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Acura Integra Engine Questions

Hi i got a '95 Integra 2-Door and I was just asking if i can put a Acura RSX engine in it I like the engine in it allready but ther are so mounch stuff i can do whith the RSX so if you have aneythang to add feel free to add

thanks,

brandon1980
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Comments

  • I just bought a 2000 GSR from a dealership this past week and after a full day of driving it I had the check engine light come on. I took it to my mechanic and he said that he couldn't pull up any codes because I have an aftermarket ECU (Hondata S200) instead of the OEM ECU. Some other mechanics that work with him said that since I have a test pipe instead of the catalytic convertor that the car is recognizing an O2 sensor issue. Seeing how I have the aftermarket ECU is wont be able to overwrite the check engine light. They told me it shouldn't be a big issue and that it is perfectly fine if the car is running like it should. But at the same time I dont feel comfortable driving around in a car that has a check engine light on. IS there a way to correct this problem if there is a problem or should I just cut the wire so that light goes off? I really want to know how to find out if its the O2 Senor issue and how to correct it. If someone could be so kind to help me out that would be great.">
  • Hi! My son-in-law has an Integra Type "R". He was driving it, it was purring like the expensive kitten that it is. He shut it off, and it hasn't started since.
    It cranks but doesn't fire. My husband checked it out, and it's getting no spark. Question that we have is could it be the ignition module? Or the atual switch? And if it is the module, where is the module located? My son-in-law is an awesome guy, and we would really like to fix his baby for him.
    Help in this would be deeply, DEEPLY appreciated!
    Thanks!
  • redgsrredgsr Posts: 1
    On my 92 gsr the check engine light came on and now it wont rev past about 3000 rpm and i have no clue what is wrong if anyone has ideas it would be greatly appriatiated.
  • drbyersdrbyers Posts: 5
    test pipes are for people who don't give a damm about the environment and my ear drums.

    get a high-flow catalytic converter instead. that should clear up your check engine light issues.
  • drbyersdrbyers Posts: 5
    yes, you can put the RSX engine in it (k20), but it there very expensive.

    if I were you, i'd consider getting a JDM b18c5 or b18c5 (type R) engine instead. they'll be somewhat cheaper.

    or you could get a JDM h22a from a prelude that is much less and has much more horsepower and torque.
  • You know as the other guy said its best to go with Type R engine or GSR. What type of teg do you have anyways a LS SE GSR?? RSX that will be very $$$$!
  • wittorpwittorp Posts: 1
    I am just a home garage mechanic, a friend has helped me dismantle the head and bring to the shop for a valve job after a timing belt broke. I understand its almost a guarantee of bent valves as its a interference engine.
    Question, the number one piston is at the top right now and the crankshaft is on the timing mark. (piston 1 and 4 are at top now actually, and 2, and 3 are down.) With the Piston being at that posistion and the Crankshaft on the mark, is it definatly at TDC. Would any rotations possibly be required of the crank for TDC, or should I definatly be there seeing the piston at top?
    Also, when Installing the Camshafts, should I put both on in UP posistion and set the distributor back on the intake cam with rotor automatically at the number one spark plug wire posistion and all will be well? ( Of course prior to belt install). Thanks for input
  • lawill60lawill60 Posts: 1
    I have a '91 ACURA INTEGRA HATCHBACK (5spd) that I bought from a neighbor for 900 bucks. The car was running but all of sudden the engine wouldn't start - as if fuel or it was getting a spark.

    I took the car to a mechanic and he's telling me I need a new head gasket. I'm skeptical b/c I didn't see any smoke from the engine or tail pipes. Is my skepticism valid?

    ACURA OWNER FOR LIFE!!!!!
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Our integra has the 1.8 liter engine and auto trans. Occaionally it starts very hard after cranking it about 30 seconds, waiting 5 minutes and cranking again. It starts up normally when cold. There is no lack of power when running and the S3 light is on when we try to start it. Yesterday it started hard after sitting outside in 90 degree heat and monday afternoon after driving it ten minutes to go shopping. Any help would be greattly appreciated.
  • mdobbinsmdobbins Posts: 1
    The yellow check engine light is on in my car, the person I bought the car from said that means I need an oil change, which I already had done. The light is still on, what does that mean? Also the ABS light comes on for a couple minutes and then turns off. I recently had the front brake pads and driver's side caliper replaced. So what do you think I should do? The car has 111,000 miles on it and is a 1995 Integra LS.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    In the past ten days I have noticed two things. It starts very hard on a hot day (90 degrees or more). If the S3 light is flashing, it will not start at all.
    Yesterday I had our local garage come over and check it out. They replaced the Main Relay two hours later and it starts ok now. The main relay is located under the dash on the drivers side. Remove the plastic panel to gain access.
  • olyboy636olyboy636 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 88 integra 2 door hatchback . The guy I bought it from just had the engine rebuilt at a shop in Texas (yes he had paper work) and it looks to have been rebuilt as well. Here's the questions, when i start her up she likes to jump between RPM's when the clutch is pressed in at say a stop light. Goes between 600 and 900 Rpms just randomly then other times it idles alright. Any idea's because that is the ONLY problem with the car. Thanks!
  • blt_tegblt_teg Posts: 3
    Hey bro when i did y cam job i noticed the exact same thing make sur to put your cams in the up posistion and by all mean use the timing mark on the crank pulley tdc on the crank mark is not true tds for the engine it's the way the engines are timed hope i helped man any other questions hit me up
  • blt_tegblt_teg Posts: 3
    if it is the check engine light disconnect your battery let the ecu reset and if it still is on after your reset then i would suggest changing the o2 sensor if it is your maintenance required light then just go underneath the panel beneath your steering wheel and there is a button it's square that you need to depress for three seconds to turn the maintenance light off
  • blt_tegblt_teg Posts: 3
    your erratic idle is caused by three possible things a vacuum leak your fast idle thermo valve of your idle air control valve. you can spray around with startin fluid on the lines to see if you can get your car idle to spike if its not that you can clean your IACV it's on the back of the intake manifold use carb cleaner in the ports and make sure you dry it well. as for the fast idle thermo just find a junkyard or recycler and replace.
  • nylajnylaj Posts: 24
    I have been having this issue for a couple of years since living in FL. I would take my '91 manual, LS Integra out during lunch time in the summer and then when I was ready to return to the office, the thing wouldn't start. I would have to wait a few moments and then try it again. Usually it would start after a few tries. No one believed me when I told them this was happening. Now it seems to be happening again. The mechanic checked the distributor and noted that there seemed to be debris/interference on the connection (sorry for my lack of knowledge on this but that is the best I can do) and he replaced 'leads'?, cleaned it up, replaced the "gunky" spark plugs (due to all that cranking of the engine he says) and then it started right up. He started it up on and off all day on Thursday with no problem. I picked it up on Friday (started strong, like a dream), drove it to my job and then parked it overnight. I went to pick it up on Saturday and no go. :confuse: The engine cranked but would not start. We are at a loss here. Any thoughts out there as to what it might be? We have it narrowed down to ignition switch, computer related or distributor but my gut says it is something simple and not so obvious so I'm turning to my fellow Integra owners. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Nyla
  • nylajnylaj Posts: 24
    Forgot to add. . .it started up perfectly this Monday morning. My mechanic doesn't think it is the Main Relay as he recalls the check engine light coming on during "cranking". Is it light staying on or off? I don't remember. . .any thoughts?

    Thanks again.
  • zainjzainj Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 96' Integra. I live up North in Canada, and the problem only happens during summer time for me. I usually have to wait 1 hour atleast until i can start the car again. A few things i did was: right after you turn the key, press the acclerator right after. This worked sometimes for me. I also sometimes have to play around with a couple of wires under the steering wheel, which helped alot but not all the time. I have taken the car to alot of people and no one can figure out, even Acura Dealership couldnt figure out the problem so far. Will keep you updated if something good happens. Some have said it could be the Alternator, but havent tried that suggestion yet.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    They have a term for this condition, it's called the "petrol station relay". The relay controls the FUEL PUMP. Click on the link on message #15 and wander around the site, they explain it in detail.
  • zainjzainj Posts: 2
    Thanks bro
  • its your fuel injectoin relay under driver side dash
  • dlngpadlngpa Posts: 2
    I have a recently acquired '91 Integra (B18A1)with 5 speed transmission. I'd like to slow down the inital idle speed at cold startup. It seems to run at at 1,800 rpm for a couple of minutes each time I cold start it. Incidentally, I live on the central coast of CA so "cold" start means first start of the day even though the outside temperature is usually 55 degrees or so. The fuel delivery system probably has 286K miles on it as that's the odometer reading, altho the engine/transmission were replaced just prior to my purchase. The only manual adjustment I can locate is the brass idle screw at top of the throttle body and that doesn't seem to change anything much. I removed the air intake tube at the throttle body and sprayed the throttle plate with carb cleaner, that seemed to speed things up even more! Any input would be appreciated!
  • dlngpadlngpa Posts: 2
    After checking out the Haynes Manual a little further, I find reference to disconnecting the electrical connector at the Idle Air Valve before adjusting the idle air screw. Now I need to find out the proper way to disconnect that connector without breaking it in the process. I suspect it probably is done in a straight down fashion from the connector, but wonder if there isn't an unlatching process first. Any suggestions available?!
  • Hello all,

    I have always liked my friends GSR and a guy I work with has one he is selling. A 2000 GS-R for 5500. The only issue I have is that the car has 138k miles on it. I know the car is worth the money, but I am kind of leary about the miles. Can anyone help me with how long the VTEC engines last mileage-wise and what expenses I might take on given the cars age and miles??? Thanks in advance for any advice you all can give.
  • Hello, I put a generic fuel additive into my 88 acura integra yesterday and filled it up and drove about 1 mile, then parked for 24 hours. Today drove about 5 miles and it died at a stop light. Normally verrrry reliable and I attribute it to the additive..?? Any one else with experience with this? Ideas on where to start?

    Thanks for your time.
  • depending on what kind of additive you put into your car and whether or not you put it in before you filled up or after. If you put it in before you could be running on straight additive hence why your engine would just turn off with not enough combustion. if you added octane booster or something of the sort then you could have over heated your motor and burnt or welded your valves shut. best thing to do is disconect your fuel line at the intake and purge the system. then fill up with some regular gas and dont try additive again.
  • jt12jt12 Posts: 1
    If your rpms are going up slow till 3000 one of your pistons is not working: try basic spark plugs check it may just be a non firing piston. Happened to me on the freeway with my turboed sohc ek(piece of junk) well they came loose and the plugs were burnt so try that and goodluck because if not it may be something far more serious.
  • rabit1rabit1 Posts: 1
    98 gsr no spark good ignition module good coil got power to dizzy what do you think it could be a bad ignition or cam sensor thanks larry stone :lemon:
  • Well I know they are not the same type of cars but my friend Chewy (not his real name) has a 89 Honda Prelude Si and when he first got it, it had the same problem we cleaned the distributor, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the lines from the distributor to the spark plugs but it still wouldn't kick over because it wasn't getting any spark from the plugs, it was awhile ago but it was the coil in the distributor that was burnt out so if you replace it that should work no promises though ok
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