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2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 Turning Problems

kennyu05kennyu05 Posts: 6
edited October 28 in Chevrolet
Ok, I just bought a used 2000 Blazer ZR2 w/ 68000 miles on it. Not bad for a 2000. Anyways. I didn't notice this until I had already purchased the vehicle. When I turn very sharply on pavement (say to park) the front wheels seem to skip. It only does it when turning sharply. What could be causing this problem? Is this a normal thing for ZR2s? I've been reading through forums but haven't found anything similar to this. I am wondering if it's a problem with the differential or something. Maybe the 4 wheel drive won't disengage? I drive primarily in 2 wheel high. But it has the problem in 4 wheel also.

Comments

  • 3 button dash switch I'd say with the np233 case so the front driveshaft should not turn in 2wd - go under and see (grab it and turn when off and parked of course). If its engaged in 2wd then you probably have a bad 3 port vac switch on the transfer csae or the encoder motor that activates it is stuck in that position (when 4Hi selected the motor steps once and engages the vac switch for the front axle coupler and the driveshaft. 4Lo steps again for lower gear. If 4 button Autotrac let me know thats alittle different. If the TCCM is locked up (4wd computer) then pull battery power for 30 min to reset and see if that clears it.
  • I just did some "testing". I took it to a gravel parking lot and tested the 4 wheel drive. It is a 3 button dash. When in 2hi and I take off the front wheels don't spin. If I put in 4hi they do. But when I have it in 2hi and I'm turning in to a parking space, it feels like I have posi-traction in the front. Which I think is making the wheels skip on the pavement. Any Ideas?
  • I tried your test. The front drive shaft spins freely. But like I said in my other message, it still feels like I have posi-traction in the front when turning sharply. Does the front differential lock and unlock when 4 wheel drive is engaged? If so, maybe the differential is locked up? If this is how it works, how does the differential engage and disengage. Vacuum hose? If it is, where does that hose connect at? And where does it come from?
  • Comes from the transfer case 3 port switch and ends under the battery tray at the actuator that is vac and pulls the cable to the front axle coupler - have to pull the battery and tray to get to it - or crawl under and pull the line from the transfer that runs up to it and see if vac on it in 2wd - if so plug it and test drive to see it it unlocks the front axle.
  • So should there be a vacuum on it in two wheel or no vacuum in two wheel?
  • So it's possible that a leak in that hose could be causing the problem. If there's no vacuum then the front differentials won't unlock... right?
  • I have been reading some other posts on this site and realize that I made a mistake. I was thinking that there is supposed to be a vacuum on the line under the battery in 2wheel drive. When in fact there shouldn't be. I will have to check this out sometime soon. Or take it to a mechanic. I bought a warranty for it so I might as well use it.
  • You got it - no vac to front actuator in 2wd. The 3 port switch on the transfer case always has a vac to it and the encoder motor steps once when 4Hi pressed and opens the vac port to the front and when 2wd pressed closes to front and opens a vent that releases vac to front and closes off the engine source.
  • jlink87jlink87 Posts: 1
    i also have a 2000 zr2 blazer and when i first got it i thought there was something wrong with it when i was turning sharply, but it turned out its the posi-traction rear differential. Could be the same for you.. just a suggestion.
  • I have a 2 door 2wd 2000 chevy blazer with 82,340 miles on it.
    I have been having trouble with the passenger side door panel coming off the door and the plastic bushings that hold the . As well as some issues with my power windows malfunctioning. Can anyone tell me the best place to get these issues repaired ? Is it worth it to take it into a dealer or to find the parts on my own and have them put on at a body shop?

    Any info would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks

    Robert
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The nylon retainers are available at most auto parts stores and are very easy to replace. Just be sure the tip of the retainer is lined up with the hole in the door before smacking it into place with the palm of your hand.

    What kind of power window problems are you having?
  • Thanks for your help.
    The Driver side power window seems as if it's dead.
    I heard a faint grinding sound about a week ago and now it won't even go up or down.
    I am not sure if it's the motor or a fuse.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Do you hear any sound at all from the door panel when you press the switch? If totally silent, may be the motor is dead. If you need to replace the motor, or have it replaced, I have had good luck buying used parts from a place in Florida.

    used motor for S10 window

    I don't work for these guys, but I have bought a couple of parts for the '02 xTreme I bought and they are quick to deliver, and the used parts were just as represented.
  • I am not hearing any sound from the door panel at all.
    It seems as if the motor is probably dead.

    Thanks again for your help

    Robert
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,902
    Well, I'm not much good at this stuff, but my driver's side window switch carbons up every couple of years on my van. When the switch quits, you don't hear the motor at all. So the motor may be ok, just not getting power.

    The faint grinding sound about a week ago does sound like the motor gave up the ghost though.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Catching up on messages here.

    Definitely use a meter or test light to see if you are getting power to the motor. The switch is very easy to change, and is also available from s10warehouse.

    I promise I don't work for or get a kick-back from those guys, but with the price of dealer parts I figure any time I find a 'good deal' I am going to spread the word.
  • Thanks again for the info.
    Well if S10 warehouse is a good deal I can understand the need to want to pass that along to people. Perhaps they should have you working for them. You definitely seem to know what you're talking about and where to find parts at a reasonable price.
    Which has always been very important to me when buying anything.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    When I bought my '02 xTreme I was surprised to find out it didn't have remote keyless entry. Had to be an oversight on the part of whoever did the original order. Anyway, the receiver was $100 from the dealer, $75 wholesale, and $11 from s10W. The keyfobs were about $60 from the dealer, $45 wholesale. Found them at chipkeys.com for $24 each.

    So, by doing a little research I was able to install the remote keyless entry for $59 with two key fobs. The dealer had to "tell" the computer that the vehicle now had RKE, but since I am a regular customer for some maintenance items, they did it for free.
  • mjgpc5mjgpc5 Posts: 1
    My blazer wont start it is getting a yellow spark replaced the plugs and wires, distibutor and rotor even replaced the ignition coils still wont start. it acts like it wants to but wont where should i go from here
  • The front wheel overall width is wider than the back wheels on the ZR2. look from rear to front along the side(standing at the rear of the vehicle looking along its side), and you will see this. This can cause a tracking glitch. Also, be aware that if the vehicle is squirly on the freeway then the issue may actually be with how the vehicle was aligned. It is a different setting than a normal blazer (called an XZ). The front wheels should be slightly toed out (sorta like a person standing heels together), this helps the vehicle hold its place on the road. You may actually be able to see this when you sight the vehicle from rear to front along the side...at any rate it should not toe in.
    As for hopping in a parking lot...mine sqeels and thats fine...just don't put the vehicle in 4x4 on pavement...it will destroy the drive shaft in the front...hense the hopping when in 4x4 is normal because something has to give as the outside wheels turn faster than the inside.
  • Sit in the vehicle with the ignition off. Make sure the fan is also off so it is quite. Close the doors and be ready to listen. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, you should hear the Fuel Pump prime the fuel line for about 3 seconds then shut off....If that is not happening, check the fuses to the fuel pump. Or just behind the intake manifold is a small plastic cap on the fuel line...(it runs straight back away from the center of the engine on its way to the tank)...take off the cap and press your fingernail into the center (like a tire valve) and release the fuel pressure. Then repeat the ignition thing to see if the pump re-charges the fuel line. If so, consider replacing the In-Line fuel pump. If still no sound from the rear of the vehicle when you first turn the ignition on, consider replacing the fuel pump.
    Good Luck
    Glenn
  • I also just bought a used one with 74,000 miles which does the same thing. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a defective hub sensor. Said it reads the speed of the tires incorrectly and reacts as though you are sliding on ice. They are "willing" to replace it today for $778. According to some other websites a high quality part for this is about $170 at Auto Zone and it is a 3-4 hour job at home.

    Has anyone ever replaced a hub sensor?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Never take a car to a dealership if it is out of manufacturer's warranty. Although a dealershiop is "willing" to repair a older car, they discourage walk-in customers with older cars by giving them a "courtesy" price on the work. That is because they have all they can do just keeping their new cars running under the manufacturer's warranty. Many independent auto repair shops are also reluctant to do work on older cars that may cost more than the car is worth. If the customer decides the repair cost is too high after the work is done, the car repair shop is stuck with a car they cannot sell for enough money to pay for the cost of the work. I have even heard of independent auto repair shops asking for a deposit before they work on older cars.

    That is about the right price AutoZone quoted you, depending on the brand. It is for the front wheel, 4WD, 5-lug bolts, 27-spline hub/bearing/sensor/reluctor wheel/ pigtail and connector assembly.
    BCA / National #513124....$132
    Timken #513124... $113
    ACDelco FW127...$234

    There are cheaper ones available on e-bay but avoid those because they are inferior off shore products and may only last a few months.

    The only specialized tool you will need is a bearing puller and 3 or 4 hours at home is about right.The new car dealership gave you a courtesy bid that included an extra $278 to cover the "take it somewhere else" cost..
  • I have replaced both on the left and right side. Advance sold me the part, I jacked up the car took the breaks off and did it for a lot less than that.
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