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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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Comments

  • kscctsksccts Posts: 140
    The only purpose of ABS is to keep the brakes from locking in a hard, panic type stop. They do allow you to possibly steer around an obstacle at the expense of possibly prolonging your braking distance. Overall, a safety improvement.
  • I have always liked Discovery's and I have a friend that is getting rid of his 99 with low miles. I am getting a decent price for it, but I am wondering about reliability. Does anyone have experience with the 99 Discovery (it is not a Series II, it's the older model)? Is this going to become a drain to keep repaired? Is it just a bad idea to buy a 5 (almost 6) year old car? How about what is going to happen to the value of the car with the new LR3 in 2005?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    This is something we've discussed here several times; just search back thru the posts for lots of good thoughts.

    The '99 was about the pinnacle of the SI line, and you shouldn't worry about it being 5 or 6 years old... what matters is the miles. You say it has low miles... how many exactly? Any part will wear out, and at around 100k miles you can start watching for failures of the alternator, power steering pump seals and *maybe* the ABS pump.

    Mine is a '96 with 92k miles and it still drives and operates as new. Over the last 6 years it has cost me 5 sets of brake pads, lots of little light bulbs, one viscous coupler (water pump) and many oil/lube changes. That's all. I use it hard offroad all the time. Nothing breaks, but things do wear out.

    My '96 is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, hands down. That's included lots of Fords, Hondas and Chryslers. The *other* car in the garage is a Ford and I've sunk nearly $6,000 into it over the last 2 years. At this point I can't afford to get rid of it.

    It is not a poor choice to buy a 5- or 6-year old vehicle if you plan to keep it indefinitely. Especially if it's designed to be durable. If it's been well cared for there are many good years left in it. You can find out a lot of its service history by VIN at a Rover service center.

    Good luck, -Bob
  • Thank you for replying, Bob. I went through quite a few posts yesterday and all in all it sounds pretty positive. Your response just confirms what I was thinking. It sounds like a '99 with only 56k is going to be a pretty good gamble. It sounds like the S1 fits the bill pretty nicely. Thank you.

    Anyone else with an opinion?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I'd say he's taken the truck "over the hump". It has enough miles to have been used regularly, and that's good. If it was REALLY low miles then I'd say either he doesn't need the truck or it was such a gremlin-ridden pig that he hates it and he's dumping it. This smells like a good deal to me.
  • here is a little bit of info that might give you some help.
    I leased a 2002 sd discovery and the list price was 43900.00 Canadian and after 1 and a half years the offer to by from my local dealer is 19000.00 It has 50,000 Kms and i would have to take a 11,000 dollar loss to get out. I think that i got a bad one and thats why i want out. This might give you some ideas of how much money you WILL loose.
  • To those I might offend, I apologize in advance. I don't understand it when people are so worried about the resale value of their cars. Are they buying cars as an investment? Unless a car is bought through a lease (in which case resale value doesn't apply), I thought the intent was to keep the car. If one is inclined to change their mind often about their choice of cars, leasing might be a better way to go. As for those who fear that reliability might be an issue then maybe that isn't the car for them. I maybe mechanically challenged but I do my homework before purchasing my car. This includes the financial aspect of owning it. If it turns out I still want the car, I go for it. If resale value is such a worry, perhaps going with the manufacturer and model du jour would be the thing to do. It seems that resale value is related to whatever is the most popular at the time. I suppose this is the simple rule of supply and demand. As for me, I could care less if my car was popular or not. What matters to me is I like it. If it turns out to be popular as well then that's just a bonus (I guess). In spite of the negatives that were revealed in my research, I felt the Disco was still what I wanted. This is why I opted for it. You can disagree but I am not interested in any debates. Just voicing my opinion.
  • kscctsksccts Posts: 140
    Very well said. No matter what vehicle you buy, it is a depreciating asset. If all one cares about is resale value then I would recommend leasing.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Hmmmmmmm. How about early SIII Rovers? I bet a good one is worth more now than it was new.

    Others to consider:
    64 1/2 Thunderbird
    65 Mustang
    66 Camaro
    69 Chevelle
    63/64 Corvette
    65 Sunbeam Tiger
    and of course, the 65 AC Cobra.
  • kscctsksccts Posts: 140
    Averaged out, the yearly return, even on a lot of collector cars, is not very good. Plus from whatever raw dollar return you have, you must deduct the time value of money, insurance, maintenence, as well as possible restoration costs. Of course, there are exceptions but essentially every auto is a depreciating asset. Outside of a few vehicles, no one should be buying cars as an investment. Unforutnately, this is a hard concept to get through to a lot of people.
  • peeetepeeete Posts: 136
    I just bought a 2004 SE new, and I have no doubt that it will depreciate like a rock. However, the Disco has a unique attribute. It will be, for may years to come, one of the best off-road vehicles in the world. The legions of die-hard off-road fans will keep buying them used. The declining supply will keep them in demand, if for nothing else as parts cars. (Maybe I will dismantle mine and sell the parts on ebay when the time comes!)

    I think the Disco over the long term will be a much better "investment" that a ford taurus or an explorer.
  • kscctsksccts Posts: 140
    Exactly. You're happy. That is what matters. If all people want is transportation, then buy a corolla or a civic. Something cheap with good gas mileage.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,565
    I tend to drive my cars a decade or more but I do worry about resale in the first two or three years of ownership. If someone hits my ride and totals it and the value has dropped like a stone, then I'm probably going to lose money replacing it.

     

    When you lease, you generally get gap insurance for such situations.

     

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • My rear, passenger side door lock doesn't always unlock. After a second press of the button, the lock moves. How can I fix this problem BEFORE I need a replacement? I remember reading about applying lube to the locks. Can someone describe this procedure?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    You can try squirting lube into the latch mechanism from the jamb side, but I don't think it will do much good. What's needed is to open up the door and lube/adjust it. It is super easy, definitely a DIY job. Google the terms and see if there aren't links to discoweb.org or lrna or atlantic-british with tips. Heck, look here at Edmunds first... maybe there's some info here.

     

    Most doors are simple: the armrest has some bolts, remove them. Then there are screws at the door latch, remove them. Then go around the door and pop the innter facing loose from the door frame (via a million little plastic fasteners that pop into place) and voila... the inner face is off. Loosen the plastic water barrier sheeting and lube/adjust. Piece of cake.

     

    While you're in there, lube the mechanism for the window lift too.

     

    Best regards, -Bob
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Heck, look here at Edmunds first... maybe there's some info here.

     

    Be sure to try the Advanced Search feature - just click on the link beneath the search box in the left column.

     

    tidester, host
  • botat1botat1 Posts: 12
    We looked and did our homework,we drove a variety of vehicles,and decided to purchase our 2oo1 disco .My wife and i like and enjoy the car,resale was number 10 on the list of concerns back in 2001,today we could care less, if we ever plan to sell it,we will deal with that monkey when the time comes!.For now we will deal with today,for tomorrow has enough trouble of its own.Just putting in my 2 cents today!! tomorrow ?? could go down to 1 cent.
  • kkonekkone Posts: 61
    I have a 2003 Disco with 18" wheels. I want to put some 16" Mirage rims with 255/70/16 BF Goodrich All Terrains instead of the stock 255/65/16. My truck is stock in height. BF Goodrich does not make a 255/65/16. Has anyone mounted these slightly taller tires on their Disco?
  • I'm thinking of buying a 2002 Disco II SD7 and it has only the stock radio/cassette player. Several years ago I had an earlier model and then it was nearly impossible to install an aftermarket stereo/CD player due to wiring problems (it would only take the LR single CD radio for $600).

     

    Is this still the case with the 02' model.

     

    Thanks for your input.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    From another site:

     

    Discovery

    ----------------------------

    235/70-16: Stock tire size.

     

    205/80-16: Stock size in many other countries. same height as 235/70-16.

     

    255/65-16: same height as stock

     

    225/75-16: little taller than stock

     

    245/70-16: little taller and wider than the stock size. reportedly, no need for lift, just minor trimming to fit those tires.

     

    245/75-16: popular size for OME suspension lifted vehicles. require slight trimming on the rear wheel well fender, and may also call for adjustment on the steering bumpstops.

     

    215/85-16: same height as 245/75-16. but narrower. seems to be preferred for the snow and mud.

     

    265/70-16: about as tall as 245/75-16, but wider. will require more trimming and steering bump stops adjustments along with taller bump stops over the rear axle.

     

    265/75-16: almost 32" tall. Same as stock NAS D90 tires. Will require even more trimming.

     

    235/85-16: same height as 265/75-16 but narrower. And seems to be the most popular size with OME lift.

     

    255/85-16: about 33" tall...very few people have fitted this size. Lots of butchering for this one.

     

    285/75-16: about 33" also... but very very wide.

     

    Discovery Series II

    --------------------------

     

    255/65-16: Stock tire size.

     

    255/70-16: Just a bit taller than stock.

     

    265/75-16: Taller and wider than stock, possible to fit without lift. minor rubbing. Looks real balanced with mild OME lift.

     

    285/75-16: even taller than 265/75-16, r requires a bit more lift than the regular OME lift. some have fitted OME751 from Discovery series I, and changed SLS sensor in the rear to achieve almost 3 inches. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.

     

    255/85-16: a bit taller than 285/75-15 but narrower. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.
  • kkonekkone Posts: 61
    Hey Nanuq:

     

    Thanks for the Tire Fitment. I don't plan on lifiting my truck. Do you know if there are any rubbing problems with 255/70/16? Speedo error? Reduced gas milage?

     

    Thanks,

    Kevin
  • Any ideas what would cause the dashboard to light up like a Christmas Tree??

     

    I was sitting at idle at a drive -thru. All of sudden the warning chimes binged and 6 lights came on. I pulled over turned the truck off/back on and it went away.

     

    Cause for concern?

     

    The six lucky winners were

    Brake

    TC

    ABS

    HDC

    Self Level

    Off Road

     

    I have 3 before but the first time for 6.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I went with bigger tires on my SI Disco, but I don't have the actual size handy. They're about 2" larger in diameter than stock. They rub a little under extreme angulation but it's liveable. The one plus is that they completely corrected my speedo error! Now comparing my speedometer to my GPS indicated speed, it's spot on. My mileage hasn't changed that I'm aware of but I do have another inch beneath my diffs now.

     

    Best regards, -Bob
  • I have a major problem which my local LR dealer has been unable to find/diagnose/repair and I truly need help with this. The problem is that my Disco (2001) will intermittently refuse to start. This has been going on since May of 2004 and happens approximately once every 3 weeks. IF there is a pattern to this -- it appears to fail to start after having been driven at highway speeds for at least an hour and then having been parked for an hour or so. In other words, it always happens that I am stranded when I have driven out of town. However, I have now learned that if I wait at least 2 hours, it will start just fine. I initially took it to my Land Rover dealer and they were unable to locate a problem and told me I would need to bring it in when it happened (they are 90+ minutes away from my home). By coincidence, I was in their vacinity for an appointment the very next day and it refused to start. Had it towed in and they found a problem with the security system and replaced the BES module. However, the failures continued. After it failed again, I had it towed to the dealership (which took several hours) and by the time it got there, it started without a problem. They kept it a week, but could not reproduce the failure to start. I had thought that it was related to heat (both engine and hot weather) since it was most problemmatic during our hot summer (coastal N.C.) and seems to start after the engine has cooled significantly. However, it happened again just last week -- and it certainly wasn't hot then. Any ideas/advice/comments would be greatly appreciated. I have only 7K left on my warranty and no one can fix my problem. If I can't solve this, I am going to have to sell it due to this unreliability. I have been stranded too many times.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    The Series I Disco has a fuel rail that forms a loop in the vee of the intake manifold to feed the injectors. When I've had a hard climb with mine and park it, then come back in less than an hour, the fuel in the lines is vaporized and it refuses to run correctly. If I get it running and keep it going with the throttle for a couple minutes, the fuel pump pushes nice cold fuel up the lines and around the fuel rail, displacing the vaporized gas... then she runs like a scalded cat again. If I just put on the key and wait, I can hear the fuel pump running the system up to pressure but it can't push the vaporized fuel from the rail. If I can get it running (99% of the time) then all is well. She stumbles like crazy at first and then quickly gets over it.

     

    Try taking yours for a long hard drive, recreating the conditions under which it will fail, then parking it with the hood up so she cools faster. If that helps then look hard at the fuel delivery system... it will cool down lots faster than the engine block/manifolds.

     

    I hope this helps, -Bob
  • Nanuq: Thanks very much for your suggestion -- I am ready to try anything. However, when it "fails to start", the engine simply won't turn over so I'm not sure that I can get it running. I will, however, certainly take it out and try it.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I had a similar issue and my dealer spent thousands of dollars trying to fix it. In the end it turned out to be simply a bad battery.

     

    I have also had good success with cleaning the fuse block beneath the hood. On my SI Disco it lies on the (NAS) passenger side, midpoint of the engine, about even with the rocker covers. It's maybe 8" long by 3" by 3" and has bunches of thick cables coming in its underside. It's made of black plastic. I just take off the cover and remove each link or connector one at a time, clean each metallic surface with a pencil eraser, to ensure good electrical connection, blow out the crud, and reassemble. I was having all kinds of bizarre electrical issues and this 15-minute job solved them.

     

    Good luck!
  • I am now also wondering about something "electrical". Noted today when I filled my gas tank that the gas needle only moved up very very gradually and was still not showing full when I stopped about 20 miles later. When I cranked it later today to come home from work, the gauge did indicate that the tank was full. This was the second time that I have noticed this happen with the gas gauge. Does that sound related to you or simply coincidental????
  • kscctsksccts Posts: 140
    This happens all the time to me if I leave the key in the accessory position or if I leave the truck running while I fill up. Eventually, the gauge reads full. Odd, but I don't really find it a problem.

     

    2000 DII
  • kacykkacyk Posts: 4
    I had a 2000 Disco that I absolutely loved but it was in the shop for little things all the time. I finally sold it but have missed it as well. I'm looking at a 2003 with only 7,000 miles on it. It will be my wife's car. What has been your experience with '03 Disco's? Please, only comments from real owners please. We have 5 kids and I do not want my wife to be stranded. Please send comments to kacykang@hotmail.com. Thank you. Kacy
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