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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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  • I am thinking of taking my 95 disco on a trip across the country. any suggestions on what to have serviced before hand?
    Got about 120K on it but runs without a hickup.
  • rkoesler:
    I love my Rover, but am a little PO at my dealer since I just spent $900 for front brakes & rotors at 40K. That is in addition to $300 for rear pads at 25K. Please give me further info about any recall on the brakes so I can complain.
  • Sorry, mine is a 2000 DII as well.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    enough to explain to me that Ford Z-plan includes Land Rover, I have an additional question...if I want to purchase an extended warranty to 100K, does Z-plan discount the warranty price, too, or can the dealer sell at any price they want?
  • kbowenkbowen Posts: 58
    Your post above that the Pirelli Scorpion S/T comes in 18" and was a decent tire gave me some hope that maybe, just maybe, there is an off road tire for us 18" guys. Not so. The S/T does not come in the 18" size, only the Zero model does and it's primary use is high speed highway. Checked with Goodyear, Michelin, Dunlop and a bunch of others and there is NOTHING. Even went to the dealership asking for help and was told that not only is there no decent off road tire available for the 18" wheel, Land Rover will no longer even offer the 16" wheel on the Disco for which there are plenty of good off road tires available. So, along with all of the other changes made to the 2003--unibody, independent suspension, rack and pinion steering, etc.--Ford has truly transformed this once magnificent highly capable off road vehicle into the soccer mom dream mobile with only the ILLUSION of off road prowess left, much as it seems GM is trying to do with the Hummer II (all I see in the commercials is some dainty woman driving this beastly looking HII like she's behind the wheel of a VW rabbit). I envy you and your 96, I believe it is, and your ability to keep it up yourself and modify it as you may need to. For us guys who buy from the show room, they are stripping away all the options, except the option to vote with our feet. It is a darn shame, I really like the DII, but it has morphed into an animal other than what I bought it for. The new Jeep Rubicon looks promising and I may just turn the DII over to the wife the way nature, or rather Ford, intended.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The 2003 Discovery is not unibody, it is body-on-frame with live axle's front and rear. It also does not have rack and pinion steering. You must have it confused with the 2003 Range Rover, which despite having these changes is actually a more accomplished off road vehicle than the 4.0-4.6 it replaced. The S model still comes with 16" wheels standard, and the prior years 16" wheels are also still available. Land Rover cannot prevent you from changing to whatever wheel and tire combination you want, it is your vehicle. There is just no approved 16" rim or tire for the SE and HSE with ACE. Ford has had little input into the current Discovery as the base vehicle is largely the same as the earlier Series II vehicles. Rant all you want, but please get your facts straight.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Have you looked at prior years' 16" wheels? I don't know the lug spacing but I bet they'd bolt right up to a SII hub. You might even look for some 16" steel NATO wheels and mount some gnarly treads on them, then rotate them onto the truck for weekend adventures? Take a look at Discoweb.org for suggestions about tires and wheels... they're a good resource for tech questions.

    One thing to bear in mind, if you put tall tires and 16" wheels on an ACE truck, you're running a mild risk if you drive it hard in corners. ACE will hydraulically limit body/suspension roll but it can't anticipate how the tires themselves will deflect in hard cornering. Just be careful. :)

    Rover on!
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    16" rims for the DI or Defender won't work, different bolt pattern. But the 4.0-4.6 SE Range Rover had 16" rims as standard equipt. from 95-01 and these are compatable with the DII. Also all non-ACE equipped DII's in 99,00,01 and SD Models in 02 and S models in 03 come standard with 16" rims. So these will not be unavailable anytime soon as they have to be available for warranty coverage. Your comments on ACE equipped vehicles and the effect of 16" rims and tires is spot on.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Of course! The SII Disco has the earlier Rangie axles... so of course they'll have that bolt pattern. Thanks for setting me straight. And this is good information for all you Disco offroaders to snip and tuck away somewhere for future reference.
  • I don't even own a Disco yet, so while I can't comment directly, I can offer some general towing advice.

    The real issue with any tow vehicle and a heavy trailer is stability, not power. A short wheelbase vehicle like the Disco (100 inches) will have nowhere near the directional control of a longer wheelbase vehicle (like just about every other truck). It is a case of the tail wagging the dog. Serious accidents happen all the time with short trucks and long trailers.

    Also, while it is possible to tow 4500 pounds with a rig "rated" for 5000, it is pushing the envelope and you are just asking for trouble. Be very suspicious of advertised trailer weights - they are almost universally lower than reality. The only sure way to know is to take it to a public scale and weigh it. And I have doubts that you will only be carrying 650 pounds of load in the trailer - full gray and black water tanks alone will likely add 350 pounds (and you can't always empty them right away). When I owned a 25 ft Nash, I carried almost 1500 pounds of stuff ocassionally. Drinking water, canned goods, personal gear, sporting goods like bikes, clothes, books, added installed equipment like a generator - it all adds up VERY quickly. I towed my 6000 pound (loaded) trailer with a 3/4 ton 7.4 liter Suburban, and did not feel as if it were overkill, especially in the mountains.

    For your trailer I suggest a full-sized pickup or a long wheelbase SUV.

    For further comments and opinions visit the various trailer newsgroups, like:

    rec.outdoors.rv-travel

    alt.rv.pop-up-trailers

    You can use this link to search their archives:

    http://groups.google.com/googlegroups/deja_announcement.html

    Be safe!
  • pjd1pjd1 Posts: 13
    "Has anyone replaced their stock 18" tires on their D2 with snow tires from Bridgestone."

    I've recently purchased Blizzaks for my wife's
    Jeep Liberty, as well as for my own 2001 Disco II.(However, I had only the stock 16" wheels.)

    I can't praise these tires highly enough.
    These tires are quiet and smooth on the highway
    and they are nothing short of amazing on hard packed slippery snow or ice.
    Do you absolutely need them for your Disco?
    Probably not, a fresh set of stock Michelin XPC's are pretty decent in almost any conditions when combined with anti-locks & traction control.
    Still if the conditions in your area warrant them, (Black Ice, etc.), they're well worth the dough, about $125-$130 apiece, mounted.

    BTW, the geniuses in the Bridgestone marketing
    dept have changed the name of the Blizzak for light trucks to "Winter Dueler",(Ugh!) DM-Z2.
    Still, the tire is exceptional.

    Important tip: These tires must come off in the
    Spring. If you run them in warm weather the tread
    will wear out very quickly.
    Ideally, you should mount these up on separate rims. By doing this, I have previously gotten three seasons out them on my wife's Volvo.
  • odiopusodiopus Posts: 47
    I remember you mentioned that changing your brakes is simple... How can one determine if the rotors need to be turned? I'm a litle over 20K and I wanted to change the brakes on my DII myself, but was wondering if there is a site out there that would explains the details of changing the pads??

    Odiopus
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    You might take a look at Discoweb.org -- they have an extensive "Tech" section.

    There are specs for rotor replacement that measure minimum thickness, as well as (I believe) depth of grooves in the swept surface. As for grooves in the rotors, I have got them from picking up stones in river crossings and things, and they have gouged my rotors a little. I just kept using them and the pads mated to the new gouged surface, polished them up with continued use, and all is well. Once they reach minimum thickness however, you better consider changing them... there's the chance a rotor could fail and mechanically lock a wheel at speed.

    As to changing the pads... my DI may be a little different than your DII, but it is soooooo simple! Jack up one side and remove both wheels (so you can rotate them front-to-back later) and remove the bolts holding the caliper to the hub. Don't let the caliper fall so it's hanging from the brake hose. Loose the bleed screw for the slave cylinder and push the pads/pistons back into the calipers until the pistons are ALL the way back in. You'll have a mess of brake fluid so haev newspapers down. When ready, close the bleed screw and then remove the cotter pins that pass thru the two pins that locate the pads in place. Withdraw the pins and out pop the pads! Put in new pads (paying attention to any anti-squeal doodads they may have provided) and slide the pad locating pins back in. Install two new cotter pins and slide the caliper back over the rotor, install its bolts and torque. Make sure there's no brake fluid on the rotor or pads, and then bleed the brakes. Simple! When you start driving her again you'll want to take it easy the first few times you brake, so the pads can mate to the rotor surface (100% contact) and you can slowly heat the pads a few times to "set" the compound and not glaze them over. If your brakes feel at all spongy then you need to bleed them again. Make sure you top off your brake fluid reservoir when finished. Oh, and make sure you set your tire pressures: my stock tires were 28psi front and 38psi rear... if you rotate them you'll want to check that.

    This is just one of the simple jobs you can perform on your Disco... it's a good feeling to think YOU can work on her!

    Best regards, -Bob
  • odiopusodiopus Posts: 47
    Thanks a million! Sounds simple enough. I remember reading something about it on discoweb.org, but the post had already been archived. I found the link after all. The instructions are also up on expeditionexchange.com under the tech section. It's nice to know we can save a few bucks if we had a little time to spare. Dealer costs ranges from $500 to $1000 depending on your area, and that's just for brakes all around. I purchased my pads from roverconnection.com for $200 and a few bucks for delivery. I thought I would stick with OEM pads for now and then try some new pads next time? Any suggestions on where to quality pads at a fair price?

    Odiopus
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Land Rover's MSRP for front and rear pad kits on your DII are $221.11 combined. Here's a little secret for you, RoverConnection buys their parts from US Land Rover dealers, not Land Rover UK. They get bulk quantity wholesale discounts from a few dealers willing to take a lower profit margin for volume sales. Next time you check their price, let your local dealer have a chance to match it. They may agree to it and it could at least save you the freight.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I just went to the local parts store. Here they're called "Schucks"... might be there too? I've tried Wagner and Lockheed pads, both work well, and seem to last about the same. My most recent were Lockheed and if I remember right they had a cool little spring that went into the caliper piston to prevent squeal. I think they were like $25 a pair...

    Have fun! Remember the new cotter pins.
  • pjd1pjd1 Posts: 13
    Disco II to the rescue:
    Today's tale from the frozen North...My good friend called this morning to tell me that his mountaintop driveway had drifted in overnight...
    The snow had drifted in about 1.5- 2 feet deep and was packed like concrete. It was bad enough that he was unable to get his Jeep Cherokee thru it, and his John Deere Diesel tractor wouldn't start because it was too cold. So, he couldn't plow it out either.
    I said I'd see what I could do...I stopped first to pick up some Kerosene to get his tractor going and then I drove up to his house...
    I hestitated at first when I got to the driveway...I didn't know snow could pack this solid...Still I decided to give it a try...The happy result was that I was able to cut two nice ruts for him after running the Disco up and down the driveway three times, and he was able to drive the Jeep out thru them.
    The Disco, the traction control and the Blizzaks
    all got a first rate test of their abilities and didn't let us down. It's always nice to see what this truck will do when you really need it.
    LR: Still the best 4x4xFar
  • Is there an aftermarket oil pan warmer or something to make early morning start up easier in cold climates?
    I live in southern appalachia and we have been having some record cold below zero stuff and my disco is having a bit of trouble in the mornings.
    -5 degrees is probably a heat wave for nanuk and a few others - any suggestions?
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Your local Land Rover dealer can order you a block heater if he doesn't have it in stock.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,927
    They are giving them away in Anchorage - maybe Nanuq can send you one ;-)

    Steve, Host
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