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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

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  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    When you turn the key to On (not start) all the dash warning lights come on and the security light also does - that one should go out after like 5 sec and if not then you have a Passlock problem in the steeering column and thats a GM dealer fix. Now if thats out not it so is tshe vehicle really in Park as theres an adjustment on the trans cable at trans - try N position and see or pushing into P again and test.
  • well i tried that i had the anti theft system chip replaces in the sterring collum and not 2 weeks later its doing the same thing again.
  • Hi, its a 1995 2-door 4.3L Vortec V6 chevy blazer w/ 150,000mi. When I start the truck, it was alright for about 5 seconds (this morning) and then I can hear clicking about every 3.5 seconds. On the 1st click, the engine throttles down from 700rpm to about 500, and about a half second to a second,(varies slightly) a second click occurs, and it throttles back up to 700rpm (all in idle state) When I am driving, it continues, and you can really feel it. I'm fairly certain it happens more often when you are rolling, but i haven't timed it.

    I do generally have to tap the gas to get the truck to start, and wasn't sure if this would be related or not.

    I've had this happen once before. It went away after a day or so, so I wasn't able to trouble shoot much. The last time this happened, and this time, the drivers window will raise, but not lower. When you try to lower it, the E-Brake light kicks on in the dash, and the rest of the internal lights dim (have not checked headlights).

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • hi this is brian i have a 2000 gmc jimmy and i had the same prob found out it was the TPS sensor try that it hope that works for u
  • had this issue with my 98 jimmy. did the whole mechanic routine, etc. dealer mechanic working off clock found burned/corroded coil ground wire. $6 problem gone. check the simple things.... I should have.
  • THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS BODY EFFECTS &,INTERIOR.THE BETTER OF THE TWO IS WITHOUT A DOUBT THE GMC JIMMY.
  • YES IT CAN BE CHIPPED ,BUT YOU STAND A CHANCE OF BLOWING THE MOTOR OR TRANNY,TO HIGH OF RPM'S.BEST LEFT ALONE.
  • I REACENTLY BOUGHT A 98 GMC JIMMY SLE.THE REAR WIPER WORKED THE FIRST 2 DAYS BUT THE REAR HATCH DID'NT OPEN .MY HUSBAND (CHEVYMAN49) FIXED THE HATCH BUT NOW THE REAR WIPER WON'T WORK.HE IS THE GREATEST MECHANIC AROUND & HE KNOWS WHAT THE PROBLEM IS .BUT I WAS WONDERING WHAT OTHERS MIGHT THINK THE PROBLEM IS. :confuse:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mikey153mikey153 Posts: 2
    My 96 blazer has a rebult 4.3 Vortec also a ammco rebuilt transmission. Problem is just on occaion the Brake and abs light come on. Any help
  • won't start cold unless i have someone squeez air intake hose shut......... replaced air intake sensor,coolant temp sensor & oil presseure switch..........any suggestions
  • Hi all,

    I have had my 1990 5.7L Blazer for 17 years and I finally need to change the motor. I am considering trying to convert it to a diesel. Any pointers or show stoppers?

    g :confuse:
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    I just bought a 2001 gmc jimmy. Has 100,000 miles. Bought it thinking the clunk was the ball joints or a loose/worn out shock. NOPE!!!! Replaced the ball joints with "Moog" brand. The clunk is only there when you go over bumps that resemble something like going over a set of train tracks. The truck has been to (3) GMC dealers, and (3) high end mechanic shops. NO one can figure out where the clunk is comming from. Trust me.... this thing has been pried, rocked, shook, climbed over, and under, and every part has been grabbed and shook to see what is loose or out of place. NOTHING!!!!!!!! However everyone says that as bad as the clunk is... we should be able to see the damage of what is broken....but we cant find it.....
    PLEASE can anyone give some advice of where to look? Could there be a spacer or rubber bushing that is still in place, but worn out? I dont just want to start ripping stuff apart "hoping" it does the trick.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    With that many miles the idler arm should have been changed by now. When worn, it makes a really loud clunk going over bumps. My favorite test is to find a road with the little reflector "bumps" down the stripe. Drive down the stripe with the wheels hitting the little bumps and a worn idler arm will really sound off. It doesn't take a lot of play in an idler to create a loud clunk. The driver can usually feel it in the steering wheel also.

    About a $50 part, takes about 20 minutes to install, will need a puller to separate the center link from the idler.
  • I have a jimmy too and it dose that but mine is a loud pop like some thing just Brooke but it only do that when I am backing out my driveway and the wheel role off the sidewalk, one day I let my wife drive it up the sidewalk and I lay flat on my stomach and I saw what made the pop sound it was the tie rod ends I change all of them and the drag link too no more popping sound, but bear in mind that if you are going over a bump with the steering turned all the way there will be a loud clank which dose not mean anything is wrong it's just the way most GM trucks are it's the coil spring that snaps back into position from turning, but any other noise other than turning must be taken seriously.
    Hope I was of help.
    :D
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    That sounds great if thats what it is!!!! Question: When I remove the idler arm, is it under force? Do you have to worry about it flying apart? OR is is as simple as you are describing.....just have a puller to seperate the part, and throw the other in, then tighten it up? Sounds simple enough if thats correct!!!! :shades:
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    Thank you for the reply, but it is more along the lines of the other reply to my post. Happens when you go down a "washboard" style dirt road. Im going to put in the idler arm like the other reply said, and prey it stops the clunk. Buying a new to me vehicle is never any fun.....I also found missing bolts(on the oil pan) while I was looking for this clunk. Geese I wonder who was the master mechanic who did that?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Nah, no springs to fly or anything like that. The shaft of the idler arm is tapered where it goes through the center link, so when tightened up it becomes a "press fit". A simple puller will separate the parts easily.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    Welp, bad news my friends.....changed the idler arm(was as easy as you said), no problems. The problem is the clunk is still there. I can feel it in the floor boards better then the wheel. You dont have to be going fast at all to have it make the noise....I'm talking 5mph on a washboard style dirt road, Or just hitting the pits and bumps when you stop at some traffic lights. Man.....this sucks :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Wish you were in central Texas so I could hear the sound. Have you looked to see if the transmission mount is broken? Motor mount maybe, but those generally don't "clunk".

    Do you feel any pulling in the steering wheel when it clunks? Check the upper control arm mounts at the frame where the shims are installed for alignment.

    Is there a lot of free play in the steering? Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of inches and compare the movement of the input shaft of the steering gearbox to the output shaft movement. Check for excessive play. The gearbox is adujstable, but I wouldn't do it unless you see noticeable play in the gearbox itself.

    I'm just going with what you are driving over when the clunk occurs here and trying to come up with some things to look at.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    I cant thank you enough for helping with this!!!!! The "clunk" sounds EXACTLY like a worn out shock bushing. Steering is very tight....no play. Also no pulling when the clunk occurs. My spare jimmy is a '94 model but it is 2wd. It had the same noise resembling a ball joint/ shock bushing......so I changed EVERY part on the front end including control arm bushings. The noise stopped. Im wondering since I put new ball joints on.....and a new idler arm and new shocks, if I shouldn't just do the pitman arm,, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings and see if that does it, but thats a job!!!!!! Im wondering if it isnt something to do with the 4wd system on this '01? Everything is working(4wd) doesnt clank or bang when you put it in 4wd and turn tires full left or full right and go in a circle.....no jumping or popping.......also sway bar bushings look GREAT, but should I change them to be sure? :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, generally a tie rod end that is loose enough to be heard will really affect the steering. There are a couple of bushings in the center link that could do this, but here again, when that loose you can get a lot of play in the steering.

    On the full size trucks, there has been a problem with the intermediate shaft in the steering column. The S series has a different design, but they can get noisy. Try grabbing the the steering shaft in the area of the center spark plug and give it a good yank back and forth and see if you hear the noise. You mentioned that the noise seems to be from the floorboards, and this is usually felt in the steering wheel, but don't want to overlook anything.

    Next, I would put the vehicle up on ramps, or with safe support under the front wheels and get underneath with a rubber mallet and start whacking. Sometimes a noise/looseness will disappear if the wheels are suspended, such as using jack stands on the frame.

    Okay, and this is a stretch, check the frame to body mounts. If the rubber of the mount is loose, or the bolt has backed out just a bit, loud clunk occurs.

    Does this vehicle have step bars? Notorious noise makers.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    How about this description, maybe this will help pinpoint......When the "clunk" happens, it is not just one "clunk" it sounds like something is slapping together with repedative "clunking". And it is really weird....if you hit a pothole or a speed bump....no noise. If you hit a row of ripples in the pavement resembling a washboard....better turn the radio up!!!! :confuse: There was a post somewhere about the hood hinges rattleing, not that either. I hope the new description will help steer you in the right direction. All the mechanics at GMC and misc. other places all are scratching their heads and WANT the work badly since there is a warranty on the vehicle, but we need to find the problem before we can send in warranty info. Someone needs to invent an allignment rack that you can attach tires to and it will shake them like a paint mixer.. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, just went back and read the whole thread again and never saw where you replaced the shocks? I understand if you checked the mounts, but did you check to see if the "bell" (which is the shield that covers the shaft of the shock) has come loose on the shock? Doesn't hurt anything, but noisy as heck. And will cause the sound you are describing, and can occur on old and new shocks both. I had a brand new Monroe Gas Magnum do this.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Other thing, and I just went through this with a warranty on my '02, if you have a warranty, then it is the responsibility of the warranty to pay the repair shop to find and fix the problem.

    Sad part about these things is that in my case, after charging off over $1300 to warranty, the problem was what I told them in the first place, a $200 repair that I just didn't want to mess with.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    I have checked the shocks, and the tightness of the bolts......not the shocks. O.K. now don't laugh at this, but the warranty is carried buy a company called Wynn's. I don't believe diagnostics is covered under warranty....they are all saying that we need to know what is broke.... so they can get an approval. I did do this......I compared my '94 control arm bushings to my '01 bushings....yes they are a different design, but the condition of the bushings on the '01 are horrible. I've been saying thats what it is the whole time, but no one wants to do it. Only because the control arm doesn't move when they pry it. Im gona push them to fix the contriol arm bushings, since I had this before and when changed the whole front end with the bushings......noise went away.....and all thats left on the '01 to be all new is the tie rod ends, and pitman arm. NO play in steering so its not the pitman arm, or tie rod ends. I changed the sway bar bushings yesterday, and I had to beat them off with a hammer.....the bolts were so coroded, the bushings and spacers were welded together!!!! Wish me luck with this warranty stuff.. ;)
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    well, I have a great story that happened to me with the warranty work......I took the Jimmy to a "Napa auto care" facility, which I thought were on the same level as the dealership. Well, this one I went to in Eden, N.C. takes the cake for scam artists!!!!!! After the Jimmy was approved for the warranty work on the upper control arm bushings, they started the work on 5/12/08. To make a long story short....they got the approval for (4) bushings 2 per side at $13.00 each bushing. The Napa bushings that they were supposed to be using(because they are a Napa auto care facility) were $23.00 each bushing. Advanced auto bushings were $9.00 each, and the Autozone bushings were $6.00 each. So I asked him what ones did he put in, and after stuttering for 5 minuits, he spit out.....uuuuh.....Autozone.
    I fell out!!!!!!!! Here the guy was surely aware that I only wanted top end parts on the car (I told him this 10 times) I told him I'd pay the difference, and he still went behind my back and installed the cheap [non-permissible content removed] crap parts just to make $30.00 off the parts. The first thing I did was report him to Napa auto care (the regional manager is going there today...5/14/08 to remove the Napa name. This guy was using the Napa name to draw customers in, then he puts the cheapest parts on the car he could find.....making people think hes using Napa parts!!!!!!! Holy cow right? :mad: :mad: :mad: And the regional manager is paying for the repairs on my vehicle out of his expense account for what happened(he doesnt weant me to go national with this probablly) BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!!! :surprise:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I have to ask, did it fix the problem???
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    well, havent picked up the car yet....today is 5/14/08. Ill let ya know this weekend....I'm dropping the car off to another facility which is doing the repairs over putting in the moog brand parts at no cost to me. :) can you believe that mess....Autozone junk!!!!! :lemon:
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    MAn bad news.....noise still there.....I think Im gona put this piece of junk up for sale.....Im not gona mess with this junk any more.....not 1 mechanic on this earth can figure out what it is.....and the noise is bad enough where Im not gona wait around to find out what is gona be a huge repair down the road.........something is slapping the frame or something solid as the frame or engine or tranny.....I though gmc's were good? But i guess I got the only :lemon:
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