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Jeep Wrangler



  • I've always wanted a jeep as a second vehicle and recently reached a verbal agreement on a '98 Wrangler Sport, I6, manual transmission. The agreed price is $3800 usd (my allowance was $6k), however this particular jeep already has over 225,000 miles on it. I'm buying from the original owner (friend of a friend), mostly highway miles, and this guy kept meticulous maintenance records (notes and receipts all in a book which I will inherit). I had a mechanically inclined relative take a look at it and he said everything looks and sounds good except for an antifreeze leak which probably means the water pump needs to be replaced (STS receipt shows that some maintenance was done on the radiator [or something] and some hoses were replaced about 17k miles ago). I'm happy with everything about the jeep except for the mileage...

    I don't know much of anything about cars...this deal is not final - am I crazy to go through with it? Opinions would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The water pump, radiator, thermostat, and hoses are all items you could easily replace yourself.

    I'm not mechanically inclined, but I've swapped that stuff (cept the pump) myself without too much problem.

    225k sounds a bit high IMO, but the 4.0 is a good solid engine good for a lot of use. If everything has been maintained well, and you have proof that was actually done, then it probably wouldn't be a problem. Would you be using this as a daily driver or for offroading?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I think the mileage would be more of a factor if its service history was unknown. Any eight year old vehicle will require attention from time to time, regardless of the mileage. If you're going to buy an older model TJ, then in my opinion a high mileage example with a good service history is a better bet than a lower mileage model of unknown provenance.
  • Thanks Paul and mac24 for the of now I'm still planning to go through with the deal... I plan to put about 10,000 miles/year on the jeep - no off roading, something to get me to work when it snows and to the beach on summer weekends (I'm a little late on the latter).

    Mac - you make a good point about the high miles/known history vs. low miles/no history...

    I would love to be able to replace the water pump and such on my own, but I certainly don't trust myself. The boyfriend doesn't like to admit when he doesn't know something so I'm a little hesitant to have him work on my motor-powered toys...I do have that mechanically inclined cousin, but he's got a lot on his plate right now so I don't want to burden him with my repairs...going to call STS tonight to get an estimate on a water pump replacement. Then I might invest in "Auto Repair for Dummies"...!

    Thanks again!
  • BONUS! I just got notified that the guy I'm buying the jeep from noticed some antifreeze on his driveway so he took it to STS. Turned out to be a loose hose. Problem should be resolved.

    It makes me feel quite a bit better that, even knowing the car was pretty much sold, he cared enough to have the problem looked into.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    It's great to hear from you! It has been AGES!

    I'm doing OK, but still missing my Ross Allen Puppy awfully bad. I guess you had heard that I lost him? That was a little over a year ago.

    Yes, it was quite a blow to lose Old Giller. He and I were very good friends. We just seemed to have been meant to be buddies, because we immediately hit it off and had become good friends over the Internet and through phone conversations before even meeting one another in person.

    Stick around, Kiddo.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    A question on driver line issue associated with a 4-inch lift together with lowering transfer case. Assuming the lowered transfer case does not produce any noticible vibe in the drive shaft. Will this setup still develope a drive shaft related problem over time? i.e. Can this setup be a permanent solution?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I have never heard of a problem because of running a with a lowered transfer case, assuming the driveline angle was actually corrected by the transfer case drop.

    The transfer case drop takes away some of the clearance gained by the lift, and, in my opinion, they don't look very good either.

    The alternative is a slip yoke eliminator kit and a new driveshaft. The new driveshaft will have splines and will be able to get longer and shorter, which will mean the slip yoke is no longer necessary.

    The driveline length from the output of the transfer case to the rear differential's pinion yoke has to be able to get longer or shorter as the rear axle goes up and down when the vehicle's suspension is flexed. The same is true of the front driveline, of course.

    This lengthening and shortening is accomodated by the slip yoke at the back of the transfer case. The slip yoke makes the effective length of the transfer case greater, reducing the distance between the transfer case and the pinion yoke.

    The shorter the horizontal distance between these fixed points, the more the angle is changed when the transfer case is raised because of a suspension lift. So, a slip yoke eliminator makes for a greater length between the fixed points and brings the angle back closer to the original angle.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 4rider4rider Posts: 96
    Thank to Tom for such detailed info. No question that SYE and CV drive shaft is the true solution. The only cole reality is it cost fair amont of $$$. Wodering why Jeep does not build it with SYN and CV from the factory to begin with?

    Another related quetion is that since the lift afftects both front and rear drive shafts, does this mean the front drive shaft needs the similar SYE modification also??
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Wodering why Jeep does not build it with SYN and CV from the factory to begin with?

    Hmmm........what could the answer be? :shades:

    It should also be noted that the replacement propeller shaft has two adjacent 'u' joints (just like on the front shaft) which comprise a cardan joint, not a CV (constant velocity) joint.

    Another related quetion is that since the lift afftects both front and rear drive shafts, does this mean the front drive shaft needs the similar SYE modification also??

    No, the front prop shaft is much long than the rear, so the angular change is much less than on the rear when the suspension is lifted. It's the fact that the rear shaft is so short that causes the problems when doing a lift.
  • So far, thru last week, there have been 4314 07' Wranglers built. 734 last week, 1678 this month. I don't know what the "normal" output is expected to be.
  • hypehype Posts: 16
    Help-I want to drain & flush the coolant myself and I cannot locate the engine block drain plug to drain the coolant from the engine block? Is the block drain plug obstructed from top side view of engine? Can someone provide me with a clear path to it-thanks!!!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's a threaded plug with a square recessed socket. You have to access it from below as the exhaust manifold shields it from above. You don't have to jack the vehicle up, just roll under the rear of the drivers side front wheel and look up. Make sure the Jeep is cold before you put your hands up there! ;)
  • hypehype Posts: 16
    thanks so much-that gives me something to go on!
    I should be able to locate it now.
    From what you described-the block drain plug sounds like it is towards the rear of the block-that is-away from the grille/front of the Jeep?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Correct, it's at the transmission end of the block and low down, closer to the oil pan than the head.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Hi, everyone. As you've probably noticed, we have been trying to refine the discussions into more narrowly focussed topics. Our objective is twofold. We want to make it easier for people seeking specific information about their vehicles to find it easily and without having to wade through hundreds or thousands of postings.

    To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.

    You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.

    To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!

    Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues.

    So which forum will I need to hear from mtngal about the Jeep trails that are closed because of the current fires? Or from tsjay about the offroading at Turkey Bay? Or from erickpl about the many repairs he's making after his Wrangler tripped over? Where would I post to let anyone who's interested know about the great deal and service I got when I purchased a recovery strap last week?

    I can understand the logic in having two Wrangler forums, one for problems and another for general discussion, but to lose the general discussion and to split the 'problem' forum into 101 separate narrowly focused threads seems to me, to put it politely, counter productive.

    One of the things we have here is a sense of community, which will disappear if this general 'Jeep Wrangler' forum is closed.

    I will be sorry to lose track of you all.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,958
    Oh, I don't think it'll get quite that specialized -- the feeling is that more new (and those lurking) Jeepers will want to post. Discussions this big (20,000 + posts!) tend to discourage participation and make it harder to find info.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • believebelieve Posts: 74
    Hi everyone!!
    It's been a while I know...I was getting ready to do the
    same with my jeep (change the antifreeze)...I didn't know
    you could do the block on this....I was thinking I would
    have to keep flushing it until it was there
    anything that I need to do as far as just retightening
    the bolt when done or do I have to use a compound?
    Anyway....thanks for that info!!!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's hard to flush properly without removing the plug as it's at the lowest point of the block's water gallery. You do need to use a sealant, either a compound or ptfe tape (I prefer tape). As well as sealing the plug, it'll make it easier to remove next time.
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