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Ford Aerostar Starting/Stalling/Idling Issues

ron2_1ron2_1 Posts: 1
My 97 Aerostar 3.0L has developed a wierd problem. When it is cold (below -10 degC) it will not start. When I turn the key on, I hear the fuel pump relay click but do not hear the fuel pump. Also the light for the overdrive displays off. At first I thought the gas line was frozen but that isn't the problem. If I plug the block heater in for a couple of hours, it will start right up. Also the off light for the overdrive is not on and of course I hear the fuel pump when the key is first turned on.

Any ideas what might be causing this? It runs great after it starts.

Thanks in advance
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Comments

  • I jump started another vehicle a couple of times with my aerostar and now it acts like it has a dead battery. Dome lights, etc work, but won't even turn over. Charged the battery and nothing happened. Ideas??
  • Have Aerostar with 3.0. Engine starts but goes dead after warming up but will start right back up and then goes dead again after it run for a few miles.
    Is this elect. or gas problem?
  • 92 aerostar cant find fuel pump relay have replaced fuel pump still wont crank
  • My friend has a 1986 van, and he drove the van home and went out to start it again, and it wouldn't start. The van ran fine all the way home. The Van is getting gas and it is sparks, so we have fuel and spark but it won't start. It cranks but won't turn over, but if you spray starting fluid under the hood , it will start right up. I told him I thought a sensor, but he has replaced two different ones and it still didn't make any difference. Any help would be appreciated.
  • blmrblmr Posts: 1
    I have a 92 areostar that i bought real cheap and come to find out that most of the vacuum lines were cut. So I copied off of my 95 aerostar and I am still having problems. What I really need is a diagram.
  • I am unable to get my 93 to start, it will crank all day but will not fire. I have replaced the the distributor cap, rotar button, plugs and wires and still won't fire, anyone else had this problem or can you offer any suggestions? :confuse:
  • I am unable to get my 92 to start, it will crank all day but will not fire no spark. I have replaced the the distributor cap, rotar button, plugs, wires, main computer box, engine control module and still won't fire, anyone else had this problem or can you offer any suggestions? Does this engine have a 'coil resistor?' and what does the pertronic igniter kit look like or where is it located. Is the coil pickup in the distributor cap or in the base area of the distributor? Thank you
  • I believe this engine year has computer OBD codes that are readable? You should get someone to read your codes and go from there.
  • happened to me to if you have some one smack the starter with a wrench while you try to start it it should fire up and it will be your starter costed me $100
  • it sould be youraltenator if you have to charge your battery but just to make sure have your battery checked out first then check belts on your altenator if those are good you could take your altenator out and have that checked also
  • cer51cer51 Posts: 1
    where is the obdII plug in for a 94 ford aerostar van ?
  • Can someone please tell me where the :mad: Fuel Filter is located and what type it is?
    Thanks to All!!
  • Check coolant level of radiator. A mixed message is sent to computer and
    thinks its running cold, but warmed up.
    good luck on your aerostar :)
  • 97 4.0 engine 4x4 starts and idle but anything else it stalls was told it is the coil plugs and wires need replaced. does this sound right and if so is it hard to do
  • I have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd van.When its wet outside it wont start.But when its dry it will.Can anybody help? :cry:
  • I have a 1993 Ford Aerostar that sometimes starts and runs fine, but other times will just turn over and not crank. When it does start , it runs smooth and might work for a week or more, then the problem appears again. The MAS airflow sensor was replaced - ran fine for two weeks. The fuel pump was replaced - ran fine for a week. The fuel filter has been replaced. Today my son heads off to work, and it won't start. Later it finally did and as soon as the engine starts running everything is fine. Turn off the ignition and then it won't crank again. The shop says it does not show any codes. I have left it down there for a week and it just cranks every time.
    HELP!!!!!!
  • I have a 97 Aerostar V6 3.0L. It is idling way tyoo high and I cannot get it to kick down. I have checked all vacuum lines for leaks and breaks. I checked the accelerator cable thinking maybe it was stuck. I don't know what else to check. any ideas? :confuse:
  • I think the problem lies at the distributor. Check to see that all wires going into the distributor are in fact connecting. lead-in wires sometimes vibrate loose and are within millimeters of touching and sometimes do and sometimes not. They have to connect all the time. to check out, pull distributor cap, test the module for 12 volts at the module connect point by using an alligator clip. The process is to move the wires coming into the module at the same time viewing the voltage meter to see if the voltage gets hot and cold. It should stay hot. That is :confuse: elimination one.
    Elimination two, easyier, is make sure ignition wires are not laying bare on the manifold. Sometimes (it) happens. If it bumps the manifold, what ford stands for will show up. That is when the frustration begins.
    Elimation three, is, simply check to see that the coil and condenser wires are secure.
    Elimation four, if all these things check out okay, replace the distributor module, which is highly unlikely as it starts sometimes and runs fine.
    :)
  • I think you might have a forign object under the lip of the throttle actuator. When you step on the gas peddle, a cable pulls on a semi-circular arrangement on your engine designed to givie it more gas or to idle it down. If, by chance, something like a leaf or an acorn or a small piece of limb should drop onto the the idle area and hold the accelorator open, it will keep a fast idle until the :shades: is removed. Simply open the hood, rotate the throttle to open and look to see if anything is crushed in there on the throttle-stop. Take index finger and thumb, pick out the offending object, slam it on the ground, mash it with your foot, and smile.

    matter is removed.
  • It sounds like a problem like the old plymouths used to have. The old plymouths could not stand water. Dry days were fine. Rainy days, most likely the engine would miss badly or stop running if you could get it started. As you know, electricity will jump ten feet to get to water. Which brings us to your problem. I think that somehow moisture is getting into your electronics like the distributor cap, or on your wires or around your plugs. I'd start with the distributor cap.

    :) The easiest approach is to put on a pot of coffee, then get an extension cord and a hair dryer. Place the dryer so as it blows hot air onto the distributor and wires. Go back in the house and drink your coffee. This allows the dryer to dry out any moisture that may have accumulated. Give it twenty minutes.

    If you don't want to do that get a can of spray-dry and spray the cap inside and out and then give it a try. Or, hang a light bulb, about 60 watts, over the wires and distributor. Caution that you do not lay bulb on engine parts or on plastic, especially if there is a strong smell of gasoline etc, just common sense things. Be sure to plug in light and see that it is burning, maybe a better word would be lit. Be sure not to light up anything else.
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