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Dodge Durango

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Comments

  • carlrjrcarlrjr Posts: 35
    Fortunately, chastamae, "low" isn't dangerous. At idle, there is no load on the engine, so the oil flowing at low pressure is more than enough to prevent damage.

    Change the oil and filter and see if that helps.

    As long as the pressure stays within operating range, there's nothing to worry about.

    If the pressure drops below operating range at any temperature for more than several seconds, get professional help.
  • Thanks for the response Carl,

     

    I understand the fact that low isn't dangerous, but is it "NORMAL" does it happen to the majority of 5.9'S. I spoke with the Service Mgr, where I purchased the truck and he told me that it is "normal", however while looking at several durango's on ebay some with the 5.9 and some with the 5.2 the photo's they show of the gauges while the truck is warm and running, none showed the oil pressure low, they all registered in or really close to the middle, that is what has me concerned.
  • Has anyone pursued further reimbursement with dealers or manufacturer for the ball joint/front end problems? The recall on the upper ball joints is insufficient, especially when at the same time the mechanics say the lower ball joints and tie rod ends are 'gone' and vehicle should not be driven too far, too long. And also when the dealer's service manager admits to what amounts to a design flaw ie. suspension parts too light duty for the size and weight of vehicle. Dealer has offered a slight reduction in the $945 repair quote. Is this the best I can expect? Anyone had better luck getting these repairs covered by dealer or manufacturer?
  • Purchased my D less than a week ago "01" 5.9 L 46,500 MILES SLT PLUS every available option, after having it for a couple days, I noticed that the oil gauge would drop to the low line when the motor was warm and while it was at idle. Been told by several people not a big deal. I checked the oil the other day and it was over a quart "HIGH" I drained out approx. a quart and got it within specs. Put maybe 50 miles on it since then, decided to check it again..HIGH AGAIN!, drained out another quart. Called the dealer from which I bought it and took it into them today, they just called and said everything was fine. I went and picked it up drove it home and seems fine. After coming home I got a wild hair and decided to screen the oil I had removed..WALA!!..metal shavings and a small piece of metal, when I say small I mean like the size of a ant. The oil smells like gasoline as well..Maybe that is why my overhead says I am only gEt 9.6 miles a gallon.. WHAT DO I DO NOW?? THANKS ALAN
  • I have an 01 Durango SLT with the 5.9L. Bought it new in Dec. 2000. Gas mileage - 12/city and 17/hiway. This is our 5th Chrysler product and we will never buy another one. Had 3 vans and a Dakota. Out of all of these, the 1992 van and 1999 Dakota have had minimal problems.

     

    My Durango, which is not worth half of what I paid for it by the way, is a piece. The day before I was to move out of state, my transmission went out at 32,000 miles. At 35,000 miles, the bearings in the Transfer Case were worn and replaced. The actual problem was the bearings in the Differential were bad and they were replaced. They couldn't figure out where the noise was coming from. I also have a clunking in the front end when turning, which is now being recalled (the ball joints). The rotors are worn and need to be replaced, of course this is notorious for Chrysler. Now i'm waiting for the engine to blow. My oil gauge is playing up and down and other searches on the web indicate that is leading to the engine blowing.

     

    The Durangos and Dakotas have similar problems, i.e., bearings, catalytic converter, etc., and the dealers all know this because they have to be changed whenever one is traded in.

     

    I will never buy another Chrysler product and will suggest this to anybody I meet. Chrysler uses sub par parts and they know it (I know a guy that works for Chrysler). Out of 5 people I know that have owned or still own a Durango 99-03, they all have had problems.
  • My Durango is new only 400 miles on it and it has been to the shop plenty, for a vibration a door adjustment and the transmission shifts are messed up and I take it to the shop they tell me that there is no adjustment on it to help sometimes it bucks like I have a clutch from take off and going up a hill I give it gas and it sometimes will not take the gas, the RPMs drop down and it feels at anytime It may roll back and when it does finally shift down the RPM gauge shoots up as if it just broke loose

    The dealership said they know there is a problem with the V-6 in the new Durangos but at this time there is nothing they can do to help this problem until several complaints from techs and how many they get and how many report it as a problem. So until then they are sorry but their hands are tied. The dealership is trying to get me to trade it back in with a loss and get a V8 instead of a V6 because the others at there also do the same thing and they wont refund my money and I really dont want to spend more money to get another Durango I want mine fixed. Is anyone else having any vibration problem or transmission problems that cant be fixed? I called Chrysler Consumer services and they did not help they told me to talk it to a different dealership to be worked on, just what I really wanted to do!!!!!!!!! I am so upset about this new Durango so be sure to be aware of the new 2005 Durangos it starts up about a day after you get it and drive it around. Any suggestion on what I can do to get this problem fixed
  • I just bought a 01 durango as a tow vehicle. vehicle did not have tow package as told to me other than a hitch. The vehicle will tow car trailer and corvette (race). Vehicle will also be driven in cool weather, northern Illinois. Question: Should I run tarns lines directly to new cooler or one line to cooler then back into rad., making a loop back to tarns?
  • Take it right back to the dealer while driving it as little as possible. I hope you got some sort of a warranty.

     

      My guess is a injector is stuck, and so much gas is running down a cylinder wall that it runs past the rings into the oilpan. Gas in the oil does 2 things, it dilutes the oil so it doesn't lubricate (so the bearing wear real fast - i.e. probably your metal shavings) and if your get enough I have seen an engine ignite the oil (i.e. a small exlosion that will blow a hole in either the oil pan or the block).

     

    Good Luck.
  • My Yakima rack on my 2004 Durango is doing the same thing. Did you ever find a way to stop the wind noise. I don't really want a fairing, but will if that helps.
  • Interesting comment. I love my Durango, have no DVD, don't drink big gulps. I do use my to get to/from backpacking trips, take my kayaks to the river, take my mountain bike to some nice off-road courses. If that qualifies me as a Klump, so be it.
  • I'm a student doing some research about chrome clad. I was wondering if there is any way I could get a copy of that video. Thanks
  • last summer on long trips about an hour of highiway driving the durango would start running hot then overheat so winter came and the problem went away i figured it was the thermostat before moving from ny to montana i replaced the thermostat while in pennsylvania it started heating up going up hill then cooling on the way down it was also 30 and snowing the problem got worse that ihad to pull over to let it cool in iowa we stopped at a dealership to check it out the fan clutch was working ac fan was working it was pressure tested that was ok coolant level was ok so the dealership thought that maybe it was because of the trailer we were pulling so somebody else took the trailer and we continued the durango still was overheating now that we were in warmer temperature anybody have any ideas
  • I have a 98 Durango. Though I like most aspects of the vehicle (size, power, styling) I have had numerous problems since I purchased it. I didn't complain much because I bought it used for a good price. However, I began to get concerned after I heard the ball joint story on the news and then started surfing the web to see how many people were having problems. I have recently had the ball joints serviced so that's not a big deal anymore. What is more of a problem is the transmission. At 98,000 miles, the trans went out. Again, being a used vehicle, there is no telling how poorly it was maintained. I took it to a dealer (a reputable one) to have it rebuilt. After about 9 or 10 months, I noticed I could not switch to 4-wheel drive full-time (there was not much snow between the time I had it fixed and the first time I noticed the problem). At the same time, I learned that I the truck will not move at all when the wheels are cut all the way to either side (no power at all, as if the brakes are on). This makes it difficult to maneuver out of tight spaces. I have had the brakes checked. Aside from normal wear and tear, there was no link to this lack of power when the wheels are turned. Finally, about a month ago, I began hearing a rattling noise in low gear. I had a local mechanic (not a dealer) look at it and he suggested that it may be the trans (which is what I suspected). In addition, he told me that the dealer had not replaced all of the bolts in the crossmember and that two of the bolts on the passenger side were not tightened down completely (one was crossthreaded on an angle)!

    Can anyone comment on the rattle in low gear, the lack of power when the wheels are turned, or the missing bolts in the crossmember? I'm 10 months into a 12 month warranty. What are my chances of getting this taken care of?
  • Does anyone have the promo video that Dodge/Chrysler sent to dealers explaining the Chrome Clad wheel process? I'm a student doing some research, and it would be helpful to see, thanks
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    Check your state's Lemon Law. If there is a problem with this vehicle, and the dealer can't fix the problem, your vehicle has "diminished valve". Follow the "Lemon Law Process" in your state. According to your posting, the dealer wants you to trade the vehicle, and purchase one of the V8 models, because all the V6 models have the same problem. QUESTIONS: ----- Why didn't the dealer / saleperson tell you that fact prior to purchasing this vehicle?---What makes you think that there isn't another issue with the V8 model? It might be a good idea to check with a "Lemon Law Attorney" in your state. The "Playing Field" becomes level, when the dealer sees that you are willing to spend some money to get your rights. Lots of luck! ---- Keep us informed about your situation. ----Greg
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    Put your engine on a schedule of frequent oil and filter changes (every 2,000 miles), to be sure that you DO NOT have the start of a "sludge problem". Make sure that you are using the correct grade and weight of oil. Some synthetic oils will show low oil pressure at idle. Check under the "oil filler cap" for "sludge". If you have sludge starting, there is a product sold on the "net" that can clean the engine. Do a search. On older cars that had sludge problems, I would drain the oil, and fill the crankcase with five quarts of kerosine. (DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE with kerosine in the crankcase!). I would let the kerosine sit in the crankcase for a couple of days. The kerosine would soften the build-up in the oil pick up screen. After a couple of days, I would drain the kerosine and replace the oil and filter. I would then start the engine and let it run at idle. If the problem was the "pick-up screen", the kerosine usually solved the problem.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    Follow your "inner voice". It is telling you something!
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    GREAT posting! The "truth" is the "truth" and nothing can change the "truth". We had a Jeep GC, (another Chrysler Product), that was "junk"! The vehicle had brake problems, electrical problems, suspension / steering problems, drive train problems and tire problems. Sound familiar?????????? YES, Chrysler "quality" is outstanding, and their customer relations is careing, sensitive and customer focused, as long as there is nothing wrong with the vehicle. I would NEVER purchase another Chrysler product!
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    "It's now possible to retrofit a navigation system to your new Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep vehicle."

    Mopar Introduces New Add-On Nav System for 2005 line (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host
  • dbeltzdbeltz Posts: 1
    I had a probelm twice with mine and finally they put Dye in the AC and found where the problem was and it goes in tomorrow to be fixed new parts all the way through.

    Dan
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