Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
gonna get this thing cause i know its some matter of resetting systems, clearing codes, purgeing coolant circuit and getting it all in the correct order to satisfy every possible senario. i do know this system is a piece of crap but i think it is possible to master it. the car is to nice to scrap, yet!!
Please responed or e-mail me at [email protected]..
In short, you need to start with the car completely cool, remove the cooling system cap, warm the engine until the t'stat opens, shut the car down and let it cool with the cap off, then repeat the warm-up, cool down several more times, untill there are NO air bubbles visible.
Please help.
When I start driving the car, the temperature gauge reaches the mid point pretty quick -- within about 2 minutes -- whether it is a hot day or cool night. It will stay at the mid point anywhere from 15 minutes to 45 minutes, but then the temp. gauge quickly rises and the coolant begins to bubble violently in the tank. If I don’t shut the car off immediately and I let it keep overheating, the coolant will leak out of the top of the cap until it’s all over the ground. If I shut it off immediately, it takes a while to cool back down. It goes without saying that I often smell burning coolant even when it’s not overheating.
Things I HAVE TO DO - (goes maybe 45 minutes without overheating):
-Turn the HEAT on high (no A/C)
-Drive it with the hood popped open.
-Try to drive it at night when it’s cooler outside.
Things I CAN’T DO - (goes only 15 minutes without overheating):
-Turn on the A/C.
-Sit in stop & go traffic.
-Drive it when it’s hot outside... which is hard to do because I live in SOUTH FLORIDA.
Obviously, I pretty much have to keep my travels very close to home.
THINGS I’VE TRIED:
COOLANT TANK has been replaced – there’s no leak in the new tank.
THERMOSTAT has just been replaced.
The ‘bleed cap’ has been removed once to let air out, but didn’t seem to make a difference.
What’s next?
Thanks!
[email protected]
The other possibility is the hydraulic fan.
The knock worries me, but you also have knock sensors. Pull the codes with and OBD Diagnostictool and tell me what it says.
Rebuild is pricey unless you know what the fak you're doing.
turned out it was the hydraulic fan pump, After being pimped by Raceway Ford dealership in Moreno Valley CA,after the replaced the entire cooling system the manager tells me the computer said that the hydraulic pump was the first thing they should have checked. The overheating has stopped
but when they finished the heater no longer worked,but I will never take my car back there for any work or purchase of a car,and to tired to file a complaint. good luck
You can do it yourself with rubber tubing and 2 clean 5 gallon buckets - just make sure you keep fresh fluid in the intake bucket and run the car to get the pump going.
You can drop the pan and change the fluid that way but you'll only get a fraction of the old fluid out. Not recommended.
about $600 dealer part. I changed the fan twice before they figured out the problem.
Any solutions for the Advance Trac message on the dash and the illuminated (always on) skid mark light? I went to Lincoln in Palm Springs and they said the ABS/Traction Control Module needs replaced as there was a fault code C1286, Booster Mechanical Failure.
This part retails for $1,100 at Ford plus there a recalibration procedure needed once replaced.
I heard there are places that rebuild your own module thus, no recalibration necessary. Heard of this or another repair avenue to solve? As far as I can tell, the ABS still works, as does the advance trac as I've felt it work in the rain. Not sure if it's 100% correct but seems to work.
Replace the clock spring and watch all the false abs warning lights disappear for good (once recalibrated at the dealer for $90). See my prior post for details.
Didn't have any prob with the traction control. Don't think it runs through the steering wheel (unless your switch is on your wheel). Start with the easy stuff - test (or replace) the switch. If that's good, check your tires for wear. It works by counting the rotations and when one tire spins more rotations than the others over the same distance, it senses a spin condition and kicks in. An undersized tire (by size or extreme wear) will mimick that process because a smaller wheel takes more turns to travel the same distance. The next cheapest fix would be cleaning and testing the sensors (on the hubs). Only then would I suspect the brain. If the cheaper fixes work, your last task is to get a new mechanic, because he's porking you if he's jumping right to the most expensive part.
Also, there's something to be said for leaving well enough alone. if it seems to be working, in your state does not fail a vehicle because the traction control light is on, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I find that a small piece of black electrical tape over the indicator light works well.
The clock spring seems to be the best value to fix for now since all the steering wheel buttons and radio dash lights including the radio stay on feature when you turn off the key and leave the doors shut will all come back to function normally.