Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

1…6566687071…97

Comments

  • rowjimmyrowjimmy Member Posts: 5
    Okay so I have a 99 Disco II and I believe it has the SLS option. (it has the air springs on the back)

    I will be towing my boat with this car and I was very intrigued to know that I can actually lower the rear suspension on this car.

     My question is can that only be done with the remote or is there a way to do it similar to raising the back end with the switch on the dash ?

    thanks again....
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    On the DI there is a separate bulb for the fog lights. They only come on when you have your running lights on and hit the switch. On the DI they're behind a red lens and located just beneath the running/brake light pair.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The rear foglamps should light the red lamps in the bumper.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    You can lower the rear suspension only by using the Remote. The dash switch will only raise it or return it to the standard ride height. The SLS system will also not operate if any of the doors are open.
  • damann1damann1 Member Posts: 2
    Been looking for Disco's for a few months now. Being patient and taking my time, want a good one.
    I was wondering if Tincup or anyone could look into a vin number for me. It's a Canadian vehicle, not sure if that makes a difference?
    SALJY1244VA549326

    This is an SD model that actually has the jump seats in the back?? Cloth seats. Does anyone here have cloth seats? If so are they any good for wear and tear and mud and sand etc. The vehicle has 110,000kms ( 70,000 miles?). They are asking $15,900 canadian so about $2 American :-)
  • rowjimmyrowjimmy Member Posts: 5
    So Tincup,

    I guess mine are wired wrong since one of my turn signal lamps light up with the rear fog lights.

    question: do you think I could pull out the light assemblys in the bumper and see if there are some erroneous connections?

    I dont want to have the dealer fix this because it = $$$

    any thoughts???
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The problem could be as simple as the wrong wire is plugged into the wrong lamp socket. When you turn on the turn signal on that side of the vehicle, does the red light blink? The harnesses plug into the removable sockets that hold the bulbs. It could be someone just put the sockets or wires in the wrong sides of the lamp.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    This looks like a pretty good vehicle, no major issues fixed under warranty. The cloth on the Discoverys seems to wear pretty well, you can see how well by looking at the condition of the vehicle you are looking at. 70,000 kms and 6 years will take it's toll if the covers aren't up to wear and tear.
  • damann1damann1 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for checking it out for me. Can you happen to tell if it was serviced for all the oil changes and tune ups that Land Rover recommends? Once again thanks for checking it out.
  • tbbtbb Member Posts: 5
    I see that a couple of members of this forum have access to a vehicles history through the VIN. Is this info available online? Do you have to be a dealer to get this info? I'm asking because I'm researching 02 and 03 disco's, I think I've found one that I like, it only has a 1000 miles, and I want to make sure it hasn't had a rough childhood. If anyone has any info, the VIN is SALTW164X3A823280. TIA

    Trace
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    That vehicle does not show any service history, not surprising for a vehicle with only 1000 miles. Is this a purchase from a private party or a dealership?
  • tbbtbb Member Posts: 5
    It's a purchase form a private party. He says he lost his job and wants to sell it ASAP. The sticker shows 41,000 and change and he's asking 33,000. I would like to get it for 31,000.

    Thank you very much for your help.

    btw. the dealers in my area (Dallas) won't negotiate much, is this typical for LR dealers?

    Trace
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    It is not unusual for local Land Rover dealers to stay as close to MSRP as possible. They do not do the sales volume to allow large discounts.
  • ggillumggillum Member Posts: 9
    We're looking at an 02 SE but the truck doesn't have sunroofs and may not have a CD changer (they didn't know where it was if it had it; I noticed on the board that its located under the drivers seat). I thought SEs came standard with CD and sunroofs. Why wouldn't this one have sunroofs?
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The Discovery II has the CD changer under the passenger seat, the Discovery I has it under the driver's seat. What is the VIN of the vehicle you are looking at? SE's are supposed to have the sunroof as standard in 02.
  • brandmarbrandmar Member Posts: 37
    My DII is currently at the dealer having the rocker arms replaced. It has 52K. I bought the vehicle used with 48K. My vehicle was ticking loudly and at first the dealership said that the ticking was a "normal sound". I had another mechanic call up and have a talk with them about the ticking being a "normal sound". My question: Should I be overly concerned about the rocker arms having to be replace? To me it seems like this could be just the beginning. I'm worried about what's to come. For a certified vehicle, I've had it at the dealership quite a bit for various issues. Am I being overly dramatic? Thanks in advance for your comments.
  • blockislandguyblockislandguy Member Posts: 336
    Brandmar, I hope this is unnecessary, but ensure the dealership dissassembles, cleans, and replaces as necessary all the components in the rocker arm shaft assembly. Then use Mobil 1, changed regularly, hereafter.
  • shaunmannshaunmann Member Posts: 1
    I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on a used 2003 or (gulp) and new 2004 SE7.
    I've been driving a 95 Suburban for 8 years, so the gas thing, per se, doesn't scare too much.
    What about the Premium Fuel issue on the Disco? I've read here that it is required for 'hard pulling'...does that mean that you can run premium only when contidions warrant? Also, is it generally true that quality/reliability has improved each year since about 2000 +/-? THANKS!!
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I've found that running even mid-grade fuel gets my engine pinging sometimes. Especially when I'm doing a long climb. The ECU detects this and retards the timing for self-preservation, and then it won't readvance the timing on its own. This gives a noticeable loss of power... slight but noticeable. In my opinion it's worth the extra few bucks/tank to have power. Plus there's a little more bang per drop so I bet the overall higher expense about evens out with the lower fuel consumption.

    As for reliability and quality, Land-Rover and most other British vehicles had an earned reputation. But starting in the late 90s they really started getting their act together. I drive a '96 and at 84k miles and regular maintenance it drives and "feels" like a new truck. There's an old saying "once it's fixed it STAYS fixed" and that's true of my "vintage" Rover. The newer ones just don't seem to have anything wrong with them, so there's nothing to fix! Other than possibly a few minor problems, you'll likely have a vehicle as reliable and durable as the best SUVs out there. Including TLCs, Gelaendewagens, you name it. Yes that's pretty rare atmosphere but these are truly fine trucks. Anything you find with a reasonably good maintenance history should last as long as you want to keep it.

    Happy Thanksgiving all!
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    I agree with Nanuq on this. Also keep in mind that you are going to get a little bit better fuel economy with premium fuel because you are going to burn it more completely, and create fewer deposits in your engine. I also agree on the reliability issue. I have a 96 like Bob, and even though I don't get to play as much in the snow, I have found it to be pretty darned reliable. My only problem is the wife. She says my Disco is the "other woman" in my life and gets jealous of my attentions. I remember reading here (I think it was Nanuq) that most people end up naming their Rovers. My wife just calls mine "The B*TCH" :-)

    By the way Bob I finally get to go up to the mountains and play. WE are going up to Leavenworth WA for the holidays, Yay. I have a question for you. I picked up a set of chains the other day "Just in case" I used chains before on my 2WD Explorer so obviously they went on the rear. When, and if, I need to use them with my Disco, should I put them on the front? Or do I need to get another set and have them on all four?

    Charlie
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Charlie, I understand your wife's concerns about your truck. *grin* I wound up naming mine Anuqa, for "wind" in the Yupiq eskimo language... she's silver.

    If you're in a situation where you need chains (and it will be horrendously ugly out for you to have to chain up, I can't state that strongly enough) you'll want them on the front. It cuts a path thru crud better, gives you steering, and better braking. MAKE SURE they're tight so they can't get into your steering or brake components! A word of warning, you may experience DRAMATIC oversteer with chains on the front only, if you have to brake and turn hard. I mean it will snap around so fast you won't see it coming. If you put them on the rear instead that minimizes the tendency but reduces their effectiveness somewhat. The best solution is to chain all 4 wheels and you'll be unstoppable!

    Last weekend I was out camping with my scout troop and of the 4WDs there, nobody wanted to drive down into the campsite. We had a lot of heavy stuff to move so I made trips with Anuqa, just blasted down over the roadside down a long slope into a clearing. I climbed back up and repeated this 3 or 4 times, no worries at all. I even left her down in the clearing by the tents (I had all my emergency gear in back) and we got almost a foot of new snow overnight, at about zero degrees. The next morning she was stiff so I let her warm awhile and then we loaded up and I drove right out. No chains, no worries.

    HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL!
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Thanks Bob I might just pick up another set in case I decide to be unstoppable. By the way, the wife says the name is short for "Cast Iron B*TCH" SO I explained that it was mostly aluminumn. Mostly I get stuff like "So what did you buy the B*tch today." *grin* As I get stuff to customize. I just installed running boards yesterday. Took my 11 year old son and I about 2 1/2 hours. At first she was ok about it, then as the time went by she was fuming. We had Thanksgiving yesterday because I have duty today and am stuck on the ship. I can't wait to get my a-bar (on order) and fog lights. I would actually use them since we do have a lot of that in Seattle. But can't wait to try her out in the snow. The last AWD I had was a VW Quantum 'Syncro' and IT was unstoppable. Surprised a lot of people when I could get to the ski slopes their 2WD Blazers and Cherokees couldn't go.

    Mine's alpine white. If you are ever in Seattle let me know and we can go play in the mountains.
  • kkonekkone Member Posts: 61
    Does anyone know what the power distribution is between the front and rear axles on a Discovery? I notice that my front tires are wearing faster than the rears. Is that just because of normal wear and tear or because the front tire get most of the power under street driving?
  • ahpilotahpilot Member Posts: 1
    Proud owner of a 97 SE7. low miles also. Just wanted to say hello and love this forum. By the way Tincup can you check this VIN#: SALJY1248VA543447. Thanks again...
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Just a word of warning, Land Rover only recommends chains for the rear wheels of the vehicle, especially on a Discovery II. At full lock the front tires are very close to the frame, not enough clearance for tire chains. Any damage done would not be covered under warranty.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Looks pretty good to me, just the normal leak and squeak repairs.
  • mnrovermnrover Member Posts: 52
    Anyone have issues with wind and cold air coming through the door and window seals on the drivers side? I find myself wedging a glove or a hat in that little space in the corner of the window between the dash and the window. Being in MN the cool breeze blowing on you can be quite annoying. Any quick DIY fixes? Thanks
  • mnrovermnrover Member Posts: 52
    New to the list - My apologies if this is duplicated. How well are synthetic fluids handled with the Disco II's? I am currently using Amsoil 5w/20 in the motor. Any suggestions for the tranny and difs?
  • lschwartz2000lschwartz2000 Member Posts: 2
    Hi there, picked up a '03 Discovery recently and was wondering if you could work your VIN-magic on it?

    VIN is SALTY16403A782586.

    Thanks, as always!

    David.
  • mnrovermnrover Member Posts: 52
    SALTY1243XA200556 - This should be interesting

    Thank you so much. I appreciate it.

    Megan
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The only warranty repair on that vehicle was for the headliner.
  • kkonekkone Member Posts: 61
    Tincup:
    I am going to buy some chains for my '03 Disco. Can you tell me if standard 4.5MM chains work fine on the rears or do I need to use special SAE Class "S" for restriced clearance requirements? http://www.tirechain.com/sae.htm.
    Thanks.
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Tincup. Thanks for the advice. I only plan on using chains if I need them to get out of a situation. According to Nanuq, I probably won't even need them. Most of my driving will be on mountain passes and stuff like that. I'm not going to brave the Alaskan wilds just yet:-). I think I will put them on in the garage and check the clearances though. I don't worry about the warranty since mine is a '96. I do use the low profile diamondbacks though. I will check it out anyway. I am more worried about getting out of a ditch or something if I should find myself there.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Discoman, you can look at adjusting the bump stops on your front end to limit the travel in the steering. That should prevent you getting the chains into your chassis as you work your way out of a ditch.

    Also consider putting one of those small square nose coal shovels in back... and some carpet strips. They're life savers!
  • phill27phill27 Member Posts: 31
    Thanks for the great advice. I think this is the best board out there!
    There are a few posts discussing the consequences of running non-premium gas. How do you reset the ECU once it has adjusted to lower grade fuel? My Disco II was picked up this summer with 32000 miles. I am getting 15mpg on the highway! I refuse to talk about around town mpg. I have changed the air filter and oil change with no improvement. I thought about a complete change of fluids , but it being so new, I checked with the dealer and it was all changed at 30,000miles.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    In the Series I Disco the only way to reset the ignition timing is with the Testbook at the shop. Those rascals can charge an hour labor to do it, so it pays to run good gas and keep your engine perking. These are "learning" vehicles and they'll learn your driving habits and speeds and throttle settings... so unfortunately it's not a simple thing to reset the timing. The ECU will put it all back to defaults and then it starts learning again.

    As for gas mileage... that's about how I do too. Check your tire pressures and alignment, that will have a significant impact on mileage.
  • discomandiscoman Member Posts: 110
    Does anyone out here know if there is any way I can get a hold of "Testbook" software that will run on a PC and a cable with the ODBII connector? I know there are testers out there, but not if they will do me any good.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think the dealers tend to hold the software pretty close to the vest and share with no one. There are alternatives however.

    tidester, host
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    ....all we have to do is pool our resources and buy one. Then we'll arrange online chats where we plug our Rovers in to the Web via that funky serial port (and a LONG cable) then whomever is storing the Testbook Wannabe can reset us all from a distance!

    (idea: patent pending)
  • masshysteriamasshysteria Member Posts: 1
    Well, I'm seriously considering joining the ranks of DiscoII owners. After seeing all the VIN posts, I was hoping tincup could run this one for me and provide any feedback:

    SALTL1548YA281369

    Thank you!
  • brucewheelsbrucewheels Member Posts: 6
    Hey all,

    Very much enjoyed lurking on this board, but now I have a question of my very own. I have a 2000 Disco II bought used last year. It's been almost trouble free for me, but it's about to go in for its final service while under warranty. I have to decide whether this is going to be a long term vehicle, and whether to buy the extended warranty or not. Two things: Is there anything I should pay special attention to at this service (48,000km) that might give me grief later? And... I must say tincup's ability to look up vehicle histories is irresistible... any dark secrets in its past?

    SALTY1248YA257207

    You guys are great. Looking forward to being a more active participant here!

    Bruce.
  • 98discotex98discotex Member Posts: 8
    Have put 1,000 miles on the used 98 Disco I bought a month ago... Since the rear door has jammed, the mileage going past 60 K has triggered the check engine light and leaks tranny fluid. May consider a tune-up as well. Love the ride, the mileage isn't too awful bad, but wondering if there is any information on what to expect such to cost if taken to a dealer? Thanks ya'll...
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Vehicle has had no major problems, worst item was a replacement window motor.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Very clean history, mostly bulbs replaced. Radiator was also replaced.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    It seems like I read once that you can get that rear hatch open. Look at the little green Land-Rover logo on the black handle/cover on the hatch above the license plate. I believe the logo/cover can be popped out, revealing a way to get in there and flip the mechanism or something. Take it easy, if it doesn't come easy then it's probably not meant to pop out.

    It's easy to adjust the rear strike so it contacts the mechanism right, and will not jam. There is also a retrofit plastic block specified on the TSB list to make the door guide into place better as it closes.

    Good luck!
  • mnrovermnrover Member Posts: 52
    New to the list and I too am wondering about my vehicles history. Can you help me out? Thanks

    SALTY1243XA200556
  • phill27phill27 Member Posts: 31
    Thanks for the advice.
    If they are truly "learning" our driving habits and adjusting accordingly, shouldn't the ecu EVENTUALLY adjust to the the new drivers habits? Also, does clearing the codes reset the ECU?
    If not, It looks like I'm heading to the dealer on this one.
  • brucewheelsbrucewheels Member Posts: 6
    Much appreciated. More Land Rover karma in the bank for you!

    Bruce.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Yes they'll learn the new driver's habits. For example someone told me long ago that driving around town in '3' instead of 'D' gives much better response and the truck will soon learn you like doing this, and compensate so your mileage will not be affected much. Guess what, it works!

    Resetting the codes is a different function than resetting the ECU. The Rover will store codes as it operates and finds anything amiss; you can reset/zero those after reading them to see how she's been behaving under the hood. To reset the engine management ECU means to put it back to default settings for timing and advance rates and idle speed and etc. There are bazillions of parameters to be set. When I had mine in the shop after I bought it I asked Kent to set my idle speed a little higher to maintain charge better on the battery (dark winters and heaters and such) and it was click-click-click done.

    Good luck with the shop... what was it you're going in for?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I looked at my rear catch/handle and sure enough there's a little square opening at the base of the oval Land-Rover logo. The logo's sitting just a bit loose in the opening and I bet a screwdriver in the opening would pop it right out. Then it's a matter of messing around to get it freed up and open.

    While you're in there give it a good shot of lube and then adjust the strike on the frame so it won't jam in the future.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles