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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

19394969899160

Comments

  • denver8denver8 Posts: 42
    I had the water pump changed on my 95 Defender (with 3.9 liter motor)last year at my local independant repair shop. I think it cost around +/-$350??
  • charlie2k2charlie2k2 Posts: 15
    I've owned a 2003 SE since last July. If you decide to purchase, the price already includes scheduled maintenance for the warranty period (4 years/50K) which will include the oil change. These complimentary maintenances occur every 7,500 miles. If you only drive that amount per year, then you could get away with doing one oil change per year. If you drive more than that amount per year, the oil (synthetic, by the way) will be changed automatically during the scheduled maintenance service. Perhaps the Sales Guide was a bit excited that day! :-)

    If you buy this beautiful machine, keep up with the scheduled maintenances. There is no more charge and if the retailer is like the one in my area, if you need a loner car, that's free to you also.
  • Is the dealer required to use synthetic oil? This would be good info if you didn't see a couple of hundred cases of Mobil 1 in the parts department.
  • silentzsilentz Posts: 5
    Well guys...I have been lurking here for about 4 months now and I finally made my Disco purchase. I took delivery of my 2000 LR Disco this past Saturday and I couldn't be happier!

    I only hit a few snags which were to be expected with a used car, even though it was in great condition. One issue was with the sliding cup holder that was broken and after the dealer agreed to purchase the part directly from LR I replaced it myself. Another thing I noticed wrong with my Disco was the tail lights weren't working. After checking the brake light switch I noticed that it was lose and once I secured it all was thought to be well. I only then realized that all the bulbs had burned out in my brake lights...bizzare. I replaced them and have had no other problems with that.

    Check out the pics at (http://www.ebizautos.com/shared/viewer.cfm?iid=42990&aid=876- &pid=1&wid=800)
  • silentzsilentz Posts: 5
    A bit of advice I would like to pass along as a rookie was about the key/remotes. In anticipation of buying my Disco I got on eBay and bought a key/remote that was used and had a cut blade thinking that it would be cheap (or I could send my girlfriend into the Land Rover Centre batting her eyes at the service guys) to have them rekey and program it for me. So I call Land Rover of Frisco(www.landroverfrisco.com) and ask them how much they would charge me to rekey and reprogram the remote I have. The service guy tells me right off the bat it will be $45 dollars labor and transfers me to parts. The parts guy tells me that you can't just buy the blades you have to buy the whole remote/blade set which will be $110(roverconnection has it for $90 btw) and then you have to pay the service guys $40 bones to program and cut it for you. So forget about cheating the system and getting a cheap extra key on eBay. Has anyone else had this problem?

    I am also on the hunt for a '00 Disco Owner's Manual since mine didn't come with one. If anyone has one that they are willing to give up lemme know.
  • modendahlmodendahl Posts: 22
    I just moved to Charlotte (actually Cornelius), NC as my warranty on my 2000 Disco II ran out. The "Service Engine Light" just went on and the local dealer wants what I feel is a ridiculous rate to hook it up just to figure it out.

    Does anybody have any good, reputable shops specializing in Rovers that they can suggest?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,803
    Often these days you can get an auto parts store to pull the codes (AutoZone around here does it for free).

    Interpreting the codes is another story, but it's a start.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    A Check Engine Light is something for a mechanic to deal with (and there are lists of what the numeric OBDII codes mean on the internet).

    If it's just a Service Engine Light then it may be time for one of the scheduled service intervals. You can do it all yourself fairly easily, but to maintain your warranty coverage you likely need to have it done at the shop. Then to turn off the SEL, go look at www.discoweb.org and it shows you how... even on a DiscoII.

    Regards, -Bob
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,803
    A whole 'nother set of lights to keep track of?

    Thanks Bob!

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • The 95 dico I just bought has the ABS and SEL lights on and the garage checked the brakes for the safety but didn't know how to reset the lights. They are not LDR experts by any stretch.

    Can the ABS light be reset too?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    That usually means you have a sensor problem, and as far as I know the only way to reset it is with the Testbook at the dealership. Beneath your passenger seat there's a small tan module with an oval Land Rover sticker on it... push a straightened paper clip thru the center of the sticker, into the (covered) hole and that shorts some contacts and resets the SEL. You can read about it on www.discoweb.org.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I don't know about the remotes for the LRs, but I had a similar problem with my MDX. The service guy wanted $100 for the fob and $100 to program it. I purchased the fob...but refused to pay for the programming. I ended up finding instructions for a 98 or 99 Acura integra on google/groups which was a 15 step series of turning the key on and off with the door open. Once activated you could program almost any FM remote fob to work with the system. So I learned during the process that I could have just gotten a cheap fob and then programmed it myself. At least I saved on half of it. I would check some user groups on the web before you give up on programming your own fobs.

    For my lost key I had to use a $45 Acura key because it has a special computer chip in it.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    You can buy the separate fobs on Ebay for $40 or so, then there's a multi-step process to program it for your truck. As for the key with built-in fob... sorry! I've got no advice.
  • brandmarbrandmar Posts: 37
    Tincup, I'd appreciate any information you could provide on a 1999 Discovery, VIN # SALTY1241XA903637. I'm trying to decide whether to go ahead and take the plunge with a 2003 Discovery, or look for something older. This is at a local dealer. The price seems good. Thanks.
  • yourrn7yourrn7 Posts: 1
    Dear Tincup and/or Nanuq,
    I have written to you because my wife Kim has spoke with you about several issues with our '97 Disco and that advice has been invaluable. The problem now is that the truck is now wandering at highway speeds. Nothing major, but noticeable. The steering box has been replaced and the suspension system is fine, we have even replaced the steering stablaizer. I first noticed it after letting off the gas, but it happens all the time. Our dealer (LR Farmington Hills, MI) is trying to convince us to buy a '03 Disco as we are experiencing escalating maintenance costs lately but this is our first Rover and we don't really want to lose her(her name is Lizzie!). We do tow our 5000 lb trailer with it but are also inerested in the bigger engine(a Rover not BMW). In summary, what do you think about the wandering and what do you think about keeping the '97 vs a new '03(with extended warranty)?

    Any suggestion would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I'd check the steering stabilizer again, some dampers have a bit of "dead space" where they don't do any damping at all before they "take hold". Others have been reported to have a sort of "spring effect" where they seem to push the steering one direction all the time after installation.

    Another thing to check is the swivel pins. These are at the top and bottom of the ball shaped housings on your front axle inside which the CV joints live in their lube bath. The pins are the pivots upon which the front wheel hubs turn as you turn the steering wheel. As they wear they develop looseness where the trunion pin fits down into the swivel housing bearing, and then the truck can wander without the steering damper even moving!

    The swivel pins are adjusted by removal and installation of shims. The fewer shims, the further the pin fits down into its bearing in the swivel ball, and the tighter everything gets. Be careful of the ABS sensor as you do this, it fits down into the swivel pin and the shim stack. I'd start by removing one very thin shim (there are likely several stacked there) and then on the jack stands, see how much tighter the turning of the hub has got. Technically, you're supposed to unhook all the steering gear, and then a wrench at the top of the hub will take something like 4-6 NM of torque to turn (rotate) a properly adjusted hub.

    Good luck!
  • smarticussmarticus Posts: 37
    A couple of other obvious things to check are 1.) the wheels/tyres - check pressure, balance, tyre condition, swap front to back etc. 2.) steering column (there are a couple of bushes in the steering column (the piece from the bottom of steering wheel through to steering rack). If these have any play in them it can cause a number of steering anomalies. Not an expensive part and easy (if a bit fiddly to fix - or at least it is on a Defender and the Disco looks similar).
  • brimcrowbrimcrow Posts: 4
    Just how important is ACE if you a not going primarily off road? Is the better with ACE on the street? How does the new 2003 drive?

    Thanks

    brimcrow
  • obafunqueobafunque Posts: 9
    Nanuq and others Disco experts: My '94 Disco won't start after battery replaced, and thermostat changed. It has 94K miles and recently purchased from a lady that lived in San Antonio Texas. I checked pulse in the injectors and is OK, spark plugs make a big spark, gas is reaching the injectors ( plenty )..........why is not firing up? I never seen a car with gas, sparking and evrything related not firing up.....is some sensor, relays or something in the Land Rover that I am missing? Please, advise. I do not have any owner manual of this type of car and found that Haynes do not make it either. If any of you owners has one that I can buy from you? Please, I need help. I am new in the world of Land Rover and like nanuq said " I would like to love them and not hate them" Please, reply.
  • Thanks for the advice Charlie. I expected as much. Now I have a question about "Break-In Periods", what exactly does that entail. We'd like to keep our 2k3 Disco for some time and I'd like to start it off on the right foot. We are planning on driving from NYC to DC this weekend and just wanted some advice before taking our little road trip. Thanks again.

    - Maurice
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Check the timing between crank/cam. Make sure the chain hasn't slipped a tooth... that will mess up the works. With a bunch of miles under its belt, who knows? Even with adequate fuel/compression/spark it still may not run at all.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    The key is LOTS of oil and filter changes, and do not maintain the same RPM setting for extended periods. I like to accelerate and then lift completely off the gas... let the engine compression slow you down. Doing so will let oil run up around the piston skirts and flush any metallic bits out of there. It also wears the fronts AND backs of the gear teeth in the diffs and transfer box.

    I would change the oil before the trip, then after the trip. Do your first oil change at 500 mi. then again at 1500 mi. Then another change at 2500 mi. Then get into a cycle of oil/filter changes every 2500/3000 miles. It's not necessary to use synthetic lubes... I do so when it's really cold in winter, then using Castrol Syntec 5/50. I use Castrol GTX 10-30w and Purolator Premium or Napa Gold or WIX filters.

    Change lubes in your transmission, transfer box and both diffs at 5,000 miles, then get into the cycle of changing all these lubes every year.

    Wait until 6 months to change the power steering lube.

    Do the brake fluid every year.

    If you regularly give her lots of fresh lube and keep the fasteners tight, she'll run as long as you care to drive her. I'm at 83k miles and my Disco runs and drives like a spanking new truck.

    Enjoy!
  • lyrickylalyrickyla Posts: 7
    Hello,

    Does anyone know of a good mechanic for a 2000 Disco Series II in Atlanta?
  • charlie2k2charlie2k2 Posts: 15
    Your very welcome. No problem letting you know my experience with my rig. It appears you have already bought? Definitely follow through with the complimentary services. There is a fellow Land Rover owner (Nanuq) posting here who has recommended a bit more by way of oil changes. If your head started swooning when reading about keeping up with all those extra changes like mine did, DON'T FREAK OUT! ;-) Nanuq has always leaned strong on the upkeep of his rig for good reason (he lives where is gets very cold) and has given excellent information to this board. If you can keep up with his routine or one similar to it, by all means. After all, continuously fresh fluids in an automobile can do nothing but good for it. However, if you're like me and don't have time for that much extra maintenance, just stick with the factory recommendations. I am certainly not a Land Rover mechanic, but I do know synthetics are excellent at preventing almost any engine wear. The components of a synthetic are small enough to penetrate into the contacting metal surfaces, which is how they reduce engine friction. Perhaps that is one reason Land Rover has decided to use them in our models (you did get the 2003, right?). You'll be safe within reason to let the Land Rover Center put in the recommended oil at the recommended intervals (you've already paid for them!). Even so, if you want to do more as Nanuq mentions, it probably won't hurt.

    There is another individual who posts here handled as 'Tincup'. I believe he works for LRNA and has, along with Nanuq, given excellent insights for these vehicles. Perhaps he might shed even more light on the subject of a "break-in" period and it's import for the 2003 model.

    In the meantime, I'll let you know if mine explodes from utilizing the complimentary services. =)
  • I'm actually picking it up today. 2003 SE7 Silver/Black. We're pretty excited. I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep up with Nanuq's suggestions but I will try. I will definitely take advantage of the LR Center Maintenance they seem like pretty good guys. I'd recommend Prestige Land Rover in Paramus NJ to anyone. I live in NYC, we visited the dealership here and sort of got the run around then we went to Prestige and had the easiest time with them. They gave me top dollar on my trade, 2k VW Jetta VR-6, and gave me the price I wanted on the Disco all in all the best buying experience ever.

    Thanks again for all the good advice. I'll keep you guys posted.

    - Maurice
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Yeah, the mechanic here told me once "Oil is cheaper than metal" and when that thought sunk in I realized he's right! It is a lot to do, and you wind up with GALLONS of lube to recycle... but they sure love the treatment. Plus as you're down there turning bolts you can keep an eye on other stuff, and you get familiar with your truck.

    I believe the word is that the new trucks don't require a break-in period... new machining processes supposedly let you get in and just drive it. But I have to wonder if that's a "warm and fuzzy" ploy to make new buyers less afraid of the truck? All the fresh pieces have to get acquainted with each other, and lube is what makes them happy as the flecks wear away.

    Another thing, Rovers are sensitive to poor maintenance habits by getting "tappety" lifters. If you're shopping used and the truck ticks a lot, it has suffered thru long oil change intervals. At 83k miles my engine sounds and runs like new.

    Synthetics really are the best lube for your truck, I'm glad to hear Rover is spec'ing them for the DIIs. Some people have commented that synthetics tend to weep from old seals and there may be some truth to that. But I haven't found that to be a problem.

    Synthetic swivel ball lubes are nice in really cold weather, as well as in the transfer box and diffs. They flow much better when it's way below zero. Sometimes Anuqa feels like she's 110 years old the way she creeps around in the cold. But after a few miles she gets things stirred up again and she works fine. But even on campouts at -40F I've never had her not start the next morning.

    I guess my recommendations about service intervals are extreme, but some of it is so easy to do!

    Example, I have to replace my brake pads about every 17k miles. When I'm bleeding them after the change, I am EXTREMELY sloppy and generous with the bleed process, and wind up sending pints and pints of fluid down the lines.

    Another example: it's super easy to change your power steering ATF... just use a turkey baster and suck it out with the engine running and your boy cranking the wheel side to side. Replenish as the level gets low, do it 3 or 4 times and you've got most of it.

    Trick: the drain plugs for the diffs are the same size as your 1/2" socket wrench... plug in and loosen them! Another trick, your oil drain plug is the same size as your wheel lug nuts.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Posts: 1,087
    you get your disco yet?
  • Come Thanksgiving Nanuq's turkey must taste like some aged ATF.

    Seriously, Nanug, is power steering fluid just ATF? Not the stuff they sell as "PS Fluid"? If it is just ATF, what about using some Red Line synthetic ATF? In any case, whats the big deal about changing it regularly? I can't think of any other vehicle except BMW where this is ever done in practice (just imaging pulling into a big city, high volume Chevrolet store and telling the service writer that you wanted to change the power steering fluid in your company pickup truck!).

    Incidentally, some of the off road magazines have the occastional ad for a ps fluid cooler kit. I know that NASCAR types have ps coolers.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Discovery I, Defender, Range Rover 4.0-4.6, Range Rover classic, and Freelander use Dexron III spec ATF as power steering fluid. Discovery II and the 2003 Range Rover are spec'd to use Texaco Cold Climate PAS Fluid. This is available at your Land Rover dealership as P/N LRN2261. ATF is not recommended for those vehicles.
  • mbperkmbperk Posts: 9
    Chris,
    I have had for what seems like a while now. You can view the pictures here...
    http://homepage.mac.com/bperkins/PhotoAlbum29.html
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