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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Warning lights and trouble codes

These codes are Fuel Composition Sensor Circiut #178 Says Low input and #179 says High input. The dealership says i need to replace Fuel sensor ,part will cost $677.00 and also replace fuel pump inside of gas tank upon which they want to drop and clean out because of some smut that might be in the tank due to sensor breaking apart!!! this will only cost me $1500.00, This is crazy Please can someone help me????
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Comments

  • binmtbinmt Posts: 2
    my truck keeps tripping the code P0179...fuel composition circuit high output is the explaination, I can clear this and it comes back after driving a mile or 2, any hints on how to remedy this,
  • i have a 98 S-10 2WD. recently i went over a bump and my abs light came on. it stays on most of the time now,but does go off occasionally.i needed to do some brake work anyway, so i thought i would rip into the brakes to find the problem. i replaced both rotors, both calipers,new pads,and replaced and bled my brake fluid. im sure i did all that right,i have some training on brakes.i have no training on ABS though.i inspected my sensors and saw nothing wrong,and wires were fine.i did notice one of my rotors turned by itself,meaning it was not balanced,thats why i replaced my rotors as well. looking at the rust,and the unbalanced rotor,i noticed alot of debris near the sensor.i cleaned that really well.
    got everything back together, brakes work great, but still got the ABS light on. i read in my chiltons cd disc,that to diagnos the abs,i need and "obd II" scanner. i went to my local auto store, they said they could test it,but when they did,it showed no errors. not wanting to replace all my sensors for no reason,i decided to read online for other people with similar issues.only thing i have read so far ,that may help me,is a forum where someone said that not all scanners can diagnos the abs system,and most likely would have to go to a dealer. anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? by the way,i did tear open my rear brakes and inspected everything,and it was fine,and after reading my chilton cd,i discovered the sensor for the rear wheels is on the rear of the transmission,i think i found it as well, and wires seemed ok.
    what now? will the dealer ship charge me a fortune just to hook up the scanner to diagnos what part of the abs is failing? was the local auto stores scanner just junk or cheap?
    any help would be nice. thanks
    allenx1966@aol.com
  • grebburtsgrebburts Posts: 1
    Hey,
    I am not as well versed in brakes but recently after a severe rain storm my ABS light came on and stayed on. Also at the same time my battery light blinked on and off intermediately. After shutting the car off the lights went out, however after driving about 5 miles the ABS light came back on and stayed on , but not the battery light. Don't want to get ripped at a dealer, and was thinking this could be a sensor problem as well since the battery light also made an appearance. Car has 98,000 miles but really have not had any other problems. Any advise anyone?
    :sick:
  • i can only offer a good guess. actually my issue is related more to yours than you might know. long before my abs light came on,about 2 years ago, my S-10 would act real funny after an automatic car wash. comming to a stop, the brakes would loose grip and the abs system would kick in just the same as if i were stopping on ice. i figured there must be some issue with the sensor,but i never worried much because the abs light never came on. ..... now, back to my original post, i replaced calipers,shoes,and rotors after my abs light cam on. when finished, the light was still on. webt to locla parts store had the computer scanned for errors,they said there was nothing. then i read that not all scanners will show the problem, but thats just repeating my original post,sorry .... anyway .. last night, after still investigating the best way to troubleshoot the issue,i tried to get the light to go off.
    just for chits and giggles, i decided to go to the local power wash, and soak the hell pout of my front wheels. GUESS WHAT HAPPENED ???? THE ABS LIGHT WENT OUT!. im going to drive it a few days and see whats up, but if it comes on again,im either going to find the right computer scanner to tell me what sensor it is,or find a dealer that will test it cheap.
    i think the corrosion, and or debris,and or the water has damaged my sensor. i will get back to you if i find out more, or if you find a cheap way to get the computer diagnosed, let me know.
    thanks .... allenx1966@aol.com
  • well i think i may have found the cheapest and most silly way to find out our issues. i told you last night i went to car wash and wetted both my front wheels down and the abs light went off, well shortly after i wrote that first reply, i went out to my truck after it had all day to dry and the ABS light is back on. so here is my cheap and silly way to check this for free. i know that i get a response from wetting my front wheels, so now im simply going to wet one front wheel at a time, and let it dry, then wet the other wheel, and let it dry, then compare the results. that should narrow it down to either a bad sensor, or a invisible cracked or shorted wire on one or both of the wheels, at least this is my hope. once again, i will get back to you on this. bye for now
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You should make your post in the Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions discussion, where more Prix owners will see it.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As mentioned in the post box as well as the Membership Agreement, we ask that you not puit your email address in your posts. We can not be responsible for any misuse or abuse of your email address when it's posted this way.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ddavidddavid Posts: 1
    How do you turn light off after replacement of oxygen sensor
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    This is the Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma discussion, so you probably want to ask in our Mitsubishi Galant discussion.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I drive a S-10 and my wide drives a 02 gallant. Her light came on the other day because of the o2 sensor and I cleared it with the reader I used to detect the cause. I guess the question I would have is how did you know that the o2 sensor is what caused it to come on? Last spring her light came on and it was caused by not having the gas cap on tight. Good Luck.
  • millersmmillersm Posts: 2
    I was told the reason my ABS light is on is because its a faulty front right speed senor. So i went to autozone to order a abs speed sensor. the only had a sensor called " Speed Sensor part number SU1283 made by WELLS" Is this the right one.

    One more thing where is it i can not seem to find it ?
  • flakoflako Posts: 4
    I have a code 122 throttle position sensor switch/ a circuit low input. is this something that I can check myself????
  • dean20dean20 Posts: 1
    My ABS kicks in without any warning. This has happened in all road and weather conditions. I took it to the dealer and was told that it was in the computer,1000.00 + to have repaired. I then made an appointment and took it back,left it all day,only to return and be told that was not the problem and they where not sure what it was. Anyone else having this happen? Any answers as to what the problem could be?
  • goodgodgoodgod Posts: 6
    I have an 89 GMC S15 that I believe only has rear ABS. My brake light indicator gave me a code 9, which is the speed sensor (not the vehicle speed sensor - code 24). I am unable to locate a pic of the sensor location. I also see no electrical wires to trace anywhere near either of the rear wheels.
    My brakes work 100%. I replaced my vacuum booster last weekend because my RPMs increased when I stepped on the brake. I reset the ABS after I was done, but it came back on as soon as I went down the road.
    Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance
  • i was wondering if you fixed your problem my 97 s10 kicks the abs pump/motor on all the time it is very scary as all stoping is lost can you help me?
  • my abs pump/motor turns on alot even when the brake is not being used when this happens the peddle goes to the floor and the truck can not be stopped this is my only vechele to get to work i need help please
  • We have 2 different problems. I have no consequences with my light, but I still would like to fix it. Also, I think that we have 2 different systems - mine is the old style
  • km59km59 Posts: 4
    Hi,I own a 2001 Chevy S10 ExtCab LS 2WD(2.2L 4cyl)I'm having the same problems except my Fault Codes ARE PO178 AND PO179 , I've cleared the codes but they come right back.Both are Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit High input and low input, I'm going crazy cause i can't pass inspection because of this. The dealership says it will run about $1500 to replace the fuel sensor and clean out my gas tank and replace a new fuel pump in the tank!!!! I don't have that kind of money. I know this is not helping your problem but i was hopeing someone like yourself might have gotten some new info that might help and if you can relay it to me i would be very grateful.
  • Have about 70k, 4 cylinder, auto. ext cab.

    Brake warning light came on, brake res. a little low, brake petal a little soft & low. bought truck used at 30k and no brake work.

    Will warning light come on with pads low? not making noise or pulling, driving spareingly for next two-three weeks when I can get it worked on.
  • Hi,

    Step on your Emergency brake light - and see it it get's brighter ?? I've heard that the break warning light will com on when the emergency brake is on - AND - it will light at "partial" brightness when the computer sees a problem with the Brakes as well (i.e. ABS sensor). If what I heard is correct - it may be a wheel sensor needs replacement or adjustment ...

    Please let us know what the actual fix is ???

    Canufixit
  • I recently bought a 1998 s-10 with 60,000 miles, when i looked at it, the starter turned hard, and it wouldn't start on ether, but i figured the price was ok and if I put a starter on it would turn faster and start, so I put a new starter on , and now, nothing the lights buzz inside, but there is nothing inside, it came with copied keys, so I took it to a local, and he changed the colm for 400$ to a junk yard one, well, still nothing he told me to take it to a dealer, I told him all your good for is putting new parts on, so what ever, now I have a truck with 60,000 miles and a clean body, that don't run, what should i do I either thought take it to a dealer, buy a wrecked truck, change the harness, buy a wrecked truck, change the motor and selected body panels, what do you all think, and how hard is the harness to do on this truck?

    Thanks
    Dan
  • km59km59 Posts: 4
    If you already have fixed your problem great, but i had to change out the FCS Which is located on the right front/pass frame rail and behind the fender wheel housing which i had to take out in order to get to the sensor. Also i needed a Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set i bought at a local auto parts for $8.00 to get the 2 fuel lines off of the old sensor. It only has two bolts and a electical connection you need to unplug to take out, also relieve any fuel pressure before making repair.
  • My check engine light came on recently after I replaced the alternator. I don't know if the two are related. My gas cap is on tight, my fuel filter is brand new, new brake pads on the front and all fluids are good. How to diagnose why the *#@! light is on? :confuse:
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    If the light came on immediately after replacing the alternator I would say they are probably related.
    However, no one can guess at what may be causing the light to come on without at least knowing what code is stored. Go by AutoZone and get the code or codes read and come back and post and someone should be able to offer a bit more guidance.
  • km59km59 Posts: 4
    I fixed the problem by buying the part at my local salvage yard, the part cost me $10.00,I replaced the Flex Fuel Composition Sensor and the MIL light cleared and OBD Fault codes cleared. No need for all that money the dealership wanted from my wallet!!!! Do it yourself in 1HR and feel very good about not giving in to the Money Grabbers.
  • redlowredlow Posts: 2
    Hello, this is my first post here. I have an 02 Sonoma 2wd 4.3 auto. Last year, leaving Ontario we ran into a blizzard with lots of wet snow and salty roads. The check engine light came on and stayed on until we got to NC and stopped overnight. The next morning the light was out and stayed out all the way to Florida for Bikeweek. On the way home it came on during a rainstorm and then went out when it got dry again and never re-appeared.
    Until...last week after a wet and salty snowstorm the check engine light came on and the truck idled a little rough. My neighbour put his code scanner on it and we got a P0300 and P0131 code. P0300 os "random misfire" and P0131 is "Bank 1 sensor 1 low voltage". I changed the driver's side front O2 sensor, intalled a new cap and rotor and spark plugs and cleared the codes. The truck ran perfectly for one day and then the Check engine light came back on and the truck started running roughly. I checked the codes again and the P0300 code is set with a second P0300 pending.
    I read that the EGR valve can stick and cause these problems. Here's the dumb question...Where is the EGR valve? I have ordered a service manual but it's not here yet.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    I would suspect ignition wires. EGR valve location will be found in the owner manual, shows a under the hood picture and legend.
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