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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Congrats, highmile! We'll expect regular and frequent reports on your experiences!

    tidester
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    SUVs
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I am stuck at this figure. 9-90 mph, a/c non-a/c, loaded or unloaded what a great rig!!! Just got back from LA and it drove like a dream. All the Exploders and Durangos had to get out of my way on the Grapevine. I was a little concerned with a low hp, small V-8, but what power (torque) this little rig produces. Still no snow or rain yet, Boo-Hoo. 11000 miles and still not a squeak, sqwak, shimmy or bump. Lord Lucas Be Praised.
  • denver8denver8 Member Posts: 42
    I may be off track a little on this site but I noticed a while back that you changed the brake pads on your truck. I have never done this myself but it seems like a pretty easy job. I have a D-90 but I am assuming the process is similar. Maybe Wasko has some pointers??? My question is; how hard is it to compress the pistons before putting the new pads in? The Haynes manual says to use a clamp or block of wood as a lever to push the pistons back. That type of instruction usually means the process may require at least a six pack... Any thoughts???
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    Brake pad replacements on any vehicle are a rather simple task. Compressing the calipers are done easily by using a 6" C-clamp and one of your old brake pads. The old brake pad protects the piston and allows even compression of the piston. The only thing to remember is to compress the piston slowly and if you have added any hydraulic fluid between pad replacements, remove some from the reservior so as not to overflow the reservior during compression.

    Tincup: Since many Landrover dealerships are also paired up with Cadillac dealerships, how will a Ford owned product be marketed along side a GM product?
  • everdieverdi Member Posts: 10
    i notice in my disco II (2001) that the passenger seat vibrates at speeds over 15 mph. increasing as the speed goes up. other parts of the cabin don't. it's tolerable but not normal. i took it to the dealer and they said that it is normal. they checked the seat and it was tight. they said they drove a 2002 and it does the same thing. what can this be? and is anyone else noticing this occuring?
    Also, their seems to be a small shudder (occaisionally) in the steering wheel when driving at speed and braking. they also checked the rotors/brakes and said everything was normal. told me to put some more miles on it since i only have 1400 and the pads will wear down causing less shake. does this make sense?
    can anyone tell me the possible reasons for the steering wheel to shake when driving? if it was balancing as i first suspected then shouldn't do it all the time ( it doesn't)?
  • cwigintoncwiginton Member Posts: 14
    I too have noticed this in my Disco II. I also had the same thing happen in my old BMW 525. Maybe it is a BMW thing.

    BTW, I was told it was normal in the BMW, so I never really thought anything about it in my Rover.
  • dl7265dl7265 Member Posts: 1,381
    Test drove a 2002 Disco this afternoon, the Frisco location is a centre so we did the rock course thing, pretty impressive , ive done the hill decent in a X5 before but this was pretty amazing, that said

    i asked about the brake problems mentioned all over this board, boy did i get a Whipping for that ! Blasphmy ! i was informed that they never heard of any brake problems and he was the director of some 4 wheel club that has like 50 Disco members with no problems.

    anyways pricing: said there was little mark up then admites there was 3k on the 2002 and offer 4.9 % interest but no price discount, and offered 2k off and 3.9% on some left over 2001 models. Didnt someone mention getting a base SD for close to 30k ? thanks in advance for the help.

    Regards,
    DL
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I also had questions on this forum about the odd brake feel of my rig when braking and traversing an uneven road surface. I now know that it is just the ABS system doing its job. This pulsation can also be transferred up to the steering wheel, thus alarming many drivers of a vibration problem. I now realize that this pulse is normal. My only concern with DII brakes is the soft pedal. I also learned that this can be solved by a visit to the dealer for a ABS/Brake bleed, hardening the pedal. I still have not visited my dealer, since a simple quick, single pump of the brakes is all that is needed for a rock hard pedal. For a killer deal on a DII look for a demo or rental return. My SD, with under 6K was under $27,000 and it is not stripped. It still has most of the features as a SE except for leather, fog lights, sunroofs and CD player. It has the full 4/50 warranty and all of the annoying bugs have already been worked out. I still have not been back to my dealer and I am now approaching 12K with a constant 16 mpg.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I can't believe it! My rig has 12k on it and already I have had to change the oil and filter 4 times, change fluid in both differentials, rotate the tires and put on a new set of wiper blades. I hope this does not scare any potential DII customers from purchasing with my record of maintenance so far.
    P.S. Still don't know the name of my dealers' service manager yet. Go Figure.
  • bakcabakca Member Posts: 33
    ...and I thought I drove alot, but I 'only' have 7k miles in 4 months.

    Although it sounds easy to do your own maintenance I can barely keep up with my house so I have been using the dealer (oil changes and a small coolant leak). The service is great, far better than any other dealer. They really want to take care of you. I have never seen a car dealership where everybody seems to love their job.

    So how often should the tires be rotated anyway.
  • dl7265dl7265 Member Posts: 1,381
    thanks for the tips. its nice to get informative post instead of attacks like some boards, anywayssss.

    pricing: the 2001 was a demo but only had 150 miles, for 2k off but its still 31k and the 3.9% financing, its seems in the Dallas are there arent very many allocations of demos to choose from, it was a friend thats a avid hunter that told me about a great demo deal he got on an Disco. This is to accompany our 3er, so while im used to much better gas mileage , i could live with 16 , since its rated at 13/16. What MPG has everyone else been getting ??

    Thanks Again,
    DL
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    There is a dealer out here in California that receives 50+ demos to his dealership every November. Most under 6K and with full warranties. MPG, have you ever talked to any Explorer owner or Durango owner? The V6 Explorers are getting on average 15 mpg. Troopers with a V6 are in the 13-14 mpg area. I am estatic that my DII gets a constant 16 mpg with all the V8 power it produces.
    Bakca, I have been rotating my tires, front to rear, every 5,000 miles.
  • dl7265dl7265 Member Posts: 1,381
    OK thanks, ill be in San Diego in a few weeks ill check it out.

    Far as any other suv we never even considered it. basically we are not huge suv fans , but in my mind the Disco is different not just a high wheelbase car.And if it gets that kind of mileage with full time 4 wheeldrive i can live with it.

    thanks again,
    DL
  • waskowasko Member Posts: 103
    I haven't tried to change my own brake pads yet on the Defender or the DII. I've had the same concern - it's more that I've never done it before.

    If I could do it in the presence of someone knowledgeable, someone who could verify my work once, I'd feel comfortable in doing it after that. It's just that first time that makes me nervous :)

    If anyone has a digital camcorder and could convince their spouse to tape them changing the brakepads, I could encode it and stream it. Heck, would make a good video for www.discoweb.org to show all of us 'under-confident' folks how to do it :)

    Thanks, wasko
  • jake3895jake3895 Member Posts: 7
    Just picked up my 2002 Disco SE and was wondering what the 3 buttons just under the mirror are for. The sales rep must have told me but I forgot. Are they for the Homelink system? They don't seem to be for map lights since nothing goes on when I press them. I know that the mirror has a sensor to regulate glare and I recall that the middle button might be used to shut off the system. The problem is that my 2002 came with a 2001 manual and the mirror buttons are not listed and the homelink page looks different than what the vehicle shows.
    Thanks for any help with this.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Wow you guys are getting active in here! I'm just back from an extended playing trip up at high altitudes. :) Maybe Wasko knows what I've been "up" to.

    About the brakes question: this is THE easiest and most rewarding job on the face of the planet. Honest, if your truck is on stands with both wheels on one side off, you can change both pairs of pads, fore and aft, in 10 minutes. It is a SNAP. And while you're at it, rotate the tires front-to-back. To do the pads, there's a couple pins to pull, then you slide the pads up and out. It's that hard.

    THE BIG WORD OF WARNING: The ABS pump DOES NOT like dirty brake fluid being pushed back up into it. So when you put in the new pads, crack open the bleed screw and THEN push the pistons back into the calipers, letting the fluid leak out. You can push them in with your thumbs. Push them all the way in flush with the calier body, then the new pads go in easy and clear the rotors easy. Be careful, first time you move it you may have to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times to get them back out where you want them.

    Go ahead and rotate the tires, double check your pressures and then do the other side. It's a wonderfully easy job.

    Ocean: Hi!!!! I hope your baby is treating you right! Mine is running like a scalded cat. 66,700 miles and not ONE LICK of trouble in 3 years... since the day after the warranty expired (wink). WAIT! What am I saying????!!!!!

    Lord Lucas Disclaimer: MY TRUCK RUNS LIKE ABSOLUTE HELL AND PARTS FALL OFF IT CONSTANTLY... usually in the most ridiculously nasty, inaccessible, snowy, icy, fun-to-be remote places... hint hint nudge nudge.

    Happy Holidays everyone!
  • rp_fencerrp_fencer Member Posts: 13
    Anybody selling or who knows somebody who is selling a keyless remote for LR Disco II. Lost mine while in a car show in SF (darnnnn!)lucky for us my wife brought her key.

    Any idea how much it will cost for the key and the programming. Thanks
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    I recently picked up a '99 DII and it came w/only one keyless remote key. The dealer is asking ~$120, so I am most likely not going that route. It's only $10 or so for them to cut you a spare, which is what I will most likely do. I don't know that you can re-cut a keyless entry key to fit your DII, but I believe that you can get any key reprogrammed at the dealer. Also, BEWARE of the keyless entry fobs that people are advertising on eBay, etc....the older Disco I keyless fobs do not work on the DII.
  • smokymansmokyman Member Posts: 12
    95 LR Disco: The cruise control works intermittently. No pattern and it will cut out sometimes after working for 1/2 hour or so.
    Also, I ordered the Haynes repair manual and am told it is back ordered by every source. Any body else having that problem?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Any other symptoms? Does it hunt at idle, with erratic RPM? It may be your throttle position indicator isn't talking to the ECU; the TPI will develop "dead" spots over time. Or the lines leading to the throttle body get gummed up... there's a "T" fitting in particular that the manual will have you clean out. Check the connections to everything, looking for things that might get warm (and loose) and vibrate a little.

    Good luck, -Bob
  • rickroverrickrover Member Posts: 601
    I haven't been here for ages and ages - good to see you are still holding down the Land Rover fort.

    I'm still in Florida and my old Range Rover is still in Colorado. I've got a BMW X5 3.0 now - it's perfect for Florida and the very limited off roading I do here.
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    Hi all,

    On my first long trip(~1800 mi. round trip) I developed a transmission fluid leak. I have scheduled a service visit w/the dealer later this week, but I was curious if any harm is done by driving until then. It appears that a rather large amount of fluid has leaked out.

    Thanks!!
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Howdy! Long time no see! It sounds like Florida life is doing you well. Better sit down, Wasko's in Washington state and he's got a D90 now and we're all insane with jealousy.

    Jempgh: are you SURE it's the transmission? Your power steering sysem uses ATF too and those hoses are notorious for coming loose. Simple job with a flat blade screwdriver to tighten them, or a nut driver.

    Get her up to temp and then idling in neutral pull the auto trans dipstick (yellow handle on my DI, passenger side) and see if it's registering on the dipstick. If not, g-e-n-t-l-y add ATF until it's up to full. DON'T overfill it! You're probably okay with the trans, these things are utterly bulletproof.

    If the trans is good, then do the same drill: idling in park, remove the cap to the power steering sump: beside the radiator, driver side, mine has a big "ZF" on the cap. There are hash marks on the feeler, wipe it off and then drop her in, but don't screw it in. Remove and see if the fluid's up to the hash marks. If not, get some ATF in there pronto... your pump is expensive.

    As long as there are no nasty sounds you're probably fine. Both the power steering and auto trans systems hold a lot of fluid. But don't take chances, check your levels and keep them up within range until your service.

    Good luck! -Bob
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    Bob, thanks for the insight...I'll try to get to it tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Also, I will qualify my answers here as those of a novice/newbie to repair work. As best as I can tell the fluid is primarily on the transfer case, around what appears to be a connecting hose(filler tube?). I can't see any other areas that look suspect at this point, although without the benefit of a lift I can't be certain. At the very worst I can get it in to the dealer Thursday and I don't have a lot of driving to do b/t now and then....Did enough over the last week! Thanks again.

    Cheers,

    Jon
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I noticed that your rig is a DII so Nanuqs' advise about checking the tranny level won't work. There isn't a transmission dipstick or filler tube on the DIIs. I searched for a while on my rig on its last service. Tranny refill or service is a dealer item. With other cars I have had tranny fluid leak out of the driveline seal and the side covers where the linkage is located. Good Luck.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Thanks, wow... no filler tube? Whew, what's the world coming to?!

    It's good to have you here to answer specific questions for the DII crowd.

    -Bob
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    Yea, its kind of like the day that I went to grease my brand new 1975 Dodge van and lo and behold there were no grease zerks. Perman-lube is what they called it. I guess they figured that you cause more damage to the ball joints and u-joints by introducing moisture, dust, dirt and incompatable greases through the lube process. Have you ever not changed your tranny fluid and filter when suddenly a wind started to blow? Go Figure.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    No kidding. I'm a firm believer in changing filters and lubes often, and I'd just go nuts not being able to do it!

    'Course you generate one impressive heap 'o dirty lube when you switch out all the fluids, but just think of the happy metals in there swimming in nice clean lubricant.

    Say, on the DII do you have a yoke/Hookes joint arrangement for the front end? The DI has swivel balls on each side full of 90w and CV joints, and it's sure stiff when it's really cold out. Just wondering... someone said they've gone to simple yokes like everyone else, and that just seems anti-Roveresque. No swivel pins to preload???? The heresy! What's the world coming to!! It was bad enough to lose the trunion bushes, but a Hookes joint? I'd say that's a big step backward from DI's "last-forever" design. Sure the swivel seals leak... big deal. The CVs last forever.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The Discovery II has gone to the same suspension as the Range Rover, with CV joints and boots. These have proven to be just as reliable as the swivel joints, and are less costly to manufacture and service. It basically replaces 27 separate parts with 9 parts.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    The days of the old 90W gear lube is almost forgotten now. Even Chevy and Ford now advertise full synthetics in their gear boxes. My manual transmission in my old Dodge van didn't even have 90w in it anymore. Straight cut gears and automatic transmission or synthetic fluids are now the norm. Too many women, I guess, complained that their rigs were hard to shift when cold and were noisy. I know it is just in my head, but I feel that my rig runs alot smoother now that I have changed my axle fluids. Many owners also report better gas mileage and performance with the new synthetics in their motors, trannies and axles.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I hear you. I use synthetics in my transfer case and diffs... usually an 85/140w. But in the swivel balls it's good old straight-weight 80w or 90w synthetic. I know there aren't the shear stresses as in a diff or transfer case, but the goo is more liquid at forever-below-zero temps. It's sure stiff when it's cold out, but my swivels and CVs will last forever and there's no leakage. Can't beat it!

    About motor oil, I have the best luck with Castrol 10/30 in Fall, replacing a quart with Castrol Syntec 5/50w. This gives me the tenacity of a synthetic, and the low spread between lower and upper numbers means I'm lubing with oil, not with polymers.

    Once winter sets in hard I go to straight Syntec 5/50w and a BIG filter... like the WIX 51515 (replacement for the Fram PH8A long-body). I get lots of filtration surface area this way so I'm less likely to popoff the pressure release in the filter body on cold starts.
  • norbnnorbn Member Posts: 70
    Hey I'm seriously looking at getting a Disco II. I've been watching them since they came out but I think I can pull the trigger now. One reason is that LR is having a special lease on the Disco for $399/month. Anyone else use this lease to get a Disco? What are the negatives? I know it has a pretty steep upfront cost but at $399, LR must be subsidizing it.

    Another reason is that the SR model is perfect for me. I love having leatherette seats with the all black bumpers. The only option I'd like to get is rear a/c and maybe the sunroof. Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    norbn,

    Welcome to the Town Hall! I am sure members with experience will be more than happy answer your questions and we look forward to hearing from you.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I learned way back when from my Dad that as long as you stick with east coast oils you can't go wrong. Quaker State, Pennzoil, and Castrol. In the old days the East coast oils were petroleum based. The west coast oils were sulfur or paraffin based and caused deposits to form on the internals of the motor. These brands are Texaco, Shell and Vavoline. With the new formulations, synthetics and multi-weights every thing has changed. Changing your oil at 3000 mile intervals makes brand and filter questions a moot point. As long as the codes on top of the cans match the owners manual you're safe. Although reports state that the new synthetics give better mileage, but at 3000 miles I think they are a waste of money when Quaker State 5/30w is $0.69 a quart and Amsoil is $3.00-$4.00.
    Disclaimer: Lord Lucas, my truck is a piece of **&**&. Already I have had to wash it 4 times. If something doesn't fail or break soon I think I will scream. By the way, do you know the name of my service man? I don't think I remember where my dealer is located.
  • smokymansmokyman Member Posts: 12
    You nailed it. Hunting, irratic idle, etc...
    Is this the kind of thing I could do a quick fix by running some fuel line cleaner through? Leaving tommorrow on a road trip.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Unfortunately the Throttle Position Indicator is like a rheostat, I believe it's like a long coil that has a wiper that moves along it, returning varying resistance as it moves. The ECU uses that input to determine how hard you're squeezing your cat's tail. The TPI will develop "dead" spots in its movement and at those spots your ECU doesn't have one of its necessary inputs, so it doesn't know how to behave. The fix is to install a new TPI, sorry. There are a couple other things... your air mass flow sensor (pray that's not the problem!!) or the connections in your fuse block under the hood. That's where your BIG currents come in, and erratic connections there will make your other systems ill. This is the fuse block on the passenger side (NAS spec) midpoint on the engine... it's black, 10" by 6" or so. Pop off the cover, unplug the cables beneath, and one at a time remove/clean/replace each of the fusible links. I use a pencil eraser. Blow out the crud and reassamble.

    I hope that helps! Oops, one more thing... fuel sysem cleaner has never helped me a bit, or apparently harmed me either... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

    Regards, -Bob
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I have found that if you use a gas that is formulated with ethanol, ARCO and Shell, a fuel system cleaner is necessary every month or so. These fuels have a tendency to pickup moisture and cause the problems reported by Smoky. One good feature though, with the new cars is that they are using more and more stainless steel in the fuel lines etc. so corrosion, and injector fouling, has been reduced. A $0.99 can of cleaner, to remove this moisture, can't hurt. Better yet, stick with better fuels, such as Mobil or Standard.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    A friend of mine at work has decided to take the plunge and buy a DII. He has researched, poked, proded and kicked every SUV out there and Landrover comes out way ahead. His V-6, 16 mpg, Exploder, with a blown $1200.00 clutch will be replaced by a DII. He is so pumped at the prospect of a rig the will "crawl up the back of a Humvee." He has stayed away from Rover because of the infamous Lord Lucas, but since most of the Lord has been replaced with Bosch he is now going to get to drive a "REAL" 4X4.
    Lord Lucas motto: "Drive with confidence, but get home before dark."
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    2001 DII w/ACE. Still solid as a rock after 5K, except for the yellow ACE light periodically coming on and the tire pressure, all noted above. The only problem seems to be with the dealership. I scheduled a service visit for the ACE light and told them to change the oil as well(third change-one at 500 and another at 2K). The ACE problem was a leaky seal in the main pump. The oil change turned into a 7500 check-up at a cost of $100, compared to a $29 oil change, and they "repressurized" my tires to 28 front and 46 rear despite the fact they knew of the problems I had with those pressures and despite the fact the service manager recommends 35psi all around (which is where mine were set). To top it off, a lighter valuable to me, and not replaceable, was stolen from the slide out coin tray in the dash. The dealership response--can't prove who took the lighter; at 7500 we will just do an oil change (won't that put me 2500 miles AHEAD of future scheduled maintenance?--not really, not that critical they say); and so on. I thought Land Rover dealerships were supposed to be different? I would put this service facility right along side your ordinary chevy/ford dealership. And maybe that's the problem--FORD INFLUENCE. Anyway it looks like I will have to go back to my old maintenance strategy: Do the small stuff like oil changes yourself and when you have to take it in, strip all personal items and be specific about what they are to do. Anyone else having unusual service problems.
  • hockeydochockeydoc Member Posts: 2
    My brakes have also been "shaky"...VERY shaky sometimes when I run over rought road or terrain with pressure applied to the brake. More than that, though. The brakes fail and I get the vibration and god awful grinding noise from the font end. I have to jam down on the brake, activating the ABS (i guess) just to stop. I don't think the noise/vibration/failure is ABS, if we're talking about the same thing. I'm scheduled for service next week. BTW, that damn cup holder thing came apart, and it's just a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
    All in all, LUV my 01 DII.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Another idea came to mind re: the hunting and poor idle, and loss of cruise control at speed.

    A gent here a year or so back mentioned something about a road speed sensor (I think that's right) that fails and causes this. It's pretty cheap and easy to get at... on the trans or something.

    Sorry for no specifics, it's all I remember.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    My advise, stay out of ALL car dealerships for service. My experience on my 2000 Chevy was that it came out worst than it went in. They even dented the roof during my 6000 mile service and denied the whole thing. Unless somthing real major breaks or is out of wack I will do all the maintenance to this rig myself. This includes no brainer things like tire pressures that you mentioned. I can't speak for my dealership, since at 12K and counting, I haven't been back. At least Jiffylube will give you good service and won't charge you an extra $100 for a bogus checkup. Their checkups are included in the oil change. Good Luck. Hopefully you live in a large town where there is more than one dealership to choose from. In Sacramento they are finally giving our Caddillac/Landrover dealership some competition and opening a exclusive Landrover dealership in Granite Bay. Maybe this is the first signs of Ford breaking the Landrover/GM ties.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Land Rover has no GM ties. Rover group bought the right to the Buick V-8 engine currently used in the mid 60's.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    One question: In my travels throughout California it seems that Landrover is marketed alongside upper end GM products. This is true in Sacramento and when I last visited LA it seemed that they were also in GM dealerships. (ie. Cadillac again) Is this just a fluke or now that Ford owns Landrover are they going to be moved out into upper end Ford owned/franchised dealerships. Such as Jaguar, Volvo, Lincoln or Mercury?
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The shared dealers you saw are very early ones, going back to when we sold 3-5,000 vehicles per year, and sales couldn't support stand alone dealerships. Land Rover tried to tie in with upscale dealers and it seems Cadillac dealers wanted to purchase the franchises more than other high end dealers. Most of the dealers created in the last 3-4 years are stand alone centres. You will see Jaguar and Land Rover centres on the same site sharing service facilities, but with separate showrooms.
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    So after 3 days of searching for the yellow tranny dipstick on my DII I gave up! ;-)

    Well, it wasn't what I had expected. Turns out the fluid was coming from the radiator...dealer replaced it under warranty. Seems a little odd though, as the fluid certainly didn't appear to be originating from that far forward...Any chance they fouled up the diagnosis??

    In any event, out the door w/no $$$ changing hands. Better enjoy that while I can...Thanks for your help!
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I'm sure sorry about leading you on the wild goose chase! I wonder... in some trucks there are lines leading forward from the auto trans to the radiator for extra cooling... usually it's marketed as a "towing package". If you have these then it's a natural path for coolant to ooze back along as you drive the freeway.

    It's amazing where fluids go as you drive. My hoses from the power steering cannister get loose and I wind up with ATF on the side of my oil pan. Likewise, my rocker cover stock gaskets were (past tense) cork and developed a mild oooze. But it looked like my rear mail seal was bad, the way the leakage flowed back along the head then down the back of the block.

    I'm glad you got it fixed. The service people here are far more than excellent... I can give nothing but my highest regards to Rover Anchorage. Wallace, Kent and Lyle will treat you professionally, and do it RIGHT the first time.

    (And I just got my invitation to the annual Christmas party in the mail! Catered, drinks and presents for the kids!)
  • oceandwelleroceandweller Member Posts: 58
    Hope you're enjoying the off-roading weather! I'm still waiting...my baby is purrin'...lord lucas did not hear that! I'm still experience some vibration that feels like suspension issues, but other than that she is great! Fresh oil, new exhaust etc...take care and happy rovering! lk
  • lvstenislvstenis Member Posts: 7
    im just wondering if a dvd can be install in the discovery? if it is possible, any idea who can install it?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Vibrations? Are these Good Vibrations? Suspension related? Please describe... I have some experience with those and my '96 DI.

    What exhaust did you go with? I know some day Anuqa is going to need it too.

    Yep yep yep... it was 1.2 degrees this morning, clear and cold, PERFECT weather! Want to go do some winter camping? We're heading out next weekend.

    Take care, Happy Rovering!

    Lord Lucas Disclaimer: uhhhhhhhh, well... I had a stone caught in my tire tread once and it made a HORRIBLE ticking noise. Is that good enough?

    ;) -Bob
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