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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

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  • it has about 100,500 miles now. its a 2.2 liter L4, vortec 2200.
    ...I'll be the first to admit, I don't know much under the hood. I can do some basic stuff myself, but I'm getting frustrated with taking it to the shop and them saying nothing is wrong when I know full good and well, SOMETHING is wrong.
    was planning on a good tune up, I think the last one was at 75,000 miles.
    Actually, I was reffering to farenheit, but I neglected to say with wind chill factored in, so I'm not sure the actual air temp.
    The truck will typically crank, it just won't always fire. There has been a couple times where it just completely won't do anything. One of those times was when the interplanetary gear died.
    Nothing comes up when they run a diagnostic scan so the chevy dealer in town won't believe me when I complain it won't start half the time. My old mechanic back in North Dakota knew something was wrong, but couldn't figure it out. which is what led me here, so I can attempt to figure out what it is and see if I can get one of the other local mechanics to believe me. I figure if I sound knowledgeable maybe they will take me seriously. Thank you to those that have already tried helping and to anyone else that might help!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    OK, the 2.2 does have ignition wires to the spark plugs. When there is a damp, wet start problem that is the first items I replace. Go with new spark plugs too. Use the 41-948 the engine came from the factory with, the electronic module does not get along very well with other plugs, a resistance thing.
    I also have a 99 with a 2.2 but only 53K, don't drive it much, second vehicle.
  • scgator1scgator1 Posts: 1
    I sprayed some carb cleaner into and around the carb on my 83 s10 2.8. Now it won't start. Thought it may have flooded but two hours later it still doesn't want to start. Any suggestions? Also how the heck do you get the fuel filter off? It seems nearly impossible to get a wrench on the bolt to turn it. Help Me please.

    Ty
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Go to Wal-mart and get some starting fluid (either). If your problem was caused by the carb cleaner the starting fluid should help get you back on track. ;)
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    my truck will not start without starting fluid.once it starts it runs fine.i have a vortex v6.somebody please help.The fuel pump is fine.
  • adrian10adrian10 Posts: 1
    Went to start my S10 several weeks ago after a few mths sit up. Stearted then died I quickly tried to restart and didn't here the fuel pump make it's usual pre start noise. Looked for a fuse blown. Checked them all (didn't know if the fuel pump had one or where it was) All looked good. Replaced the fuel pump nothing. Today I bought a fuel pump relay nothing. Anybody ever have this problem or know a fix?? Charged the battery turns over good but no fuel
    1985 S10 PU 2.5 FI
    Thamks
  • scottlakescottlake Posts: 1
    I cannot for the life of me find the starter in my 2000 Chevy S-10 its an automatic with a 2.2 Liter engine. We were told it was behind the passenger front tire but after looking top and bottom we wern't able to find it. I have my replacement Starter already but I havn't had to deal wiht the starter before. can you help me figure out where it is?
  • Similar problem, not solved yet. And it happened once last year (this truck sits a lot) that it would not start, and then worked days later for no apparent reason.
    1990 S10 4x4 4.3litre.
    Turned key on ... fuel pump ran. Engaged starter, engine turned fine, didn't catch. Turned key off and back on ... fuel pump ran. Hit gas pedal, turned engine over ... engine ran well for about 3 seconds then stopped dead. Turned key off and back on ... no fuel pump running. Connected a jumper straight to the fuel pump ... pump ran. Turned engine over ... no run. Added ether ... it ran as long as the ether lasted. With jumper, checked gas pressure at tank outlet (good), and at throttle body (good). Changed air valve assembly (with injectors) for a spare ... no difference, and engine still runs fine on ether.
    It seems that the fuel pump and the injectors are not getting any electricity. Is there a particular sensor that would govern that? Would that kind of sensor show up on a code reader?
    Thanks.
  • I had the similar problem, started last may, tried to fix since this without results but yesterday, I tried a new distributor module ... looks like it solved the problem !!
    I will tried to start it for a certain period to verify that, even cold starting than hot starting, but it seems to be ok !!!
  • I have a 1997 GMC Sonoma with the 4.3L Vortec V6. Owned it for about two years with no problems (180 000kms). About 2 months ago, I went to start it in the morning to go to work and it wouldn't go. It would turn over but not start. After about half an hour of screwing around, adding starter fluid etc., it finally went. Ran rough for a few minutes, but then fine all day. Replaced all the filters that night as they were due to be changed. A few days later, same thing. No starter fluid this time, just alternated holding it floored and not, took about 10 minutes to start, ran rough for a while then fine. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Ran fine for a week or so, then problem returned. This time I couldn't get it to go to save my life. I thought because it only happens in the morning that maybe condensation was the problem (it starts after sitting all day at work and it had rained heavily the night before). Checked all the electrical connections I could easily access and they all looked clean and dry. Plugged in the block heater and ran a hair drier on the distributor for half an hour, then it started first crank and ran great. Next time it happens I will only use the block heater and see if that works. Any ideas? It seems to me some sensor is telling it not to fire, but not sure.
  • I Have a 1999 Chevy S10 4.3 Vortec. I am having a problem starting the truck when it sits for a while. It will crank over for several minutes. Once it starts and i run it, it will start all day with no issues. It only happens when it sits over night. The fuel pump turns on and has been replaced. The plugs, wires, and cap all have been done. Tried a new battery. Had hours of diagnostics done and have gotten nowhere. I just dont get why it is only when it sits. Its driving me crazy.

    Any Ideas?
  • I have the same problem in a 98 Jimmy with 4.3 engine. I have gone thru distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires. I now think it is the ignition switch because as I rock key in switch while turning over it starts right away but then misses for a few minutes when the accelerating until the engine is warm. Runs fine while at idle. I will be watching for any ideas fromothers.
  • i have a 1988 Chevy s10 2.8 2wd i cant get it to fire over i had done a transmission in it about 3weeks before she stopped i did cap rotor wires plugs and fuel pump and the egr but before i did that i was getting fire out the carburetor got a timing light she was dead on the money compression test all were at about 146-150 at this point i don't no what more it can be after changing everything I'm not getting fire out the carburetor its just not kicking over now the fuel is going down into the carburetor i did a o2 sensor to night and still have nothing not sure what more it can be
  • so i changed the spark plugs to what my 2 haynes books say, also with what i had found online. and from 5 different sources, the firing orders are all the same for my '85 GMC S15 Sierra Classic. i had changed spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. and had put the new wires on in the firing order that i was repeatedly told was the right way. but now it just doesn't want to fire.

    i had sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb to clean it out while i changed oil, oil filter, air filter, rotated the tires, etc. but i think i had either sprayed too much into the barrels to give it that rough turn over sound followed by backfire, or i now have it in the wrong firing order.

    i had taken the other cap off to change it out, but it never occurred to me to note which wires were where.

    since ran like a dream before. now i need help.
  • i have an '85 GMC S15 Sierra Classic 2.8L V6 (Carb)

    ---edit---
    *Note: this is the last place i went to find the firing order for my truck.

    link title - Engine Firing Orders: 1985

    are these right?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    That's the order. Next time replace the wires one at a time.
    You need to get #1 cylinder on compression stroke on timing mark, then see if the rotor points to the #1 plug wire. Some one may have removed the dist and timed it out of normal sequence.
  • thanks. i was terribly tired from work 2 double shifts on daylight savings time before i started wahooing cables the other day.

    anyways, just went back out, detached the cables from the distributor, took the dist back off to verify the #1 (underneath the cap, there is 1 number that tells you which is for the #1). i also made sure the rotor was hitting the cap also. then i plugged each one in numerical sequence to the cap, to make sure that i had it right.

    after i had it all screwed down, plugged up (in my frustration yesterday, i had switched #2 and #6 on dist without verifying), i gave it a try.

    there was a spray that came from my carb. it smelt like the cleaner i had sprayed in there. i think i have flooded the carb with cleaner.

    after a few more tries and sprays, i decided to give it a rest for a few before i go back out there. because it sounds like it wants to turn, but hesitant because of the cleaner.

    i'll be back with an update on how it goes.
  • i found the problem.

    the person who worked on my timing chain in 2001 had ended up turning it out 180. so where 3 would be (on the dist) is where #6 is. and where 4 would be is where #1 is.

    i don't know quiet that much about the timing chain to do it myself, but it runs. and seems to be working in that order. it has been in that order for the last 6 years.

    when i have time and a place to put it, i will definitely look at changing it back to factory specs.

    but, that is a project for a different time.

    either way, thanks for the help. i think i have learned alot about spark plug wires and the distributor within the last couple of days.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    Glad you got it going.
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