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Isuzu Trooper Stalling Problems

Has anyone had this problem? It will stall when coming to a stop. Took it into isuzu dealer. They changed the head gaskets saying they were sucking air. Drove home and problem started just the same. Took back, they cleaned egr and they said that the wiring harness must have a break in it. But no dealer has one and isuzu has 3-6 week backorder.
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Comments

  • I have a 98 trooper and it was doing the same thing, so I asked around at work and a guy with a Mustang used to have the same issue. before it stalls, does the RPM needle bounce, If so, Check you Intake sensor. I sprayed mine with a can of air and have not had a problem since. I also had my Fuel injection cleaned ($50 at jiffy lube) and have been adding a fuel additive and it has be running great for a truck with 140k
  • amollohanamollohan Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Isuzu trooper. In the past if I did not let it run for a few mintues it would die when I stopped. Now, I was just driving along (had driven 30 ate dinner then about 15 later) and it just died. It strarted right up again after it sat for about 15 min. Then a couple of days later I had driven it to work ( no problems) but coming home it died and had to wait 15-20 min. and then it started, it died again a couple of miles later. Let set for about 1 hour and it started right up. My husband changed the fule filter because it would not start at all the next day. I drove to work no problems, coming home filled with gas and would not start for 45 min and then died again 15 miles later. Sat for 20 min and started up and drove the other 15 miles home.
  • after the engine heats up ,it will cut out and die and have to wait until cools off then starts right up,I replaced the coolant sensor under the intake is there another one
  • my 2000 isuzu trooper just start doing the same thing after changing the EGR valve. It start to stall when comes to a stop. What did you find out about your problem?
  • It was a bad wiring harness. Somewhere in the bundle that runs across the top of the engine the wire shorted out. A common problem on this vehicle. Took two months of going thru bad used ones(cannot have any cuts because some cables are shielded) which I had to find throughout the country on my own. I finally found a new one on my one at a dealership in Mass. Isuzu did not produce the part any longer and had no time frame on producing it. Isuzu reps were terrible and did not get back with me on several occasions.
  • thanks man. today i run another test it gave me codes PO300, PO 505, PO171 and PO1340. What codes gave to you when you had the problem. For the cables that you talk about, are those the ones that connect to a little box in top of the engine?
  • I cant remember the codes. Just take it to an isuzu dealership and the will have the info you need. Yes it runs atop the engine. It is a bundle of wires(part #8-97148-639-8-Costs $413.46, paid $330 from Seekonk Isuzu 401-434-6985) that comes of your fuse box inside the engine and spiders out throughout every sensor/electrical device under the hood. The wires that normally go bad runs in a black plastic tray on top of the engine. Which is extremely hot while running.
  • takohuntertakohunter Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with my 94 trooper. Does anyone have an idea why the stalling is intermittent?
  • I have a 1994 trooper and recently it has been stalling on me without any warning. After it stalls and I re-try to start it, the RPM needles flutters and then the car dies out. After waiting about 15-20 minutes, I can start the car and then it runs normal again. I took it to a mechanic and could nnot find the problem as it only occurs randomly. Does anyone else have this problem? A couple of people said it could be the fuel filter or pump and that I should also get a tune up. nother person thinks it could be the ignition coil. I am not mechanically versed so can anyone help me.
  • Maybe this info can help. It happens with my 89 trooper and it took me a month to find it out. Those symptoms occurs when the ignition control module fails. At colder temperautres works but when it is hot fails, thats why after 20 minutes or so it works again and the computer never stores a code but you can retraive a code if after the vehicle dies, keep starting for about 5 seconds and the computer stores a code. What happens is that the ECM does not pulses the voltage to the ignition coil and keep it steady. Thats why you probably smell gasoline odor after cranking for a while. Theres not current to the sparks. In some models this problem can also damage the ignitor, which is a solid state transistor that sends the voltage to the ignition coil. Normally the ignition control module also known as the pick up coil is located inside the ignition. Other are located at the crankshaft pulley . Hope this can help.
  • forgot to add to the comment I posted that you see something important. The RPM needle fluters because the ignition control module is the signal that the ECM uses to indicated the engine rpm's. Your trooper probably has a bad ignition control module. Let it checked or try to recover a code. If you got a code post it and I can verify in the books and give you the sympthom.
  • Thank you for the information I will relay this to the mechanics. My car is still in the shop and they are trying to find what may be causing this problem. They did say it may have something to do with the wiring harness?? so they are going through that as well. I also had them check the fuel relay, but that looked ok.
    I did not mention this in my previous e-mail, but my speedometer stopped working as soon as the alternator went bad. They got a new part for the speedometer and whn they put that in the speedometer worked for awhile then stopped again. Don't know if this problem will help in finding the solution. I appreciate your help.
  • Hi,
    Hope you can enyoy your car sooner, just mention the mecs my concern, maybe it can help. Normally the speedometer (not the RPM indicator) is driven by a cable that runs from the transmission to the instrument cluster, like the cable the lanyard trimmers have to transmits the rotation of the engine to the wires at the end. If for any reason it bends or if it is old sometimes brokes and you loose the speed indication.

    Forgot to mention that the engine speed indication (RPM, revolutions per minute) comes from the ignition control module. It send electrical pulses to the ECm and the instrument panel.
  • Thank you. I will mention this to the mechanics.
  • i have a 91 i replaced all spark plugs and things it still cranks but wont start :confuse:
  • replace coil,module,rotor cap.run fine for one day has no spark now,was hard to start. :confuse: :sick:
  • mii358mii358 Posts: 1
    Guys I need some help . . . . Here’s my tale of woe.

    I have a ’91 Trooper, 4 Cylinder, ITEC, 155K, 5-Speed . . . . been in the family a dozen years, has run like a top until recently.

    Early Symptoms {before the Local Shop & Dealer} :

    Running on the freeway out of the blue it spits, sputters and then backfires; choke, choke (gave it a little gas the first time and blew a hole in the muffler, never again. The only time I remember smelling gas) spit, sputter, then smooth out, spit, sputter and run just fine. Ever had the condenser wire rub the inside of a distributor? Same, Same.

    And there doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason as to frequency.

    Although two things that have been consistent:

    It happens more frequently when the engine has reached its normal operating temperature. (removed the thermostat hoping it would run coloer)

    It is ALWAYS triggered when I try to accelerate at lower RPMs, especially, if I am putting the engine in a bit of a strain.

    On two occasions Local Shop repaired some vacuum lines and it ran just fine.

    Then last month it limped home and on to the Local Shop around the corner, but that was it.

    Local Shop kept if for 19 days : replaced distributor, coil, ERG, wires, cap & rotor, plugs, injectors, timing belt, replaced vacuum lines, smoked the intake for leaks, corrected timing, reset intake valve on 3rd Cylinder, cleaned throttle body and air sensor (at breather), checked full pump pressure 135+. Got it back idling at 2000 RPMs (just died out if lower). They were apologetic at not being able to find a cure, but still handed me a bill for $1100.

    Off to the dealer : replaced the plugs, reset timing, reworked vacuum lines, third cylinder plug cross threaded – repaired. Good compression 155+ per cylinder. Once again apologetic for not being able to find the problem. $477 for their efforts.

    Current Symptoms {after the Local Shop & Dealer} :

    Runs pretty strong over 2500 RPMs (especially on a cold day)

    I got it back from the dealer idling about 1200 with a definite blup, blup, blup idling in the driveway. (you’d swear one of the plug wires had come off)

    After two weeks of anxious driving it’s starting to fail again when I put a bit of a strain on the engine and am afraid it won’t be too long until I’m on the bus again.

    I have a feeling it is going to be something simple and I'm leaning toward something electrical.

    Needless to say any suggestions you may render will be greatly appreciated . . . . JT of the O’Briens
  • Just got your input. Did this problem also cause a bucking effect when accelerating. My unit runs better at higher RPM
  • I have a 1989 Isuzu trooper today on my way to school, the O2, oil, parking brake, and gas warning lights all came on at the same time. i had is 1/2 a tank of gas, the parking brake is off, and the oil is fine. When i got back in the car to go home it would start run for about 5 secs (if i pushed on the gas) then die. The battery is new and the alternator seems to be working ok. Has anyone else had this happen? What could cause this?
  • ace09ace09 Posts: 2
    I have a 90' Isuzu Trooper. When I start it up it runs for less than a minute. If I can eventually get it started...it will idle and will not stall. I spoke with a mechanic who thought it could be the ignition switch. I took it apart and crossed some wires to test and eliminated the fact that it was not the ignition switch. I just changed the fuel pump in July. I changed out the fuel filter yesterday. Could it be a relay? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am SOOO frustrated. I have been trying everything. I also replaced the alternator yesterday. It was testing low voltage.

    Thank you!
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