Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Subaru Forester (up to 2005)



  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    I'll bet there are more XT owners regreting they didn't buy a regular "X" than vice versa.

    Anyway, it is clear that the plain "X" is safer than the XT , and safety is high on the list of why people buy a Forester.
  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    And just think, what if you are driving down a country road in NJ at 2 in the morning and your XT is suddenly bathe in brilliant white light and you start to feel the tractor beam getting a grip on your Forester. The Turbo to the rescue! You slam the gas pedal to the floor and you narrowly escape the alien abduction!!! You would be surprised by the number of people driving the regular "X" who have never been heard from again.

    what if......
  • I have a 2004 FXT 5-speed. I don't have any regrets for buying it over an X or XS non-turbo. I consider this car very safe - its handling inspires confidence, the all-around visibility is unsurpassed, and the turbo engine ensures a stress-reduced driving experience, especially in the NYC metro area. Not having to plan for merges, especially in NYC, where some on-ramps are all of 50 feet, is certainly reassuring.

    I had a 96 Legacy 2.2L 5-speed, and, while a great handling car, it could not get out of its own way. Many, many times, I had no choice but to keep redlining it just to barely keep up with the NYC 500 rat race. Very frustrating.

    With the FXT, it's easy. Just press the "GO" pedal, and the car GOES! And I get to laugh at all the expensive "sport" cars that can't keep up with the little FXT.
  • ;) Beam me up scotty, I'm ready to go. Always wondered how much HP a UFO has! Guess I'll find out in my non-turbo!
  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    samiam, thanks for reminding me that my favorite view of the NYC skyline is the one I get looking in my rear-view mirror!

    I'm sure the turbo model is safe to drive...just joking with the "what if " crowd.

    In fact, I'm starting to regret not buying the XT. If I had the XT, at night I could sneak out of my senior citizen's retirement center and go cruising for some street races. ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    X-Trail, I stand corrected. That's the one. Not sure why Nissan never brought it here, though the XTerra does well, it doesn't overlap at all with the X-Trail.

  • dstew1dstew1 Posts: 275
    The new Pathfinder is also better at towing, carrying heavy loads and going off road than your FXT. Hey... it's a "truck," and therefore does truck-chores better than a car. Nissan need not make any apologies for the new Pathfinder.

    Towing and carrying big loads, no doubt. Although when my brother asked for my help in hauling some garbage to a dumpster yesterday, he was quick to suggest we put the bin with the most spillage potential into my Forester because of the easy-clean cargo mat (the only mat available for his Pathfinder only covers the area BEHIND the third row seat).

    As for offroading, while it's got some advantages over a Forester, it ain't no Jeep. At 8.9" of ground clearance it sits only 1 inch higher than my FXT (it looks even lower than that with its stocky build), the approach/departure angles are better, and it's got a 4WD Low setting. So technically, yes, it's better. But on a grand scale it's no more an offroader than my Forester is; the new Pathfinder was built for the highway, evident by its soft suspension among other things (heavy, higher center of gravity, lots of breakable plastic down low, etc). When it comes to offroad-capable SUVs, Nissan went the way of Ford on this one, knowing that most Pathfinder owners would be sticking to pavement.

    If anyone's REALLY going offroad and shopping Nissan, I hope they're looking at one of the pick-ups or an XTerra.

    I think cross-shopping a Pathfinder with a Forester is like comparing apples to oranges.

    I completely agree. And personally I prefer oranges, but when I'm hungry for an apple the Pathfinder is pretty tasty!

  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,661
    But on a grand scale it's no more an offroader than my Forester is;

    I too own a Forester, so your preaching to the choir. However, if I also owned a Pathfinder—that would be the one I would go off road with. That would be the one I drive on the beach, and not the Forester.

  • Does anyone know the battery group size for the "03 Forester XT automatic?
    The owner's manual says it is 12V-52AH (75D23L)
    I'm not sure what this means, but consumer reports just did a report on automotive batteries and they are sorted by group size. I was hoping I could choose a replacement based on their recommendations.
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 366
    I almost have enough Subaru Bucks for the 30K tune p (dealer quote $604 -- if I did not have the Subbie Bucks, I would have it done at an independent garage) and mud guards on my 03XsS. Two questions:

    1. Other than initial cost, is there any disadvantages to getting platnuim plugs rather than the coppers on a NA engine.

    2. Flushihng the brake lines and replacing the brake fluid at 30K seems silly. I have driven many cars 80-150K without changing brake fluid, never reconginzed a problem. How necessary is that? If the brake fluid is replaced, what about using silicone fluid (DOT 5)vs the standard stuff DOT 4)?

    nThanks and happy new year to ya'all!
  • spark plugs--since the change interval is not dependent on the tip, the only disadvantage is cost of the plug.

    30k on the brake fluid may be too often it all dependents on how much moisture absorption you get in your fluid. In muggy climates parked outside all the time, 30k is probably about right.

    Silicone fluid has a major advantage in that it does not absorb water. However, that is also its major disadvantage too. The water will end up collecting at the low spots of the system and cause more corrosion than the standard fluid.

    Hope this helps. I did my 30k on my XS myself last year, it took about half a day. Had I an AT instead of MT, I probably would have taken it in. The 30k cost me about $100 in parts. If you are mechanically inclined, I recommend saving your money for something more critical.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Go ahead and flush the fluids - my Miata had a bad clutch slave cylinder (the system uses brake fluid, by the way), and the fluid in there was discolored and basically just nasty. The new fluid was probably 10 shades lighter in color.

    I don't recall the mileage, but I only have 58k miles now, so it wasn't with a lot of miles.

  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    Changing the brake fluid at 30k is probably excessive but excessive maintenance has not be known to cause problems. GM doesn't recommend changing the brake fluid at all whereas BMW says to do it once a year. I had the brake fluid on my 95 Dodge Ram pick-up changed recently at 75k miles when I had a front brake job done. I would stay with the DOT 4 fluid. I read somewhere that brake fluid loses about 2% of its compression every year because of water absorption.

    Subaru's maintenance schedule might be one reason some Subaru owners get 250 to 300k miles out of their vehicles. ;)
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I was in an accident over the weekend and would like any thoughts on things to be careful about while getting repairs done.

    The short version: We spun on ice, 360 degrees across oncoming traffic (thank god nothing was coming), off the road and down a parks access road (thank god the access road was there or it would have been a guardrail instead) and straighted out just in time to go headfirst into a snow bank. The car came to rest at about a 30 degree angle with the right wheels up on the snow bank and the left wheels on the dirt road.

    Damage was amazingly minimal considering we were going 45 MPH. The front bumper and underassembly needs replaced, as do the plastic fender liners. Other than that, just scratches all around from sliding through the gravel of the access road.

    Other than making sure I get a 4-wheel alignment, is there anything else I should mention to the dealer's collision center? We were on our way out of state and have probably driven 500 miles since the accident with no known problems, but not sure if there might be something else to get checked out, especially with the AWD drive train.

    Any thoughts, thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    First, let's be glad noone was hurt.

    Black ice is tricky, you never see it coming. All you can do is keep an eye on the outside temp gauage, if it's under 35 be careful, especially on bridges and overpasses. In certain places there's not much you can do.

    Have them check out the tires, the rims for any dents (most can be fixed), the alignment, and maybe the wheel bearings, which would be been stressed if you hit a curb.

    It's probably fine if you didn't notice anything in 500 miles since.

  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    I would buy the extended warranty protection for the drive train components. Normally, I would be against it but it is now something for you to consider.
  • raybearraybear Posts: 1,776
    If a problem occurred which was attributed to an earlier accident the warranty wouldn't cover it.
  • rochcomrochcom Posts: 247
    My '98 specifies DOT 3 fluid. DOT 4 is compatible but has a higher temperature rating, so for a few extra dollars it is good protection. DOT 5 is a silicone based fluid and is suitable only for vehicles that were designed for it. It can cause damage to systems that were not.

    I used to drive in club sponsored "driving schools" - basically excuses to drive around a racetrack very fast, and they all required that the brake fluid be changed within a few months of the track event for safety.

    Brake fluid is relatively inexpensive, though labor costs can be high because it takes some doing to "bleed" the system of air before the vehicle is drivable. If I were really strapped for cash, the LAST thing I would skimp on is brake fluid. If you can't stop, it will be a lot more expensive to repair the damage -- that is if you are around to pay for it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    So I got a chance to play with my OBDII scanner, my Forester just threw a P0302 code, cylinder #2 misfire. The handbook says it's a minor fault.

    The only symptom was a slightly rough idle, and a little more NVH from the engine at speed.

    I reset the code, changed the oil (it was due anyway), and filled up the gas tank with some decent Chevron gas, and it hasn't come back. It's smoothed out, also.

    So, what do you folks think? Bad tank of gas?

    I'm curious as to why only Cylinder #2 recorded a misfire, though. Which one is that, BTW, passenger side rear IIRC?

    I'm thinking about changing the spark plug wires, since they are original (81k miles, 8 years). The ones on my Miata only last 30k miles, so I'm about to replace my 2nd set on that car. Anyone think that might have contributed?

    Then, our Legacy threw a MIL. :mad:

    But get this, P0442, "emission control system leak". Anyone want to guess who forgot to put on their gas cap?

    Good news is a quick reset fixed that. Human error.

    Thoughts on the misfire, though? You guys think it was the gas? Should I proactively change anything else?

  • mckeownmckeown Posts: 165
    Cyl 2 is the passenger side front. Nearest the radiator. Misfire means the 'crank' sensor expected a pulse within 'xx'ms of the plug firing. Same as a 'miss' on the older cars. I would start with the plugs....then wires....coil....clean/swap injector #2....possibly bad connection on injector....seen this all the way back to be an ECU once. But start with the easy things first. Good Luck.
This discussion has been closed.