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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Is not slated to show up on US vehicles until the 2004 MY. (I get more than scuttlebutt, I work for LRNA).
     I was just confused by the abbreviation as it was before I had my coffee, I am quite aware of what the center diff lock does. The diff lock was in the earlier transfer case because it was essentially the same case as the Discovery I. The reason it was not activated was because the ETC software was not written to deal with a locking center diff. It could be manually activated, but would make the ABS and ETC malfunction. In late 2001 the parts inside the case that enabled diff lock were removed as a cost saving measure (no sense paying for components that weren't used)There were 2 different Tboxes developed for 2003 MY, but Diff lock was not included in US vehicles. The labels that the service action was for were for UK vehicles that had the CDL installed, it was a mistake on the production line in the UK that led to them being on US vehicles.
  • Tincup - since it seems as if you are in the midst of things.....

    Do you know if the CDL will be an option or standard equipment?

    If an option, do you have any idea of the cost and availability (percentage of vehicles produced with the CDL)?

    It is interesting that a phone call to LRNA brings zero information on this subject ("We are not allowed to discuss future models"), yet you personally seem willing to talk here. Can you get into trouble by talking about this? I hope not.

    I really want a Disco II, but I will wait as long as necessary to buy one with a CDL, as long as I know there is a good chance they will be available. By talking to me about it, LR is not losing a customer.
  • kacykkacyk Posts: 4
    I'm tempted to purchse a 2000 Disco II that's under factory warranty. I realize that these cars are quirky and seem to have some reliability issues but nothing can't be worse than my (I bought it new at the time) 1983 SAAB 900S. I've been hearing that whatever problems there are, that they surface early and once fixed, stay that way. Si I'm assuming that a 30K mile Disco II will have the bugs out. Also, I do plan on an extended warranty. Any thoughts or recommendations? kacykang@hotmail.com Thank you! Kacy
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    I can't go into specifics on future models, and have no idea of cost. The owner care dept. are not allowed to give future model info, and if the CDL wasn't already available in other markets, I wouldn't mention it at all.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I'd take a long hard look at the vehicle's history by VIN. That's just long enough for someone to be thoroughly aggravated by the truck and get rid of it. Tincup can tell you the history.

    On the other hand, you might have a good deal there. If the history is clean (no recurring visits to dealer) then you'll save a bundle over the new price and have a truck that will last for YEARS.

    I bought my DI at 9 months of age and 11k miles. I saved about $10k over the new price, and I did the dirty work and got all the bugs worked out. It was aggravating (and the DIIs are a LOT better than my '96 in that regard) but now I'm really glad I did it. Your DII will be head and shoulders better for initial build quality than my '96 was.

    To consider: at 35k miles you're looking at a transmission service. It's pricey... see if they'll agree to do that service for free when you buy it. It doesn't hurt to ask!

    Regards, -Bob
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Forgive me if I'm poking my nose in here, but it sounds to me like you want to go offroad with your Disco. If so, I'd recommend a late DI. It has better overhangs than the DII, and it's got better visibility out the cabin. The leather is more durable, and it's a bit more spartan inside (less painful when you get it all muddy). The axles have a lot more moving parts, but they're still tough as nails. It has plenty of power, doesn't have HDC and ETC and XYZ and all the other mumbo-jumbo you really don't need for offroading, and it has the manual locking center diff. Put a Detroit locker in the rear and a TrueTrac in the front and you're unstoppable.

    And the money you save will pay for all these toys as well. :)

    Just my $.02 -Bob
  • I need some info about the '03 disco se.I am contemplating purchasing one but I believe ford is the parent company. I am not a ford fan (heck no) but I am wondering if this vehicle is a dressed up expedition. And does it share any parts with any ford products. I know the British autos are not the best but I want nothing to do with any ford product.
  • Trying to buy a Michelin tires. Went to Costco and shop around. They don't recommend putting in the Michelin Cross Terrain the said it is not suited for LR Disco. Michelin Tech support confirmed it when I called them up to verify. Costco suggested the Michelin 4X4 XPC which is $193++.

    Any suggestion on what kind of tires that is best suited for Disco II. I need to change the two front tires. I'll be moving the rear tires to the front and have the 2 new tires installed at the back. I have 34K miles on my truck and I am here in the Bay Area

    Thanks for the help
  • Try the Pirelli Scorpion S/T. Excellent tire and a lot cheaper than the Michelin.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    No, I don't believe you'd find a single part from any Ford that would fit the Disco. It's a truly distinct vehicle. At this point I believe Ford is streamlining management etc., and in the future you'll likely begin to see hybrid parts that "will" work on the Rover... and begin to migrate over there. Just not now.
  • kacykkacyk Posts: 4
    I did buy the 2000 Disco. It's the Bright Red "Red Rover" edition. I did call the dealership and checked the warranty history by VIN number. This is very important for any used Disco purchase. The dealership can spot a lemon in a few key strokes.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Welcome, and congratulations! You're in for a long and pleasant experience with your Rover.

    First thing I'd do if I were you, I'd replace ALL the fluids on her. It's work you can easily do yourself, and you'll wind up with a LOT of lube to recycle. This gets you to a known point in the maintenance schedule. Then replace all the fluids once a year, and the motor oil and filter every 3k.

    I know this sounds like a lot, but a mechanic at the dealership here said it best: "oil is cheaper than metal".

    Transfer box, auto trans, diffs, swivel housings (I don't believe you have these anymore), brake fluid, power steering fluid (mine is ATF), coolant. You might go two years on the coolant.

    Rotate the tires front to back, and re-check the pressures when you're done: 28 front and 38 rear. While the wheels are off, take a look at the brake pads; mine last about 17k miles.

    Enjoy!
  • Nanuq:

    I really don't want a D1 for several reasons:

    I want a new vehicle. I have been burned too many times when buying used.
    I want the alphabet soup - for road use ABS and ETC can't be beat.
    I want the bigger engine and the better brakes of the '03.
    I do not plan to use the truck primarily as an off-roader. I just want the capability for those times the situation gets dicey back at the campsite.
    I intend to lift the truck and install bigger tires, as well as install tougher bumpers with better clearance, so the departure angle isn't critical for me.
    I just plain want a D2! With a CDL!!
  • Call me old fashioned, but I think a traction control should be either mechanical (such as locking diffs) or electronic (such as ETC). Fitting both to the same vehicle will either be a waste of money, or worse the 2 systems will work against each other and either reduce traction or break something. I have had 4 Discoveries now and the first 3 had CDL and the most recent ETC. I can say without reservation that ETC is a far far more effective traction tool. In the past the best offroad traction tool was simply knobbly offroad tyres. Now ETC can make a DII with road tyres "walk" through some situations that a DI with CDL and mud terrains would have failed.

    Landrover recognised all of that, which is why they disabled the CDL. They are only putting it back cos of demand from people who want "all the toys" even if some of them are now obsolete.

    Just my 2 pennies....
  • Maybe this is a stupid question, but I figure that somebody here will know the answer:

    Listening to a local radio program today, I heard a discussion about the success of the H2. One of the guys went on talking about a tax credit offered by the US government for buyers of vehicles 6000 lbs or over (apparently this qualifies them as "agricultural vehicles" and makes them available to a $15K credit on income taxes). They say that this brings down the cost of an H2 from $50K to $35K. Supposedly there are 40 or so makes/models sold in the US that are over this weight.

    Looking at the panel on the drivers door of my 2000 DiscoII, it says that the vehicle weight is 6,064 lbs.

    Does anybody know about this? Is it real? If so, I could possibly still go back and restate my taxes for 2000 on.

    Any insight is appreciated.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Details have been posted here: taxstud1(12/31/02):Toyota Sequoia forum.

    tidester, host
  • Greetings all,

    Having experienced the joy of LR overseas (in my youth) I always wanted one. However, for the past ten years the wife and I have owned only Volvo's. The new Volvo suv is 1)overpriced and 2)too tight in the back for someone 6'2. So, yesterday we bought a 99 Disco (superclean) with only 32K. Tincup, I bought a carfax report on it before going to the dealer and it looked good; but could you check VIN SALTY1241XA202838 for me. Dealer showed me a report stating that they had performed the 30K service and replaced the brake pads at that time. It needs new tires, and based on this board I will get the Scorpions. Thanks.
  • kbowenkbowen Posts: 58
    At the risk of being accused of continuing "ranting" by Tincup, I nevertheless have a question for nanuq. I personally visited four tire dealerships looking for a tire in the 18" size that is suitable for some serious off roading such as rock crawling and the like. One dealer took a particular interest in my problem and made an exhaustive search. The FINAL answer: There is absolutely NO SUCH tire presently being made by any company, bar none.

    He did suggest though that I might try the Bridgestone Dueler in the 265/60-R18 size (255/55-R18 is the recommended size). He thought it would fit, but noted that it would raise the overall height by about an inch.

    Hence, my question to Nanuq. Have you ever "jacked" you lady up and has it caused any adverse consequences such as increased roll over potential that you were concerned about?

    Also I point out that I can get excellent off road tires in the 16" size if I want to change rims. (The 2001 DII had 16" rims without ACE; The ACE option, which I have, comes with only 18" rims.) However, my dealership told me if I buy the 16" Land Rover rims, they will NOT mount them as they are not recommended with ACE. So, here we are again, a vehicle I love and bought for off roading, and one of the most capable in the world, with NO tire option to do the job. What a waste. Anyway Nanuq, your advice will be appreciated.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I've been off living in the land of guitars lately, drooling over a Lady of Certain Vintage (which should be here in a couple days). Just thought I'd wander by.

    About tires, wheels and ABS: there is SO much to be said on this topic! Some observations:

    1) Stock tire diameter is adequate for most, but going taller will get your diffs higher off the ground... good thing.

    2) Taller usually also means wider... and your big tires will hit your wheel openings on extreme angulation. Also possibly your radius arms and wheel well innards. Not a good thing.

    3) ABS systems are calibrated to "know" how fast your tire's contact patch (to the ground) is decelerating. If you up your tire size, you up your radius/circumference... and you can fool the ABS into misreading your traction.

    4) It's not always a bad thing to fool your ABS.

    5) ABS senses the difference in rotational speeds between all four tires (on a Rover) and I suspect does some fancy calculations to guess your "speed" based on RPM vs. gear selection. I am guess this because my ABS activates when I'm stuck, spinning all 4 wheels equally in snow, and I stab the brakes to facilitate a quick shift.

    6) Given a taller tire w/larger contact patch (more traction) vs. a larger radius and slower reaction to braking vs. ABS guessing what your traction is doing... I would bet big dollars that ABS won't get confused even measurably with a tire that's only a little taller than stock. I can back this up with my own experience: my ABS works (worked) great and I've run 1" and 2" taller tires.

    7) A tire 1" taller than stock put my speedometer spot-on. It's dead accurate now.

    8) 16" wheels from the earlier Rangie should bolt right onto a DII (they use the same axles).

    9) Your ETC should be no more affected by tall tires than your ABS is. If anything it should operate more aggressively than stock, allowing a bit more wheelspin than with stock size tires (relative radius thing).

    Conclusion: Go to a tire shop other than your Rover dealership and ask them to mount up some gnarly 16" tires on some Rangie wheels and put 'em on your DII. Stick with an inch taller than stock and *slightly* wider... you'll rub a little over big obstacles but not too bad. Make sure you get the fifth wheel and tire as a spare; if you're out playing and flat a tire you'll still have to get back out again the same way you came in.

    Bear in mind that this is simply my advice and if you modify your Rover and roll it, you're on your own. Being the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave, you already know this.

    I hope this helps, -Bob
  • I went snowshoeing last weekend and coming back the road was slippery with packed snow/ice. I noticed that at low speeds with quick braking the front tires would lock up but I could not get the back tires to skid. I do not have ABS and I am running Pro Comp mud terrains. Do you think this is normal or are my rear brakes not working?
    Craig
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