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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

124

Comments

  • sato1972sato1972 Member Posts: 2
    i got a mechanic that install a bunch of parts to see if the car stop overheating and in the end i burn the engine,then i take it to another mechanic to re-build the engine and hi find out that the cause of the overheating was a clog heatercore.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    That doesn't sound right. A clogged heater core would prevent the heat from working, but alone, should not cause the car to overheat. It's a loop at the top of the system, sort of like a cul-de-sac is to street. Coolant still flows normally without it. Granted, it does serve to further cool your engine when the heat is on full blast, because it's alike a second miniature radiator. That's why they tell you to blast your heat when you're overheating. But alone it won't cause overheating. Sounds like you're getting bad advice for the second time. (A good mechanic doesn't just start replacing parts willy-nilly.) I'm also suspicious that the mechanic said you needed a new motor. The LS has a fail safe that shuts the system down at critical temperature spikes. A mechanic told my buddy the same thing and it was a $120 collant reservoir. I think you're gettin played bro.
  • scooterupscooterup Member Posts: 2
    has not been over midway on temp guage since i did the bypass. have had to replace the water pump a month later. still tends to loose some coolant occationally so i still check coolant level daily but yes the car has not over temped at all since the bypass.
    gonna get this thing cause i know its some matter of resetting systems, clearing codes, purgeing coolant circuit and getting it all in the correct order to satisfy every possible senario. i do know this system is a piece of crap but i think it is possible to master it. the car is to nice to scrap, yet!!
  • sato1972sato1972 Member Posts: 2
    I got the same problem and the mechanic change the water pump.termostast,radiator,and like 2 sensors and in the end it was the heater core that was block
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    edited March 2012
    You need a new mechanic. The first thing you do is check the temp of each heater hose. If the outlet is colder than the inlet line, then it's blocked.
  • monchomoncho Member Posts: 1
    kracker can u please help me i got a 2001 lincoln ls. i got a overheat problem i turn the car on and the fan stars working slow with low temp and then went midium temp and fan stars midium then the temp went to three quarers and just turn off the engine.where is the scruee bleeding. or what did u recomend me thank u.
  • fairieluv27fairieluv27 Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 LS is getting on my last nerve with its overheating problems. Im at my breaking point. I just got the car 3 months ago and after a couple of weeks went by it started to overheat, now it would not overheat every time, only some of the time. I drove it on a 3 hr trip and it redlined and would not stop overheating. We had it towed to a mechanic that replaced the thermo and housing and bled and purged her 6 times. Finally my LS would run for awhile without overheating fast. We were able to drive it the 1 hr and half to get home after 400 dollars later at the mechanic :( It did not run hot at all till we came into town off the interstate and the needle started to rise but didn't overheat. about a week later it started redlining again. We took it to a mechanic here in town that works on luxury style vehicles and it baffled him. The mechanic we just went to a week prior said he thought it was the radiator and the one here in town said that it was possible but he didn't think so. :cry: He had me talk to a friend of his that was a service writer for Lincoln, I did. He told me to hv the mechanic blow all the dirt dust and trash off the front of the radiator w a compressor and see if that helps. WE DID THAT TOO! My car worked like a dream for a little over a month. THEN, back to redlining again. I'm desperate for answers without getting charged thousands of dollars for a mechanic to pull out and fix till he finds the issue...Please if anyone has any knowledge on these cars I could use it. Thanks :sick:
  • fairieluv27fairieluv27 Member Posts: 2
    hey Jimmyc4 , I am so praying that this works. The mechanic did do like a pressure test on the fan res. and thats when it stopped overheating. maybe it does just need this. thanks so much for posting. :blush:
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    See my past posts in this string about the degas bottle issue. Could be letting air into your system and creating periodic blockages. Air pockets act like obstructions. The fans are also famously flawed. Many switch from hydraulic to electric to correct the issue. If it was your radiator, thermostat, water pump, etc., the problem would be consistent. I'd stop throwing money at those things (and dump the mechanics that told you to).
  • laglennlaglenn Member Posts: 7
    Hi This is Glenn do you know what needs to happen and how I could get an electric fan for my 2002 lincoln lse

    Please responed or e-mail me at [email protected]..
  • nibblehernibbleher Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know what Ford Vehical has an Electric cooling Fan that will fit into My Lincoln LS?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    edited May 2012
    I know that this is an OLD discussion, and it's been several years since I've owned an LS, but let me throw this out there for you current LS owners. There are two things that have to be looked at carefully. As "fairieluv27" has already mentioned, the radiator and A/C condensor have to be kept clear of leaves and dirt. Secondly, the cooling system of the LS, especially the V-8s, have a number of short hoses connecting this and that, snaking all over the engine. As such, it's very easy for air pockets to develop, and this will wreak havoc with an LS. It's ESSENTIAL that all the air be purged from the cooling system, or the car WILL overheat.

    In short, you need to start with the car completely cool, remove the cooling system cap, warm the engine until the t'stat opens, shut the car down and let it cool with the cap off, then repeat the warm-up, cool down several more times, untill there are NO air bubbles visible.
  • viperacr01viperacr01 Member Posts: 1
    Owned a 2001 ls for two years. 140k. Got in it and went up town and with ac on it overheated. First time ever for me. Did it next day at home at idle with ac on. Also would not blow cold air until you drove it down road. Took a air hose blew out the condenser and radiator and all kinds of dirt came out. Started car and had immediate cold air. I let it idle for one hour with fan on high and it did not overheat. Only took 5 min the day before for the fan to kick on like a airplane sound and overheat. So this might work for someone else. Always try the easy possibilities first and go from there. If your car not blowing cold air till you drive it a couple min there's a chance the fins are clogged and fan can't push air thru it. Good luck!
  • fraylsfrayls Member Posts: 1
    My Lincoln Ls V8 recently started over heating. Mostly on a hot day and on a daily trip to the store about 10 miles away. It will mark at half way temperature on the way there and on the way back it will pass the middle mark. I drove it a bit more and it overheated on me. It leaked antifreeze and I could smell burt coolant. I had my mechanic change the thermostat and it helped a bit but it would still sit in the middle mark. Drove it on a hot day and it over heated on me again. :sick: This is driving me crazy. Why does it go to middle temperature so fast? Is the fan not working? Someone please help.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Could be the fan - let it idle and check it in the driveway. Are you sure it's not just low on coolant? Have you replaced the reservoir - it's known to crack and leak. And if they didn't get the air out when they replaced the thermostat you could have an air bubble. You have to bleed out the air using the special bleed valve - it's somewhere near the top of the engine.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Check the Degas bottle for cracks. See my posts on this string. Causes coolant to leak at high RPMs and causes it to suck air into the system as it cools. Thermostat swap probably worked for a while because they bled it, but the problem will recur if the bottle is cracked. It won't leak at idle in your driveway, so it's hard to detect. Pull it out and check the seams. Chronic issue in LSs.
  • trofsytrofsy Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V8 with 125k miles.

    Please help.

    When I start driving the car, the temperature gauge reaches the mid point pretty quick -- within about 2 minutes -- whether it is a hot day or cool night. It will stay at the mid point anywhere from 15 minutes to 45 minutes, but then the temp. gauge quickly rises and the coolant begins to bubble violently in the tank. If I don’t shut the car off immediately and I let it keep overheating, the coolant will leak out of the top of the cap until it’s all over the ground. If I shut it off immediately, it takes a while to cool back down. It goes without saying that I often smell burning coolant even when it’s not overheating.

    Things I HAVE TO DO - (goes maybe 45 minutes without overheating):
    -Turn the HEAT on high (no A/C)
    -Drive it with the hood popped open.
    -Try to drive it at night when it’s cooler outside.

    Things I CAN’T DO - (goes only 15 minutes without overheating):
    -Turn on the A/C.
    -Sit in stop & go traffic.
    -Drive it when it’s hot outside... which is hard to do because I live in SOUTH FLORIDA.

    Obviously, I pretty much have to keep my travels very close to home.

    THINGS I’VE TRIED:
    COOLANT TANK has been replaced – there’s no leak in the new tank.
    THERMOSTAT has just been replaced.
    The ‘bleed cap’ has been removed once to let air out, but didn’t seem to make a difference.

    What’s next? :/

    Thanks!
  • trofsytrofsy Member Posts: 4
    ***When I try to turn the HEAT on when the car is already overheating, NO HOT AIR comes out.***
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    That would lead me to think the water pump is bad and it's not circulating coolant through the heater core.
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    I'm having overheating issues with my 2000 lincoln ls v8. I've replaced the thermostat twice, radiator has been flushed, degas and radiator cap replaced. It doesn't overheat when its cool out but on hot days it will overheat if I drive too far or too much. I've also noticed if I stare the car it wont overheat right away but when I stop, turn it off let it sit for a couple minutes then start it up and drive it will overheat right away. I have no idea what the issue could be. If I need to use an electric fan where would I get one. I would have an mechanic do the work but I would like to give them some idea. I've taking it to several shops and nobody knows what the issue is. Please help
    [email protected]
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Could be air in the system. Did you bleed it using the special bleed port?

    The other possibility is the hydraulic fan.
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    I don't think it was bled. Nobody could find the bleeder. Well today while I was driving down the road all of a sudden my car dies while I'm driving. It wouldn't start back. The engine would turn over but it wouldn't run. The engine made a loud knocking sound on one side and some smoke came out. I had to get it towed. What does that sound like ?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I hate to say it but it could be a broken timing chain. Hopefully it's something cheaper to fix.
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    Do you know about how much it is for the part and where I can get it. Worse case senerio I might need a new motor where could I get a used one and how much do they run for this vehicle ?? I still owe money on it and it would cost me more to get a new car then trying to fix it and atleast have it run til income tax time
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    It depends on whether it damaged the valves or pistons. It's not a DIY job either way. Try ebay or salvage yards if you end up needing to rebuid it. There's still a chance it's something less serious.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Don't give up yet. These things have sensors that shut the engine down at certainly temperatures. Harmless if that is your issues, but obviouslyfix the overheating issues. The hydraulic fans are heinous in these things, but if your hack couldn'tfind the bleeder, that's likely your issue. These things SUCK to bleed the air out and the air may as well be a ball of cement.

    The knock worries me, but you also have knock sensors. Pull the codes with and OBD Diagnostictool and tell me what it says.

    Rebuild is pricey unless you know what the fak you're doing.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Oh, and the bleeder hose is by your degas (overflow) tank.
  • us_army_75thus_army_75th Member Posts: 2
    :( i have a 2002 Lincoln ls v8 and i have an over heat problem this is what i replace of did so far thermostat, spark plugs, oil, reservoir tank and i breed the cooling system. so what can it be?
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    I read that the hydraulic fan pump go bad on these cars. Maybe yo should have someone check that out or maybe its a bad or clogeed radiator. My car was also overheating but only on hot days. My timing chain went a few days ago I was told that could of been a reason that it was overheating also. I am going to get the timing chain fixed. Does anyone know where I can get a timing chain kit from ????
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    I WAS TOLD MY TIMING CHAIN BROKE. HE'S NOT SURE WHICH ONES OR HOW MANY. MY MECHANIC TOLD ME ITS BEST TO REPLACE ALL FOUR REGARDLESS. IS THAT REALLY NECCESSARY ?? COULD THAT BE WHY IT WAS OVERHEATING ?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Uh-oh. I wish I had been wrong. You might as well replace all of them once the engine is apart. Are you sure there was no damage to the valves or pistons? I thought the AJ V8 was an interference engine which usually results in more damage when the timing chain breaks. Unless the overheating stressed the timing chain it's probably not related so make sure you get that fixed too.
  • ldogg2ldogg2 Member Posts: 4
    After replacing the fan twice,the radiator,degasse bottle and all the hoses,thermostat was fine and a motor to the thermostat
    turned out it was the hydraulic fan pump, After being pimped by Raceway Ford dealership in Moreno Valley CA,after the replaced the entire cooling system the manager tells me the computer said that the hydraulic pump was the first thing they should have checked. The overheating has stopped
    but when they finished the heater no longer worked,but I will never take my car back there for any work or purchase of a car,and to tired to file a complaint. good luck
  • us_army_75thus_army_75th Member Posts: 2
    how to change the transmission fluid on this car your self and how much do you need and what kind? :(
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The dealer uses a machine that takes the old fluid from the outbound cooler line and replaces it with new fluid in the inbound cooler line thereby replacing 95% of the fluid in the entire transmission. This is the recommended method.

    You can do it yourself with rubber tubing and 2 clean 5 gallon buckets - just make sure you keep fresh fluid in the intake bucket and run the car to get the pump going.

    You can drop the pan and change the fluid that way but you'll only get a fraction of the old fluid out. Not recommended.
  • deac1234deac1234 Member Posts: 1
  • forged_mouseforged_mouse Member Posts: 1
    Hi,got hydraulic fan issues,what all is needed to do this swap for an electric fan,Tracy
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    My mechanic replaced my hydraulic fan with an electric fan. I haven't had a overheating problem yet...we'll see what happens during the summer months. Since its been replaced though it makes this weird humming noise. My mechanic said its because the pump is dry since its not being used.. does that sound right ? Timing chain went a couple months ago had that replaced luckily no piston or valve damage. I've been having some issues with my transmission, whenever I put it in reverse it takes a minute to go into gear and then it kicks back really hard. Any idea what could be causing that ?? I had a tranny flush done but that didn't help the issue. Also my ABS and brake lights are on. I know I have a ABS issue cus sometimes when I go to brake the petal pushes back up. Is that fixable and does anyone know how much that part costs ?
  • supaman30supaman30 Member Posts: 1
    julia2178..What kind of electric fan did you purchase. I need to purchase one ad I'm having the same issues.
  • julia2178julia2178 Member Posts: 7
    I bought a universal electric fan nothing special I bought it at autozone.
  • punahelepunahele Member Posts: 1
    2000 lincoln ls 3.9 over heating issue change the hydraulic fan assembly and thermostat cant get the fan to come on. car sits and ideal for 20 mins or so starts over heating fan will not kick on to cool car down. please help any suggestions???????
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    There are plenty of posts on this string explaining the chronic issues with the hydraulic fans. Try swapping to an electric one.
  • ldogg2ldogg2 Member Posts: 4
    The problem for my car when the fan wouldnt come on was the hydraulic fan motor which was
    about $600 dealer part. I changed the fan twice before they figured out the problem.
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    And they suck all around. Buy an electric fan for half the price installed and be done with it.
  • lovinmylincolnlovinmylincoln Member Posts: 2
    I had issues with my LS overheating and after a lot of money spent...found out it was also my reservoir tank as well. I would have to fill up the reservoir tank a couple times of week, which baffled us because it was told that my coolant was burning off somewhere in the engine, which could be tale-tale signs of a blown head gasket (that's what was told to me), my heat also did not blow hot during this time. Well it turned out to be the reservoir cap was not sealing tightly on the reservoir, that was causing the pressure to build up and overheat. The coolant was just leaking from the top of reservoir cap because it wasn't sealed properly. In the end it was a very minor and inexpensive problem but had all the symptoms of a major problem
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    Yup, uninformed mechanics assume that it is leaking internally because there is no signs of external leakage. Problem is that it only leaks out at high RMP, usually when you're on the highway, when the degas bottle is taking the overflow and full. You won't find a puddle on your driveway. Mine leaked out of the seam defect on the degas bottle, but the cap would have the same effect. Then as the engine cools, instead of sucking the coolant back into the engine, it sucks air, causing air blockages in the lines and overheating. Unexplained low coolant, no heat, overheating...all symptoms of blown head gaskets.
  • garthmangarthman Member Posts: 42
    Happster:

    Any solutions for the Advance Trac message on the dash and the illuminated (always on) skid mark light? I went to Lincoln in Palm Springs and they said the ABS/Traction Control Module needs replaced as there was a fault code C1286, Booster Mechanical Failure.

    This part retails for $1,100 at Ford plus there a recalibration procedure needed once replaced.

    I heard there are places that rebuild your own module thus, no recalibration necessary. Heard of this or another repair avenue to solve? As far as I can tell, the ABS still works, as does the advance trac as I've felt it work in the rain. Not sure if it's 100% correct but seems to work.
  • jen0jen0 Member Posts: 10
    Hi- I didn't have that prob. but I just got rid of my 02 LS V8 sport and that car is seriously the WORST CAR EVER BUILT BY FORD! Know for all the "Electronic Failures" my suggestion........as I have learned MANY times with the LS....it could just be the electronics acting up - my "Traction Control" which in New England doesn't do jack light has been stuck on before. Did you try un hooking your battery? Just a shot in the dark but may work. Mine stuck on from time to time sometimes for a few days even then just goes off especially when it was cold out. My LS had 230,000 miles on it - my rear A-frame rotted out - not weldable won't pass inspection and not safe to drive. It had a lot of other issues as well at the time....the god damn check engine light was on AGAIN and the "Check Charging System" has been on for months - replaced battery and altenator ([non-permissible content removed] OF A JOB) and still on!! It's a bad connection we think considering the car sat ALL WINTER LONG and still fires up right away. BOTH my Cats are clogged - due to driving with Cylinder misfires - the 02 should have been recalled on Cylinder misfires - the 03 was - OMG yeah I have had like 5 or 6 of the coils done, spark plugs too. Owned for 6 LONG [non-permissible content removed] PAINFUL YEARS. My suggestion dump this car while you still can I wish I had. I know it's a sweet car -mine which is still sitting in my backyard - prob gonna scrap - black with black leather - sunroof all the bell and whistles. Well good luck to you.
  • totaljetttotaljett Member Posts: 26
    I have a 2000 Ls V6 and traction control light has been off and on for 3 yrs. If I was you I wouldn't sweat it. The cost of fix may not be worth the light staying off. I have 206,000 miles on my Ls and got it 62, 000 miles in 2003. It's been paid for and I would dream of getting rid of it with all the past repairs been made. Getting all my money and sum by keeping it...lol
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    edited July 2013
    Huh, with a little effort, prompt attention to fault lights and know-how, my LS had 250k on it and was in showroom condition when I traded it. It has faults, as all cars do, but they were easily fixed. Let an engine misfire for more than 15 miles and you'll be lucky if all you lose is your cats. Sounds like maintenance failures to me.

    Replace the clock spring and watch all the false abs warning lights disappear for good (once recalibrated at the dealer for $90). See my prior post for details.

    Didn't have any prob with the traction control. Don't think it runs through the steering wheel (unless your switch is on your wheel). Start with the easy stuff - test (or replace) the switch. If that's good, check your tires for wear. It works by counting the rotations and when one tire spins more rotations than the others over the same distance, it senses a spin condition and kicks in. An undersized tire (by size or extreme wear) will mimick that process because a smaller wheel takes more turns to travel the same distance. The next cheapest fix would be cleaning and testing the sensors (on the hubs). Only then would I suspect the brain. If the cheaper fixes work, your last task is to get a new mechanic, because he's porking you if he's jumping right to the most expensive part.

    Also, there's something to be said for leaving well enough alone. if it seems to be working, in your state does not fail a vehicle because the traction control light is on, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I find that a small piece of black electrical tape over the indicator light works well.
  • garthmangarthman Member Posts: 42
    My mechanic says the ABS light will illuminate if the wheel sensors are bad or detect what you explain. The Advance Trac light is unrelated they said. I've disconnected the battery recently as it was time for a new battery so the cables were off for a good half hour. Nothing had changed.

    The clock spring seems to be the best value to fix for now since all the steering wheel buttons and radio dash lights including the radio stay on feature when you turn off the key and leave the doors shut will all come back to function normally.
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