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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

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  • Ok, I have V6 in my 2000gmc sonoma that will not crank when attempting to start. The dash lights up, under the dash clicks(normal sounds) are there, under the fuse box relays click as well but no sound at all coming from solenoid or starter. This happened twice before in recent weeks, after long attempts at jump starting it did start like nothing was wrong, however this third time it will not crank. I replaced the battery, no fix. I really believe its a bad +battery cable, there is more than one wire on the + side so its possible, the one looks bad and I am going to replace it...Also, where is the starter on the v6 4.3.any help at all would be appreciated
  • hwg101hwg101 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my ’97 S10 V6 2WD. The truck has 185,000 miles on it. If it sits for more that 48 hours, there is a very good chance that it will not start. Then it will magically start on the first try after 3 or 4 days. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor have about 85,000 miles on them. I am curious: Have you determined the cause of your truck’s starting problem?
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    On my truck it turned out to be the fuel pump.It would start with starter fluid and i could drive all over town,but the minute i shut it off it would not start.A new fuel pump has seemed to fix the problem.You should be getting at least 60 lbs. of pressure from the pump to the intake.Now i have a dead battery so this is another matter.Its been one thing after another with this truck...Oh well good luck.
  • i replaced my fuel pump about 15000 miles ago with an oem ac delco pump. i left the fuel pressure gauge on and i have pressure. since my post i have also replaced my coil pack and cleaned the mass air flow sensor still to no avail. starter fluid does not help either.
  • My 1998 s-10 has 211,897 miles on it! I'm having the same problem as you all describe (random no-start), and here is what I know so far.

    My problem only coincidentaly occurred after I had it serviced for an engine light on and poor idling. They checked/"cleaned" the EGR valve (said it may have been sticking open - which you'll read causes poor idle or even failure to start), replaced the fuel filter (said it was extremely clogged). The truck immediately ran great, but the next day I experienced my first "no-start".

    When we experience the no-start, some of us do two things: 1) keep trying until we eventually wear the battery down, at which point calling for a jump start which somethimes gets the truck going, and thus leads us to mistakenly think its a battery power issue, or 2) keep trying until we flood the engine, which is when you smell raw fuel and it takes anywhere from 1/2 hour to a couple days later when you try to start it and it gets going like no problem.

    Anyway, I took it back to the shop that week and they checked the fuel pressure (apparently was at 36psi), so a new fuel pump was put in. Then it started running poorly again(maybe the EGR that I did not replace), but the truck started alright for about a week, until this morning. After trying to start it a few times in about 10min span, i finally let it sit for about 25mins, and then attempted again to start it. This time, after two extended attempts she finally wound up and caught - just as the Road Service Guy was pulling up to attempt a jump start.

    I haven't figured it out yet, but this weekend I'm going to put in a new set of spark plug wires. A few times in the past the spark plug wire change has done the trick when I had poor idle and performance. As it was explained to me, they get crappy over time - especially the cheaper ones - and what happens is they become more prone to taking on moisture. This is why a warm vehicle (or one thats only sat a few hours) starts right up - because the wires are nice and dry and delivering full power spark. You let it sit a couple of days and the suck in the humidity and are cold and you have trouble starting on the first attempt - and then you end up in situation #1 or #2 i described above.

    I'll let you all know if it works.
  • History of problem
    Two weeks ago my service engine light started flashing at a rapid pace. The engine started acting like it was fuel starved or not getting proper spark. I managed to limp home by taking automatic out of gear at stop lights and keeping foot on gas to keep revs up. When I got home I turned engine off -tried to restart--would not start-would crank but NO start.

    Had it towed to local garage-they said their code scanner could not get ECM box to work or could not get codes. Replace ECM box with new one-still same thing. Checked fuel pressure-OK-checked spark to plugs -OK-checkd voltage to injectors-not ok no voltage at all.

    Have tried everything--this 4.3 V6 does not have a crankshaft sensor --has distributor--does anyone have any idea at all what the problem is???

    thanking all in advance
    Mike :sick:

    http://theconservativearmyforumreview.podomatic.com/
  • I have a 2000 S-10 , 4.3l. 135000mi. Bought this truck new, about 3 years ago it wouldnt start. Turn the key and just a click. Thought it was a bad battery, replaced it and still no start. All the dash lights worked, normal buzzers and sounds, but when you turn the key you just get a click. Starter never even tried to engage. Took it to my mechanic and he said it was a small wire that was loose, and it started fine from then on. He never showed me this wire. Well now its doing this again. Again, I replaced the battery, also have replaced the starter. The fuel pump was replaced 14 months ago. My old mechanic is gone now, so I cant ask him. The local repair shop says he is finding nothing wrong, and no computer codes showing anything. HELP !!!!!!!
  • I FINALLY SOLVED MY SAME EXACT PROBLEM. I had someone look at the coil at night while I started the engine. He noticed an arching at the coil. Upon removal of the coil I found white electrical burning marks at the coil frame on the side. Replaced coil and every thing fine now. On moist days the coil would short to its frame. As the engine heated up the moisture path would evaporate and them would run fine. HYope this helps.
  • I have a 2000 gmc sonoma pick up. At times it will not start. I get absolutly nothing. No click, no lights, no sounds, nothing. It won't start with a jump, still nothing. I have a new battery and starter. But, if I disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and then reconnect it, it stars right up everytime. Any ideas?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    When you have a no start, check with a 12 volt test light to see where you have lost it. A test light is better than DVOM, it puts a load on the circuit. Check the battery cables for corrosion, could be a bad positive cable.
  • Thanks for the quick reply. When I have no start there is no juice coming to the battery. The minute I disconnect the positive cable and reconnect it I have juice and the truck starts right up. Battery cables are clean and free from corosion.
  • Hi there is a sevice bulletin 00-06-04-003B rought idle/service engine soon light.
    unstick and clean central sequential fuel injection poppet valves. it is covered under warranty for 10 years or 200,000 miles. i kept getting code po300 and this fixed it.
    hope this will help someone.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Is your key the type that has the security chip on it. I just had a go around with the same symptoms your having with another GM that turned out to be the key chip.
  • The truck does not have a rermote door opener. Believe me this is really strange. No power at all, then, disconnect the hot battery cable and reconnect it and it stars with no trouble at all, all kinds of juice.
  • I hope one of you gearheads out there can help me. My 2.2l w/auto 96 S10 with 280K will suddenly die on me. I was traveling at about 100K per hour when it was like someone turned the key off. The speedo went to 0, and I could hear the relays in the glove box ticking away. I coasted to a stop, and I could hear the relays clicking. The speedo seems to be jumping at about the same rate. By process of elimination, it was the most left relay that was clicking. The check engine light also flickered on and off. Turned the key off and on a few times, and the clicking continued. Turned it off for 10 mins, no clicking , tried to start, and it ran as if nothing was wrong. No check engine light. Very interminit, sometimes twice a day, sometimes nothing for 2 weeks. Seems to be better when weather is cold. No change if tank is near full or near empty. Sometimes the truck will not start if sitting for a few hours, but will go after a few hours. Have had it in the shop several times, but no luck. Don't know if it's related, but I have an ABS light on. Could this issue be caused by an ABS speed sensor? Does this truck have a speed sensor? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give. I'm happy my wife isn't pregnet and we had to depend on this truck.
  • I have just recently replaced my intake gaskets, my engine had "puked" mixing the oil and coolant. after i replaced it and alllowed the sealant to sit for over 24hr , i had changed the oil., and drained the radiator.
    now.
    it wont start. It cranks over has gas, spark, . i cleaned the spark plug holes out ( removed all plugs and turned over a couple of times spitting everything into rags), and allowed to sit for a couple hours b4 placeing new plugs in. i had to turn the rotar on the distributor 180 out cuz it was poofing through the intake, after the 180 out fixed that. but still same situation, the battery is good getting 14-15v has been on a charger most the time to keep it charged.
    basically, I have spark, fuel, and no start, i have also tried using starting fluid as well to no avail,was putting smoke out the exhaust a few times while cranking, i am assuming this has no relation to my actual problem. and to top it all off im in the middle of getting ready to move.
  • Here is my update. It has been about a month since I replaced the wires (one week after the fuel pump replacement), and its been fine since. I strongly recommend anyone having random starting problems to replace the spark plug wires first. Use the best set that the auto store sells, which are usually only in the $20 range. This is one of the least expensive ways to take a first step at solving your starting problem.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    When you get #1 TDC on the compression stroke is the rotor pointing to #1 on the distributor cap? How many miles does it have on it.
  • I thought this would be something kind of easy. There is no response at all, nothing, no click, no lights no juice to the battery, nothing. Then, disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and reconnect it and like magic it starts right up. It does not do this all the time and with no particular pattern. I can't have the only Sonoma that this has ever happened to?
  • I am having trouble with my 97 GMC sonoma 4.3L V6. It is not getting any fire to the coil. I have replaced the coil, distributor, cap, button, pickup, plugs and wires, crank sensor, coolant temp sensor, and swapped out computer. Still no fire but it will turn over. Battery is good. Friend of mine hooked it up to a computer and its not reading any codes! What the heck can the problem be. I would really appreciate any advice because I am out of ideas! Oh and by the way when the truck broke down it backfired and blew out the top of a flowmaster!!!

    Thanks in advance for any advise!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    You never mentioned ignition module.
  • I have a 96 S-10 4x4 4.3l vin code W. I'm not getting spark, replaced spark plugs,
    wires, cap, button, ignition mod under button, coil, and coil wire. Is there a crank
    sensor that I'm not aware of? Could the ECM be at fault?
  • The old 350 V-8's had a problem with the starter bushings in the bell housing tightening up when the engine got warm..... solution,.... change starter bushings..
  • dbruckerdbrucker Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Chevy s-10 with a 2.2 4 cylinder that won't start until I poor fuel into the throttle body and it stays running after that.

    Fuel pressure while cranking is 42 and goes to 45 on start up.

    While it is running the brake light is on and it idles at half throttle.

    All ideas are appreciated.
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    I had the same problem with my 92 GMC Sonoma.I changed the fuel pump and it fixed it.Should be around 55 to 60 pds.of pressure when starting.As far as your brake light it may be a sign one pad is worn.Dont know about the idle problem tho.Hope that helps.
  • dbruckerdbrucker Posts: 3
    A tech told me that 35 to 40 would work and it is new pump anyway. I even tried pulling it thinking that maybe it was the key switch but it didn't start that way either.

    Thanks
  • So I went out to start my truck the other day, and it cranked over and started but immediatly died. Tried a few other times and nothing, so I had it towed home.... yeah im a do it yourself-er. Then I noticed my gauges also werent working, and only the battery light came on, no service engine soon etc. So I replaced the alternator, thinking maybe the stereo drained it, didnt do the trick. Well I gave up for the night, and got back on it the next day, literally did nothing and for some reason it fired right up and i drove it around to make sure it was ok. Brought it back home turned it off, started it again, with no problems. Well today when I went out to start it, back at square one..... only this time, when the fuel pump whined it made a hideous noise like sucking air from either under the hood or the pump itself.... maybe both.... but if it was just the fuel pump.... the gauges would still be working and I am at my whits end..... anyone have any advice? tips? thanks in advance :mad:
  • I have a 95 s-10 2.2 4cyl, always ran fine. The other day out of the blue, the engine died, for no aparent reason. Now it won't start, checked all the easy stuff, spins over fine but no start. Has good batt, alt, and all gauges seems to be normal. Didn't find any blown fuses, what to do next...niterider
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    You might check the fuel pump.It should be pushing around 50 to 65 psi.If not time to change it.Good luck
  • My dad parked his 02 Sonoma after it ran fine. Tried to crank it that night, and it would turn over but refused to crank. Today I checked with a spark tester and we were getting the light on when the plug would fire, but it seemed somewhat dim (maybe just me, can't recall how bright it should be). Checked fuel pump...had good pressure. Chjecked fuel filter and seemed clogged/restrictive. Bought another one, still won't crank. Checked exhaust...no problems there.
    Crazy thing is while it's turning over, it seems every now and then to 'bog' like something's mechanically holding the crankshaft back.....then releases and bogs again. Even with my Ranger next to it running with jumper cables keeping his battery up. We finally tried cranking it so much that smoke rolled out of the starter motor.
    My question is.....is it the starter doing all this, or did we maybe burn the starter up due to an underlying problem? We took Serp belt off and checked all pulleys and turned motor over with just the crank being turned and it still bogs. Anyone got any ideas?............it'll be Monday or so before he gets the new starter. I just wonder what it could be if it still won't crank. Thanks. :lemon: ?
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