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Jeep Wrangler



  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Nauset, you will get quoted between $300-$400 in labor from most shops. Mechanically, it's not an especially difficult task, just labor-intensive because you need to remove the serpentine, pull the power steering pump out of the way, and unbolt the air intake and old manifold (they use the same bolts as I am sure you've noticed). Put the new manifold on and then reverse the steps. I am not as mechanically adept as Mac, my expertise is pretty much limited to basic maintainence, but I could have done it with help I am sure though it would have taken awhile. There's a great step-by-step somewhere online with pics but I can't find it right now. Instead, I put up an ad on Craigslist's "services" section. Got multiple replies and found a guy who worked out of his garage near here and had done it on his wife's Grand Cherokee already. He did an outstanding job for $160 which was well worth the money.

    The danger of someone doing it in their garage is if one of the studs breaks in the engine block. Didn't happen to me, but it is possible.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    I'm not surprised that mechanics don't want to quote you a fixed cost - I understand the bolts can be a really difficult, so they don't always know how long it will take them (depends on how many break). When I got it replaced on my '98 Sport, I was quoted around $1000 by several people, and ended up getting a reputable (suggested by several garages that didn't do manifolds) garage to do it for $800, parts included (he bought the Mopar replacement one).
  • nausetnauset Posts: 2
    Thanks guys. I found one mechanic so far that quoted me $300 for the labor (I supply the part), which sounds very reasonable. His shop specializes in off-road cars/trucks, so I think he should be good. I found that link online for the step-by-step, but I don't have the tools or the time unfortunately. Here it is though for anyone looking:
    Thanks again.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'd estimate around four hours labor, so $300 doesn't sound unreasonable. As mentioned earlier it's not a technically difficult job, so if the shop is competent you shouldn't have any problems.

    I know it must seem like I'm here 24/7, but I do get a little time off occasionally for good behavior! :shades:
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    "I have also read how they're not great on the snow."

    I hope this is not true...I purchased a set of five for Elliemae because I am building a home in the mountains. It will suck if I put these tires on just to learn they cannot handle the snow. :(
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It will suck if I put these tires on just to learn they cannot handle the snow.

    I'm sure you'll report back on your experience, but I doubt that you'll be unhappy. I haven't personally used MT/Rs on snow but I've heard great reports of them on other vehicles.

    Don't forget that snow, like sand, comes in many different types. Sometimes you'll need low tire pressure to try to spread the load and float on top, other times you'll need to punch through for better grip.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Yes, that's the link. If you are buying the manifold from 1aautomotive I can vouch that mine has held up just fine for the past 6 months. Way quieter too, plus noticable increases in HP and MPG. One nice thing for whoever does this is the ton of room in the Wrangler engine bay. Friend of mine was over here this weekend with his new Mini S. Nice little car but I cannot imagine ever working on it. It's a miracle they could fit a supercharger under that hood.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Don't forget about the Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions discussion (someone needs some tips in there if you get my drift ;) )

    Steve, Host
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I didn't even know that forum existed! :confuse:

    I've made a couple of posts, but if it's used correctly it will probably halve the number of posts here (or is that the idea?).
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Well, there are a lot of posts in here but the search tool works pretty good. I think some members just wanted a more focused discussion and that's fine too. One more discussion to track shouldn't be too much of a hardship for a 24/7 guy like you Mac! :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • All,
    I've got a Wrangler with a rattle. This, in itself, is not unexpected, except I'm now getting to my wit's end with it (which is not far, granted).

    It sounds like something against the firewall. I have removed the center of the dash pretty much (to install a PIE adapter for the ipod, which sounds FANTASTIC by the way) and I didn't get any closer to it. It sounded like I'd have to dig quite a bit farther. The rattle itself sounds like a metallic buzz. Sort of like a coin on a table when a train goes by, if you can imagine that. It happens only in gear (drive or reverse) and only at the very start of the throttle range. Touch the throttle from each stop-sign and BUZZZZZZZZ. I don't know if the low rpm caused by being in gear causes it, or if it's even the drivetrain against the firewall. It's definitely up high as it almost sounds like it comes from the bottom of the windshield. I did a search and found a Grand Cherokee posting about a buzz from an air-conditioner door inside the climate control that sounded sort of similar. Oh, and it's much worse in the cold air after it's sat all night.

    I'll feel like a fool going to the dealer, but it's becoming Chinese water torture. Anyone else ever had this?

    Oh, it's an 04 with just under 20k miles. Everything else works perfectly.
  • Two days without a post?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    We were down all day yesterday ... and it started out a bit shaky today too. :cry:

    Steve, Host
  • Yeah, I've noticed the posting has gone down dramatically lately; I hope everyone is out enjoying their Jeeps!

    It's been a while since we've heard from some of the 'regulars', particulary Tom and his TB adventures...hope everything is still all wonderful in Jeep land for everybody.

    Let's get some posting!

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Okay, I'm debating the locker issue now.

    I can get one autolocker (like Aussie or Lockright) and 1 selectable locker. Which one would I want to put on which axle? I thought a selectable in the rear is the better way to go as the autolockers in front wouldn't engage unless in 4wd.

    But in talking with a selectable locker maker as well as Randy's Ring and Pinion, they both say the auto should be in the back and the selectable in front.

    Most of my driving is on the highway, but once my rig is completed with regears/tires/etc, I see more offroading in store.

    Any advice?

  • How's everyone been? Thought I'd share a brief recap of my vacation trip to Austin, Texas from here in Tuscaloosa, AL.

    Drove nonstop both ways (approx 750 miles each way). I must say, although I had no problem with the speeds or trucks (6 cylinder), my rear end was both hurtin' and numb following each leg. I had the foresight to take a small pillow to use for lumbar support, and it helped immensely. A definite take-along for a long trip.

    Gas mileage was horrible. After checking the first tankfull, around 18mpg, I quit calculating. I did have a pretty strong headwind heading west, but very rarely went over 70-75 mph.

    Would I do it again? Sure...but likely at my age, would take more rest stops. I think on the way home here I only stopped 3 times, and only to refuel and get a cup of coffee. Not wise...was road drunk for the last quarter of the trip.

    The CB was a definite asset, too. Oh....this was one of the first times I truly appreciated the 7-speaker system with the soundbar. At constant highway speeds, I cranked the music LOUD and was impressed with the sound. Even discovered some butt-relieving vibration from the console woofer. ;)

    I have about seven pages of posts to catch up on, but wanted to relate the adventures of a long trip in the Wranger. Definitely not a comfort ride, but had alot of fun!


  • Finally, I can post again! Don't know if it was just me, but I wasn't able to post or even search for like 2 days because of some technical difficulties.

    Anyhow, I just changed the oil and filter in my jeep again (mobil 1 5w30 and k&n oil filter--all by myself again!), and everything is still running great. I have a couple things, though, that perhaps someone (Mac?) could shed some light on:

    To start, when I first changed my oil by myself, I noticed that my oil pressure guage didn't move until the engine was turned over; before this, the guage would move to 3(the middle) when switched to 'on'. The pressure guage works fine (I think) once the engine is on, and I never gave it much thought or concern. I guess I'm just hoping everything is still ok...?

    Second, in respect to oil pressure; what is 'normal' readings? At idle, as I just said, the pressure reads 3, or right in the middle of the guage (5.4 is the max., I believe). When I accelerate, the pressure increases to 3/4 of the guage, probably about to 4 or so. I figure this is obviously normal operating range...or is it? Like I've said before, before my jeep I've never really worked on cars, so I just want to make sure everything is fine with my oil changes, as they so-far seem.

    Finally, regarding engine operating temperature; when the jeep is fully warmed up, it is at 100, the max. before the 'red' or dangerous zone. Never has it exceeded this. I figure this is normal as well? I have no cooling mods to speak of, and I don't think that I am borderline on overheating, I just want to make sure that all of these numbers (oil pressure and engine temp.)are in the normal/safe operating ranges.

    I have a 97 TJ se, if that's important. As always, thanks, and I look forward to your responses.

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    It wasn't just you - database and hardware issues both slammed the forum the last couple of days. It's so nice to be able to post again!

    Steve, Host
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The time lag before getting an oil pressure reading after changing the oil and filter is due to the need for the filter and oil galleries to be filled before pressure can build. You can cut this down by pre-filling the filter before fitting it.

    Assuming your gauges are metric (is it a Canadian TJ?), everything appears normal.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Gas mileage was horrible. After checking the first tankfull, around 18mpg, I quit calculating.

    I guess it's all a matter of perception! :shades:
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