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Toyota 4Runner



  • Was wondering what the general consensus is about having the dealer do a tint job? The Limited 4Runner I ordered the other day doesn't have that option, so the dealer said they'd tint it when it came in for me. Isn't this a different kind of tint then I would get at the factory? Spray vs true tinted glass? Anyone have first-hand experience with this? Thanks in advance.
  • hello jjenkins...
    keep in mind this is just my 0.02 on the tints...

    DO NOT let you're dealer tint you're windows...
    no matter what they tell you, they're using the same stuff as the mom n' pop shop down the road, no matter what!

    i dont know if you've seen it or noticed it before, but taking a look on the dealers lots, you'll often see any car (not only 4runners) that have "tinted" windows from the dealer...this may very well be, but paying 300-400 dollars for some tint is a laughing matter!!!

    my best advice, drive you're car out of the dealer, and within the next few days, or whenever you see fit, find yourself a nice car audio/accessory shop, and about 80% of the time, those shops do tint jobs.
    have them tint you're car to you're liking..(my '03 Runner is limo tinted in the rear, and
    35% in the front..the MAX allowed by law down here in Texas) at most, it should cost you no more than $175-195..thats if you want the WHOLE vehicle done the price drops dramatically when you only do a part of the car.

    IMHO - Dealer tints are one of the biggest ways and easiest i might add, that dealers rip off their customers. you'll be happy with a car shop, and have an extra $200.00 in you're pocket!!
  • I appreciate the feedback. In my case, however, it's something they are throwing in for free basically. If I said that I didn't want it, it won't drop the price any. We were negotiating on a vehicle that was close to what I wanted but not exactly. The only things it didn't have were the Side Signal Mirrors and a Window Tint. So the price stayed the same and they agreed to add the tint and install the mirror upgrade (I was anxious to lock in a vehicle while the 0.0% financing was available).

    So basically, I could cancel it, but then I'd actually end up paying more to go have it done somewhere else. In all honesty, I'm more concerned with the quality then the $200 bucks. So if there isn't an advantage to having it done somewhere else, I guess I could let them do it. But if it is going to be of a lower quality then what others can do, then I'll just have them skip it.

    So quality-wise.. am I better off going somewhere else? If I had gotten a factory tint, would the glass have been different or is that a spray too?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    Chances are the dealer is just going to farm out the tint job to the accessory shop down the street anyway. The advantage of having it done at purchase is that you can look to the dealer if there's a warranty issue with the tint down the road.

    Steve, Host
  • vodgutvodgut Posts: 162
    I have an '03 4Runner V8, I believe manufactured 1/03. I've read on here that the towing capacity for those vehicles is 5000lbs. My owner's manual disagrees, saying it's 7000lbs. I know they upgraded the V8 hitches mid 2003 model year, didn't they? I took delivery at the end of Feb, '03. I'm towing a sub-5000lb load next weekend (my first towing experience) but in the future I may want to tow the combined weight of my Audi A4 and a rental U-Haul car trailer, which is a total of just over 5300lbs.

    So can I believe my owner's manual, and that my towing capacity is really 7000lbs? That would rule.

    I also read some people had problems with getting their early-on ball mounts to go in the Class III receiver. I had no problem whatsoever, worked like a charm. So maybe I do have the better setup?
  • I find it amazing that people are still purchasing this stink bomb. Enjoy the smell.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    Look at your hitch. There should be a yellow sticker on the hitch showing the capacity. When I was shopping for a 4Runner, I looked at the hitches and the build date. It appeared to me that trucks built through 4/2003 had the 5000 lb hitch and those built after 4/2003 had the 7000 lb hitch.

    I suspect that you have the 5000 lb hitch.
  • A while back there was some discussion about cutting off 1/4" of the end of the ball mount because it was hitting the spare tire, and people were not able to get the hitch pin all the way through the hole.

    I found that you can achieve the clearance, if you lower the spare tire just a bit and push the spare towards the front of the truck, while retracting it. Or, lower it, mount the hitch, and then retract the spare.
  • vodgutvodgut Posts: 162
    Interesting. I had no problem with mine, spare in place.....
  • jcla7jcla7 Posts: 18
    hotelseven, Many thanks for the info. Should help.

  • toyboxxtoyboxx Posts: 150
    jealous of my awesome 8 cyl. sport THAT DOES NOT STINK?
  • toyboxxtoyboxx Posts: 150
    Do they have this option for 4runners?
  • brestlebrestle Posts: 22
    About 10 months ago, my wife was on a road trip with the new '03 4Runner Limited and when she returned she informed me that the tailgate wasn't staying in the up position. She'd open it and it would fall halfway down. Upon tinkering, we realized that if the window is down, the tailgate would not stay up. Thought this was just a slight design flaw (didn't have it with my '96 4Runner).

    This past weekend was the first time we had the truck in cold conditions (10 to 20 degrees). This time the tailgate refused to stay open even with the window in the up position. Sure enough, when the afternoon hit and the temps raised to about 45 degrees the tailgate worked fine again. That night and the next morning, same issue. Cold outside = tailgate not staying open. I actually had to stick a ski pole between it and the bumper to keep it open.

    Has anyone heard of this problem? Better yet, do other people's tailgates stay open with the window down? I'm thinking my original assumption about the flawed design may be incorrect...maybe I have a defective tailgate. Thoughts?

  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    I'd guess that you need to replace the struts that hold open the tailgate -- it sounds like they've lost pressure. It should be an easy fix by the dealer.
  • kheintz1kheintz1 Posts: 213
    When I logged on to this forum tonight, I noticed that someone had posted a comment about the new 4Runner with the title "Garbage", implying that this vehicle is "garbage". The brief message that followed was quite bitter and said something to the effect of "enjoy the stink..." or something like that, undoubtedly referring to the "rotten egg" exhaust odor that some are unfortunately experiencing with the new 4Runner.

    Please note that my '03, V8 4Runner has nearly 9500 miles on it so far, and to date there've been only a FEW occasions when I detected only a FAINT sulfur odor coming from the exhaust, and those RARE occasions have always been in my garage, after shutting off the engine and exiting the truck. (I've yet to ever smell this odor in the cabin.) In fact, my truck's exhaust almost always has the usual and rather pleasant odor I would expect.

    So then, am I just lucky here? Maybe so. But then again, might there be something I'm doing (or not doing) that's helping to keep my truck's exhaust from reeking of sulfur?

    I routinely use high-octane (i.e., 91-93 octane) fuels from reliable name-brands such as Shell, Sunoco, and Chevron. Since I've yet to have a problem with this particular odor with my 4Runner, I have speculated in one or more of my previous postings as to whether this widely reported "rotten egg" exhaust smell complaint might be related to not only the overall QUALITY of the brand of fuel being used, but perhaps equally or even more importantly, whether it might also be somehow related the OCTANE rating of the fuel being used. So far, it seems my previous speculations regarding this matter have been largely ignored, and those who've responded have merely opined that unless engine knocking develops, using a premium high-octane fuel is surely unnecessary at best, and a waste of money at worst.

    After reading the "garbage" and "enjoy the stink" comments earlier tonight, I decided to do a bit more on-line digging on the this subject. Here's a link to a discussion about gasoline from Sunoco's web site: Pay close attention to Table 4 (especially), and you will see some interesting figures regarding the sulfur content of their fuels, with respect to octane rating. In brief, a perusal of this data would seem to indicate that their 93/94 octane fuels are reported to have a >50% reduction in sulfur content (measured in parts-per-million) when compared to their 87 octane fuels. A further examination of this data would seem to suggest that at least for Sunoco fuels, the sulfur content may be (roughly) inversely related to octane rating. That is, the LOWER the octane rating, the HIGHER the sulfur content?? While I could not find similar on-line data from Shell or Chevron, I can't help but wonder if the Sunoco data might well be generalizable to gasoline coming from many refineries?

    For those who would scoff at Toyota's recommendation to use high-octane fuel in the 4Runner unless knocking develops, Chevron's web site had this to say (A quote from this last link is as follows: "Your car's octane requirements are mainly determined by its basic design. In addition, variations in engines due to manufacturing tolerances can cause cars of the same model to require a different octane of several numbers. Also, as a new car is driven, its octane requirement can increase because of the buildup of combustion chamber deposits. This continues until a stable level is reached, typically after about 15,000 miles. The stabilized octane requirement may be 3-6 numbers higher than when the car was new. Premium or midgrade fuel may be advisable to prevent knock..."

    In my opinion, it would make no marketing sense for Toyota to recommend more costly high-octane fuels if they didn't believe it would necessarily result in the best long term performance of the engines in question. I welcome your thoughts here.
  • coranchercorancher Posts: 232
    vodgut, you can probably tell which capacity hitch you have just by kneeling down and examining the underside of the receiver. I wrote a more detailed comparison a while back, but the short answer is that the receiver of the lighter hitch is bolted to the rear frame crossmember by two bolts, while the heavier hitch (the one on the newer V8s) has a receiver which is attached to a cross bar. This cross bar is bolted to the fore/aft frame rails on each side.

    It looked to me like you could easily buy the heavier hitch and swap out the lighter one. I think there was even a post from someone in Canada who had bought the heaver hitch from Toyota and done just that. I don't know if the heaver hitch receiver mount is the only difference between the 5000 lb. and 7000+ lb. towing ratings, but I wouldn't be surprised.
  • vodgutvodgut Posts: 162
    corancher - I'd love to see pics of the two. I tried looking for the sticker, but nothing's there. The owner's manual (which also states that my towing capacity is 7000lbs) states there's a sticker in the driver's door that lists stuff about towing, but it only had GVWR numbers, nothing about towing.

    Of course, I could probably always take pics of the underside of my hitch and post them here. I'll probably do that if it's inconclusive. If worse comes to worse and I want to tow more than 5000lbs, I suppose I could always contact Toyota directly with my VIN....hopefully they'd know.

    Thanks everyone.
  • 4wlow4wlow Posts: 1
    I have been doing alot of test drives and researching the 4th gen toyo. The out come was 04' sport 4W V8.I have read all the concerns about the wheel shake and the most important sulfer problems,Or the cold effecting any doors,hatches,or motor,With 900 miles on her,no problems.Only 100 more miles to go until breakinn period is finished,I'm eager to see what she can do here in the northeast.My opinion,this is the best information boad for toyo. Thanks for listining.
  • 69mach169mach1 Posts: 60
    Hotel7, do you know where the JBL amp is in your 4Runner? Is it a part of the radio/CD/tape unit or is it separate and installed somewhere else?

    It looks like a big job to remove the JBL unit from the dash, so I was hoping the amp was in a more accessible location. Thanks for any input.

    PS. I've had absolutely no sulfer smell since I purchased the vehicle, I use 87 octane fuel, which in Colorado is mid grade, regular is 85 octane.
  • Recently I test drove both a 4R Limited and a Lexus GX 470 (its upscale cousin). Both hanfled similarly but the GX felt more spacious inside, When I checked the dimensions and specifications they were nearly identical. Anyone have an idea what may be happening here.

    Sulfer smell; I have a 93 Grand Cherokee in which I use premium (91\92) gas, because performance and mileage are better with premium. Rarely, I will get a sulfer smell. It comes and goes unrelated to anything I can figure out. My assumption is that it has to do with the gasoline used. I used to use exclusively Texaco, now Shell; same station but merger forced them to change. Perhaps slightly different formulations or whatever. It also seemed to happen more when going uphill. Hope this may provide some clues.
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