took it to a car parts place and had them run diagnostics and it came back P1299 but he wasn't sure if he knew what he was doing (he even needed help to find the port to run the test). The most important thing is that the car does not run hot while idling or stopped. It only starts this after the car has been running over five minutes and then only when the engine goes over 2000 rpm. Suggestions?
  • HappsterHappster Posts: 30
    P1299 means cylinder head overtemperature protection active. The Lincolns have a feature that will shut the engine down at a certain point to prevent severe damage. It means stop driving it! As for the cause, the whining makes me suspect your water pump. The belt will squeal if the pump is seized or sqirrely. Otherwise, the common cause is air in the system, the degas bottle issue (see my more detailed post) or the hydraulic fan flaws.
  • How did u connect the electric fan to work on the car? Im having probe on that part
  • zetozeto Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I live in Mozambique and imported an 00 Lincoln LS V8, and is about 43000km. I think the reason that caused the seller to sell the car was warming. When I tested the car, it started to heat up and boil, then I took it to the mechanic. The mechanic bled the radiator, and the problem appeared to be resolved. I made a trip of about 1200km and the car behaved well. next day started to heat up again. Right now I'm in a situation where the car warms up and back to normal by itself. Today the car warmed up to the red and the check engine light turned on, and I stopped the car. When I turn it on after cooling, the temperature rose again to the peak. What could be, someone help me please. Is there any possibility of having burned the head gasket?
  • nickrlnickrl Posts: 9
    Autozone sells a electric fan controller. Its a wiring harness that has a temp probe u slide into the fins of the radiater that completes the electric circuit to turn the fan on at desired temp. The harness then has wires for ground, battery, fuse box ( I used the #6 slot, granny solenoid fuse) and so on. The harness should have come with directions.
  • how does this work in cold weather
  • Don't know for sure yet... this was just done a lil more than a month ago. Don't see why that would make a difference. The only concern should be ur car taken longer to warm up so the heater would take longer... but with an electric harness kit with a temp probe or something similar the car will reach 160 degrees before turning on so that shouldn't be an issue either.
  • Did you ever get a part number for the electric fan? I am going to have to have the same convrsion done to my 02 Lincoln LS. All I can see so far is that it is a 16 inch fan????
  • If ur on kmjent.com or racingjunk.com it is a 16" fan that pushes 2700cfm. I don't have a part number but it should only be like 30 bucks.
  • Thanks, I will check out those web sites. thanks again.
  • Here is an inexpensive and REAL fix for your LS overheat problem if it is intemittant. If something is really broke, this won't work. To the fix!
    When was the last time you changed the fluid in the hydraulic fan system, never, I thought so. Me either.
    I have a 2000 LS that I bought new and do all of my own maintenance therefore know exactly what has been done. I checked the fan fluid from time time not thinking that it may go bad over time. Well it does get contaminated.
    My LS has about 150k on it and it started having an overheat problem. I'm in AZ and the average daily ambient temp has been around 102. Yes, I use the A/C. I read all of these blogs about replace this and that even go electric. I gave it some thought and since it is intermittant, it has something to do with what controls the speed of the fan since all fluid levels were fine but the fan speed was slow when it was over heating but fast at other times. I thought since I had never changed the fan fluid, check that. The fluid was like muddy water with a little pink. So I bought a quart of "High Mileage" Castrol ATF. The owners manual wants Mercon. Castrol "High Mileage" ATF is compatible. So take out the screen in the reservior and suck out as much of the old ATF as possible. Fill the reservoir to "max". Drive a few miles. Do this four times, the thing only takes about a half pint so you can do it four times on a quart. The new fluid with it's detergents cleans up the actuator and all is good for $ 5.85 plus your time. My time is a lot cheaper than a mechanic or dealer, and this works. All of you people who replaced all kinds of stuff or took it to a mechanic or dealer out of warranty should be kicking yourself. You know who you are.
    Dealers love this stuff, even if it is in warranty, Ford pays them megabucks for a six dollar fix.
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