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BMW 5-Series Starting Problems

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Comments

  • james27james27 Posts: 433
    You've probably resolved this by now, but at least with the newer model years, if you replace the battery and don't inform the computer, it tailors the charging logic as if it had an old battery, and it may not provide a new battery's full capabilities. It also makes a big difference in the charging routine about the specific AHr rating of the battery you install - the car needs to know.

    The starter motor is not designed to run continuously, and I'm surprised it lasted 20-minutes before burning out! The manual on many cars talk about if it doesn't start in say 30-seconds, wait quite awhile before trying again to allow it to cool off. The starter motor continuing to run could be a bunch of things from a bad ignition switch to a sticky solenoid valve or a short. The mechanics of replacing it shouldn't be beyond a good mechanic, but most won't have the ability to reprogram the vehicle to a new battery. Batteries do not like to be deep discharged in general...unless designed for it, each deep discharge decreases the overall life, maybe to zero, if the current load is high enough andoverloads things warps things.
  • onetufvwonetufvw Posts: 2
    My car stop cranking on me. It was dragging the day before it stop cranking. Took battery to auto parts store and they tested the battery and it passed. I change the
    IBS Inelegant Battery Sensor and still nothing, i took off the starter and had it tested and it tested good. Called dealership and found out my car does not have INTEGRATED SUPPLY MODULE:121099 (12-52-7-510-638). I ask parts person can he tell me the part that replaced this on my car and he said he did not no. If anyone can help please let me know.

    When you turn the key everything lights up properly but no crank! Any ideas or help would be welcome. Dealership wants 89.00 for first hour then the price goes up from there.
  • 913kdub913kdub Posts: 3
    This sounds like the same problem I had and I replaced the starter and it has been working fine.
  • onetufvwonetufvw Posts: 2
    Took starter off car and had it tested at parts store and it passed twice...Any other ideas would be welcome.
  • abcd007abcd007 Posts: 3
    edited August 2013
    Hi - dealer maintained 2007 525i with 114K miles, got weird symptoms that was actually due to a worn oil cap. Story: the tensioner bolt (aluminum) head sheared off (!) and I replaced the belt and pulleys. But when I restarted I got wild rpms (goes to 2k, then 800, then 1500, then 1200 in 30 secs) before smoothing to idle. Check engine lights codes came on for P1415, P0102, misfires on cyl 1 and 4. Top mechanic Andrew and owner David Toy at Autowerke Autoy in Rockville, MD says after 2 hours of looking at the computer read-outs that he was 95% sure it was the ignition coils and probably plugs on both cyl 1 and 4. Recommended work was about $600, said he had to take off the filters and housing to get to the coils to switch them around to confirm his dfiagnosis and its not an easy do it yourself. I was surprised that just coincidentally 2 coils would go bad at the same time and this occurred right after changing a belt as the car ran fine before. I paid them for the diagnosis ($117) but just coincidentally on my way back, a young gas station attendant noticed oil cap was loose, and indeed when he pressed on it, the car started normally. Stopping by a dealer, the cap was replaced and all the problems went away. Autowerke / David Toy said the oil cap must have came loose in the few miles I drove it as they saw it and did tighten it, so they refuse to refund the diagnosis fee. The dealer however says the cap is worn and leaky even if it was tighten down. The dealer SA also says once the plastic cover is popped off the coils are plug and play, flip a lever, pull out the contact and pull out the coil, so easy a monkey can do it. My question: is this tricky stuff or is the shop incompetent or trying to rip me off?
  • kdub6kdub6 Posts: 1
    edited November 2013
    i have a 97 328i.. i just bought this car and had to do some work on it. i just got where i can start it.. i had it started but it died. when i went to try to crank it back over it would not turn over. the starter will not evan make a clicking noise but i got humming noise what seems like coming from my intake where my fuel cables are. the humming is thr at all time. does anybody have any idea what it could be
  • I have the same problem with my 525i 2006. It cranked a few times then after that completely stopped cranking and just makes a humming noise when i try to start it. If you find out what the problem is please let me know ASAP!
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