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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems



  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    You never mentioned ignition module.
  • I have a 96 S-10 4x4 4.3l vin code W. I'm not getting spark, replaced spark plugs,
    wires, cap, button, ignition mod under button, coil, and coil wire. Is there a crank
    sensor that I'm not aware of? Could the ECM be at fault?
  • The old 350 V-8's had a problem with the starter bushings in the bell housing tightening up when the engine got warm..... solution,.... change starter bushings..
  • dbruckerdbrucker Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Chevy s-10 with a 2.2 4 cylinder that won't start until I poor fuel into the throttle body and it stays running after that.

    Fuel pressure while cranking is 42 and goes to 45 on start up.

    While it is running the brake light is on and it idles at half throttle.

    All ideas are appreciated.
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    I had the same problem with my 92 GMC Sonoma.I changed the fuel pump and it fixed it.Should be around 55 to 60 pds.of pressure when starting.As far as your brake light it may be a sign one pad is worn.Dont know about the idle problem tho.Hope that helps.
  • dbruckerdbrucker Posts: 3
    A tech told me that 35 to 40 would work and it is new pump anyway. I even tried pulling it thinking that maybe it was the key switch but it didn't start that way either.

  • So I went out to start my truck the other day, and it cranked over and started but immediatly died. Tried a few other times and nothing, so I had it towed home.... yeah im a do it yourself-er. Then I noticed my gauges also werent working, and only the battery light came on, no service engine soon etc. So I replaced the alternator, thinking maybe the stereo drained it, didnt do the trick. Well I gave up for the night, and got back on it the next day, literally did nothing and for some reason it fired right up and i drove it around to make sure it was ok. Brought it back home turned it off, started it again, with no problems. Well today when I went out to start it, back at square one..... only this time, when the fuel pump whined it made a hideous noise like sucking air from either under the hood or the pump itself.... maybe both.... but if it was just the fuel pump.... the gauges would still be working and I am at my whits end..... anyone have any advice? tips? thanks in advance :mad:
  • I have a 95 s-10 2.2 4cyl, always ran fine. The other day out of the blue, the engine died, for no aparent reason. Now it won't start, checked all the easy stuff, spins over fine but no start. Has good batt, alt, and all gauges seems to be normal. Didn't find any blown fuses, what to do next...niterider
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    You might check the fuel pump.It should be pushing around 50 to 65 psi.If not time to change it.Good luck
  • My dad parked his 02 Sonoma after it ran fine. Tried to crank it that night, and it would turn over but refused to crank. Today I checked with a spark tester and we were getting the light on when the plug would fire, but it seemed somewhat dim (maybe just me, can't recall how bright it should be). Checked fuel pump...had good pressure. Chjecked fuel filter and seemed clogged/restrictive. Bought another one, still won't crank. Checked problems there.
    Crazy thing is while it's turning over, it seems every now and then to 'bog' like something's mechanically holding the crankshaft back.....then releases and bogs again. Even with my Ranger next to it running with jumper cables keeping his battery up. We finally tried cranking it so much that smoke rolled out of the starter motor.
    My question it the starter doing all this, or did we maybe burn the starter up due to an underlying problem? We took Serp belt off and checked all pulleys and turned motor over with just the crank being turned and it still bogs. Anyone got any ideas?'ll be Monday or so before he gets the new starter. I just wonder what it could be if it still won't crank. Thanks. :lemon: ?
  • Pressure is right at 60psi. Strange, everything checks out......yet when it's turning over periodically it stops for a sec, then turns over repeatedly again. I can't figure out what's causing the occassional snag. We removed the serpentine and tried and got the same thing. All other pulleys were like new. Crank and starter going it alone and still something acted like it was trying to stop it. I'm kinda lost on this deal........ :confuse:
  • dunc2dunc2 Posts: 1
    I have tried for about 4 weeks to get my 1991 sonoma 2.5 going. I lent it to a friend who ran it out of gas. It 's fuel injected so I was not happy to hear that this happened. I have pulled the distributor changed the ignition module, throttle position sensor, O 2 sensor, fuel injector, checked all fuel lines. The only thing left is the fuel pump which is only 1 year old I just put it in. Can it lose pressure from being run out of gas? I put more than 1/2 a tank in to make sure that was not the problem. And if some one pours gas on the fuel injector it will run long enough to burn the gas they pour on it. Help I am at my wits end. And out of money!!!!!!!!
  • Any more ideas?..............Anyone?...........I'm lost too
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    You already proved it's a fuel problem. Do you hear the pump run for 2 seconds with key on run?
    Try to start it and at the same time have some one hit the bottom of the tank below the fuel pump with a mallet or piece of 2X4, see if it starts.
  • Mine isn't a fuel problem, lol. I posted before the one about the loss of fuel pressure. Then when I asked for other ideas I ended up under someone else's post...................................... Don't know what kinda problem I got
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    Ya, clicked on the wrong one.
  • tony78tony78 Posts: 16
    Interesting story, 1st thing to remember is to never jump start a car that has a computer or several computers that operate different systems, the proper way to jump start a comp controlled car is to disconnect the pos/neg cables,then charge the battery, preferably with a trickle charger if the battery is really low (checked with a volt/ohm meter first). The biggest problem with jump starting is that $en$ative and expen$ive electronic systems don't really like to get hit with a voltage spike. As for the starter the maximum time it should spin is about 15 seconds with a 3 to 5 minute cool down time between each cycle, the cycle time is variable as it depends on ambient/radiated temperature (heatsoak). Spark can be tested with GM tool ST-125 (looks like a spark plug with an alligator clip attached) blue spark=good, yellow=weak ignition, as for checking the ignition system follow in this order : plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, igntion module, coil. Hope this helps.
  • tony78tony78 Posts: 16
    oops! refer to forest gump, it happens.
  • tony78tony78 Posts: 16
    The possible reason the truck wouldn't start after your friend (?) ran it dry was because the fuel lines had air in them, back in the day we called that ' vapor lock' , try bleeding the air from the fuel line, the shop does this at the point where the fuel inlet line connects to the pressure regulator fuel rail assembly, or where the fuel line connects to the throttle body, this can be accomplished by using a vacuum pump (snap-on tools # YA 4000A, or equivalent). caution a flash fire can result if you try and loosen line while engine is cranked, wrong way to bleed air.
  • tony78tony78 Posts: 16
    A. volt/ohm meter
    B. test light
    C. compression guage
    D. vacuum pump/guage
    E. torque wrench
    F. screw drivers/phillips/standard/torx
    G.socket set /metric/english/ 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive
    H. wrenchs /box/open end/crow foot
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