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Acura Integra Engine Questions



  • wavtamwavtam Posts: 1
    2001 with 100,000. Just recently I've notice that the car will start immediately, but will stall when I drive to the end of the street with stop sign. A little hard to start then. Once I reach normal operating temperature, no problems. Then pattern repeats daily. Your thoughts. WAVTAM
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    I'd suggest that first thing to do, is to pull the codes off the ECM, and go from there. There's too many possible causes to even begin to think about, but if there are any codes stored in the OBD system, that'll start you at least in a particular direction.
  • I have a 94 Integra Ls. 174k. Recently it has been makeing a whinning sound kinda like gears grinding or a worn out bearing. it sounded like it was comeing from the distributer so i changed it. the sound is still there. its not so bad when i add thicker oil. what could it be......
  • duckyzduckyz Posts: 1
    In my 1992 acura integra LS I have replaced the radiator, thermostat and all the hoses, and still have a leak coming from where the top radiator hose comes hooks into the engine. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks
  • dwreillsdwreills Posts: 9
    Are you sure it's not a power steering pump noise? Sometimes they whine when low on fluid or they're on the way out. But if you're adding thicker oil and reducing the noise I'd look at cam bearings.
  • dwreillsdwreills Posts: 9
    If you've replaced "all" the hoses then check if the flared "pipe fittings" that the hoses fit over are clean. All the older Honda/Acura motors I've worked on develop a corrosion problem on these fittings that seems to be a combination of rust and crystalized antifreeze and it can be quite hard. Sometimes a hose won't seal around this formation because it grew in the old hose and the hose deformed to accomodate it. Hence no more flare. If you have this junk on your fittings, scrape, sand or file it clean and if your fitting is badly pitted after removing the junk smear some high temp silicone around the fitting before you slip the hose on. Sometimes the spring clamps are weak too and I've had to resort to American type screw clamps to get enough pressure to seal it. I also had one where the leak was from a split in a tiny intake manifold heating hose just below the upper rad hose that made it look like it was coming from the rad hose. Had the rad hose off three times before I realized where it really was coming from.
  • Hello

    1. all liquid levels are great
    2. believe starter works
    3. spark plugs are in great condition

    engine turns over but does not start; therefore, I believe fuel is not getting to the engine. Spark plugs are sparking and all else is well. Not sure what may be wrong, please any guidance is greatly appreciated. I am mechanically inclined and am an egineering student. Please respond via here or

    thanks for any help
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
    Try this... before you try to start the car, just turn the key to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump running. If you do hear it, then try to start the car. If it starts after the "fuel pump trick" I'd wager the pressure regulator that keeps pressure in the fuel line (like overnight so there's fuel at the engine to start up in the morning) is leaking off that pressure.

    If you don't hear the fuel pump running (should sound sort of like an electric motor humming), then the fuel pump is likely the cause.

    If you hear the pump running and it still doesn't want to start, then you must be looking at either something preventing the fuel from getting to the engine or a spark issue.

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  • Does your "check engine" light stay on or off after turning ignition on?

    If it stays on its your grounds. This is an issue that I have not found very many Acura dealers or owners know about.

    If you have questions contact me at

    BTW I believe the fuel pump is under the rear passenger seat, drivers side.
  • wise7wise7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS with a 4 cylinder engine non Vtec. The car is a great car and I have not had any problem with it except recently it is overheating constantly. I have changed the thermostat a couple of times and the car still overheats. Any idea what could it be?

    Charles Wisniewski
  • amy732amy732 Posts: 1
    my car was over heating a month ago, and it sat in my drive way like that up until 2 nights ago, we replaced the coolant line, put oil in it, anti freeze, transmission stop slip, radiator stop leak, and it sounded good in my drive way, idiling was low, not as much smoke in the back. we then took it for a test drive and sure enough it was over heating again. what else could it be. my water pump is fine
  • my car would not start or turn over so I checked the fuse#18 starter signal fuse it is hot but the wire to the starter was not so I ran a wire from fuse#18 to the starter and now it will turn over but no fuel to the injecters. so I checked the main fuel relay to see if the yellow/black wire had continuity and power to the pump it does untill you turn on the key thin it has no power or continuity to the pump. I can run a wire from the battery to the pump and here the pump working but no fuel to the engine. I know there is a fuel press. regulator control solenoid could that stop the fuel from reaching the injecters? I can spray starting fluid in the intake and it will start till the starter fluid runs out thin it stops. Thanks for any sugestions, Craig904
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    How do you know that your water pump is fine? You don't mention as to whether or not you checked and/or replaced the engine coolant thermostat, or the engine coolant temperature sensor, which turns your cooling fan on and off, as needed. Did you hear your cooling fan running at all? Also, there are fuses and/or relays involved in the cooling fan circuit, as well as an 'after-run' timer I believe. Get yourself a service manual - they're only $25.00 and have all the info you'll need to solve this - Haynes part number 12021.
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    Sounds to me as if the ECM or if equipped, your alarm, system might have set a DTC or disabled the starter and fuel circuits, respectively. If not, check your starter solenoid and/or relay, and ignition switch for getting current through to the solenoid. Just finished replacing the electrical part of the switch in a '92 Accord, as it was bad order just enough to disable the ignition system immediately on the return of the key to 'run' position after it started, of course causing it to quit.
    Just because you can hear the fuel pump MOTOR running, does not necessarily mean that the PUMP is working. Get yourself a service manual - it will have all the info that you'll need to solve this problem - they're only $25.00 - Haynes part # 12021. I've been troubleshooting my nephew's '90 hatchback for the past four years, but not familiar with the '93 particularly, but I've forty years experience as a back-alley mechanic, and find these manuals very helpful, if not a downright necessity. It'll tell you how to check fuel pressures and all sorts of other things 'on the cheap', and how to clear the DTC off the ECM after you pull any off, etc. All you have to do is be able to read and understand - teach yourself.
  • eroc1eroc1 Posts: 4
    I replaced the fuel pump 3 weeks ago, and the car failed yesterday. Turning over fine--no fuel from the filter being pumped--followed notes on checking relay--seems okay--clicking as described--check engin goes off and second click occurs as described. I have voltage, as described on the 1 and 2 ports on the relay with switch off--and voltage at 1, 2, and 5 with switch on. also have voltage at sending unit under rear seat. Must remove tank to check pump--but I feel it's getting power, but no "whizzing" of pump when switch is turned of, and definetly no fuel out of filter going to injectors. Can this pump REALLY have failed already? HELP????
  • hey i own a 97 acura integra rs and ive been having an odd problem lately. usually im pretty good with mechanics but not this time around. the cars a 5 spd. and wen im in a lower rpm in a higher gear and i really get on it it sputters. the only way it doesnt do this is if i drive it like a grandpa. its only when i get on it that it sputters and shakes a little and has trouble gettin up to speed. everyone tells me its a fuel problem but i need expert help
  • i have a 94 integra ls 5 speed an just recently it has started hesitating and jerking and its getting progressively worse. I think it might be an engine problem but im not sure.
  • lodewickuslodewickus Posts: 2
    '90 B18A1

    Last year I ran the car out of fuel by mistake since my fuel gauge needle was broken and not giving the correct indication to the fuel level.

    Since then I've had other issues such as a cracked heat gasket where I had the block swapped out for a 'new' one. I figured the problems with the car would be resolved with this, which it was, until I got the fuel tank to half, at which point the car would nearly die when coming to a stop and idling. Starting is fine, driving is fine, idling itself is somewhat OK (it bounces between 600-750), but the problem comes up with coming to a complete stop. It's almost as if the fuel injection is forced to kick in to get fuel in to the engine.

    The other issue since this occurrance is that the engine light would pop up and I'm getting a 43 on the ECU. At first I figured it'd be an issue with the new resonator and extractors I had put on, but then remembered I had this issue last year already before the new resonator and extractors. If I pull over, turn off the engine then back on, the light goes away but comes back on after cruising for a while again.

    The engine light will pop up when cruising at a set RPM (3k about, no matter the gear), but driving randomly (city driving) it doesn't come on at all. The idling to near death coming to halt doesn't happen unless the fuel tank is half full.

    I have a strong feeling that I have the original O2 sensor (car has less than 100k miles, new engine is 30k), so that'd probably need to be replaced, but I am sure that this is not causing the idling issue.

    Any ideas would be most appreciated!
  • lodewickuslodewickus Posts: 2
    I had the same issue before changing my block since I left the problem for too long.

    My issue was I had a crack in the heat gasket between the block and head, which caused coolant to flow in to the engine. The more coolant that got in there, the worse it got.

    You can check this by looking at the spark-plugs. If the dirt on them looks like foam/white fluid, this is it.

    It can also be the fuel pump on its way out, you'd need to check the fuel pressure and see if what the values are against what you'd expect the values to be.
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    Sounds like you've got a fuel delivery problem, alright. First, check your fuel lines from tank to underhood to be sure there are no kinks/squashes in it, and consider changing out the fuel filter unless its already been done recently, for all they're worth. If you don't already have a service manual, I strongly suggest you get one - Haynes #12021 for about $25.00 - it'll be a hell of a help, and it'll pay for itself the very first time you use it, by preventing your making silly mistakes by not having the knowledge you need beforehand. After you get the manual for the applicable info, check your fuel pressure, pressure regulator and O2 sensor, all of which you'll be able to do yourself with the proper info.
    And it sounds to me like your IAC and FITV need some attention to fix your idling/near-stalling situation; I'd suggest that you do this right after checking your fuel lines and changing the filter, then check out the other stuff, because if the lines are okay, this might be the primary cause of it not running properly thru all rpm ranges; I don't think that getting down to or below a half-tank of fuel has much to do with it. For info on this that you can probably do yourself, go to

    Good luck. Give'er a try.

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