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Toyota 4Runner

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Comments

  • tradscotttradscott Posts: 108
    I was just looking at tirerack.com and noticed that there is a paltry selection of tires in the OEM size available.

    Has anyone tried the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo yet? If so, how do you like them.

    Also, has anyone stepped up to a 265/70R17? I have the V6 and I'm a little reluctant to decrease the final drive ratio, but I might just have to do so to get a decent selection of tires. If you've done this, did you notice much of a drop in acceleration?
  • kullenbergkullenberg Posts: 283
    I ditched the OEM Dunlops at 10K miles, and replaced them with Revo's in 265/65/17 (OEM size), and have never looked back. We just finished a winter with 90+" of snow, and I have a very steep drive. They have never even spun a wheel. I now have 21k miles (11K on the Revos) and they show negligible wear - should be good for 40k, at which point I'll get another set. BTW, I leave them on year round. :)
  • zeetechzeetech Posts: 1
    Hello!
    I don't know if this problem is already fixed or not. I'm a master tech (independent),and I have fixed this problem on few Toyotas- the dealer failed on it. The problem is the TPS (throttle position sensor) .There is a glitch on the variable resistor inside the sensor. Will not set the CEL (check engine light) and it can be detected only with a labscope -the dealer must have one- it must be set on a slow time, and the throttle must be fully open and close to see the glitch on the scope. CAN'T be detected with voltmeter. An average signal is : about 0.5 volt with closed throttle and about 4.5 volts with WOT (wide open throttle) What happens is, during the opening the signal voltage drops to 0 for few milisecond, that what makes the ECM nuts. The test wont take more than 20 minutes, however I like to test it when it's cold and warm. I don't usually run the engine but warm up the sensor with a heat gun or a good hair dryer. I hope this will help.
    Good luck!
    Zee
  • 2toyotas2toyotas Posts: 104
    There are two great tires available for this truck that immediately come to mind. One being the Bridgestone A/T Revo,and the other the Michelin Cross Terrain. The Revo is an all year tire and the Michelin could be unless you encounter a lot of ice or snow. I have a 4Runner and a Sequoia and I run Cross Terrains in the summer and use Bridgestone Blizzak DMZ3 in the winter. The Blizzaks are incredible on snow and ice. If I did not run snow tires, I would probably run the Revos all year.
  • cburescbures Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 RWD SR5-does anyone know how accurate the on board mileage computer is. Mine tells me I am getting 22mi/per gal. Just curious if I can count on the read out.
  • grnwtrsgrnwtrs Posts: 13
    Hi there:

    I am sure glad someone else is having this question. My display (HUD) or is it head down, says I am getting 21.7 mpg!!. My log book says, depending on trip, is 13.99 to 18.3.

    The 13.9 is city driving, including freeways if that is what you want to call them, and the 18.3 was a trip to Seattle WA from the San Francisco bay area. The car 4-runner sport edition (V8) was at 1500 miles, so the speed was kept under 70.

    Anyway I have 2 other vehicles to drive, so don't drive it that much, as I have only 8,500 miles total on it. Purchased 2/15/04

    Still and all what is wrong with the display?.
  • grnwtrsgrnwtrs Posts: 13
    Hi there:

    I have the 04 sport V-8 model. I asked myself the same qurestion. All the old aftermarket books do not come into the 20th century. Dealer books go for a "hun"
    and more. Vol 2 is the edition, according to my dealer, for the shadetree mechanic. The manual that came with my 04 tells me a lot of " changing various lamps, but nothing of oil changes, and where the filtter and plug are located.

    On the V-8 I had to remove the skidplate to get to the filter, and a plastic plate further back for the oilplug. Oil plug is tougfh to get to, and drain the oil. You will need a small diameter filer to squeeze up to capture the oil. By the way, I am not sure if you can use a larger capacity filter. That was what prompted me to get under the vehicle. Besides when all was said and done, the cost of the filter at the dealer was the same as my cost elsewhere. Nuts cant save a nickle nowadays.

    Fram has a gadget to replace the oil plug, and a screw on brass gadget to a 3-5 inch hose to drain in to a pan. My size is #3 for the V-8. Look ast the automotive stores to get a clearer picture. I don't plan to change again myself for a acouple of years. My dealer say he will do it instead.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    "afaik, EPA _calculates_ the MPG, not throu driving." Not true. The EPA rating is determined by driving the vehicle on a particular course. The course, however, is not all that representative of the real world. Most vehicles real-world mileage tends to be a bit greater than the city rating, but lower than the highway rating.

    As for the computer mileage display, mine is optimistic by several MPG. That was true of my previous car, a 2000 VW GTI, as well.
  • jeff193jeff193 Posts: 29
    So....i did a little off roading today..... maybe you guys can help me with something..

    First the switch next to the steering with the X in the middle whats that for?...

    Secondly..everytime like i go up some thing a curb or on a hill...the car first makes this KRRRRR sound like some metal grinding together...seems like its comming from the area where the race and brake pedals are??? any idea?

    Thirdle i backed up down an incline and the damn muffler fell of its clip...went to the toyota dealer...YOU wont beleive what the guy said..Firstly he said...that you should off road in that its more like a 4 wheel drive grocery getter...then he says if some one rests their foot on this it would fall off the clip...so bring it in on monday..

    Basically im posting to say be carefull with inclines..and please please tell me what the switch is...and what the metal clunking is ???

    Thanks
  • tcpoobtcpoob Posts: 30
    "First the switch next to the steering with the X in the middle whats that for?."

    center differential lock. don't engage it under normal driving conditions.
    when on, it locks the front and rear axle so they spin at the same rate.
    tihs may cause binding etc on roads with good traction.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    The EPA rating is determined by driving the vehicle on a particular course.

    EPA mileage tests (pdf file) are done on a dynamometer supposedly taking into account "real world driving conditions."

    tidester, host
  • sauriasauria Posts: 12
    I'l measure too -- what tires do you have?
  • rreeves7rreeves7 Posts: 1
    I purchase the Dueler A/T Revo's for my 2001 4Runner. I absolutely love them!!! They are quiet, handle exceptionally well and perform well in rain. I went one size up from OEM and have not had any issues. I'd highly recommend them.
  • gblgbl Posts: 5
    Sauria,

    I have the Bridgestone 265/65/R17's. Had the 4Runner on the highway for the first time this weekend. I was surprised to find the 2005 V8 engine running at 3000 rpms at 70 mph. Can you confirm that this is normal for the 2005 V8 engine from your experience?

    Thanks,

    GBL
  • tradscotttradscott Posts: 108
    Thanks for the input. I'd like to get something more aggressive than the OEM Bridgestone Dueler HT that I have. I had BF Goodrich All Terrain TAs on my previous vehicle and liked them, but realistically I do not need something quite that aggressive. I'll probably give the Revo's a try.

    I did notice that the Revos in 265/70R17 are less expensive than the 265/65R17. I wish Toyota had picked a more common size. After the vehicle gets a little older and I start using in mainly for backcountry skiing and climbing approaches, I'll definately step up in size and get the BF Goodriches or something similar.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 384
    Thanks zeetech for the post. sjohnson2 hasn't posted for a long time. This is great advice for any of us who have the same issue.
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Posts: 133
    I do not think that 3000 rpms at 70 mph is normal at all. I have a 2004 V8, and other than a bump in horsepower and torque, I do not know of any other differences in the drive train between the two model years. At 70mph, I'm only at 2000 rpm. Are you sure your 4runner is in overdrive??
  • gblgbl Posts: 5
    The 2005 V8 is supposed to be a 5 speed auto transmission, but I have not found an overdrive button. I have a 1990 Lexus LS400 that has an overdrive button so I do know what you are talking about. Where is your overdrive button?

    Thanks,

    GBL
  • tradscotttradscott Posts: 108
    I have a 2005 V6. It does not have an overdrive button. Overdrive is simply a gear with a 1:1 drive ratio through the transmission. I'm assuming your dash and gear selector is the same as in the V6. If so, just look at the dash and make sure that the little light that says D (if I remember correctly) is lit. If you have any of the other lights -- 4, 3, 2, or 1 -- lit, then you have shifted into one of these gears. I'd guess that you have shifted into 4th gear.
  • jaredmsdjaredmsd Posts: 127
    The grinding sound is the ABS system. It is used by the traction control system to keep the wheels from spinning. It helps in some situations, and hurts in others (sand especially). If you are in REALLY loose stuff like mud/deep-snow/sand then lock the diff (that X button) and all your traction control systems will be turned off. This will prevent the system from throttling down and breaking your momentum in situations where momentum is key (ie: sand). As noted above DO NOT lock the diff on dry pavement.

    BTW, don't listen to your dealer... I've offroaded in this thing many times. Works fine for me. If it was just a grocery getter, it wouldn't be a ladder frame.

    There are so many grocery getters that are available that it discusts me to see that serious truck lovers have little option anymore. I have an '03 sport and I'm so happy that I got it before the painted fenders and the stupid hack they call a third row seat. Get an explorer or a pilot if you want a third row. Sorry for the rant.
  • kheintz1kheintz1 Posts: 213
    With the vehicle running and your foot on the brake, look at the gear shift. Notice that the 4th and 5th gear settings are selected simply by toggling the gear shift "horizontally" either to the left (4th gear), or to the right (5th gear or Overdrive). On the other hand, lower gears (3rd, 2nd, and 1st gear) are selected by moving the gear shift "vertically", right?

    Automatic transmission vehicles which have steering-column mounted shift levers (such as the Ford Explorer), typically have the Overdrive on/off switch or button located at the tip of the shift lever. Earlier 4Runners with center-console mounted gear-shifts had the OD button mounted on the left side of the gear-shift grip. The new 4Runners (as noted above) don't have a "button" for OD on/off. Instead, they employ the leftright "toggling" mechanism described above.

    I'm quite happy with the toggling design in my '03 4Runner Limited-- I often drive with my right hand holding the shifter, and it's so effortless and ergonomic to be able to toggle back and forth between OD and 4th gear with just a slight motion of my right hand. That said, one drawback to this design is how easily a front passenger (especially children or a pet) could easily knock the gear-shift from right to left, accidentally sending you from 5th gear into 4th gear. Then again, pets should not be allowed in the front cabin, nor should small children.

    When riding with an older child or an adult sitting in the front passenger seat, their left knee or hand are most likely to bump the shifter from right to left. If a front passenger unbuckles, turns around and kneals on the front seat in order to reach into the back seat area, this is another opportunity for the gear-shift to be accidentally bumped from OD to 4th gear, or v v.
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Posts: 133
    Post 10655 pretty much explains it. I should have been more specific in my response....I did not mean that there is a button for overdrive....only that your gear selector should be in the highest gear while driving on the highway (this is the overdrive gear, but there is no specific button to press to be in this gear). If you are sure that you are in the highest gear, both by on dash display and looking at the gear selector, and you are still at 3000 rpms at 70mph....I think it is time to take it in to the dealership.....your gas mileage must really be suffering as well. Good luck, and sorry for any confusion!!
  • gblgbl Posts: 5
    My wife and I both sat down in the 4Runner yesterday and figured out that the shifter toggles back and forth between 4 and D. What a world of difference it makes. Thanks for all the feedback.

    GBL
  • godsgirlgodsgirl Posts: 1
    I will be purchasing a 4-Runner (05) 2 wd Limited next month, but am debating between the V6 and V8. I test drove both models about a month ago (at two different times), and only noticed a slight noice difference on excelleration. I would like to tow a small travel trailer or tent trailer, but wasn't sure what everyone's experience with or advice is on V6 vs. V8. The dealer told me to expect ~$1000 difference in price. Any problems with either model that I should be aware of or anticipating?? Thanks for any help :)
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 384
    I have the 2003 V6 4wd, but if you are towing anything I'd recommend the V8. The V6 will do the job, but the V8 will leave nothing to risk.
  • themanqthemanq Posts: 10
    Has anyone compared performance between the 2 V8 engines?
  • jqbombjqbomb Posts: 1
    I installed the ipod2car about 2 months ago. I think it's great. Installation was pretty easy, and the ipod2car box fit right behind the stereo in the dash. I snaked the cable behind the AC controls and out of the underside of the dash near the gas pedal and hold my ipod in a swiveling proclip holder mounted in the ac duct on to the right of the radio. Gimme your email and I'll send you pic if you want.
  • lazzarichlazzarich Posts: 37
    I have a 2005 V8 4WD with 4,000 miles on it. It has developed a leak at the Pinion Seal (per Toyota Dealer). According to them this is not under pressure and I can keep driving it till they obtain the part.

    Questions: Is this going to create a long term problem? and 2.) What would cause this to go. 3.) I was told by an aftermarket differential shop that there are several ways to repair this leak, and the correct way is a lenghty process - not sure how the dealer will approach it.
  • This vehicle should still be under warrantee. Correct it now so they don't tell you later that it's not going to be covered under warrantee.
  • Does anyone know exactly what type skid plates are mounted on the 4Runner? Gas tank? Radiator? Oil pan? Transfer case? Thanks Charlie
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