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BMW X5 Maintenance and Repair



  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    My garage was hot for a few days. Today it was cool so the work continued.....

    I pulled out fuse #27 that shuts the interior lights off. I placed a meter between battery cable and the body chassis. After starting the car and let the battery to be charged for 10 minutes, I shut the engine off. I disconnected the battery connection to the body with the Amp meter intact. I then shut all doors. The current went down to 1.05A. After a minute, it went down to 0.52A. After 15 minutes, it went down to between 0.05-0.07A (flutuates) in sleep mode.

    I then retored fuse #27, turn ignition key to 1, 2. then off. Shut all doors. The current behaves the same way.

    Mysteriously, I do not see 1A sleep current anymore. All I did was (accidentally) disconnect and reconnect battery multiple times. All I can conclude is that something is not reliable, this problem may appear again someday.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    This is just a thought, but I suspect there is some kind of circuitry (electronic control module/light control module) that is failing to put the circuitry into sleep mode. The fix might be as "simple" as upgrading software or replacing the unit in question. Disconnecting the battery may have jolted the the control unit back into proper operation but if it happened once it can happen again.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • brohunbrohun Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 X5 3.0. My check engine light came on at near 50k miles. The dealer 1st said it was a loose gas cap! the truck has been at the dealer 8 times with no fix yet. They replaced the gas cap, reprogramed the computer a couple of times and now BMW wants to test the gas tank and possible replace! I'm told that there are several other vehicles at my dealer with the same problem! Has anyone else had this problem?? Is there a fix?? :sick:
  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    My 2001 X5 4.4 light would come on momentarily for no reason. Dealer said while filling the gas, I should have radio turned off. It does not sound intuitive! Dealer also changed the gas cap, the light still turns on momentarily.

    While gas price was high a year ago, I started to use regular unleaded 87 gas. The light stays on, until I changed to premium gas 91. I wonder if the light turns on because the octane level was low in the gas?
  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    Since two years ago, my 2001 X5 started to loose columns in the dot matrix display. This includes display in the instrumentation panel, and the radio. A few columns are permanently gone and, a few columns would go on and off. Anyone knows how to resolve the problem?
  • hbustoshbustos Posts: 3
    I have the same exact issue, were you able to resolve the problem? Love to know what it was
  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    Here is a reply I got from another website for your reference. I also did some online search, there seemed to be no easy fix. y-has-missing-columns.html#post618511
  • hbustoshbustos Posts: 3
    Thank you. Did you jump start your car before this happened?
  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    Good point. Yes, this happened after I jump start the car. BMW manual had the instructions to prevent high voltage surge during jump by turning on lights and fan. This could be one of the consequences.

    One jump also caused my added CD player to fail, another caused my added subwoofer amp to fail. Note that my previous post on the sleep mode 1.2A leakage that started the whole event!

    My other thought is that the battery jump position is in the engine compartment, while the battery is in the rear trunk. The large surge current with the inductance of the wiring can cause the high voltage surge. I think the jump hook up should be to the battery in the rear trunk. A design issue!
  • hbustoshbustos Posts: 3
    That's it, but with all the engeneering that BMW has shouldn't the have thought about this potential issue? I heard that there may be a recall for this issue? Does anyone know? .

    Regarding the inductance of the long wire to the back is not it, I thought about that and I did the jump right at the battery.

    Anyway, if someone had the solution please le us know
  • I have lost all power to the front passenger side door. No power to the door lock, window or outside mirror. The fuses are fine. The dealership took a quick look at it, but didn't find anything obvious. Does anyone have any ideas before I take it back to the dealer for a more thorough and expensive look? Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I would suggest either bad electrical connections or a defective switch.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • miltimilti Posts: 14
    Dear Hosts,

    Some assisstance please.

    I have a 2006 X5 4.4 with 52,000 miles. Currently, my sunroof is stuck open in the vented position and the sliding cover is partially open by 3 to 4 inches. When I press the switch in any direction (to the front, to the back or up) nothing happens. I tried pressing up for 30 seconds and still no response.

    I'm unclear how and when this happened. I only remember I used the buttons on my key to unlock the doors and let the windows go down. When I got in the vehicle I noticed the problem.

    The owners manual says the unresponsiveness could of happened after the battery was diconnected--it was not. And that the system may have to be initialized.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    I purchased the vehicle at lease-end but have an additional 3 year 36,000 mile warranty--would this problem be covered?

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,983
    The basic warranty is 4 years / 50,000 miles and it sounds like that would cover the sunroof (as opposed to it being a powertrain warranty).

    So I guess the question is whether the additional 3/36 warranty you got when you purchased your X5 is a continuation of the "basic" one or does it just cover the powertrain. Probably going to have to read the fine print and ask the dealer.

    There were some TSBs for water leaks in the front passenger side cabin, but that doesn't look related to the sunroof.

    In the meantime, if you can find the right fuse, you could pull it and see if that resets the sunroof switch switch at all. That trick sometimes works with balky CD players.

    Any owners here have sunroof problems?
  • miltimilti Posts: 14
    Thanks Steve!

    The problem was fixed by changing the fuse in the glove box.

    thanks again
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,983
    Sweet. :shades:
  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    I have a 2001 X5 4.4i. 130 miles after the two front axle assembly replacement, ABS and Break light comes on, Speedometer stopped, Techometer momentarily working, temp needle goes to max. After some web search, I decide to test the ABS Speed sensors myself.

    After disconnecting the sensor connector in the wheel well, I measured the voltage coming out of the ABS module:
    0V - ignition off; 2.8V - ignition key pos 1; 2.5V - ignition pos 2.

    Measured the resistance across the sensor terminals:
    Left front - 8.5MOhm; Right front - 8.2MOhm.

    Attached a scope to the sensor output, spinning the front axle, I do not see any pulse coming out of the sensor.

    Removing the sensor from the hub assembly, found iron powder on the sensor tip. cleaned sensor tip. Placing a magnet at the tip of the sensor and moving magnet, barely see any voltage change.

    Looking into the sensor hole, spinning wheel, I do not see anything different after 360 deg rotation. It was just a metal drum. So what causes the sensor to pickup signal?

    Now I am wondering if the sensor is bad, or installation of the axle causes the hub assembly to fail? :confuse:

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  • boykieboykie Posts: 6
    Is purchasing the 2 year/50K mi extended maintenance and warranty covering 6 years/100K mi worth it?
    Should you purchase both or just one?

    BMW has a lot of electronics and I'm worried about the repair costs.
  • lion2000lion2000 Posts: 22
    I was offered with the extended warranties but I did not take them. Right now, on average, it cost me about $1500 each year including the maintenance. The extended warranty does not have the same coverage as the manufacturer's warranty and does not cover maintenance if I remember correctly. Warranty cost >$1500 each year. But it does bring you peace of mind just in case.

    My X5 this year is in its 9th year, 109K miles and the cost of repair may go over $1500 depending the findings of this incident. It's time to consider a new car and I need to research to see if BMW X5 has improved its reliability in the new models.
  • I made the mistake of buying a used 2003 BMW X5 from Carmax in Feb. 2007, with the extended warranty for $1,800. Since having the car, it has stalled in traffic about 13 times, massively shakes when the brakes are applied, and the transmission is slipping. Carmax said they fixed the rotors only to have the car shake again after 5 months. About two weeks ago, with my two year old in the car, it stalled in traffic and we were almost run over by a dump truck. Needless to say, my family has not been in the car since. I took the car to Carmax three times, and they never duplicated the stall, so, nothing was fixed. I took it to a BMW mechanic who said that this was a common problem and he wanted to do a software update. The Carmax warranty refused to cover the update and insuated that my mechanic should have lied and told him that he got it stall. Carmax then told me that they would send the car to a BMW dealership and have them look at the car. To make a long story short, no one could make the car stall, so, they would not do any work on the car and told me it was my problem, even though they knew it was an idling problem. I am now stuck with a car that I cannot have my family in and will most likely be out of a few thousand dollars to sell. I would recommend that you never buy a car from Carmax, and if you do, don't waste your money on the fraudulent warranty. I also recommend never buying a BMW, constant problems.
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