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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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Comments

  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,663
    I hadn't thought of that...

    Bob
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Or maybe they measure the height at the lowest point on the roofline? The new Forester does slope back more than the current model.

    I checked my literature and there's nothing mentioned about the Forester being less tall.

    Ken
  • nellonello Posts: 11
    Has any one had rear alignment problems on a new 2002 Forester L? I went in for the first oil change and they wanted to do an alignment on the rear saying it showed a little tire wear. Does that sound right on a car that has 3500 miles on it? It does not ride like a car with alignment issues. Any feed back would be helpful.
    Thanks,
    Nello
  • vonnyvoncevonnyvonce Posts: 128
    I've had the same problem and a friend who passed the idea of buying a Subaru by his local mechanic was told oil leaks are notorious. Any real truth to this??
  • asplundhasplundh Posts: 27
    I too have had ongoing problems with this. I just had an alignment done by the dealer and will see if this fixes the problem or not. My tires at 7500 miles were very worn on the sides. I sometimes wonder if the steering column could be bent.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think US measures include the cross bars. The Forester was just 0.9" shorter than the CR-V per the spec sheet, because the CR-V did not come with a roof rack standard. It's actually much taller.

    Nello: alignment is tricky to get right with AWD, so let them take a stab at it.

    Are oil leaks common? No. We hear about a few because people often come here for advice. But if everyone had oil leaks then reliability data would show that. Having leaks on both your Subies is pretty bad luck, though.

    -juice
  • nypaulnypaul Posts: 35
    Yesterday I washed our 3 week old Forester for the first time. While I was drying the water droplets off the hood I noticed what I think is a production defect. There is a circular mark in the paint around each of the windshield washer nozzles. You can't feel it but it is visible when the car is clean.
    Since I think it's a production problem, I wonder how many of you folks might have the same. Next time you go out to your Forester look closely around the nozzles and please report back what you find.

    Paul
    02 Forester L
    71 VW bus
  • carguy62carguy62 Posts: 545
    That reminds me and I know this should be in the comparo thread but Honda recessed the washer nozzles under the hood in the new CR-V. Very clever, IMHO.
  • jim1969jim1969 Posts: 62
    Are there any Xenon bulbs which can replace the OEM H4 bulbs? Is it worth it to get them?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    XT6 had em in '88 also had single wiper. It's funny all the R!cers ask me how i get the single wiper to go under the hood, cause they can't get em to go under the hood on their Civics! I tell em it's factory.

    -mike
  • Paul,
    What you have noticed is residue from the protective covers that were placed over the nozzles. The dealer usually peels off the covers prior to display or sale. Take a little spray of WD-40 on a rag these will disappear. I even found some other areas on the car where this had occured (near the roof rack) and thought as you did that I had a scratched or damaged vehicle.

    -Donn
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,663
    my understanding (and I heard this from Drew not too long ago), is that Xenon bulbs are not as good a a "true" Xenon light "system." In other words the complete headlight system is engineered around Xexon lights from the get-go, not as an afterthought. Don't ask me why, because I don't know, but he seemed fairly certain of that. The bulbs (only) may just offer a more bluish cast, and yet not offer much brighter lighting, as a "total Xenon system." Again, I'm just not sure...

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just have a blue coating, providing less light on the road. HID-with balast is a good improvement over stock lights but also costs about $400+ I'd stick with higher wattage halogen bulbs from philips or hella for better lighting using stock housings.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I tried these, which are supposed to have a trace amount of Xenon gas in the bulb to burn a little brigther. Some have a blue coating, some don't (mine didn't). They will not match true HID conversions, nor will they match higher wattage bulbs (stock is 55/60, some go 80/100 or higher).

    I was happy - until they both burned out in less than a year. $28 for the pair, and then you gotta keep changing them all the time, for a little extra light? Didn't seem worth it to me.

    If you get them, just get a spare or two, and carry them with you.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Any direct replacement "Xenon" bulb is never going to be close to real HID. Many of these bulbs are purely cosmetic -- it's a halogen bulb with some blue paint to make the light appear whiter.

    However, there are halgoen bulbs that are brighter than typical ones. They're not painted blue either. Juice mentioned Hella. I use Philps Vision Plus.

    I think the Hellas were not constructed very well since my friend's also went out after a year. I've been using my Philips for two years now and they've been great.

    Ken
  • jim1969jim1969 Posts: 62
    Which auto chain carries the Philips Vision Plus bulbs you mentioned? Is there a big improvement with them over the stock H4 bulbs? I appreciate the imput.
  • nypaulnypaul Posts: 35
    Donn,
    Thanks for the tip. The WD40 took those marks off just like you said it would.

    Paul
  • jim1969jim1969 Posts: 62
    I've tracked down these bulbs to a few different online sites. Every time I chose USA this bulb is not an option. Is it legal in the US? Has it passed DOT approval?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Jim,

    I purchased them from autolamps-online or something to that extent. These aren't sold in the US so you need to buy them through European suppliers.

    The improvement over stock was very noticeable. I have comparison pictures somewhere. I can email them to you or, if I can get around to it, I can post them somewhere. The Philips bulb was designed for e-code headlights and require a sharp beam cutoff to achieve the best results. Luckily the Forester has a very sharp beam pattern for DOT headlights so they work well together.

    To be super-technical, I don't think these have been DOT approved. They are of stock wattage and are the standard bulb size (H4) so they pose no problem from a compatibility issue.

    Ken
  • jim1969jim1969 Posts: 62
    Thanks for the info kens. That was the same website I tracked them down to. I'll be ordering a set soon. I'll keep an eye out for any postings you put out on them.
  • thecatthecat Posts: 528
    Thanks to KenS pointing the way, I bought those bulbs from autolamps-online over a year ago. They're great lights and make a noticeable difference. I would love to put them in the WRX but I don't think it takes the same bulbs.
    - Hutch
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    No problem, guys. The Vision Plus only comes in H1 or H4 so it limits the application range.

    Ever since Photopoint went down, it's been a hassle posting pics.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Nice call, Donn!

    So, both Ken and Hutch have had long-lasting results with those bulbs? Mabye those are worth considering, then. I gave up on the one-year-of-life Hellas.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    Yeah, you and another friend of mine both had their Hellas go out after a year. I switched over to the Philips after a few months (okay, I was a into lighting at the time) so I don't have the same experience. I do recall Susquehana Motor Sports mentioning that they removed one line of Hella bulbs because the quality had gone down. They weren't the H4+30, but who knows, maybe it affected more than just one model.

    Ken
  • mst3kguymst3kguy Posts: 10
    hiya people,

    although experienced with audio in general, i'm rather new to car audio. i've just acquired boston acoustics rx47 coaxials for the rear doors of my '02s+, installation was a breeze. however, the tweeter unit is not clearing the factory grille, which appears to curve inward ever so slightly. the grille is now pressing on the tweeter unit (not the dome, but rather a fixed unit, thankfully!) and the grille is bulging out on one side.

    what are my options here? the boston grilles aren't large enough to cover the area that the factory grilles covered.

    anyone?

    tia,

    dean naramore
    cincinnati, ohio
    '02s+
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    I replaced the OEM speakers (all except the tweeters )on my '00 S with premium sound package with Polk Audios from Crutchfield. IIRC the model numbers were EX602a for the fronts and EX502a for the rears. (Ken S can confirm but I think he got Sony Xplods for the rears - Ken?). In any case I didn't encounter any clearance issues.

    You could always try gently heating the factory grilles and curving them outward to accommodate the tweeters. I'd use hot water or maybe a blow dryer. I'd think about picking up a spare pair of factory grilles just in case. In the alternative, you could cut out the insides of the factory grilles and insert your own mesh, available from most any stereo store. Do the same for the fronts and get a custom look all around.

    Good luck,
    Ed

    PS: BTW, why am I not surprised that a guy with the screen name mst3kguy would buy a For(r)ester? ;-)
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Actually, it was the other way around -- I have Sony Xplods in the front and the Polks in the rear. No problems with fitment because they were listed as the EZ fit on Crutchfield.

    I don't remember exactly, but weren't the speakers mounted on a plastic tray? Perhaps you may be able to mount the speakers without the tray to get around the clearance issue. I'd try and play around with that before messing with the cover since you'll always see the cover.

    Ken
  • Hi Forester owners!!
    Am new to this list, but have been reading over these many posts for the last hour.
    I have owned 2 Foresters, the first being a 99S, which was a nice ride. We chose to trade this one in for the 2000 S, mainly for the limited slip rear end. We do alot of winter travel in the snow, in hilly conditions, and after owning other SUV's with LSD, this was a concern.
    I've upgraded the wheels to 17", which have the 225x55x17 tires............this baby corners considerably better than before!
    Also tossed their 'upgraded' stereo with a real one........Kenwood deck, with 12 stack CD player, Rockford Amps and top of the line speaker replacements...........total of 800 watts of sheer pleasure, while waiting in traffic!!.....my waiting is no big deal any longer.....
    My only complaint,and to me its major enough to sell and trade this car for a Toyota 4Runner Limited, if I can't get it fixed, once and for all.
    It's the squeeky real hatch...everytime we take it on somewhat rough roads, and 'flex' the body just a little bit, such as you would going over bumps and turning at the same time, this has produced a permanent squeek, which is totally irritating....have taken it to the dealers several times,and they have 'adjusted' the hatch, but this is a temporary fix at best.
    Have also greased all the fittings, and the ends of the rubber stops, this has helped, but the damn squeek is still there!!!........gggeeezzz, it's irritating!!.......and we can't run around with the stereo blasting all the time, to drown out that squeek...........anybody else have this problem??......I told my neighbor about this, she recently bought an 02 S model, and it wasn't until I asked her about a squeeek, that she realized she DID have one!!!
    About the headlight bulb replacement, I've always used the PIAA H-4 replacement bulbs, ultra white, in 80-115 watt.......these are bright!!!, and you will need to readjust your headlamps a tad downwards to utilize the increased brightness, and to avoid getting high beamed by oncoming traffic....
    Any help with the squeek would be greatly appreciated.........hope it's before I trade the SUBE in for a 4Runner.........!
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    secretasianman: I've tried that, but got tire rubbing when turning the front wheels to full lock. Found out it was an offset issue. (I also have a 2000 S.) The wheels I used had a +52mm offset when Forester OEM use +48. I'm selling the +52s and looking for a suitable +48. What are you using for wheels and tires? And how are 17"s on "rough roads"? My thought in going the 17" route was to get better pavement handling but I may end up just getting a 16" tire in the OEM size with a stiffer sidewall.

    As for the squeaks in the hatch, there are two little spring-loaded bumpers on either side of the hatch opening. Try cleaning them out by spraying with WD-40 followed by some compressed air. Grit tends to get in them, causing the squeak.

    Good luck,
    Ed

    PS: Ken - sorry I got the speakers backwards - it's been awhile.
  • mst3kguymst3kguy Posts: 10
    ed/lark6 wrote:

    <<PS: BTW, why am I not surprised that a guy with the screen name mst3kguy would buy a For(r)ester? ;-)>>

    d'oh! i'm surprised people even understand the name these days...

    dean
    cincinnati, ohio
    '02s+
This discussion has been closed.