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Jeep Wrangler

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  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'm trying to locate a fog light mounting bracket for the OEM TJ fog lights. It is the bracket type that also helps align the fogs up or down.

    I've contacted the dealer - I'd have to buy a whole setup. Uh, no. Does anybody have a broken foglamp that they'd otherwise be pitching or have some sources I could try?

    -Paul
  • co2 is never in a liquid state.It sublimates, going directly from a solid to a gas, never passing through a liquid state.Think of it as ice cubes in your freezer.Ever notice them getting smaller and smaller without thawing out (melting)That too, is a form of sublimation. The only reason I know this is because I operated liquid o2n2 plants in the Navy for 5 years
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Previous answer is partially correct. CO2 does not exist as a liquid at atmosphereic pressure (that is why dry ice doesn't melt - it goes directly from asolid to a gas). But at high enough pressure (75+ psig) CO2 can be compressed into the liquid state. So in pressurized tanks, the CO2 actually is a liquid, but when it discharges into the air, it instantly changes into a mix of CO2 gas and CO2 "snow".
  • hey everyone! I have a few questions, but they are all related to the lift. I have read the previous posts on lifts and they have answered many of my questions, but I have a few more and maybe even a few questions to be clarified.

    I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X model. It has been a GREAT vehicle for both travel and daily driving, but it needs some "beefyness" if you get what I mean. Its still completely factory, which I believe is understandable because I've only had the Jeep since last May.

    I want to get a 4" Series II Rough Country lift. My first question is if I can get away with keeping my stock wheels and putting 33" x 10.5" tires? I know they will fit and everything, but since they are not very wide, I was wondering if I could get some advice on whether they are safe or not (roll over risk...etc.).

    Ok, second question, I will not be offroading anytime soon because of how new my car is. I want to put some age on my vehicle before I run it through the woods. So in other words I will be a "poser" for a lil while. Does this mean I will need to get a replacement stablizer, slip yoke eliminator, and the CV custom driveshaft? Or since I will be staying onroad will I be alright without? I've also heard a lot about regearing. What is the benefits of that other than power, and if I don't regear will that hurt my vehicle?

    Any help will be very much appreciated! The site for the lift and those other parts are here link title
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A lift and larger diameter tires will raise the center of gravity but, unless you try to corner it like a sports car, the most noticable effect will be in extreme cambered situations offroad.

    With regard to s/stabilizers, SYEs, and custom driveshafts, the situation is reversed. A lack of the above will be most noticable on-road, in terms of serious vibration. Off-road, if you keep the speed down, you won't notice the lack of them at all, (though you may need to put a spacer on the rear end of the rear prop shaft).

    Not re-gearing might negatively affect fuel consumption and acceleration, but it won't damage your vehicle.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Building on what Mac said:

    1. 33x10.5's should fit on stock wheels. I have 33x12.5's on my Canyons which are 8" wide.
    2. Your rollover risk will go up a bit since you are raising your COG. But if you drive prudently, the increased risk will be minimal.
    3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts. You may want to consider Rubicon Express or OME as better options.
    4. With a 4" lift, you will likely need either a transfer case drop (usually comes with lift kits) or do the SYE. The drop is a cheaper solution since you don't need the SYE, new rear driveshaft and adjustable control arms in back.
    5. Replacement stabilizers will be unnecessary if you balance and align tires properly after lift. They tend to MASK issues instead of prevent them.
    6. Going from stock to 33's, you will see a performance hit and a noticeable change in what your speedo reads vs true speed. Regearing is the best way to regain stock 'power' to the now-oversized tires. A new speedo gear would probably be good too (fairly cheap from the dealer) and is based on your new differential gear settings and tire size. It won't hurt anything other than your pocketbook for more gas if you don't regear.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts.......

    Me too, but I thought I'd let someone else express it first! ;)

    Apparently the name (Rough Country) is an accurate descriptor of the product's performance. (What's the correct term for that?)
  • Thanks to all for their input. I appreciate it a lot. I have more things to think about and I'm sure you'll see me again on here as I am an avid reader for this forum!
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    could someone tell me the stock differential ratios for a 6cyl YJ ('92)?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Depends on transmission type. Also depends on which trim level and options it had from the factory.

    -Paul
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Back in 2002 I got a build sheet from Daimler Chrysler for my 95 Wrangler. I no longer have the instructions, but maybe somebody out there does.
  • Just to piggy back on the lift question... Can anyone comment on the Rusty lift kits... I am looking at his 3-1/4" kit. Rusty's Link
    Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    For the price, I've heard you get a decent lift. I have several friends looking at this lift as a matter of fact. I'd still opt for the OME or RE if price wasn't a concern. But that is just me. If you are on a budget and needing/wanting a suspension upgrade, then Rusty's is probably the top on my list.

    Price independent:
    1. OME
    2. RE
    3. Rusty's

    Price dependent:
    1. Rusty's
    2. RE
    3. OME

    Hope that helps.

    -Paul
  • Thanks Paul... I haven't seen the RE or OME for the JK's yet.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    They'll have em. ;)

    I'm not sure how they'd be different, except maybe with different springs/spring rate. Shouldn't be too much different though.

    -Paul
  • I just found the RE... $1,600 for the 3"... As far as differences... all I know is that the JK has longer Arms then the others. Not sure on the other specs.
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    Thanks for the input. I have another one. Would there be any reason that the 4x4 (possibly both ranges) would not be working when the indicator shows that 4x4 is engaged? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Failure of one range only to engage would indicate a transfer case or linkage problem. Failure of both ranges to engage is likely to be a vacuum problem, or at least a problem related to the vacuum operated actuator on the front axle.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Go to the 'Contact us' link on Jeep.com and send them your VIN together with your request.

    Alternatively, your local dealer should be able to print it out given the VIN.

    However, as there's no guarantee that a fifteen year old Jeep will still have the same equipment it originally came with, a check of the axle itself might be best.

    If the information tag is no longer attached to one of the diff cover bolts you will need to get physical with it. Just count how many revolutions a wheel needs to turn to complete one revolution of the propshaft. Make a chalk mark on the propshaft where you can see it from the side, and a chalk mark on a tire at the 12 o'clock position. Carefully roll the Jeep forward while keeping note of the marks. Easy!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Price independent:
    1. OME
    2. RE
    3. Rusty's

    Price dependent:
    1. Rusty's
    2. RE
    3. OME


    That would be my order of priority as well.
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