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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

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  • REPLACE YOUR FUEL FILTER. I DID THE SAME THING AND IT TOOK ME FOREVER TO FIGURE IT OUT. WHEN YOU RUN IT OUT OF GAS YOU SUCK ALL THE CRAP IN THE BOTTOM OF YOUR TANK INTO THE LINE. THAT GOES INTO YOUR FILTER AND CLOGS IT UP SO YOUR TANK IS HALF FULL BUT YOU GET NO GAS TO THE RAILS. SEE IF THAT WORKS.

    TOM
  • See my situation would the fuel filter be the cause?
    Situation, while driving the security light will come on, the fuel gauge will move to empty and the battery light will come on. This occurs randomly. after a while the gas gauge and battery light will go back to normal, but the security light will stay on for a while then go off.

    Also it will not start all the time, gmc nor mechanic cannot determine why. Last check there where no error codes but they thought it was a corroded ground cable. That did not correct the problem. 4 years and no one can help.
  • I have a 2001 S10 4 cylinder. 130,000 miles and burns almost no oil. On returning from a recent trip (3000 miles) The engine began misfireing terribly when cold.

    When I start it after it has sat awhile, it runs incredibly rough - sounds like its hitting on 1 or 2 cylinders only - barely enough power to get out of the driveway. After limping along like this for a few hundred yards it begins to smooth out and after a mile or so - it runs perfectly with no stumbling or misfireing. If I stop and restart while its still warm - runs like a dream.

    I was getting a "misfire on cylinder 2 code. I replaced the plugs and have not had another code, but still have the problem described above.

    Thanks for any help y'all can offer
  • I have same problem what did you do to fix this
    ksbast@shaw.ca
  • For my problem - a change of plugwires cured it completely.

    Bud
  • hi there

    done that did not work
    thank you for the reply
  • My husbands truck has had many problems within the last month. First one to arise was that the digital gear selection display and odometer display just below the speedo went out. I later found out that the display does work when the key is in either the position right between LOCK and RUN or during cranking when the key is in the START position (the odometer is still functioning and acurate, just no display). Figured it would just be a nuisance. A week later, the fuel qty. gauge stopped working as well as the "low fuel" dummy light (my husband found that one out the hard way). Next day or so went the engine temp gauge. Then the stereo started cutting in and out, but that one has since stopped happening. Then today when my husband was on his way home from work, he said that the Air Condition stopped working. As he was driving down our street, he said that it was running really poorly and finally died just as he pulled into the driveway. Not sure how long afterward, but he tried to start it, and it started just fine. Drive about 2 feet, and then runs bad and quits. Then restarts just fine. I started messing around with it for a while, doing the ol' wiggle test with the ignition switch and key, the steering column itself, the tilt, turning left and right, pounding on various places on the dash, etc....wouldn't fail. Grabbed his key instead of mine to see if the "security" feature was killing fuel...nope. Then one more start, and it would barely run. Seemed to me as if the computer had no idea where the crank was and it was getting the spark and everything all wrong. I didn't try the throttle at all because it sounded like it may have been detonating a little...so I shut it down and it continued to try to run for almost 3 seconds after I turned the key off. Then I started it again immediately, and it started and ran perfect. I was able to duplicate this several times with perfectly good starts and runs inbetween. Hmmm, when it was running good, I sat there and listened to it, and a couple of times for a few seconds, I thought I may have heard a slight knock, then it would go away. After shutting it down I heard that infamous gurgling noise. Checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Filled it up and found that the radiator probably needs to be flushed (reservoir level did not go down, but up). Remember...no engine temp indication inside. I am at a complete loss. I don't know it this overheating problem is related to the starting problem, or the starting problem to the overheating problem, if we have a computer problem, if we have one problem leading to the rest of the problems or if we just have a whole family of gremlins living under the hood. Please HELP!!
  • The security feature is meant to kill power to the fuel system if you try to start the engine without a valid key in the ignition (aka a theif jamming a screwdriver into your ignition). Had anyone tried to steal your truck before or maybe your key is really worn out? Check your owners manual, I think the system is called Passlock. You should be able to find it in the index. It says that you can reset it by turning the engine off, removing the key and then restarting. The light may remain on, but will reset itself and turn off after 10 min. The dealer may need to reprogram something. This might not be your problem, but hopefully it may steer you in the right direction. Good luck!
  • ksbastksbast Posts: 3
    1. be prepared to spend a lot of money
    2. the computer is sitting on a heat source with a heat sheild that reaaly dose not do the job
    3. Have a mechanic that is good with electrical and have him go over all of the electrical grounding
    4. you may have to replace the computer that is not cheap
    5. be prepared you may never solve the problem
    6. feul system may have to be replaced but this is coverd by GM
    7. ABS computer may have to be replace , this is covered by GM
    8. if your truck has more than 100,000 KM have a mechanic check the timing
    chain, the plastic guides inside the timing cover wear out at around the
    100,000 km mark part to replace only costs $70.00 but labour will kill you
    if you do not catch the bad guides in time it will cost you a cylinder head
    9. last but not least THIS IS THE WORST TRUCK THAT GM EBER BUILT

    have fun
  • i have a 2002 chevrolet s-10 2.2vortek automatic and it will not start. it was runnin but just died help anyone> it was running made a thumping sound then died then would not restart
  • I've been battling with an '89 S10 for four years -- sometimes it would start for long periods, then it would not start for long periods (no gas pump cycling up, and no injectors tho' a jumper would run the pump). I've been watching this blog all along and changing all sorts of things. Finally a mechanic friend of mine dropped in one day while the hood was up (again) cuz it hadn't been starting for several months ... he ran a jumper line from the positive battery lead to the small exposed junction box on the firewall next to the heater box -- the one the little trouble light under the hood connects to.
    Problem solved! For weeks now. Apparently it's a wire that comes up from a sensor at the oil pan (or starter?) that feeds power through the dash to the computer, and it commonly corrodes. He said easy to fix, but if I wanted to leave the jumper to put in a 60 or 80 amp fuse as charging circuit was involved.
    Does this help anybody? I know it's slim on detail, but it was a miracle for me.
  • k so i have a 99 sonoma 4.3L v6 that wont start it was fine all day till i got back home and went to leave again and it wouldnt start i have full juice in the battery cause i tested it with a multi meter but when i turn the key to start all it does is click 1 time and wont kick over can anyone tell me what the prob might be kinda low on money right now so any help would be good thanks!
  • anyone?? kinda need to get this fixed so i can go to work :confuse:
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    Sounds like a starter.You may have to take it off to have it checked..Good luck.
  • i would like to do that but its kinda hard to even get to it but while messin around with it yesterday i took the cover off the fuse box under the hood and the big square grey fuse marked starter clicks is that a bad thing or a good thing? could that maybe be why it wont start ? even tryed bangin the starter a lil and that didnt help
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    You might try changing the fuse to see if that helps,but it sounds like a starter to me.
  • it dont seem like the big grey fuses even come out! do you have to pull hard or something?
  • i have a 1998 s-10 with 195000mi. im having the same problem that so many other s-10 owners are having. the engine cranks but no start. it starts when it wants to. i checked fuel pressure. had pressure of 42. so i replaced fuel pump. now i have proper pressure of 62. truck ran great until i shut it off. same problem. no start. i got the truck started and sprayed motor with water. truck stoped runing. found arking at the coil. so i replaced coil, plugs, wires, distributor, and cap. also removed egr valve and cleaned. the truck started and ran great. got the truck home turned it off. tried re-starting after 15min. same problem, no start. the spider tray and injectors were replaced within the last year. last night i noticed that the head lights would turn off when the doesnt start. and stay on when it does. i dont know if this has anything to do with my problem or not. (truck has day time runing lights) PLEASE, any help would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU, Tim T Chicago IL
  • beckebecke Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 chevy s10. The security light went on and now the truck won't turn over. There is no "chip" on the key. The service dept at the dealer said to turn it to the start position and leave it for 10 min and it might reset itself. My truck is stranded at work and there are no shops any where near to have it towed to. Any suggestions on how to get the truck going??? Help!!!!
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    You might disconnecting the battery for at least a minute.That should reset everything.Be sure to tighten it pretty good when you reconnect.Let me know if that works.Good Luck. T.M.
  • check your lock cylinder. i had replaced a numerous of parts on mine, and it turned out to be a lock cylinder. turn your key half way just till the dash lights come on. then turn your key just enough so the engine engages. hope this helps.
  • I've had an 01 xtreme w/4.3 vortec for 2 days and it left me on the side of the road on the first. Ran fine then it died doing 50mph. Did not restart until next morning. Already changed coil and ignition module. Seem to have good fuel pressure. Checked all the relays and fuses, they test ok. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • hi i got some problem here my truck was park for a wild and it didt start so i check the battery it was done so i change it still didt work it was missing gas so i put some its start it then couple days after i went to started again and now its not working is it the sensor, the plug, humidity... pump.. the motor turn but don't start i need to fix it soon before the snow need info thanks
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    Sounds like the fuel pump to me.Put a pressure gage on the fuel line and try to start it.It should read 50 to 65 lbs of pressure.If that checks ok change the fuel filter.If it still wont start,I would use a timing light to make sure it hasnt jumped out of time.Good luck.
  • tomygtomyg Posts: 13
    pressure gage should read 50 to 65 lbs.30 lbs isn'nt enough.If that checks ok i would have an obd scanner hooked up to it to pin point the problem.
  • yeah ok replaced the starter drive it 3 times everythings good. park it in the drive for about a hour or so come back out to drive it wont start AGAIN! starter is fine its cranking but i dont notice the fuel pump sound that i always did now why does that have to go on top of the starter is it maybe something else and not the pump please fill me in!!
  • Watching this forum is almost as frustrating as trying to fix my S10 was. See message #133 those of you who are changing everything and still having your mystery problems. Most sound like a lot of what I was experiencing. It seems to me that rigging one simple jumper wire to check is cheap and easy, even if you have to look somewhere else for your year's feed to the computer. But nobody seems to have written about trying it -- worked for me is all I can say. My truck is still going strong ... all mysteries have disappeared. Maybe nobody writes about successes, maybe this hasn't worked for anyone else. Good luck.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    All you needed to do was remove the wire off the starter and clean and reinstall.
  • I have a 1993 2.8L V6 S-10. This is a 2wd truck with 172000 on it and no problems till now. The problem I have is when I first crank it in the morning it idles like it has a huge cam in it. After the truck warms up it idles high for about the first 30 min of the trip then returns to regular idle with no other problems. I have read the check engine light code and it says "EGR Failure". The EGR has been removed cleaned and the bellow check for correct operation. Plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button and throttle postioning sensor have been replaced with it the last 4 months.
    Any help or comments on this would be greatly appreciated.... :confuse:
  • It won't start w/out a lot of pumping and retries. It seems like something is not telling it to inject fuel for starting. It is not flooding. Once it starts, its fine for the rest of the day until starting the first time the next day. It's a 2002 s10 v6, and a honey otherwise.
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