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2001 - 2006 Honda CR-Vs



  • saabgirlsaabgirl Posts: 184
    90% of the drivers out there never fall in under "NORMAL" but rather "SEVERE" driving schedule, the interval for that is 5000 miles.

    90% of the time this would be excellent advice, but my CR-V is primarily used for highway cruising and suburban use. No commuting, no city stop and go, few short trips. The family fleet includes two 8-year-old Saabs, and mine is the one that's usually used for those purposes. So my reading of the Honda owner's manual didn't seem to insist that I was in the "severe" category, which, I agree, should include any car used for commuting.

    It seems to me that fresh oil and filters is such a miniscule part of car ownership costs that choosing more frequent changes over less doesn't threaten the beer budget.

    But as John the Host points out, there are drivers who get satisfactory results with more casual tactics.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,938
    It's Steve and I think it's often a waste of good oil, time and money (even more so if you aren't following the manual). Unless you think your Honda motor is prone to gelling like some Toyotas were? :-)

    Steve, Host
  • saabgirlsaabgirl Posts: 184
    I think it's often a waste of good oil, time and money

    Sorry, Host Steve,for renaming you. My bad.

    Your's is the argument of my missus. My retort is that changing oil quarterly as opposed to twice annually requires such a modest additional expenditure of oil, time and money that it's hard to put up a persuasive argument against it.

    My neighbors, friends and relatives sometimes kid me for "over maintaining" my vehicles. However, when I'm in the mood to sell they show up checkbook in hand.

    Since my vehicle ownership strategy is buy and hold, I'll follow the money.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,938
    Maybe someone will give us $20 apiece and we can compare oil analyses, LOL. Check out Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 for lots more on the oil wars.

    I usually drive mine into the ground and take $1,000 on dealer trade so I don't have to face my neighbors.

    Next time you're in Boise, yell, and I'll buy your wife a cup of coffee. ;)

    Steve, Host
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    My bad.

    Just don't forget, that severe schedule applies if you experience weather under 32°F or above 90°F, so, while you may only have highway miles, if it snows, or gets really hot in the summer where you live, you still have to abide by the severe schedule.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    The oil should be changed every 3-4 mos regardless of mileage. The longer it stays in your engine the more harm it does. It gets water build up, acidity increases (acids start forming), etc. You should not go past 3.5-4mos with the same oil.

    I garage my '99 Integra GSR every winter because I mainly use it for racing and wknd driving. It cannot be driven in bad weather. The first winter I did it (the car had about 15k mi. on it), I didn't change the oil before storage because I figured the oil was only about 8 weeks old and it had about 1200 mi. since the last oil change. Well 4mos later in the Spring before I took it out on the road I checked the dipstick and the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was almost black! It was a brown (almost light brown) color when I stored it. So basically the oil went about 6mos without being changed and its properties still changed and seemed to have broken it down more even though it wasn't driven. I then did a lot of research and found out there 's different types of chemical reactions that take place over time and I never stay with the same oil more than 3 mos. even if it's synthetic.

    So SEVERE schedule all the way and for all my cars. You have nothing but to gain from this. Smoother running engine and maintain good gas mileage.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,938
    This is another point of contention; color may not indicate anything about the quality of the oil:

    mrdetailer, "Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2" #1079, 31 Dec 2001 1:13 pm

    Feel free to continue over there and get back to the CR-V in here.

    Steve, Host
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    I have no idea whether that oil was good or bad, but I do know that the color is not a good indicator of viscosity.

    If you really want to know how long it takes to break down the oil in our car, have it tested. Assuming the same driving habits are maintained year round (not likely for most people), have the oil tested after a 3 mo. change. Then again after a 4 mo. period. And once more after a 5 mo. period. Then you'll have a good baseline for deciding whether or not you'll require frequent changes.

    **edit** oops, Steve beat me to the point on color.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You can send a sample to and have it analyzed for less than you'd expect. We Subaru Crew folks do that often and it's nice to have him tell you how clean your engine is running.

    Try it out next time. Plan it in advance, you get a container to collect a sample, mail it in, then it's analyzed for you down to the last chemical element.

  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,719
    "Apparently the current Japanese automotive engineering theory is that having those metal particles suspended in modern oil aids in break-in and seating the rings."

    The honda owner's website used to have a note about the factory oil (I haven't looked at the site in a while). It said that the initial oil should stay in as long as possible, because it had additives that helped break in the engine. I left my factory oil in until 7500 miles. Thereafter 5000 mile oil changes, sometimes 6000 if I had a lot of highway miles. Now I'm at 40k miles and back on even 5K schedules.
  • Hi, I have a 2004 CR-V bought it brand new & recently I noticed the front grill has a little play, like drop I drop the hood the grill bounced a little. Anyone know how it attached because I can't figure it out or should I bring it to my dealer. Would that be cover by Honda warranty? Thanks, Andy
  • Bought a new 2006 CRV SE over the weekend, and have experienced a noticeable amount of road noise at moderate speed - similar to the noise of driving with one of the doors not fully shut. Even accused my wife of her not fully closing her passenger door. Needless to say, that comment to her did not go over too well!

    Anyway, I test drove extensively a different SE prior to purchasing and do not recall any similar noise in that particular SE. The only difference besides the color was that final assembly of the test drive SE was in England, and the vehicle was equipped with BF Goodrich tires. My vehicle's final assembly was in Japan, and it is equipped with Bridgestone tires.

    I noted in some earlier posts other complaints about Bridgestone tires. Is this the same type of noise you other Bridgestone tire owners have experienced? Anyone successful in getting the dealer to swap out the tires?

    The only other comments and questions I have is concerning the factory stereo --

    I've noticed the bass response on the factory stereo is on the weak side. Has anyone had the Honda subwoofer kit installed in their CRV? If so, did you notice a big improvement?

    Also, is anyone aware of an aftermarket auxiliary iPod jack for the CRV in order to avoid having to play your iPod through an FM modulator or cassette adaptor?

    Otherwise, in the four days I've owned the vehicle, everything else has been has been perfect.

    Thanks in advance for your comments.

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    similar to the noise of driving with one of the doors not fully shut. Even accused my wife of her not fully closing her passenger door. Needless to say, that comment to her did not go over too well!

    There is a light in the dashboard telling you if one of the doors is not fully shut. You could have avoided the argument with the Mrs. :-) (OWNER's MANUAL is your FRIEND, not enemy, READ it a few times!)
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    You should always test drive the same car you are purchasing before delivery and signing the final papers.

    I drive all my Hondas twice. When I first pick one out and put a deposit on it, and then at delivery/inspection time, before I sign the loan papers and all that.

    You should also always write down the VIN # of the vehicle you test drove and made the deal on. Sometimes they 'll sell your car to someone else and try and sell you another one just like it. They 've done it to me but I caught it. They tried to sell me a Civic with a deep scratch on the hood that they had covered (badly) with touch-up paint. I first noticed the VIN# was different (it wasn't my first new car) and refused to buy that car after I got suspicious and started looking at it very carefully and found the scratch. That was in '93. I have not trusted any dealerships since, even Acura ones.

    In your case it's most likely the Bridgestone Duellers. They can get pretty noisy but not like the door is open. You should take it back just in case and also ask them to test drive another CRV that has the same tires to compare the two.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Road noise is an issue with the CR-V. The tires you've got contribute to the noise, but they not the sole cause. Switching tires may help, but will not completely eliminate the sound.

    Best I can figure is that you drove on smoother roads or simply didn't notice during the test drive. :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ear plugs, or Eric Clapton real loud. :D

  • Elvis Costello works really well in my CR-V.. I think it is because we are singing along.. :surprise:

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • saabgirlsaabgirl Posts: 184
    I test drove a CR-V with Duellers but had the Goodrich tires installed as OE. The Goodrich reviews on Tire Rack were much better, and they're quieter than the Duellers.

    But a 1,000 mile round trip on Interstates taught me that CR-Vs are only as quiet as the road permits. A nice fresh stretch of blacktop and they fairly hum along. But there was a stretch through NY State on 17/286 that was definitely trucky. It had something to do with the road surface, because the noisiness had a very clearly defined beginning and end point to the ear even though the demarcation line was invisible to the eye. My manly inquisitive nature prompted me to want to stop and check out the road surface, but my co-pilot, who seems untouched by any interest in impromptu scientific research, vetoed the idea.

    Actually, it worked out well for me, because the road noise enabled me to get my copilot to stop playing her extensive CD collection of Overproduced Songs with Sappy Lyrics.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,446
    love the 'helpful' posts from othe cr-v owners.
    check your tire pressures. lube the door seals.
    post back if it makes a difference, or not.
  • I'm considering buying a Honda CRV 06, 4WD EX.
    I've never had an SUV; still driving an '89 Toyota Sedan.
    It's time to move on.

    I noticed in some of the forums that many people complained about the 05 CRV's having a hard pull to the right. Also, if you go to site, there are numerous complaints about this issue
    and severe torque steer (whatever that is) for the 05 CRV.

    Has anyone had this problem with the new CRV 06?

    Thanks for any info?

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