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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

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Comments

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Is your S10 a stick or automatic. If its a stick check the the fluid to the slave cylinder. Maybe some of the leak your noticing from your transmission is a leaky slave cylinder. If its an automatic transmission check the fluid level.
  • qtbrqtbr Posts: 3
    after geting it started it runs like a champ. for haveing 170,000 miles on Im really impressed.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I don't understand why holding the pedal to the floor helps it start, especially with a new tpi sensor. I think i would try hooking up an inline pressure gauge and monitor the fuel pressure to see if there is a fluctuation when the engine warms up in contrast to when its cold. Between the hardware store and the auto parts store i got the fixens to make up my own test gauge kit. I hope your fuel pump is ok. They're a real hoot to change out.
  • jmc75jmc75 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10 4.3L with 220000 miles won't start it's getting fuel and has spark I think it is timming how do i check?
  • qtbrqtbr Posts: 3
    I'll give it a shot ASAP. Im tryin to keep it out of the shop and haveing them scope it. Its been mind boggleing for me. Almost like its flooding out. Anyways THANKS! I'll keep u updated
  • jnpjnp Posts: 1
    1997 s-10 truck will periodically not start, almost randomly. It will always crank however. I have noticed that when you turn the key and the dummy lights on the dash go on it starts right up. No lights, cranking but no start. Any ideas what this might be?
  • my 94 s-15 isnt starting because of the neg temp what should i do
  • my 94 sonoma isnt starting because of the neg temp what should i do
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    how cold is it? it's been fairly cold here in missouri, off and on. last week we were having problems with the hydraulics on the old tractor trying to plow snow off the drive. we stuck an electric dip stick in it and left it in there overnight. that was enough to get it working again.

    during the winter i run lighter grade of motor oil in my s10.

    good luck :D
  • hzinkhzink Posts: 1
    I have an automatic 2000 s-10 with 144,000 miles on it. The truck has some starting problems but overall still runs very well. For several years now the truck takes several cranks to start up and almost always at least three. The truck always starts up but takes sometimes up to 6 cranks, but once in a great while it will start up with 1 turn of the key. I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, EGR valve, and fuel filter. The fuel pump is also still working fine. The truck has also lost power and feels like it sometimes misses and doesnt spark when accelerating. The gas mileage has also dropped off from an average of about 18 to barely 15. I am trying to avoid the mechanic, any suggestions or help would be great, thanks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    What size motor? Does it still have the original catylitic converter on it?
  • Hello All, I Have a 1996 2.2 Sonoma with 138K on it. The problem I am having is when i go to start the truck the gauge lights do not come on, the fuel pump does not kick in....thus it will only crank. If i either wait some time and try again, it may catch, or moving the adjustable column up and down a couple times seems to get it to work sometimes. I guess my question is is this problem some kind of column issue ( loose wire or bad ignition ) or computer? any help would be appreciated.
  • I HAVE A CHEVY S10 1999 4.3 V6 WITH STARTING ISSUES (ELECTRICAL) . IT WOULD RUN FINE THEN WHEN I WOULD LEAVE PARKED FOR MORE THAN A DAY IT WOULD CRANK BUT NOT START, I WOULD KILL THE BATTERY TRYING TO START IT . I WOULD THEN RECHARGE BATTERY AND THE DARN THING WOULD START WITH NO PROBLEM , THE PROBLEM PERSISTED I BEGAN TESTING THINGS AND REPLACING PARTS COIL,IGNITION MODULE, CAM SENSOR ,CRANK SHAFT SENSOR AND IT WORKED . 1 YEAR LATER ITS DOING IT AGAIN . I HAVE FUEL PRESSURE ,SPARK . CODE READER STATES OPEN CIRCUIT ON CAM SENSOR ,I REPLACED IT RAN GOOD FOR 2 WKS NOW IT WONT START BUT IT HAS SAME CODE FOR CAM SENSOR ,COULD DISTRIBUTOR BE CAUSE ONLY THING FACTORY LEFT ON TRUCK MOTOR WAS REPLACED 3.5 YEARS AGO (NOT MECHANICAL ISSUE )
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    I would say electrical ignition switch, not the key one. It's located lower column.
  • i had the same problem .. its a the pass alarm... sonoma's are notorious for it.. i bet your security light flashes too when it wont start.. just install a pass alarm bypass - people usually install those along with remote start
  • thanks i have noticed the security light does come on , I no there is no alarm on the vehicle so i will try this. I appreciate the help,thanks
  • Thank you for your suggestion , I tried but could not locate any problems with this portion of the wiring harness at bottom of column.
  • Multiple cylinder misfires or runs like a dog when the throttle is mashed to the floor if all else fails check the distributor gear ((. Very easy to reinstall compared to previous models. Mark with tape or marker on were the gear came out and be gentle on re-insertion.

    Spend money on good plugs cap and rotor.. Save on wires and coil.. The system is a high frequency voltage the spark passes through thiner wire easier.. wires dont make a much differance unless damaged.. Mist with water and check for a light show.. Coil doesnt always show as the backside is the fastest point to ground. on most 94-02 s-10s

    Wont start when wet... This is a *%*($( Many things can go wrong here. I start with checking the coil first by making the coil ark BLUE at least an inch or so than the coil wire to the distr - #1 on dist to ground-- Most of the time the coil weakens from a hidden crack on the backside. Remove to observe to see ground traces. Corrosion is another factor in the diss cap also the pickup coil and senor. The moisture gets traped easily in the cap and causes problems with all components underneath, Always use high quility electical components not the ones found at auto zone and such stores. The temp sensor and crank sensor also can have an impact on this also telling the engine it is to cool or to warm crank sensor can be cleaned and usualy never is the problem. Have auto zone check all that they can at once. Using an ohm meter and the manual you can check most all sensors on or off the car. Usualy no Codes it isnt a sensor . ELECT or GAS or DISASTER

    I good way to test the MAF is to unplug it and see if it runs better or same. Unplugging bypasses and tells the engine that the air is 72 and 50% humidity Never spray anything on the maf excect when cleaning. Use paper towl or shop towel and pure alcohal and water filtered compressed air.

    When a code tells you that your MAF is bad it could be the o2's. Always change all the o2's together if one goes bad it caused the others to buildup and makes them slower to respond even thow there is no code. Helps having a tech-2 or a good reader. Also studied new ones compared to ones that were old.. gas+better idle and quicker response when punched

    for the carbon and to clean the motor and to get back the gas mileage and a tseafoam through the intake oil and gas When through the intake small amounts at a high idle using 93 octane gas.

    Fuel pump failure- Leave the tank full as much as possible- 13 mpg I know its tough. Helps with cooling / easier to draw gas with internal pressure and keeps the water down.
    Napa sells a good pump as well as the one from delphi. As good or better than delphi
    Airtek and master pumps are only rated for 50 psi initialy and are increased with a capacitor and not copper to cool..Napa Ac delco and delphi pumps I personaly compared to the airtek and master pumps CHEAP !!!! Carter pumps I have never used or examined. Runs best purged at 60+ psi anything lower can cause problems.. Gas cap lowers pressure in some cases and also causes the pump to run harder/hotter

    The wires that lead from the pump I have seen them melted along with the top of the pump. Replace with a ground strap and the connector usind the strap alond side. Fuel filters are used up quickly cause the flow of gas is at more pressure theremore causing larger particals to break down and clog the filter quickly. dry gas and additives also clog the filter and are hard on the pump when not used by the bottles instructions.
  • pine1pine1 Posts: 1
    did you get truck to start
  • shawng05shawng05 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 S-10, 4.3 throttle body injection that starts and runs then dies and is no longer pumping fuel through injector, I can leave it sit for a while and it will start and run for another few minutes. I have replaced fuel pump,filter,lines,injectors and fuel regulator with no change it still is doing the same thing, its got me stumped, any ideas.
    Any info would greatly appreciated.
  • My problem resulted from trying to run synthetic oil too long, which resulted in the 'blinding' of one or more sensors. A thorough cleaning of the inside of the engine, including a couple of short oil and filter changes, solved all the problems without replacing any parts. I think I tried using commercial cleansing additives to each oil change until it seemed clean. Part B of that is, if this doesn't work, I'll wager you have computer problems. Worth it to check cleaning procedure first.
  • faith828faith828 Posts: 1
    I Just replaced the battery in my 1995 GMC Sonoma and now it wont turn over but the alarm is going off, I have no way to turn it off, any suggestions?
  • I ran into a similar problem on my truck and the answer was the starter....when they ran the bolt up on studs at the factory the stud broke off and would make contact intermittently.....try turning the ignition switch off and on rapidly and see if it starts...if it does this might be the problem
  • Having problems with my truck.Wife drove it to store and it just died, battery light came on and she attempted to get a jump.Truck cranks over fine, all fuses are good and you can hear the fuel pump whirring.truck only has 86 miles on it, new rebuilt starter and has always ran like a top
  • dave298dave298 Posts: 1
    My 91 2.8 sometimes will not start when hot. after cranking and pumpin g the gas it will eventually start and barely run surging and sputtering, If I can get it in gear and keep the rpms up bucking and snorting it will finally begin to run ok. I am ready to blow this thing up..new fuel pump,ecm,tps, fuel pump regulator.
  • Ok guys another wierd problem im having. I have gone through 2 starters and am on my third one. My truck is having start up problems also. I have replaced the fuel filter, the air filter, the spark plugs, the starter, the flywheel, the clutch andmade sure my battery cables were clean and secure but still when i try to start up my truck it cranks then my starter grinds. Sometimes it takes ten minutes for it to start but thats after my truck has been running. Usually when i first start it it doesnt give me any problems. I have had the voltage on my battery checked and its ok as far as voltage is concerned. Any help would be great. Also im having cylinder misfires but in the last few weeks it hasnt lost any power althought it seems to not have as much power as it used to. The check engine light is on also. and sometimes when i start it up the abs light and the brake lights stay on. Any suggestions?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Joe - what year, size engine, and how many miles on it? John :shades:
  • aburgeaburge Posts: 3
    edited July 2010
    has 2.2. was running fine. stopped for red light and died. towed home. would crank with pedal on the floor and die if let off pedal. but runs very rough. changed fuel pump and filter. no pressure at valve on fuel line under hood. will not crank at all now. will backfire with pedal to floor now. moneys tight and need advice. can't afford to tow to get codes read. any ideas??? please and thank you PS: supposed to be new factory motor with about 41000 miles on it now.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    No pressure, pump is not running, you have a electrical problem. Go in that direction, you should hear pump run for 2 seconds with key on run.
  • aburgeaburge Posts: 3
    truck died at red light.2.2L with approximately 42ooo miles. replaced fuel pump, filter, crank sensor, module and coil packs. still will not crank. any ideas. ready to put match to it. lol
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