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Lincoln Town Car Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 159
    The starter change-out is not tricky. However, this starter usually makes some unusual noises and does not turn the engine over quickly before it quits. It gives some indication that it is going-out. When you were checking the battery, did you do anything like turn the headlights on and try to operate the power windows, blow the horn, or operate the trunk release? If for some reason the starter motor resistance is high, it takes more battery power to turn it over.
  • was wondering if you ever resolved your problem
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Just thought I'd post a followup....My problem turned out to be a bad + battery cable. Sometimes the simple and most obvious is overlooked.

    Ed
  • Thanks for the concern....I went on forever, eventually I went to the dealer and paid over $400 to check the system. It was the digital clock that caused this Gremlin, that hasn't worked in the past three years!!....Hopefully this info will benefit another proud Lincoln owner!....Feel free to send me royalties to help soften the blow...
  • chevy88chevy88 Posts: 10
    thanks for mentioning the clock i unplugged the clock which it hadn't worked for a long time my alarm now works and the door is not dinging when there is no key in it
    and my baterry is not dying :)
  • jshaw3jshaw3 Posts: 1
    After locking my 2004 tc,the alarm will go off(sometimes it may be delayed 3-5 min.
    I tried manual locking also ,but it still alarms.Any suggestions?
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Sounds like a short in the door lighting circuit. The passive alarm works if you lock the doors with the ignition off, using the remote or the keypad, and sometimes if you lock the door before closing it. Any of these acts will set the passive alarm. If you are sitting in the car and use the remote to lock the doors, and then open the door without first unlocking it with the remote, you will trigger the alarm. I am guessing that one of the doors has a faulty door open switch, they may be combo switches, one for the light, the other for door ajar, and a short in one of these could be triggering the alarm. I had a problem on a 2000 Grand Marquis where the interior lights would come on all by themselves, turned out to be the keypad, it had a small hole in it, and when it got wet, would short out and turn the lights on. It never triggered the alarm though, so I dont think that is the case on yours.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    I recently had a vibration/rumble in my 99 towncar at about 115k miles. It would come and go and was something like you were running over the rumble strips on the side of the road. I've had an older ford ('57 Retractable) that had a bad joint on the driveshalf that acted similar. i had it checked at a local transmission repair shop (that I trust). I figured that the I had a sticky valve in the transmission or that the torque converter was going bad. What I found out was that an $8 bottle of Instant Shudder Fixs put into either the transmission or the torque converter did the trick. The transmission had never been serviced (according to the guy who checked it) so I had the fluids changed and this bottle of stuff added. It's smooth as silk again.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,321
    The Owners Manual tells how you can substitute another door pad combination so as to not have to rely on the factory setting. Follow the directions and see if the new combination fixes the problem. ;)
  • i have inoperable taillights, all other lights work properly, i have checked the bulbs and fuses. any suggestions on what to check next?
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    Do your turn signals light up when energizes? If they do then the problem could lie in the stop light switch.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    You didnt specify the year and model of your car. If it is a recent(last 10 years or so) then the lights are energized via the GEM module under the dash. When you say tail lights, I assume you refer to the running lights when you turn your parking lights on. You can have good power through the fuse, but if the GEM is having problems, then the lights aren't getting juice. You can do a google search for your car to see if there is a wiring diagram online to see where the lights run through.
  • Did anyone ever figure this out?

    I have the same problem in my 1995 Lincoln Town Car. Battery is completely drained after three days of not being started.

    After the battery is disconnected, then reconnected through an ammeter, there is an initial draw of about .78 milliamps that goes down to .32 milliamps after about 10 seconds. There is some variation in this .32 milliamp current -- say +/- 5 milliamps -- over time even with nothing apparently changing in the vehicle.

    It is NOT:
    Rear courtesy lamps activated by armrest switches.
    Sun visor vanity lamps.
    Glove box light.
    Current drain through alternator. (when disconnected, it caused no change in the current draw)
    Trunk lamp.
    Engine compartment lamp.

    The greatest current draw is for engine compartment fuse #5 (ignition switch) and #10 (air bag)
    Also, instrument panel fuse #15 (various interior) causes the horn to chirp when removed and when replaced.

    Help!
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    Bucky:

    I can only think that the best way to find out what is draining your battery down is to put a meter on your battery and if its showng a draw- Start pulling fuses until the draw goes away and that system should be your problem. Its worked for me.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Do you have air ride? Assuming that you do, make sure your air bags are not leaking. If they are leaking the compressor will kick in too often and can kill the battery. There is a switch in the trunk in my '99 towncar. You should be able to hear the compressor running. Make sure your battery cables are good. I had battery problems recently and that's what my problem was. I've also had the leaky bags issue.

    Ed
  • chevy88chevy88 Posts: 10
    i had the same problem with my 95 t/c unplugged the non-working clock my alarm works now and my key chime works correctly and my battery hasnt died in a week

    tim
  • The current flow is 780 milliamps dropping down to 320 milliamps.

    The car no longer had air suspension, the trunk switch for it is turned off, and the engine compartment fuse has been removed.

    The instrument panel is electronic, including the clock. All instrument panel functions are normal.

    There is nothing plugged into the cigar lighter.

    I checked the alternator output current. It is correct.

    I put in another battery last evening. I will see if the symptom persists over a three day period of non-use.
  • The definition of battery reserve capacity is: The number of minutes at which the battery can be discharged at 25 Amps and maintain a terminal voltage higher than 1.75 volts per cell, on a new, fully charged battery at 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27C). It defines a battery's ability to power a vehicle with an inoperative alternator or fan belt. www.mpoweruk.com/glossary.htm

    The reserve capacity of a Lincoln Town Car battery is about 145 minutes.

    Some calculations:
    Power that the reserve capacity can provide = 145 minutes x 25 amps x hour/60 minutes = 60 amp-hours
    Power the actual current draw requires = 3-1/2 days x 24 hours/day x 0.320 amp = 27 amp-hours

    I think that means the battery should not be drawn down deeply enough to prevent starting the engine.

    Therefore, the battery may be at fault. It may not have sufficient reserve capacity.

    -------------------------------------------

    Any others who have measured the actual current draw on this vehicle?
  • rcw1rcw1 Posts: 1
    my 99 TC has no power on take off. It has new plugs, new catalyze converter, new O2 sensors. Still it starts, runs fine in park, but when it takes off the engine shakes and has no power. If you are in an up hill spot, it will shut off before it tries to take off. If I am lucky it will take off,
    It does not have the 4pack coil system. It has an electrical system where a coil wire comes out from a wire hardness to each plug. If the car is down hill or on a flat area the car will take off and run but it will shake bad. When and if it can take off it runs fine on the high-way.
  • Here are the differences in current draw when I remove various fuses. These are the only ones that significantly affect the current.

    Engine compartment
    # 5-----Ignition Switch------10 mA difference
    #10----Air Bags-------------100 mA difference

    Instrument panel
    #15-----Warning chime, Headlamp switch, License Lamps, Park Lamps, Ashtray Lamps, I/P Lighter Lamp, Interior Display and Switch, Illumination------------15 mA difference
    The horn chirps very briefly when this fuse is removed or installed
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    What is your current draw on yuor battery with nothing disconnected?
  • you might want to check the charging system fuse. it should be #13 inthe fuse block undr the hood
    :shades:
  • what is the door module, and where is it located
    :shades:
  • the door module is in the bottom of the drivers door it controls door locks and some security.
  • in my 99ltc the # 30 and 31 (7.5 on both) fuses keep blowing and i have no power to the windows, door locks, power seats, merriors, and interior lights. could this be a short in the door module? :shades:
  • very well could be a short to power remove door panel and check for pinched or raw wires
  • could it be connected in some way to the air bags, or could it possibly be something else? :shades:
  • i found the door module an it smells like burnt wires but no physical signs of damage n the module except for a dark spot on the cr-kt board an no burnt wires :shades:
  • hi everyone, well the bane of my existence right now is my beautifully annoying lincoln. its a 1995 town car signature, cream puff, i mean i get a bunch of compliments, breezes right through emissions tests the whole 9 yards, i love my car, if i park her for too long? dead battery. when i exit the vehicle? chime stays on. as if the ignition switch isnt disengaging? make any sense? im completely useless when it comes to home auto repairs and i just wanted to know if anyone had experienced this problem, knew what it was so when i go to the mechanic he doesnt take me for a 3 hour tour, know what i mean! thanks in advance to anyone that can be of assistance.
  • gordieazgordieaz Posts: 1
    120K miles & still like new, EXCEPT, The doors have quit locking when the car is moving like they used to, the interior lights stay on much longer after a door has been open (but they do eventually go off), and the radio goes off when the ignition is turned off - it used to stay on until a door was opened or it timed out.

    I'm going to take it to a dealer, but would sure appreciate thoughts from anybody with a similar experience - electronics problems are scary.
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