Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Escape Brake Problems

12467

Comments

  • The last 8 numbers of my vin are: 4DA04515
    My ABS light does not light up when I start my car which from what I understand could mean that it is either faulty or I do not have ABS.

    Thank you for your help.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    OK, checked your VIN and for sure you don't have ABS. My other suggestion is to have the brake lines bled to get any air in the lines or have a complete flush of the brake system.
  • vg33,

    Thank you for checking my vin number. I have had my brake lines bled 3 time in the recent past. 1 when I had the complete break job, 2 when master cylinder was replaced, 3 yesterday after another brake job, and my mechanic checking for any other problems he could find. It is so frustrating.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    I am sorry that your mechanic cannot find the culprit. Only other components that could possibly be faulty are:

    Rt. Ft. Caliper #YL8Z-2V120-ABRM ($99.37)
    Lt. Ft. Caliper #YL8Z-2V121-ABRM ($70.30)
    Proportioning Valve #YL8Z-2B091-BA ($55.12)
    Power Booster #YL8Z-2005-AA ($210.07)

    These part numbers are specific to your Escape and those are its MSRP's
  • jvdx02jvdx02 Posts: 2
    I purchased a 2010 XLT Escape 2 weeks ago. I got all of 13 miles from the dealership when the ABS and Traction control light came on. Once I pulled over, turned off the car, turned it on again and then made a turn the lights went off. This has happened 8 times now. I brought the car back to the dealership for service. THey kept it over night test drove it all over the place and the best they could say was that they had to clear the lights and reset the trac system. Well on my way home the lights came on again! Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • tyatestyates Posts: 2
    our 2005 ford escape has had the grinding rear brakes we bought it used in '07. we have had them checked many times and told that is 'normal'. we have replaced the front brake pads every six months since buying it due to the pads being wore out. got the brakes and rotors replaced last september. just had them replaced last week (april 2010) due to high pitched noise (not during braking). was told the brakes had 'crystalized'. picked the car up from the mechanic and on the way home still heard squealing. mechanic said wait through 'break in period'. drove the car 20 miles and when got out smelled 'brakes', checked front of the car and no smell. rear brakes we smoking and could smell it really strong. worried that it might catch fire before getting it back to the shop. called the mechanic and he said might let some air out??? wth? a friend said that the back brakes are self adjusting and that i need to drive it in reverse and slam the brakes on a couple of times... doesn't seem safe to me! has anyone had this problem and can i do something about it or should i have it towed to the mechanic?

    thank you for any help! :confuse: :cry:
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    If your rear brakes were smoking and strong burnt brake compound was present after parking. Your rear brakes need to get checked out. Sound like the rear brakes are over adjusted or the rear cylinders are seized up open either way your shoes (asuming you have rear drum brakes) are constantly rubbing up against the drum, definately a fire hazard. One way you can check is by jacking up the rear wheels (one at a time) DO NOT put parking brake on and try to spin the wheel. If the wheel does not move then you have what I just mentioned. If the wheel moves from 3/4 to 1 and 1/4 turn, then your rear brakes are fine. Let us know what you find out.
  • tyatestyates Posts: 2
    ok, jacked suv up and tried to spin wheel, but only with alot of force. Have disc brakes in back, no springs. Can't see anywhere to adjust brakes? Any other suggestions, or should I take to shop?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    edited April 2010
    Your Escape has rear disc brakes for regular braking, However, it also has separate rear brake shoes that are used for parking only. The center part of your disc brakes also acts as a small drum where the rear shoes are located.

    Were you by any chance accidentally driving with your parking brake applied, even just slightly? Other then that and having the parking brake adjusted too much would cause the smoke and brake burnt smell.
  • michelem1michelem1 Posts: 1
    I have an all wheel drive 2007 Ford Hybrid Escape.
    At 36, 600 miles the master cylinder went out. Brakes squishy, would not hold until pressed almost to the floor, very scary. Some surging and acceleration preceeded this problem. I took it in to the dealer, they said the computer said it was the master cylinder, which they replaced to the tune of $1,800. The car was just off warranty.
    This sucks. I am dubious about Ford escaping liability for replacement of that cylinder and braking.
    Here is my question: HOW LONG SHOULD A MASTER CYLINDER LAST?
    I live in Seattle, WA., if that makes it different from South Dakota. Hilly, but not exactly like San Francisco, and in the normal course of driving my routes are pretty flat. Any info about similar issues with your Ford Escape and any basic car knowledge about how long a master cylinder should last would be very helpful! Thanks.
    Michele
  • We just had the traction control light show up on our 2010 Ford Escape limited. Car only has 5,000 miles. We tried to turn off the light with the manual override button...nothing. Thank goodness we immediately took the car in for service the next day. When the mechanic at the dealer took if for a test drive, the wheels on the right side locked up, car lost control - no joke. They had to replace a few sensory modules: AIr Bag Restraint system module, and the restriant control module. Not sure what those mean, but don't mess around if if that light goes on and won't turn off. Apparently it was so bad when it happened, it freaked the mechanic out pretty bad. Thank god we weren't in the car with the family!
    Hope this helps!
  • has anybody had trouble separating the rubber to metal brake line connection on a 2005 ford escape/mazda tribute? the front passenger side line blew, so we removed the line from the caliper, removed the spring and loosened the strut bolt to release the line, then removed the spring and loosened the rubber to metal line fitting, but we can not separate them, any tricks? or maybe we missed a step? any feedback would be appreciated. thanks 2.3l, auto, fwd, 105k
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    You should just be able to pull off brake line after removing the horse shoe locking clip. Perhaps a few twists to break the seal between the rubber hose and the metal line.
  • Good to hear this happened to a dealer as my brakes failed (only had 30% braking power) about 5 times already over 60k miles when the traction control light unexpectactly come on. Had it to the dealers twice and they where unable to find a faulty component. Sounds like in desperation they replaced a lot of stuff and also didn't find the true problem that causes this failure.

    FORD suck not being able to pin point the failure and letting consumers drive these vehicles, talk about Toyota having issues!

    Good luck, I hope yours doesn't re occur like mine. I am lucky as mine is a company car and we change @ 65k, 1k more to go whoo hoo!
  • $1,200 is a lot of money, but it could be worse.

    I have a 2006 Escape Hybrid with 101,000 miles. The ABS Hydraulic Control Unit went out. OK, 101,000 miles. I can see something going out. The dealer said the replacement part was $4,500 plus 4 hours of labor for installation. I paid $29,000 for the car. If you back out transportation, Dealer profits and overhead costs and Ford profits, SG&A, advertising, etc, I can't imagine the direct material cost on the car when sold was more than $20,000. And this one stinking part - which can only be bought from Ford - is $4,500. It's criminal what they charge. So, sorry about the Master Cylinder, but it could have been worse.

    At least I received a nice form letter reply from Ford when I complained about a part costing $4,500 though. I mean, no money or recognition that they were screwing their customers, but a nice form letter nonetheless.
  • m0582m0582 Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    I'm having the same problem with my 2002 Escape
    did the master cylinder fix your problem?

    I have put 2 master cylinders, front calipers, front flex lines, front pads and rotors, rear wheel cylinders and rear shoes and I'm STILL having this problem. tha car will have good brakes for a couple of weeks and then one day i go to stop and the pedal goes right to the floor just like i blew a line. i come home crack the bleeder screw on the left front caliper get some air out and i'm good to go for a couple more weeks. the funny part is the brake fluid never goes down. even when i loose the brakes the level is still right on full.

    if someone can help please send advice, before i drive this thing to the scrap yard!
  • Today, my daughter's 2003 Ford Escape rolled out of it's parking stall and came to rest on the vehicle parked behind it. About a month ago, my boyfriend raised concern over the "ease" by which the E-brake applies. (Feels like no resistance when you engage it) I mentioned it to a mechanic who said he didn't think there was any issue with this..... hmmmm OK - I think there is!
    I searched and don't see any recalls. Does anyone have any info on this and is there a way to correct it on my own?
    The emergency brake was pulled all the way up (Between the seat brake) and the manual transmission appeared to be in 1st gear at the time. (When I checked, I had to move the stick-shift down slightly before it "popped" into neutral but, I'm guessing it must not have been completely in 1st gear.....either that, or it had popped out ? ??) Who know's - probably operator error there but, the E-brake clearly didn't perform it's job. Especially being the grade was so slight. Thank God, nobody was hurt! and, lucky for me.... no damage to either car.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    First off I think you need a new mechanic!

    Lastly, you need the new mechanic to adjust your rear shoes. Your e-brake handle should have resistance and only go up about 1/4 of the way up.

    Good luck!
  • Did anything ever happen with your car? The same thing happened to us last night. My husband crashed into a pole to stop the car. He and my four year old daughter are okay. The car is now totalled, going to the scrap yard, and I want answers as to this phantom problem. There was a recall in 2008 on the ABS sensor. I took the car in. They gave the car the green light. I am having trouble digesting this, because the problem seems as if it were cased by the ABS sensor going out.

    I am grateful the only injury was caused to the pole he crashed into. The air bags did not go off either.
  • My husband crashed our 2002 Ford Escape XLT into a pole to stop the car. He and my four year old daughter are okay. The car is now totalled, going to the scrap yard, and I want answers as to this phantom problem. There was a recall in 2008 on the ABS sensor. I took the car in. They gave the car the green light. I am having trouble digesting this, because the problem seems as if it were cased by the ABS sensor going out, as all four brakes did not function at all for that moment. Today, and the vehicle still was full of hydrolic fluid, as well the brakes WORKED!!!

    I am grateful the only injury was caused to the pole he crashed into. The air bags did not go off either.
Sign In or Register to comment.