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Lincoln Town Car Electrical Problems

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  • lincoln10lincoln10 Posts: 1
    my 03 lincoln town car while driving the dash board lights start flashing, tempreture gage drops and speed indicator also drops any idea?
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    Getting into my car this AM i turned on the key and my drivers door window dropped appro 1/4" I had no idea why . I departed and as I was driving the window started to go down in 1/2" segments. By the time I got to work the window was all the way down. Pushing on the window switch was no help. I still can't get the window up
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    I have now taken the drivers door panel off and I have found that there is a cable that is just hanging inside. I'm not familiar with how this cable;e is routed but I can see a plastic housing that has a pathway for the up and ther down cable to go into. If I hold the cable and hit the switch the cable will go up to the plastic housing and tighten up. So the motor is fine, the switch is fine. It to be in this retract and deployment housing? Like maybe its come off its track or something.

    I have no idea how this housing comes out. I hope I haven't confused e=everybody and that someone knows exactly what I'm talking about and lead me accordingly.

    Thank you for any help.

    RV
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    You need to replace the widow regulator. To do so requires removing the glass from the door. You will need a drill, a center punch and a hammer. A regulator costs about $35, and is not too hard to replace if you are mechanically inclined. This is common on the panther bodies, Ive replaced all 4 already in our 95 Grand Marquis. The hardest part is aligning the glass back in so it goes up and down smoothly, or it will bind up the new regulator.
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    Thank you sir for your reply on the regulator replacement. I have a drill, a center punch and a hammer & Iam mechanically inclined. I'm sure I can buy the regulator from a Lincoln dealer and the $35.00 is real cheap.
    Now all I need to know is what do I center punch and drill out to get the regulator out? Also how does the glass come out of the channels?

    Your response is greatly appreciated.

    RV
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,322
    Would you hve to remove the window if it could be taped in the UP position with masking tape?
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    Yes you have to remove the window as it is in the way of the two ntop bolts on the track from going to the O?B side to drop the track.

    Just note on what direction you get the window out. It should come out after you drill out the rivets to the window by raising the aft end and coming out with the front part of the window first, You have to reverse your procedure going back in. Put the rear in first and then the front. I will have a complete removal and installation on my experience with this regulator. Its not just a drill, a hammer and a center puinch beelieve me. I just completed my removal and installation and I now know.

    RV
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    edited July 2010
    To attempt this replacement requires some mechanical ability. Removal of the inner door panel requires an upholstery "V" shaped tool to snap out the sides and bottom fasteners. The door handle cover plate has to be prided out from the front end.There will be a lug with a pressed on nut that has to come off before you can move this cover out of the way when removing the panel.. The door closer strap has a plastic end piece at both ends. Pry off with a screw driver and there will be two phillips head screws to take out. then remove the strap. Remove the phillips head screw at the top front of the panel. Using the "V" upholstery tool start to remove the panel gently starting at the front and working down and around the bottom and up the rear side. Be sure you get the tool inserted over the fastener that is holding the panel to the inner door. Check to make sure there is nothing else holding the panel to the door. Pull out on the bottom and push up to get the panel out of the top retainer and assure the panel is out and away from the door handle that stays connected to the door itself. Once the panel is free from the door there are wiring connectors that need to be removed. The door electrical switch panel is attached to the door panel with two phillips screws. remove the screws and the switch panel is now clear. Remove the seat control wiring panel, it has a phillips screw holding it on as well. Unplug the seat memory switches You should now be able to remove the panel completely from the door.

    Now starts the hard part-

    Remove as much of the black panel deadening material as you can- it doesn't have to be completely removed but enough to gain access to the SEVEN rivets that have to be drilled out. ( YES 7) Once the deadner material is removed you will see the regulator track and cables. The track is vertical. At the top under some black tape there are two holes drilled out where there are two bolts holding on the track. Remove those nuts with a 7/16" deep socket and ratchet. ( note mark the bracket where the nuts are so you can reinstall and tighten the nuts at the same place when you put in the new regulator) Get a piece of 1/4" plywood 9 1/2'" long X 4" wide and cut a 1/2" deep slot in its center on one end.. Put this piece of wood in the large opening at the aft end of the door panel under the glass window. This wood piece will hold the window glass at the proper height where you can remove the rivets attaching the glass to the track. using a punch and a hammer tap out the center inserts of all 7 rivets, with these inserts removed you will now be able to insert your drill bit into each rivet and start drilling them out completely. Remove the two holding the glass first. The aft rivet is easy to do as its out where you can see it, the forward one you have to go through an aligning hole that should be lined up with your wood piece installed. With these two rivets drilled out you should now be able to remove the glass. Forward end up and out first.. Now you have 5 rivets to go- two at the bottom of the track and three where the regulator is attached to the inner door panel.once these 5 rivets are drilled out you should now be able to remove the regulator assembly. With the glass removed completely you will be able to push the two top track studs out of the top bracket and the track should now fall down where you can remove it.

    With the regulator on the bench you will see where the black plastic housing holding the cable is attached to the motor assy. There are 3 torque headed screws that you have to remove to get the motor assy away from the regulator. Now at this time pay particular attention to how this motor assy is removed, as the plate that is riveted to the glass is part of this build up & will fall free and it has to go on the new regulator the same way it was on the old one.

    You are now ready to reinstall the regulator back in the door. You have to have 7 1/4" bolts approx 1/2" long, with lock washers, flat washers and nuts. These will replace the rivets you drilled out previously.

    Install the regulator assy back inside the door and insert the upper two studs into the upper bracket, put on the nuts and align on the marks you put there on removal. but do not tighten. Now put in two of the 1/4" bolts at the bottom of the track, just snug them up. Then put in three 1/4" bolts into the regulator housing and tighten these bolts to proper tightness.

    Remove the long rubber seal from the slot where the glass slides down into , this will provide more room for the glass to go into the door. Reinsert the Glass, use care as this is glass and can be broken. Do not force. Start with the rear of the glass in first and once the glass is in the door bring it down to your piece of wood.
    Now on my installation I had to lower the glass retainer down to line up with the holes in the glass bracket. Your electrical switch will operate , just turn on the key and operate the switch. Note - remember that this window has an auto open so keep your hands clear. Operating the switch you will get the hang of it and see where you have to go to align the two holes for the glass. Install the last two 1/4" bolts and tighten to proper torque. Reinstall the long rubber seal at the top of the door panel.

    Now the glass alignment. - operate the window and watch how the window travels , you do not want the window to drag as this puts undue strain on the regulator. Moving the upper two attach bolts to the right or left as they are slotted and also the bottom two bolts until you get a free smooth run on the window. Tighten the bolts top and bottom Operate a few more times to be sure you are satisfied with the operation.

    Now put the black deadner back in place and then the door panel back on. You are now back in business with a job well done.

    Door Regulator $119.00, I got it for $88.00 plus Tax at my Ford Dealer.
    P/N F3VY-5423209*A
    M/Hrs---------6 hours
    Ford wanted $477.00 including the part.
    .
  • 98 LTC (175,000 mi ) the radiator fan runs in both low and high speed cooling the engine with the AC when the outside temperature is 80ºf or lower. I have noticed that once the outside temperature increases to 90º or higher (Texas Summer) the fan works for a while and will then stop causing the engine temperature to climb to the red zone. I've tried turning off the AC to reduce the load, but that's no help. Relay appears to work for both the high and low speeds. The fan gets power. Not sure what else it could be.

    Ground issue that is effected by outside temp?
    Faulty Engine Temperature Control sensor?
    Is it possibly the fan?
    I'm puzzled. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  • acmetntacmetnt Posts: 2
    Hello - I have same issue. I have had 03 TC in dealership for 3 months. Starter, battery, wiring harness all replaced to no avail. I am now bringing car home. They said we cannot fix. Prob is they are on a fishing expedition at over $100 per hour. I cant afford to write a blank check to keep going. I have a friend that may get into it for much less. We are going to start w/ the security system. When I turn on the blinker, all the dash lights start to blink and gauges drop like yours. When I hit the button on my key chain to lock doors, the horn no longer sounds, thats why I am looking at the security sys. Also I have that same friend that had a similar issue on his car, and he found the short in the same system. If you have discovered any thing since this posting please help me out and I will do the same.
  • acmetntacmetnt Posts: 2
    I have a 03 TC thats been in dealership for 90 days w/o resolution. When turning on turn signal, all dash lights (all) begin to blink. Including all the idiot lights and the traction control lights that you would see when turning the key forward prior to starting. If on highway, not only do they blink, the cruise control will shut off. Once I turn off the blinker, I can reset the cruise, and all the lights go back to normal or off position. The problem had worsened and when I shut of the car, it would not re start causing a tow to the dealer. Dealer has replaced battery, wiringing harness in front of radiator, the starter where all wiring goes through etc. They are at a loss even after 3 months. The prob is they are on a fishing expedition at $100 per hour or so. I cant continue to write a blank check for the process of elimination. I am bringing it home today. Any ideas where I should start to look now? Ever heard of anything like this?
  • i have a 95 ltc the battery keeps going dead i replaced the battery it had a bad cell, and it still keeps going dead i now have a light on the passenger side under the dash board that keeps blinking does anyone know whats up with this?
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    The Panthers, which include the Crown Vic, Grand Marquis and Town Car all use what is called a GEM to control all the lights and a few other functions in the car. General Electronics Module I believe it the full name of the unit. It costs a couple hundred to replace, and is difficult to troubleshoot at times. Both posts above could tie directly to the GEM. I have a 95 Grand Marquis that had lighting issues, and we had a 2000 GM that also had issues, both traced right to the GEM. You can get a spare one from the junkyard to test with, just make sure it is for the correct model year and accessories. If you have electronic display dash, you need to use the one for that type of dash, if you have an analog dash, you need that type of GEM, they wont intermix even if they are the same make, model, and year car. The GEM is located under the dash on the drivers side, and is about 1 /2" thick, 4" wide 6-8" long, black plastic housing. To locate it easily, turn on the hazards and listen for the relay clicking, you can feel the relay clicks when you touch the box. It usually has one connection on it, and unplugging it will disconnect all your dash, turn signals, etc. You will know you have the right unit when that happens. Over time the relays wear and start to stick, and that can cause the battery to drain. They can also short and cause all kinds of havoc with dash lights.

    I'll bet the dealer wants to charge a few hours in case they start out by swapping the GEM and blow the new one due to a short somewhere else, so they cover their butt on it.
  • Was having a problem with battery going dead and radio coming on any time. Dealer disconnected radio and was running again. Left the car sitting in FL under oaks for several months with trickle charger on battery. Wouldn't start so got new battery. Would run only if poured gas in manually. Then key wouldn't turn ignition switch so auto locksmith removed and cleaned it out. Key moves again. Trailored it to 2 different mechanics. One tried replacing the fuel pump and the crankshaft sensor. One thinks it's the VAT system chip and has to do with the theftproof system. Tried to reprogram the module and mine worked in another Lincoln but shorted out as soon as put back in my car. He spent 2 days on it and says there's a short somewhere but wants me to junk the car. It's a 1998 but only 124000 miles and was running great before it sat so long. It does have a bad water leak soaking the passenger floor after rains. What do I do?
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Honestly, scrap it, it isn't worth the costs to repair. Seriously the car is worth more scrap than you can sell it for. Wiring issues like you describe take hours and can cost large sums, especially if you have to replace the dash harness, which is what this sounds like. With a water leak that you described, chances are the wire harness has corroded, and that right there is a very expensive repair, the harness alone, if it can be found, can cost up to $600, and several hundred more to replace it, not counting any other short harnesses that may be damaged.
    I learned a long time ago, never park a car outside for any length of time if you plan to keep it. I have a 1999 F350 Dually Diesel, parked it outside for a month, and now have to replace all the brake components, they seized up from the dampness, now I have it parked in the garage, with a trickle charger on the batteries, and a cover on it to keep the paint clean. I roll it out every so often to prevent flat spots on the tires.
  • help help help!!!!! how do i close my sunroof without having the plastic button to my sunroof switch?
  • If yours is a factory moonroof, there is an unholstered panel set into the headliner over the rear seat, behind the moonroof opening. Remove the panel. Remove the sliding roof motor. This will expose a splined crank, similar to the crank on a regular window regulator. Turn this crank shaft, and the roof panel will close. If it is only the switch which has broken, can't you remove the courtesy light housing, which contains the moonroof switch, and jump the wires at the switch to electrically close the panel? The switch on my moonroof has broken already. The dealer was able to supply a new one, at that time, but it was the wrong colour, though. It works just fine. I've since come accross one at the wrecking yard, which I bought as a spare, just in case the new one ever breaks.
  • hey did u ever get this problem fixed?? if so how did u correct it? im having the same issue and in the process nearly $$overhauled$$ my car trying to find this problem.
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    On the 95 Town Car Can anybody tell me how to remove the dash where I can gain access to the back of the digital speedometer? Would appreciate any help.

    Thank you
    RV
  • I sold the Lincoln for $725 for parts and when the buyer met me at the motor vehicle office to correct the paperwork, he drove up in it. He took it to the Lincoln dealership, they ran the diagnostics for $300 and it cost $35 for the key sensor part which fixed it. He showed me the little piece of plastic that was replaced. I'm still without a car and he has the Lincoln worth over $3000 with 113,000 miles on it. Everyone told me not to take it to the dealership because they would charge all this labor and never find the problem. The buyer had agreed to pay me $800 until the mechanic who had worked on the car told him the problem was bad. I won't use that mechanic again.
  • I have a 2003 lincoln town car signature and the rear power windows are completely dead. I know its not the regulator since I can't hear anything at all. The switches just don't do anything. I hear no motor moving and the windows don't respond at all. They don't slip down manually either. They just don't respond when you try to open them from the front or the rear.

    I've looked at the fuse diagram and the power windows are connected with the moonroof/radio,both of which are working fine, so I've ruled out a bad fuse problem.

    The memory seats are a little quirky but still work and the pedal adjuster motor is not working very well (moves pedal just a couple of millimeters). I can't hear the parking sensors either. Otherwise the rest of the electricals seem to be working fine and dandy.

    Has anyone else experienced this? If so, any solutions?
  • PS: BOTH rear windows are out.
  • Did you ever get to the bottom of this. I'm having the same problem with a 2000 town car. The air shock compressor does run occasionally, but not enough to be a suspect. My keyless entry was having problems and the lights were coming on intermittently, but that has been disabled now. Any help appreciated.
  • pacific20pacific20 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    Two months ago I was idling for an hour in traffic and air suspension light came on then trac light then abs light, then entire cluster started blinking on and off, I turned off ac off and things went back to normal. Parked for 30 min and needed battery jump.
    Flash forward a week ago went to start and nothing but clicking. Replaced Battery.
    Checked alternator output 14.1 v.
    2 days ago driving interstate and air, trac, abs light come on one at a time, cluster goes dark and engine quits. Stop car, starts up like no problem and gets home.
    Today's start was almost normal but before I could release the starter the cluster went dark. There it sits. I'm not sure where to start.
    One other event a month ago in a heavy rain the wipers would barely move, they were in super slow mo, but set on fast.
  • qsoqso Posts: 32
    shiftless2

    Can you tell me what is required to remove the dash board upper cover on a 95 Towncar?

    Thanks

    RV
  • I have a 2005 LTC and my dash lights will only work if the switch is in the off position. If I turn it to auto or to the on position I have no dash lights. I checked the dimmer switch and it seems to be working. The lights on the overhead console will dim as well as the lights on the door switches. Can someone please tell me what is going on?
  • richietcrichietc Posts: 1
    Check the child lockout switch on the driver's door window control panel. If the switch is bad, it will cut off power to the rear windows as if you had set it on lock. (Driver's door usually gets a lot of water related problems - it's opened the most in all kinds of weather)
  • dbgriffindbgriffin Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    i have a 2003 lincoln town car signature series and recently i starting having a problem with the key fob dosent work, seat wont move(drivers), heated seat dosent work(drivers) trunk latch wont open trunk and door locke wont work from any door> this problem occored suddenly and three days later went away. a week later it happened again for a few hours then has been random since. any help appreciated
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