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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

12021232526

Comments

  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    I cant thank you enough for helping with this!!!!! The "clunk" sounds EXACTLY like a worn out shock bushing. Steering is very tight....no play. Also no pulling when the clunk occurs. My spare jimmy is a '94 model but it is 2wd. It had the same noise resembling a ball joint/ shock bushing......so I changed EVERY part on the front end including control arm bushings. The noise stopped. Im wondering since I put new ball joints on.....and a new idler arm and new shocks, if I shouldn't just do the pitman arm,, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings and see if that does it, but thats a job!!!!!! Im wondering if it isnt something to do with the 4wd system on this '01? Everything is working(4wd) doesnt clank or bang when you put it in 4wd and turn tires full left or full right and go in a circle.....no jumping or popping.......also sway bar bushings look GREAT, but should I change them to be sure? :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, generally a tie rod end that is loose enough to be heard will really affect the steering. There are a couple of bushings in the center link that could do this, but here again, when that loose you can get a lot of play in the steering.

    On the full size trucks, there has been a problem with the intermediate shaft in the steering column. The S series has a different design, but they can get noisy. Try grabbing the the steering shaft in the area of the center spark plug and give it a good yank back and forth and see if you hear the noise. You mentioned that the noise seems to be from the floorboards, and this is usually felt in the steering wheel, but don't want to overlook anything.

    Next, I would put the vehicle up on ramps, or with safe support under the front wheels and get underneath with a rubber mallet and start whacking. Sometimes a noise/looseness will disappear if the wheels are suspended, such as using jack stands on the frame.

    Okay, and this is a stretch, check the frame to body mounts. If the rubber of the mount is loose, or the bolt has backed out just a bit, loud clunk occurs.

    Does this vehicle have step bars? Notorious noise makers.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    How about this description, maybe this will help pinpoint......When the "clunk" happens, it is not just one "clunk" it sounds like something is slapping together with repedative "clunking". And it is really weird....if you hit a pothole or a speed bump....no noise. If you hit a row of ripples in the pavement resembling a washboard....better turn the radio up!!!! :confuse: There was a post somewhere about the hood hinges rattleing, not that either. I hope the new description will help steer you in the right direction. All the mechanics at GMC and misc. other places all are scratching their heads and WANT the work badly since there is a warranty on the vehicle, but we need to find the problem before we can send in warranty info. Someone needs to invent an allignment rack that you can attach tires to and it will shake them like a paint mixer.. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Okay, just went back and read the whole thread again and never saw where you replaced the shocks? I understand if you checked the mounts, but did you check to see if the "bell" (which is the shield that covers the shaft of the shock) has come loose on the shock? Doesn't hurt anything, but noisy as heck. And will cause the sound you are describing, and can occur on old and new shocks both. I had a brand new Monroe Gas Magnum do this.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Other thing, and I just went through this with a warranty on my '02, if you have a warranty, then it is the responsibility of the warranty to pay the repair shop to find and fix the problem.

    Sad part about these things is that in my case, after charging off over $1300 to warranty, the problem was what I told them in the first place, a $200 repair that I just didn't want to mess with.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    I have checked the shocks, and the tightness of the bolts......not the shocks. O.K. now don't laugh at this, but the warranty is carried buy a company called Wynn's. I don't believe diagnostics is covered under warranty....they are all saying that we need to know what is broke.... so they can get an approval. I did do this......I compared my '94 control arm bushings to my '01 bushings....yes they are a different design, but the condition of the bushings on the '01 are horrible. I've been saying thats what it is the whole time, but no one wants to do it. Only because the control arm doesn't move when they pry it. Im gona push them to fix the contriol arm bushings, since I had this before and when changed the whole front end with the bushings......noise went away.....and all thats left on the '01 to be all new is the tie rod ends, and pitman arm. NO play in steering so its not the pitman arm, or tie rod ends. I changed the sway bar bushings yesterday, and I had to beat them off with a hammer.....the bolts were so coroded, the bushings and spacers were welded together!!!! Wish me luck with this warranty stuff.. ;)
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    well, I have a great story that happened to me with the warranty work......I took the Jimmy to a "Napa auto care" facility, which I thought were on the same level as the dealership. Well, this one I went to in Eden, N.C. takes the cake for scam artists!!!!!! After the Jimmy was approved for the warranty work on the upper control arm bushings, they started the work on 5/12/08. To make a long story short....they got the approval for (4) bushings 2 per side at $13.00 each bushing. The Napa bushings that they were supposed to be using(because they are a Napa auto care facility) were $23.00 each bushing. Advanced auto bushings were $9.00 each, and the Autozone bushings were $6.00 each. So I asked him what ones did he put in, and after stuttering for 5 minuits, he spit out.....uuuuh.....Autozone.
    I fell out!!!!!!!! Here the guy was surely aware that I only wanted top end parts on the car (I told him this 10 times) I told him I'd pay the difference, and he still went behind my back and installed the cheap [non-permissible content removed] crap parts just to make $30.00 off the parts. The first thing I did was report him to Napa auto care (the regional manager is going there today...5/14/08 to remove the Napa name. This guy was using the Napa name to draw customers in, then he puts the cheapest parts on the car he could find.....making people think hes using Napa parts!!!!!!! Holy cow right? :mad: :mad: :mad: And the regional manager is paying for the repairs on my vehicle out of his expense account for what happened(he doesnt weant me to go national with this probablly) BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!!! :surprise:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I have to ask, did it fix the problem???
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    well, havent picked up the car yet....today is 5/14/08. Ill let ya know this weekend....I'm dropping the car off to another facility which is doing the repairs over putting in the moog brand parts at no cost to me. :) can you believe that mess....Autozone junk!!!!! :lemon:
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    MAn bad news.....noise still there.....I think Im gona put this piece of junk up for sale.....Im not gona mess with this junk any more.....not 1 mechanic on this earth can figure out what it is.....and the noise is bad enough where Im not gona wait around to find out what is gona be a huge repair down the road.........something is slapping the frame or something solid as the frame or engine or tranny.....I though gmc's were good? But i guess I got the only :lemon:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, I wish I could hear the noise and give you a hand. These little beasts are just not that complicated, so I cannot imagine why the mechanics cannot locate the noise.

    Don't let this issue sour you on the S series vehicles. I have had five and all have been very dependable vehicles. I have to believe that these guys are missing something obvious like a motor or tranny mount loose, spring pad missing, something like that. There just aren't that many things under there to go clunk.

    Jim
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    I looked at more forms, and some were saying the shock mount can wear out and cause looseness.....I'd think it would be an obvious thing we can see.....I can grab the driver side shock and twist it, which it makes a slight clunking(same noise)......is this something that can be replaced? Or will I have to have new mounts welded on? This is happening on both sides.....all the mechanics were all over the front shocks....no one thought the play was a concern.....should there be ANY play there? I wouldnt think so........
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    Well, let me remove the last post......the towers werent wallowed out, but they were kinda pushed apart, which just took a little grunting and I pulled it together. However what I didnt notice until then was the rocket science mechanic had put in the lower ball joint bolts upside-down, causing the bolt to dig into the boot that holds the greese- :surprise: he wins the ASE mechanic of the week award!!!!! Is it just North Carolina or does this happen elsewhere......now I've been scammed by the Napa auto care guy with the Autozone parts that were supposed to be Napa parts, and now the ASE mechanic of the week mishap> My poor car :sick:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Have you considered a GM service department???

    (ducking and running for cover :surprise: )
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    ROFL!!!!!!! :D ...Well, after this mess gets taken care of(the napa control arm bushings put back in), yes I agree a dealer is gona be the safest bet. Where I moved from my local mechanic had a jimmy also for a personal vehicle, so he was all up on these things. That is a 5hr drive one way or I'd be going to him. Looks like i have some dealer shopping to do, but I'll surely let ya know progress on the noise for you and other people reading this whole post ;)
  • darren04darren04 Posts: 3
    Hey everyone,

    Im stumped...1995 GMC Jimmy, The ECM fuse (fuse #10) keeps blowing in my truck, which causes the truck to stall out until fuse is replaced. I've looked for loose wires, shorts everything and I cant figure out why it keeps blowing! Anyone have any help? What should I check since its just the ECM fuse blowing?

    Thanks,

    Darren
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    Well, first when diagnosing a problem.....what does the ECM fuse directly supply power to? A fuse is a load limiting device like a breaker in your house electrical pannel. Fuses are only to limit loads.....so the device(devices) on that fuse are malfunctioning, causing a higher load on that circuit. I looked up what fuse #10 does....if it is correct, #10 does pcm module, and ignition module, also, all the fuel injectors. Knowing these vehicles, and yours is a '95 model......I'd first start with having a fuel pressure gauge put on the fuel line check valve located behind the plenum(i thnik its spelled like that). If you havent changed the spyder assembly yet from the lines dry-rotting from heat under the plenum, then this may be causing the fuel pump to overwork trying to keep fuel pressure up in the 52 psi range. When you hook the fuel pressure gauge up to the check valve, start the engine to get pressure(over 50psi)....then shut engine off leaving the gauge on the vehicle.....it should stay the same....NO DROP AT ALL!!!!!!! If it moves....there ya go. New spyder assembly for you and its really expensive so I hope for you its not. And if that check comes back O.K.....then change the fuel filter to make sure its not clogged(good to change anyway with all this junk gas).....if those two things dont help....let us know. ;)
  • darren04darren04 Posts: 3
    Hey thanks for the speedy reply, so heres the scoop. Fuel pump, filter and the CPI unit (the spyder thing) have been replaced. The truck was just in the shop and they said the fuel pressure was good. They sugested a loose wire or short somewhere but yet couldnt find anything. I drove the truck today and so far no blown fuse, but then again it did that yestureday, drove fine then bam fuse gone. Could it be something that simple as a lose wire or bad connection? And if so where would I start to find this and why is it only fuse 10?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    could be an intermittent problem in the ECM itself. The electrical system in the vehicle supplies power through the ECM fuse, but there are further electrical filtering circuits in the ECM itself that could be failing. Very tough to diagnose intermittent problems like these. Try to be observant to any other behavior of the vehicle when the failure occurs. A big part of troubleshooting is observation and logic.
  • gmck9gmck9 Posts: 17
    The other guy couldn't have said it any better.....since you said you drove it all day and no fuse blown yet, try to make it blow......do everything possible, but like the other guy said PAY ATTENTION to what your doing so you know what blows the fuse. It is tough since fuse#10 supplies power to more than one specific location.
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