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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

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  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    My mom has had an 87 and 2000 blazer

    I have driven both probably have drove the 87 more than the 2000.

    87 was a 2wd 2 door 2.7L factory ordered back in 1987. Truck was great first month there was a hose recall (we broke down and had to be towed) but never had a problem after that. It was only in for some minor rust fixing in the late 90's. Truck was solid and we sold it for $1500 early this past summer. I see this truck everyday at school and its still running with 120,000 some miles on it when we sold it.

    2000 is an LT 4wd 4 door with about 11K miles. Not a bad suv. It has its pros (4wd, more gadgets,4 doors easier entry exit, sunroof, leather better engine 4.3) and its cons (not as solid seems weaker, doubt it will last 13+ years like the 87 has) over the 87 blazer. The 2000 has been in the shop 3 times. Twice for alignment which was corrected after about the first 2 months and last month a front diff seal was leaking which is now fixed.

    I personally would take the strong feeling of the 87 and combine that with the 4wd, 4 dr, and gadgets of the 2000 and it would be a perfect truck.

    89N98 i know what you were going through with the snow. I live in indiana and we got a bunch supposed to get more tonight. I think my silverado handles alot better over the blazer in snow (weight wise more than likely)

    Ryan
  • What to buy and seeking advice by sasquatch_2000

    Looking at a Pewter 98 LS 4 Door with 40,000 miles on it. Dealer price $18,000. What is a good price to hit him with? What problems should I look for? Do I gain anything appreciable other than cosmetics by going to a '99? This one has the 5 spoke wheels with worn 235/70R15 tires. What are the biggest tires I can put on these? Can I get 245/75R15 or 255/75R15? How about 30X9.50 or 31X10.50 tires? Do I need a lift kit to mount these? Are lift kits available? I plan on doing some exploring this winter and summer, and want some good clearance. Also, anyone have experience with aftermarket header/exhaust/chip for power/mileage/reliability improvements? Thanks in advance.
  • Look at my post #20 for some things to look for. My opinion, $18,000 is a bit much... I paid $14,000 for a '98 Red LS 4door w/ 36K on it over a year ago. Got my '98 Bravada for $18,000 in May '99 w/ 40K on it. I do not know of any "cosmetic" changes from '98 to '99 other than a few added body colors, the side mirrors are hindged differently, and the daytime running lights shut off when the turnsignals are on.

    Good luck on the mod's, I have no idea. I'm just as happy when my two run :)
  • "When my two run"? That seems to be the sentiment about Chevys and sometimes JEEPs. I think I am starting to lean towards a Pathfinder, XTerra, or Trooper. Thanks for the words.
  • I have a 92 S10 Blazer (Tahoe) 4.3 liter engine that developed a bad oil leak. It's leaking from the "area" where the oil filter usually screws into the block next to the oil pan. I say usually because my oil filter is up near the radiator and is connected by two hoses to an "adapter" that is down below next to the oil pan. Does anyone know what this adapter is or how I can find out more info on this, such as how to replace or repair? thanks much,
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    You may also want to post your message above in the Chevy Blazer - Topic consolidation discussion topic and the Maintenance & Repair message board.

    Good luck!

    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • I am looking at buying a 2001 2door 4X4 Blazer and I can not find any crash test info on anything past 98. Would anyone know how they handle on the road? I am not concerned with a bumpy ride, but what I would like to find out is if it is tippy. The 97 and 98 reviews made reference to taking it easy in the turns but that was before the new body style came into effect. Any info would be helpful
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    I think they are better than the minivan I had. And no, the minivan did not have worn out shocks. And with the premium Bilstein shocks they do not have a bumpy ride. In fact, the body-on-frame construction actually is smoother riding than the unibody construction of a minivan. It isolates road texture and other small stuff better.

    Make no mistake, SUVs are not to be driven like sport cars, or sporty sedans for that matter.
  • My 98 Jimmy with 36k miles gives off a burning smell from underneath, in the rear end. Took it to the dealer and they said the rear brakes were seized. Replaced everything for $900. Said it was 3 months over warranty.I still have the smell, dealer can't find anything wrong. It's worse after I wash the truck or when the roads are wet.
    Any help?
    Thanks.
  • I have a 2000 Blazer and I'm trying to program my remotes, I just bought a third one. I found the steps below and they seem to work until I get to step #7. At this point none of the remotes respond. Am I missing something? Are there any web sites or newsgroups that might be able to help me with this?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    _____________________________________________

    (1) With driver door closed, hold down power unlock button on door panel (and hold down until step #6)
    (2) Turn ignition switch on
    (3) Turn ignition switch off
    (4) Turn ignition switch on
    (5) Turn ignition switch off
    (6) Release power door unlock on door panel; the remote receiver will respond by locking the doors and then unlocking them.
    (7) Hold down the lock and unlock button on the remote transmitter until the receiver responds by locking and then unlocking the doors (about 7 seconds typically).
    (8) Repeat step #7 for each additional transmitter that is to be used with the vehicle
    (9) Turn ignition switch on to exit transmitter programming mode. Note that previously programmed transmitters will be deactivated after the programming procedure.
  • I have a 2000 blazer it's a ls 2wd.We've only put 9000 miles on it.I have taken it to the dealer to many times for this every time they say it's a bad pcv valve.Plus my front end pops.I've owned chevys b4 and I've never had any problems.Last month I bought a 2001 Montero sport and I feel alot better.I will probably trade the blazer this year for a 4runner.
  • I have a 1995 Blazer LT. Loaded her up at the time. Most unreliable brakes I have ever experienced. Electrical system also bad. Have 50,000 miles on it...in mint condition and already ordered another SUV. I would never normally purchase another car within 5 years, especially with this low mileage and MINT condition. BUT...It's garbage. Braking is completely unreliable and has had two recalls. If you hit just a slight dip...pebble...bump while applying brakes...you hear the anti-lock kick in...and GLIDE...baby...GLIDE. Pedal hits the floor...and no more brakes. It turns the casual stop into an adrenaline rush. The minute the tires sense a little different road surface...look out!. Still happens after two recalls. OPERATE AS DESIGNED is all they keep saying. Designed to hit another car...maybe. It's stupid and Chevy knows it! I no longer trust American made cars.

    In addition...have you seen the crash tests? Pleeze! Put some pressure on Chevy to redesign this 'death trap' body style. Chevy has lost its edge in the SUV market...big time! Too bad too. Don't buy one... Admittedly they've got some neat bells and whistles...but it's only mirage.
  • I have a 93 S-10 4WD Blazer. Purchased used at 75K. Within 3 months the intake manifold gasket had to be replaced and it has been a downhill slide ever since. Alternator, distributor, ignition control module, ignition coil, MAP sensor, EGR valve, etc. In January of this year, with snow on the ground, I discovered that it would not go into 4WD. Dealership said the 4WD control module was bad & it would cost $400+ to fix. I said I could live without it. Recently it began once again (a recurring problem) not wanting to start, or dying while driving or at idle (trust me, it wasn't picky).Took it to dealership again. Came back to find that they had charged me $102 to change the fuel filter and run cleaner thru the fuel injectors, said if that didnt fix it, it might be the starter & that would be $260+. It died in the parking lot at work that evening. Fed up with the dealership, took to another mechanic. Replaced starter. Truck would start, but again, die while driving or at idle. In tracking the wiring, he discovered that a sensor wire had been pinched in a bolt on the intake manifold and had worn and was shorting. Didn't fix the running problem, but fixed the 4WD! Not finding anything obviously wrong, he has now removed the security system, replaced the ignition control module and pick-up line (which wasn't replaced when the dealership replaced the ign control module) and thinks that may fix it. Any ideas? Any recourse as all these things seem somewhat related and the dealership has screwed up more than they have fixed. Similar problems? If I ever get it running I might drive it off a cliff. If not, I'll just push it!
  • mom25mom25 Posts: 1
    I need to trade in my 1993 Explorer. Only 60,000 miles but many problems. I've been the only owner for 8 years. Just looked at a 1998 Jimmy SLT with 37,800 miles. Seems nice and clean. Dealer wants $16,500. Is this a good buy? Anything special I need to know about this car? Thanks! I need a very reliable vehicle.
  • I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy 4wd SLE with 183k miles. It has been in the shop 4 times in the last 2 weeks for the same problem. The SES light comes on and the idle becomes very rough. When this happens you lose the power brakes. Each time there has been carbon build up in the EGR valve. My current mechanic, whom I have been using for 11 years, told me there was carbon build up, they cleaned it and the truck ran fine for about 100 miles and started again. Took the truck back and they cleaned it again. We left for vacation the next day it happened again. I called my mechanic and he said to take it to a GMC dealership, and he would reimburse me for all costs. The dealership replaced the EGR valve and the computer. Drove the truck for about 150 miles and it happened again, took it back to the dealership and they cleaned the EGR valve. On they way home, we made it about 700 miles and it started happening again. The truck is now sitting on the carport waiting for AAA to take to the local dealership to have the warranty work done. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this continues to happen? By the way, the did clean the fuel injectors twice in the last 2 weeks. I really love my truck, but can't continue to have to take it to the shop every 100 or so miles. I would purchase another GMC truck in a heart beat since this is the only real problem I have had with the truck.
  • ang7ang7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jimmy that hasn't had any problems. But, it sometimes makes a banging noise that sounds like it is coming from the transmission. It shifts very smoothly when accelerating, but if I let off the gas while building rpm it will bang. For example, if I'm accelerating in 2nd or 3rd gear and the person in front of me puts the brakes on I'll let up on the gas to apply the brakes and it will bang. The service tech. at the dealership said he didn't know what it was but it could be the torque converter. Could that be the answer?
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Posts: 6
    I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: gmcoilline@hotmail.com I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.

    Thanks,
    Brandon Morgan
  • After 25 yrs. of Japanese vehicles, my husband convinced me to "Buy American." So bought a brand new fully loaded 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT. It worked pretty well for about 25,000 miles. Service engine soon light would come on periodically. The manual referenced "emissions", so basically ignored it as it would usually go off in a day or two. Well, put $2000 transmission in at 45,000 miles. New thermostat and fan belt around 50,000 miles. The fuel pump ($650) went out at 51,000 miles in rush hour traffic on a busy interstate. That was real fun!!! Recently had the windshield washer problem someone else mentioned. New wiper motor, but also found rear differential leaking so that was corrected at the same time. Recently moved from Washington to Montana in winter snowstorm over three mountain passes. The four-wheel drive worked over the first pass. Took it into the dealer in MT and they said it needs a new "encoder" - $345 just for the part.

    Can someone tell me if there is any hope of a recall on the encoder problem? Another message referenced other people having problems with the 4WD.

    I can't get rid of this vehicle soon enough. Buy American again? Maybe, but not Chevy or GMC.
  • kiki4512kiki4512 Posts: 1
    My husband was recently in a rollover accident in a 96 Chevy Blazer The police report states that he went end over end 1 1/2 times and then continued to roll 6 more times before coming to a rest. It is a wonder to me how he lived! He walked away from the accident with only a scrape on his head. I am grateful that we choose the Blazer and am Now looking at the newer Blazer.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,940
    Wow, scary. Glad he's ok. I assume he was wearing his seat belt? What happened anyway (or does he remember)?

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
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