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GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali



  • jrsctsvjrsctsv Posts: 2
    My 2002 Denali XL's transmission cooler failed mixing transmission fluid and coolant in the radiator. Result very quickly is slipping transmission. Car has 74000 miles, all normal family driving, never towed anything or did any off roading. The cost of the repair was over $3000; extended warranty paid $2000. I looked on the internet and quickly found this to be a common problem. Apparently the trans cooler is inside the radiator and therefore you can't detect the failure until you have a problem. One sign is coolant and trans fluid mixed in the overflow tank for the radiator, but by then your transmission will be ruined.
    I called GM to see if they would help cover the cost of my portion of the repair. They ultimately came back and said no since I take the car to an independent repair shop, even though they referred this issue to a GM dealer.
    I have been a loyal GM buyer, now am very disappointed. A part that is designed to extend the life of the transmission fails and causes early problems. Seems like they should own up to this. This is my last GM vehicle. If you are driving this car, watch out for this problem.
  • alexp98alexp98 Posts: 4
    I bought a brand new '05 Yukon Denali XL and haven't had any major problems. Lately, though, I've noticed when I park my vehicle outside for several hours or more that I hear a grinding or a metal on metal sound whenever I step on the brakes. It goes away after driving for a couple of minutes. I've taken it to the dealer and they've told me that it's condensation from the hot brakes and cold air that causes that noise. At first, I accepted that reasoning, but then why has it only started recently. If it were true, then I would have heard it since the beginning. My SUV is normally garaged so I don't hear any grinding whenever I pull out and step on the brakes. It's just whenever it's parked outside on a cold night. I'm afraid it could become worse.
    I've driven 36K miles on it mostly highway so the brake pads are still fairly thick. I think there's 5mm on the most worn out of pads and 8mm on the other axle.
    Anybody else have this problem?
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    Have you checked to see if a coating of rust develops during the night?
  • alexp98alexp98 Posts: 4
    Yes, there isn't any rust. That is the same thing the service rep asked me.
    A good example was about 2 weeks ago. I parked my SUV outside from 2PM until 11PM. I don't think there would have been enough time for rust to form or is that enough time for some sort of film to coat the rotors?
  • I have taken delivery of an 07 Denali with NAV and no camera (I couldn't wait). Does anyone know if the wiring harness is in the liftgate so that I can simply connect the camera when it becomes available??
  • ddegrawddegraw Posts: 3
    Thanks, Dave. Will take it in and have them fix it!
  • hitenhiten Posts: 12
    Does anyone know if 04 Denali is equipped with a fuel filter? I went to a GM dealer this morning and they called me back saying that 04 denali's are not equipped with a fuel filter.

    just curious if anyone came across this?
  • bpotts1bpotts1 Posts: 3
    I am having the same exact problem and the mechanic I took my car to said that he has seen this exact thing (3) times in the past couple weeks but cannot fix it. I replaced by belt and tensioner but this did not work. The sound actually got worse. I am taking the car to a dealer today and we'll see what happens. This should be a recall issue if it is that common. Let me know if you find anything out. (I have an 03 Yukon 5.3L)
  • steins4steins4 Posts: 1
    I had the same trouble with my 03. I had to replace the A/C compressor. The GMC dealer paid for it because I had just purchased the vehicle 3 months ago (it would have cost around $500).

    I hope your trouble is not as severe.
  • ssbmgssbmg Posts: 7
    I also had my AC belt break off. I had to replace the AC compressor and condenser. I found the compressor refurbished online for a couple hundred bucks and with the condenser and a couple other minor parts had the entire AC system replaced for less than 500 total. Make sure that you flush out the AC lines before installing a new compressor. When my original compressor went dead, it sent metal particles throughout my AC lines and if I didn't (luckily) have it flushed prior to running the new system, it would've seized up and had to be replaced again!
  • bpotts1bpotts1 Posts: 3
    I took my car to the GMC dealer and it looks like I will have to replace my compressor as well. I hear that this is a common problem. Does anyone know if this is a potential recall item or has anyone else been able to get GMC to cover this? My car is an '03 with 88,000 mi and I dont have an extended warranty. They are qutoing me between $600-$1000 to fix.
  • gotbassgotbass Posts: 1
    ok so i have a 2003 GMC Yukon 4X4 with a 5.3L V8. i just installed a K&N FIPK. got some great horspower out of it but, i noticed that the engine is idleing lower, at about 500 RPMs as opposed to its usual 1000 RPMs. can some one please tell me how to correct this problem.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Have you tried removing the K&N FIPK? Just to see if that's the cause of the problem?
  • I have the same problem ('02 Denali XL). My general mechanic says AC compressor is OK, but possible AC system needs service or repair - look for an AC repair shop. I don't like the GMC Dealer because they will want to replace parts A-Z just to make sure. I replaced belt, tensioner - this fixed it for a few days, but now back to knocking. Last night it ejected all the refrigerant, as if system is clogged. A friend tells me to simply do maintenace on it, replace orifice, flush system, vacuum and refill. What was done to your vehicle to fix this?? Maintenance or Repair?
  • I had the dealership replace the AC compressor and it worked. The idiots put too much freon in at first so it still knocked but I took it back, they let some out, and it worked. Cost $850.
  • My Yukon won't start. The starter goes "Clank" like the gears are engaging the flywheel, but there is no cranking. The battery is less than a month old (just had it checked tonight) and the starter is new (bought tonight, even though the one I took off this afternoon tested good at Autozone) the alternator is only a month old. I turned the engine with a socket from the pulley and it spun easily. Last month my wife finifshed a 600 mile trip and the Yukon wouldn't start after she parked (dead battery). So I changed the alternator and battery, then, and it ran like a champ. But yesterday it wouldn't turn over. The last time this happened two years ago I changed the starter, battery and alternator. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • I made a copy of version 4.1 and it works better than the original. You must have DVD burner that will do a dual layer burn and use dual layer disks. The file is so large that only a dual layer has the capacity. I have a phillips DVD burner and used Sonic software. Selected "Dulicate Original" and 35 minutes later I had a copy. THe original would occasionally fail to load. The copy works every time.
  • Thank you for bringing this up. We've been trying to make a copy of our 2005 Denali v3.1 disc and have gone through at least a dozem coasters :)

    Can you tell me where you obtained the "Sonic software" to burn the DVD with?

    Also, did you have to use "Booktype" to simulate a ROM burn on the dual layer DVD?

    Did you burn at the lowest speed possible?

    And, what media did you use?

    Was it DVD+ or DVD-?

    Once again, thank you very much for the info!

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Did you try playing with the gear selector handle. Sometimes the vehicle won't start if it isn't locked in park or neutral.

    Sounds to me like a bad alternator thats under charging the battery or a bad voltage regulator.
  • Sonic Record Now came on my Dell system. In this case it was version 7.1. It did not give me any choices other than "Make an exact copy of a disk"
    No speed or other choices.
    I used a Verbatim DVD+ R DL
    I made a second one just for fun and it worked fine as far as I could tell.
    Just dumb luck I guess.
    I did this in the first place because my factory disk would fail to load about one out of ten times. At this point the copy has been flawless for about 30 starts.
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