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Oldsmobile Alero Maintenance and Repair

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  • Daniel, it's a 84 with two throttle bodies; cross fire injection. all was ok when I backed it out of the garage buy when I started it to put it back in thats when the idol problem started . I checked the tps it checked out ok nothing looks out of order, I talked to the service manager at our local vette dealer hr thinks it could be some dirt got into one of the sensors or it could be a computer problem. Thanks for replying, Tony
  • Tony,

    If you did not take it apart, then I can't see how dirt got into one of the sensors. As far as the computer is concerned, I really don't think the computer just decided that it was going to fail. Usually, when the computer is failing, you will have more problems than just an idle issue. Has the car been sitting long in the garage? There is however, one possibility to look at. How many miles are on the car. Check your oxygen sensor. If your oxygen sensor is clogged it will tell the computer to adjust the air/fuel mixture and that will cause the RPM's to go up. When the engine is running at the high RPM, does it seem to be running smooth or does it seem to be running rough? Oxygen sensors do have a habit of failing quickly. Refresh my memory, does that have dual exhaust? If so, I believe there are 2 oxygen sensors.
    There is, however, one other possibility. There is a gasket between the air intake body and the fuel intake that bolts to the top of the engine. That gasket could be cracked. Also, remove the air ducts that attach to the front of the throttle bodies from the air cleaner. There you will see a metal baffel on each throttle body that closes off the air to the engine. Make certain that each one is free from dirt and carbon build up. Make certain they travel full range from closed to open. I have seen the dirt and carbon build up so much that it does not close all the way. And again, make sure that there is not a loose or busted vacuum hose that attaches to the throttle bodies.

    I want you to understand, these are just what comes to mind. They are merely suggestions. If I had my hands on it, then I would be able to give you more difinitive answers. Let me know how you make out with it.

    I hope this helps,

    Daniel
  • Daniel,
    Up till now I havn't been able to get any engine codes because I disconnect the battery when I put it away, So yesterday I went for a hell ride aparintly it's idling at 70mph anyway I came up with a code 15 my manual tells me it's the coolant sensor so I'm going that route today. To answer your questions it has been sitting a long time and it has duel exhaust and ran smooth after it cleared out a little. the baffles you talking about are they the throttle plates or the air cleaner baffles? I'll lit you know how I make out,
    . Thanks again for your time.

    Tony

    s the coolant sensor so today i'm taking that route.
    Yes it has been sitting a long time 95,000 miles duel exhaust. according to the manual this sensor can effect the idol. I appreceat your help I've worked on alot of cars in my 56 years never ran across something like this oh I almost forgot she ran smooth as a whistle once it cleared out a little. Thank again I'll let you know how I make out.
    Tony
  • Tony,

    The baffles I am talking about are the throttle plates. Yes, Please let me know how you make out with it. Now that you mention it, you are correct about the coolant temp sensor. If it is telling the computer that the coolant temp is too high, it will adjust the RPM's to make the coolant circulate through the radiator quicker.
    That sounds about right 1900 RPM's in that car is about 70 MPH.

    Daniel
  • Hi Daniel,
    I'm having a hard time typing today my hands are shaking from my medication. Life's a [non-permissible content removed] then you buy a old vette then you have it smashed at the junk yard.
    Tony
  • eickeick Posts: 2
    Ok so here is the problem. The Engine mount is rubbing on the pulley that runs the serpentine belt and making a nasty noise. Its not affecting the belt at the moment. I first changed the engine mount but then discovered the bracket that is attached to the engine and bridged to the mount is broken. (it had completely sheared in half) I found this part in a junkyard and replaced it. Now the center bolt holding on the bracket broke inside the engine so I was only able to attach it with 3 of the 4 bolts. All this was put back together and the engine ran perfectly for 3 days. The sound came back and the part had broken again in the same spot. Here is my question. What is causing the extra force to break this mount? Could it be that one of the other mounts is bad and it is putting too much pressure on the bracket? Or could it be that one bolt that broke off in the engine? I figured that the bracket had enough support with the other bolts so I am assuming that the problem is another bracket I just want to confirm.

    Any one else seen this break before?
  • eickeick Posts: 2
    Ok so here is the problem. The Engine mount is rubbing on the pulley that runs the serpentine belt and making a nasty noise. Its not affecting the belt at the moment. I first changed the engine mount but then discovered the bracket that is attached to the engine and bridged to the mount is broken. (it had completely sheared in half) I found this part in a junkyard and replaced it. Now the center bolt holding on the bracket broke inside the engine so I was only able to attach it with 3 of the 4 bolts. All this was put back together and the engine ran perfectly for 3 days. The sound came back and the part had broken again in the same spot. Here is my question. What is causing the extra force to break this mount? Could it be that one of the other mounts is bad and it is putting too much pressure on the bracket? Or could it be that one bolt that broke off in the engine? I figured that the bracket had enough support with the other bolts so I am assuming that the problem is another bracket I just want to confirm.

    Any one else seen this break before?
  • Have you tryed looking for a recall the 2000 alero's have a recall on the hazards and turn signals you can go to a local dealerships and get them replaced for free.
  • link title

    These have a magnet on the cam sprocket, these magnets tend to fall out of the little plastic retainer. If the coil pack is good, and the ignition module good then it will prob. be the cam sensor pick up magnet. Unfortunately the timing cover will need to come off in order to access the gear. While all of this removed might as well replace the timing chain. Before tearing all this down have someone diag it to check the pulse width of the cam sensor, if you have no pulse then the magnet fell out. You may further verify by pulling the cam sensor and turning the engine until you can see the magnet or where it supposed to be, through the hole where the cam sensor goes.

    The cam sensor is located below the water pump.
  • twitchytwitchy Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    This car has been nothing but problems since I purchased it. Car has 116,000 miles and is a V6 3100
    Seems that engine is not getting gas when starting. Sometimes it starts fine, sometimes takes about 5 times. I can hear the fuel pump, then I start it, sometimes this works most of the time it doesn't.
    The worst: driving in traffic and the car just stops, no warning just stops.
    So far we have replaced fuel pump, filter, gas lines.
    Also "Service Vehicle" light comes on when the car is started in a darker lit area, but does not come on if started in daylight???
    Cannot get "Low Tire Pressure" light to go off after resetting.
    This is a nightmare!
    I've probably driving the car all together for maybe a month and have owned it for 8 months.
    Any help or ideas on how to fix these things is appreciated.
  • appellofappellof Posts: 54
    Twitchy,

    Interesting screen name, but any how, here are my thoughts on your issues.
    After reading your post, and thinking about it for a little while, here is what I came up with. (KEEP IN MIND THESE ARE MEERLY ONLY SUGGESTIONS AND THOUGHTS). First of all I don't know how mechanically enclined you are meaning if you work on it yourself or have a repair shop work on it. But here it goes, you did not mention that you tested or replaced the ignition switch. As you may or may not know, the ignition switch is a multi-layer switch. Judging by what you said about driving down the road and all of a sudden the engine quits, It leads me to believe that one of the switch plates is loosing contact. It probably could be just dirty or just plain worn out. The cost of a new ignition switch is about $200.00. You could remove the switch and get some good contact cleaner (Home Depot has the best stuff) and clean the switch contacts. If you decide to remove the switch, be VERY careful not to break any wires off of the connector that plugs into the switch. Because your PASS LOCK security system also goes to the ignition switch. Another thought is have you checked the fuel pump relay? That too could also be the culprit. Also check to see if the relay wires are tight in the socket. As far as the "Service Vehicle" light issue, Could the light be on all the time but you can not see it during the daylight? As far as the "Low Tire Pressure" light, I really don't know what actually tells the computer that the tire pressure is low. I don't know if it is a level switch or something else. By pushing the "reset" switch, it should toggle through the "Change Oil" and the "Check Tire Pressure" lights.

    These are just my thoughts and I hope it helps. If I could put my hands on the car, I would be able to tell you where the problem is :(

    Daniel
  • twitchytwitchy Posts: 3
    Thank You Daniel.
    That was a lot of info and I appreciate it. I will share this with the person who is trying to figure out what is wrong with the car.
    As far as the "Service Vehicle Light", it definitely goes out when started in an area which is brighter (who knows why?) We tried resetting "Low Tire Pressure Light" after checking tire pressure but just it won't go off after following the instructions in the book.
    This car has a mind of it's own.
    I beginning to think I should name it Christine!
    Maria :)
  • positivepositive Posts: 3
    I am new to the forum. I need help.

    I have a Alero 1999, V6 with 130,000 miles. This car was not started for 2 months but running great until then. When I started it after two months, I noticed the battery was dead. Replaced with new battery. Now it starts and stops within 2 seconds or so. I think the fuel pump sensor is acting up.

    Any suggestion to get my beauty to run again without towing to dealer and paying thro' nose is appreciated.

    Thanks
    - Positive that I will get gong with your help
  • appellofappellof Posts: 54
    OKAY First thing is letting a car sit for an extended period of time is like a death sentence to the engine. Did you put fresh fuel in it? If not then that would be the first thing to do. Then check all the electrical connectors and make sure that they don't look corroded. I don't know where you live, but, another thing to look for is to see if rodents didn't chew the wiring. Here in Arkansas, the rodents love to eat the wiring harness. I have been a victim of that in the past. Make sure that the vacuum hoses have not deteriorated. I have a 2000 Alero and the vacuum hose that goes to the MAP sensor dry rotted. Also since it sat for so long you might want to replace the fuel filter. Since gas turns into varnish over a period of time, your filter could be restricted. Also, get a fuel pressure guage and make sure the fuel pump is not dropping out. One other thing to look at replacing is the fuel pressure regulator. Again because the fuel most likly gummed it up.

    I hope this helps,

    Daniel
  • positivepositive Posts: 3
    Thanks Daniel.

    I would like to follow your advise. I would like to check the fuel pressure. Where to attach the pressure guage? Any help is highly apprciated.

    Best
    Positive
  • appellofappellof Posts: 54
    Positive,

    OKAY, On V6 models, Remove the cap from the fuel pressure test port. It is located on the fuel rail at the front of the engine (by the serpentine belt) between the alternator and the Power Steering reservoir. It is a schrader valve. It looks like a tire air pressure valve. When you attach the fuel pressure guage all you need to do is turn the key to the "ON" position with the engine not started. It should read 41 to 47 PSI. You will want to check it several times over the course of about 30 to 45 minutes. Don't just turn it on and leave it on for that amount of time because once it pressurizes it will stay. So you will have to pressurize it and relieve the pressure several times. The reason why it takes several times to do this is because it actually tests the integrity of the fuel pump. All your tests should be between 41 and 47 PSI. Make sure that you use a high pressure guage.

    I hope this helps

    Daniel
  • positivepositive Posts: 3
    Thanks Daniel. Appreciate speedy response. Great.

    I have located the test port. I need to get a fuel pressure gauge. If possible, please do recommend a model that would fit this port and measure the pressure suggested by you.
    Best,
    Positive
  • appellofappellof Posts: 54
    Positive,

    I would suggest an Actron fuel pressure guage. It should come with all the fittings. The guage is good for 0 to 100 PSI. Most auto parts places have them for about $45.00. If you do some research, you may be able find it cheaper. Also some Auto Parts houses rent them.

    Daniel
  • rtaftrtaft Posts: 1
    I've had this happen 3 times. Same vehicle, 2003 Alero 3.4L V6 engine. The first time 5 bolts stripped the threads in the head. I gunned it up a steep hill to pass a bus. The second time I was stuck in the snow and was trying to rock it out...got carried away with the RPMs...1 bolt stripped. This time I was not doing anything abnormal...pulled 1 more bolt.
  • -Shaun
    Hi , my name is Shaun and I have a 2004 Alero Oldsmobile. It has 97,000 miles on it and it had about 55-60,000 on it when I purchased the vehicle . The problem that I'm having is that when I'm in gear and I'm driving there seems to be a dull humming noise coming from the front of the vehicle . A shop said it might be a barring or something . It almost sounds like something is rubbing . Also , I change the breaks back in June , it's not August and they are already going on ! What's going on ? Anyone else having these problems ? Let me know ! (:
  • hi,i have a 200 alero oldsmobile,i broke the button the pushes in to make the stickshift go into park,reverse etc.... how do we remove the knob so that we can replace the button? there is no key or screw on the knob.
  • What tools would I need to change the front brakes on a 2002 Alero? I am most concerned with what i need to remove the calipers.
  • hay i have had two aleros a 2000 and a 2003 and have removed the stick shifts on both of them all you have to do to remove them is put the key in the ignition turn the key over put up the emergency brake then shift it to the last gear then turn the key back then takr a small flat head screw driver and carfully pri the u shaped pin that is in the middle of the stick shift once you have the pin out you are good to go
  • Jmitton,

    Since you asked, I just replaced the front rotors and brake pads on my 2000 Alero. I can't remember if it was a 12 or 13mm socket that I used to remove the caliper. I would strongly recommend that you use a large "C" clamp to push the caliper piston back. Look at the rotors and make sure that they are not chewed up. That is where I went wrong. I let my brakes go too long and the pad was gone and the metal backing plate of the pad tore into the rotor. I ended up replacing both rotors. If you have to replace the rotors, that is real simple as well. There are 2 bolts that hold the caliper mount to the wheel assy. I think those were either 14 or 15 mm. Outside of the "C" clamp, there are no special tools required. It took me almost an hour to replace my brake pads and rotors.

    I hope this helps

    Daniel
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