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Comments
as far as roll over, i have been driving the cr-v as hard as i used to drive my civic, and let me tell you, fast lane changes are very close in handling to civic, but the car does feel top heavy. a couple of days ago, i took a very sharp turn (trying to get away from the jetta, lol) and i hear the tires sqeal, at firt i thought it was me, but as i progressed into the turn at full speed, i realized that it was jetta making the noise. even though jetta didn't spin out, it did loose traction and had to slow down. (if anyone interested it is the sharp turn on mosholu parkway, right uder the jerome avenue overpass in the bronx)
I'm sure many CR-Vs have rolled, but I've read about one. It was the result of a CR-V being side-swiped by a large Caddy at highway speeds. The owners promptly went out and bought another CR-V. With that said, you still have to drive it like an SUV. The NHTSA gave it a 3 star rating based on their static rollover calcualtions. This isn't good, but I don't think any other SUV has surpassed that score.
Jlim1 - Read back ion this thread and you'll find many opinions/rumors about the release of the next CR-V. Most agree that it'll be sometime after mid September.
Dudka - Yes. Read this:
http://www.ptcruiserusa.com/hondasuv/crvix/gallery/kitty_chan/gallery_kittychan.htm
I average 23-25 mpg in mixed driving during the Winter and 24-26 mpg in the warmer months. My overall average is above 25mpg. My last five tanks have gotten 24.96, 26.36, 28.64, 25.97, and 27.82. The 3rd and 5th were mostly highway miles. I also have the 5 speed which, contrary to the EPA estimates, seems to get better mpg than the auto.
Here's a bit of CR-V news for those who are considering leasing. The CR-V has the highest residual rates for small SUVs.
http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/dai/july/20010706_dai_alg.xml
I noticed that people in So Cal tend to get real good car deals. $1000 below invoice! Wow! Does anyone know by any chance how low one can get in the state of Washington? I have tried Priceline and the dealers here wouldn't even take $200 above invoice! (I'm wondering if Priceline charges the dealers a fee or something.)
Also, if anyone knows how to purchase new cars across the state line, please let me know. I might still be better off if I fly to So Cal and drive home a new CR-V. Thanks in advance!
Nope, not in Washington. What's funny is, in sunny California, the dealers are charged a fee, but the deals are better! Go figure.
It all comes down to regional differences. In the Pacific Northwest, there are fewer dealers relative to the number of customers, and they all charge about the same thing for their cars, some a bit less than others. In Los Angeles/Orange County, there is more competition and thus lower prices.
Keep in mind that some dealers will advertise a loss-leader, selling ONE car at well below invoice and the rest for whatever gets negotiated. You may want to check out those dealers who were mentioned.
My only question is: what should I expect if I want to have the in-dash 6 CD player instead of the single CD? Should pricing be dealer cost; dealer MSRP ? And what kind of credit should the single give $ wise into the cost of the 6 CD?
Any info appreciated.
Thanks!
Dateline said the CR-V tipped in side collisions, but I kind of just brushed that off, until I heard that when she got hit form the side (not injured luckily) From people who saw the accident, the belly of the car was totally exposed.
So after the awful accident, my daughter's friend did what anyone would do who had just gotten in a car accident involving being tipped over in a CR-V....BUY ANOTHER CR-V (Insert Sarcasm). But the new one was a 2001 black CR-V EX, since there weren't anymore 2000's left. The week old 2000 CR-V EX was totaled. Don't get me wrong, I like the CR-V, but if I had been tipped over in one, I might think twice before going out and buying a new one, let alone one the same color and trim level. It would just be a reminder of the accident to me.
as far as roll over goes, yesterday on the way home some old guy was making a left turn and instead of getting out in the middle of the intersection he was about 5 feet behind the white line, of course i don't want to miss the light, i went around him on the right, and he started moving too (i was making a left turn) i had to floor it and make a sharp left. let me tell you, the car handled perfectly, it leaned alot to the right, but the wheel were still planted (my 91 jetta would have lifted the innner rear wheel off the ground in this maneuver) after a second of screeching the front tires the rears kicked in and the car drove as if it were on rails. it competently followed the turn. anyway, i think the only way to get this car to roll over is to have something physically lift one side off the ground and then the car would roll over. car and driver has a very good article about roll overs. the static testing that nhtsa does means nothing, it is a driver that makes the car roll over. the statistics prove that 2 door explorers roll over 4 times as often as 4 door ones, even thought e car is the same it is the driver input that makes it flip. 2 door ones are usually driven by younger, stupider drivers than 4 door ones.
In fact, people always say "You have a Jeep? Don't they tip over?" My reply is now going to be: "No. I have three friends who have had Jeeps for years, and none of them have 'tipped over'."
I don't know of ANY cars which have "tipped over". This is of all the people I know and work with, and also I would imagine you'd read it in the paper "CAR TIPS OVER UNEXPECTEDLY, 4 INJURED!", which I have also NOT seen.
I wouldn't worry about it.
I've watched a Jeep roll backwards, but that doesn't count because it was off road, climbing a steep slope. We even got it on video.
We watched it in slo-mo and the guy was thrown around like you would not believe. His seat belt held him in place and the roll bar functioned as designed.
Maybe we should submit it to Fox for their next special, "When Cars Attack". ;-)
-juice
Personally I have witnessed a MB station wagon roll onto its roof after being cut off by a speeding pickup, on I-95 in southern Virgina, . The family of four inside all got out, uninjured. The car wasn't hit, but the rooftop box and load of bikes on the rear contributed to the roll.
Rollover is certainly a problem for trucks, but the press has made a monster from a mole hill. The public hears "rollover" and instantly assumes the worst. It's like they're thinking, "I'd rather be dropped from a plane, than be involved in a rollover". They don't even kow why they're afraid of rollovers. They just know that the press is making them sound scary.
The reason why rollovers are dangerous deflates the issue and makes it less newsworthy. You can't sell a news show, paper, or magazine without scaring the public. This is the deal... Rollovers are dangerous because:
1. There is a greater danger of injury from bouncing around in the cabin. This is in part due to the fact that SUV's have larger cabins than cars.
2. SUVs have a higher probablility of ejection from the vehicle. Those big windows are a culprit and the extra space in the cabin contributes as well.
3. To a lesser extend there is also a concern over the roof crushing in. This is less of a problem than the other two possibilities, but it deserves mention.
Now here's the last stat that Stone Phillips reported in his segment on rollovers; 80-90% of deaths in a rollover happen to people who were unbelted. It makes perfect sense. Wearing a seat belt will help prevent both number 1 and 2 from above. However, rather than tell the public how to save their lives, the media has been focusing on death rates and scary stuff to get better ratings, sell more subscriptions, and whatever else the publicity might do for them.
Another thing that the press will do is tell you the frequency for rollovers without mentioned anything to compare it with. "You are 2-3 times more likely to rollover in an SUV, than you would be in a car." What they don;t mention is that rollovers are still one of the least likely types of accidents you can be involved in. You are much more likely to experience a frontal collision (where an SUV might be safer) than a rollover.
The bottom line is rollovers are a problem, but simply wearing a seat belt can reduce the danger of death or serious injury to a level that is no more dangerous (perhaps less) than any other form of accident.
JM2C Okay maybe 5 cents. :-)
question to all cr-v owners. are your gas and brake pedals lined up? as far as i remeber all three pedals were inline in my civic, but in this spanking new cr-v the gas pedal is farther in than the brake pedal. it makes it very difficult to drive in stop and go traffic, since i actually have to lift off my foot and move it to brake. i am not sure whether it is because the cr-v is automatic or whether the pedals were not properly lined up. i am going to be due for an oil change in a week or so, i was thinking of asking them to line up the pedals. any input?
It won't be cheap, but you'll have professional quality results.
-juice
I'm new to the list. My wife and I are shopping for a small SUV. I would gather from what I read here that none of you would be surprised to hear that the CRV is high on our list of SUVs we're considering, although we're still working on our final decision. A few questions come to mind, and I hope you can provide some insight.
1. How is Honda service? I'm mainly referring to the maintenance schedule usually recommended by the manufacturer. We bought a Toyota Camry in 1996, great car, and we religiously follow their maintenance schedule, at least for the warranty period, by taking it back to the dealer at each scheduled mileage interval. After some point, we are now at about 66K, it became apparent to us that there is an awful lot of redundant, and seemingly unnecessary, maintenance going on, as prescribed by Toyota. And, as it turns out have spent a great deal of money as a result. I'm annoyed by this, and I told them that. The last time I took the car in it was a worse than usual experience and I have vowed not to take it back to the dealer unless there is no other choice, and then maybe to a different dealer. Does Honda play this same game? I know oil should be every 3K, but it's all the other stuff they want to replace.
2. How did you feel about the differences between a true AWD system and the Real-Time system of the CRV? How did it affect your decision on which car to buy? Any experiences that point out good or bad?
3. I've seen somewhere in my travels across the web that Honda may be redesigning the CRV for 2002? Anyone know what the new design will be, how different, etc. We need a car now, so I don't really want to wait, and the current design is a proven one.
4. Did anyone opt for the passenger side arm rest? If not, do you wish you had? If so, does it affect the pass through feature much?
5. I thought the power lock mechanism for the driver only was a little strange. After some thought my wife realized that we generally leave it up to the driver to control that anyway, but has anyone found this an annoyance, or a problem?
Thanks for you time.
2. Having driven most common drive layouts (FWD, RWD, AWD/4WD) prior to owning a 'V, I was surprised at the effectiveness of the system. From the driver's standpoint, it requires no input, so it is foolproof to operate. It works well and I have had more than enough traction to get me through snow, ice, wet gress, etc. I know it is not a hard core off roader, but neither are the AWD competitors. It works well and keeps you going.
3. I think you answered this question yourself. You need something now and the current design is proven.
4. No, but i've seen others who bought it after the fact and installed it themselves. Easy enought to do. It will make the space smaller, but the only one in my family that passes thru much is my 4 year old daughter.
5. No, since my wife generally tells me to lock the doors as we are backing out of the driveway. I like it that way because it is one less thing for my daughters to play with. BTW, thank God for child locks, just remember to let out the adults that might get trapped in the back (sorry Mom).
Melas -- i am a new cr-v owner, and the first impressions are good.
1. service -- honda dealer will have you thinking that you have to service your car there. in my previous dealings with honda they always referred to manual that you have to have the car service d there. i was surprized to read in the the CR-v manual, in bold, that you do not have to have your car maintaned at honda in order to get warranty coverage. the only benefit i see in having you car serviced at honda is the good will coverage, after the warranty expired. if you don't live in any megapolis (stop and go traffic) you can have your oil changed every 7000 miles or so (3750 for extreme conditions)
2. never had an all time 4WD so can't compare, but theoretically AWD saves you on gas and creates less noise in everyday driving, by having just the front wheels do all the work.
3.honda is pretty good at keeping secrets, whatever pictures you see are artist's rendition of what the new cr-v MIGHT look like.
4. i was surprized that honda would only give driver's arm rest but not passenger, i am going to buy on on line and install it myself.
5. it was awkward at forst that the same button on driver's door controls the door locks, while it controlled the power windows on the other 3 doors. one thing that is really awkward is the location of the power windows buttons, to the left of the steering wheel. very unusuall location
1.The Honda recommended service is quite easy compared to other vehicles I've had. I picked up a shop manual at helm.com and have done everything myself. I must admit though the item about "check antenna mast" is questionable. My CRV has almost 45K miles so I'll be getting into some replacement items soon. I plan on doing everything except the timing belt and I'd consider myself at best an average mechanic. I'll religiously change the recommended fluids, plugs, filters, etc., but the stuff about "check this check that" is questionable.
2.I live in Florida so have no need for AWD, can't help you out here.
3.I prefer not to buy a new model year since there are usually a few problems. I did get the Odyssey mini-van when it came out and it was at the dealer a few times. I have never had to take my CRV in for anything.
4.I got the passenger side arm rest, very easy to install, really makes a difference.
5.I too originally thought the power door locks only on the driver's side was strange, but after driving the vehicle, there's very few times when anyone but the driver locks the doors.
Hope this helps.
RT4WD works without fanfare. Most of the time, I'm able to get through the snow without it engaging. I think it was Car and Driver that did a comparison in early spring with all of the mini-utes. They had a trip to the mountains for some deep snow driving. The CR-V scored very well (the Escape/Tribute were the worst/ the Forester is also good). I had a chance to watch RT4WD in action while getting a CR-V unstuck on some snowmobile trails. It works a good deal faster than most people give it credit for.
We have seen no facts on the '02 CR-V. Only speculation.
I have the passenger's armrest. If you like armrests, then you'll like this one. Personally, I could take or leave them. I got it for my wife. It does restrict the passthrough to the rear seat, but not so much that you cannot use it (note, I have a 5 speed). My only problem with it, is the fact that it hits the folding console when you try to fold the passenger's seat into "bed formation". Dunno if that'll matter to you.
Keyless remote was standard on my EX, so the locking mechanisms have never been a problem. I just press a button. You can add it to the LX model for $60-70 by shopping aftermarket vendors.
1. While Honda does mot like to use the R word (rebate) they just had a $2000 "cash back to dealer" to clear out the 2001 (old style) Integra. Does anybody think Honda will do this with the CR-v or is it still too strong a product?
2. And, about the bed feature? I was looking at the cheapest CR-V. I think I read on this board that not all models will fold down to bed feature. Why is this?
Also, still waiting to see the 2002 but price will probably be higher than what I am planning to spend. Have enjoyed all the pictures, real or not.
Honda Model X
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The bed feature is actually a big part of what separates the trim levels in other markets. It's a big deal in Honda's home market. The feature was introduced with the Step Wagon (a small minivan) and is partly responsible for that car's success. There's also quite a bit of hardware that goes into making that bed. The rear seat has a completely different frame with heavy duty hinges and rugged construction. By leaving it out of the LX models, Honda is probably saving quite a bit of cash.
Second, in regards to comparing, pricing, and purchasing similar vehicles--my wife and I spent three months carefully studying and driving SUVs/AWDs/minivans that would be appropriate for the Lake Michigan snowbelt in which we live. From an original list that included everything from Ford Focus wagons to Honda Odyssey minivans, we decided that the best fit in terms of finances, roominess, quality, and price was the CR-v. We narrowed it to a Subaru Outback Wagon and the CR-v. When it came to pricing, the CR-v won hands down. My immediate family members (parents and siblings) have owned in excess of 20 Hondas over the past 20 years. Number of lemons?? ZERO. We comfortably settled on the Honda.
I used email to get my purchase price. I used Honda's website to gather the email addresses of as many dealerships as I could find within a two-hour drive. Surprisingly, I found over fifty dealers! I contacted 41 of them on a Sunday night. By 11am Monday morning I had 4 out of 11 dealerships who had agreed to the price and two of them who promised to give me a "good price" on my trade. The dealership in Lafayette, IN gave me nearly $1,400 above the recommended trade value on our old van. In short--the email system worked quickly and painlessly. All paperwork was ready last Saturday when we drove the 120 miles to pick up our CR-v. It took us an hour to get all the papers signed and go over the vehicle with the salesperson. Wonderful.
We chose to add the passenger-side armrest, by the way. It felt really weird sitting in the passenger seat without any way to balance my laziness--heaven forbid me having to sit with arm in my lap or something like that! The armrest will be covered in the bumper-to-bumper, so I figured it was worth the extra $$.
this is the link to Bb open deck
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/bB_od/index.html
and original Bb
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/bB/index.html
I would avoid this as a potential safety concern. What if the driver is unable to unlock the doors as your car goes down in the lake?
Yeah, except Honda was fighting against the United States in case you've forgotten.
2. HONDA AWD: This was one of the main reasons I bought the CR-V. I wanted a transparent system that would aid in driving slick streets be it rain or sleet. I really had no intention of taking it off-road with the exception of the occassional gravel road or minor dirt roads which the CR-V drove on fine. If your consideration for AWD is the same as mine, the CR-V will do well for you.
3. FUTURE MODEL: Buying cars is like buying computers for me. I buy for what I need at the moment. It's very difficult to anticipate or even know what the future will bring except uncertainty. The current models are great. The rumormill has been churning stories about a more powerful engine - a needed improvement on the current model to stay competitive with other car makers, IMHO. Otherwise, the CR-V is a great vehicle with ample space and comfort that still equals or beats its contemporaries.
4. ARMREST: I installed my own passenger armrest and was a great addition to the CR-V. I don't really utilize the pass thru feature anyway since I use the tray in the middle anyway. The install is a "do-it-yourself" if you have some nerve and can handle a wrench and a utility knife. I spend about 30 minutes to install mine.
5. POWER LOCKS: Every vehicle has its idiosyncracies. I also was caught offguard when I saw the only locking mechanism was on the driver side and the window switch cluster on the dash instead of on the door. But after a while I got familiar with the locations and operation and no longer have to think about where the switches are. And if you do get the EX or SE model with the remotes, you'll probably end up using the remotes more that you do the switch anyway.
Hope this helps.
manual just says that avoid hard stops and
full throttle for the first 600 miles.
I have a 100 miles on my 2001 automatic EX,
and will travel 'bout 400 miles (round trip)
this weekend.
I?d gladly appreciate any feedback
Ummm... Pull up on the knob, maybe?
Actually, if your car is going down in a lake, you should wait until it is nearly full of water. Only then should you try to open a window or door.
Gwapo - Keep the RPMs under 4K. Don't drive a constant RPM (highway) for long periods of time. If you're taking a long highway trip, simply take frequent rest stops or take backroads every now and then. I drove a 500 mile road trip like that the first weekend I had mine.
Bob
I have a Subaru AWD and have driven the CRV in deep snow and ice. I can assure you that there is no real world difference between the two. Forget what anyone says about "proactive" vs. "reactive" systems (aren't those HUMAN....not mechanical, chracteristics???). The bottom line is that the the Honda system is just as effective as the Subaru. Edmunds here agrees....they tested the two head to head a while back and found the CRV to be a somewhat better off road performer. The other thing to keep in mind is the GENEROUS ground clearance (8.1 inches) of the CRV.
With the Subaru's system, the percentages of power is constantly changing between the front and rear axles. If you're accelerating hard, the weight transfers to the rear and with the Subaru's AWD system, so does the percentage of power. Conversely, when you're braking, with the weight transfer moving forward, so does the percentage of power. If your Subaru also has a limited slip rear differential, you also get power transfer left-to-right. That's what I mean by being proactive.
With the CRV's on demand 4WD system, there is no power transfer until slippage occurs. That's what I mean by reactive.
With Subaru system—or any "true" AWD system—you have 4WD all the time, that's working for you all the time. It's not being turned on and off, as with the CRV system. It's always on, working for the driver—proactively.
Bob
I think thats great that Subaru has this AWD system that is constantly changing and REACTING to moving forces it senses. You said you wish to differ with me as to which system (Honda vs Subaru) was more effective. Can you please reference the articles that show that the Subaru AWD IS more effective in real world driving.....because, after all, that is the question here. I would refer Prett to the mini ute comparison test done by the Edmund's editors here not too long ago. In that test, the Edmunds editors, in real world driving, rated the CRV off road capacity (which I think includes the drive system) above that of the Subaru. Bottom line, it was better. Those same editors also rated the CRV (2nd place) ahead of the Subaru (tied for fourth, I believe) in overall rank.